George Heath's Journal of his trip to France in 1810
Extracts of the following journal were published in Records of the Heath Family in 1913. The following is a full transcription of George Heath's actual journal.
G.Heath Temple London
Papa’s Journal in France in 1810
[line in pencil,
difficult to read.
Mitre
fr Lires
3.0.11.296
3.3.3/10
English
Obelisk 180 22.Bare
Mittrode de Laforiel
Vide Medicine operation de Sabatien - / Saivey/
Plymouth 10th August 1810
On the West, the mouth of the River Tamar[?],
under the name of the Haineage and on the Mouth of the River Plim under
the name of the Calwater bound a Promontory around the Point of which are
situated Plymouth Mill Pairon Stonyhouse and Plymouth Docks.
The Eastern
Harbour or Catwater at the Entrance of which is Plymouth is appropriated to
Merchant ships and the [Hawisaze?] [mades?] many miles above the Dock is
destined to Ship of War.
Plymouth itself is a dirty irregular town
possessing not one feature to distinguish it from other sea Port Towns but the
Docks at two miles distance is of itself [indes—land?] of the Dock Yard almost
equal in extent and far surpassing in regularity and beauty the old Town.
The
Dock Yard is extensive and contains Docks for building and dry Docks for
repairing Ships of the largest size. A Rope path 1200 feet long the Smiths shop
where the Anchors are made by hammering [jointed?] iron bars together until the
anchor is formed are among the most curious parts of this immense yard. May
hours are necessary to heat the unformed Anchor before it is taken out of the
furnace.
The Mast Shop is also very worthy of notice in [which?] masts for
ships of all [Retn?] are always ready. About 3,000 men are in the whole
employed.
Opposite the Dock on the other side of the [Hanseage?] is Mt
Edgecombe (in Cornwall) a most beautiful promontory finely wooded in which the
Noble Seat of the Earl is situated. It is certainly peculiar to Plymouth that
while on one side of its chief Harbour all the business of War is in its highest
[Vigosn?] the other side should be one of the most picturesque in England.
Morlaix –
Tuesday 14th August 1810
Built in a [Ravine, Ronsive?] dry
at low water, about 20 vessels, mostly Prussian and American, embankment and
quays. Town very old. Houses resemble those in old Town in England such as
Chester Etc. Abundance of trout, one of 4lb sells generally for about 30 sols.
Butter 8 or 10 sols.
Wednesday 15th August 1810
Waggons with 2 large wheels 7 or 8 ft diameter,
Wagggon about 15 feet long and the loading balanced 5 or 6 horses the usual
team. Storehouses, sheepskins used as an ornament on their collars.
Thursday 16th August 1810
Breakfasted with Mackenzie, walked a short
distance into the Country. Harvest getting good crops of Barley. Very fine
fields of Hemp.
Attended at the Commissary and afterwards on the Mayor for my
Passport. If the French Customs no these occasions are vexatious it will be
acknowledged that the Conduct of those employed [renders?] it as little so as
possible from the time of my reaching the Port to this moment all the
Authorities have behaved not only to be but to all the Passengers in the most
attentive manner. One would think by their behaviour that you were doing them a
great favour by applying to them, yet they have the power and I fear almost with
impunity to [use, put?] people to a great [Instead?].
Dined with Mr M. and
some French [Gend?] Nothing is so difficult as to get from this place. The
Diligence goes about 60 miles a day. But there is no certainty of place as it
may be filled at [Rennes, Rouen?] There is no other mode but travelling Post and
in order to do this you must buy a carriage or lease one for they only find
Horses.
Friday 17th August 1810
Bought Voiture of Mr M for 10 gr, reached Belille
[Belle-Isle-en-Terre?] 4 posts [mifa?]. Miserable village inn, silver spoons and
forks, 4 beds in one room. Bretton French Catalans always refractory even before
Revolution, distinct from the rest of France.
Saturday 18th August 1810
First stage to [Chatelaudren?] [anciently?]
fortified, moats &c, very [ancient, austere?] [environs?] Fountain in the
Market Place. Next stage [untilred?] road. Flax, Hemp ble’noir, Furze, Brooms.
St Brieuc, all at a distance rather pretty. Imperial Ecole Marine. Cathedral
St.[Brieuc?] Corn threshing in fields. Walked on past St.Brieuc, all asleep. A
voiture passed me after waiting about 2 hours I enquired and found that it has
passed, went back and just by St Brieux met a boy with a poney hired it for 2
livres. He ran on to the village 2 leagues off and got me and poney and then
flogged and blackguarded it on to Lamballe in 2 hours. 5 leagues, he ran the
whole way. [went?] a hand [cauth?] as well as a [Bean?] 13 [handstuff?] would
permit. A bit o rope for a bridle. The boy was aged 16 and it was not his time
to be a soldier for 2 years. He had been twice to St.Brieuc that morning, 2
leagues each time and did as much every day. Here are material for soldiers.
Country gets more fertile towards Lamballe, well cultivated. Harvest getting
in everywhere. Women threshing and reaping. Lamballe the 1st [becu?] place 8
leagues from St.Malo, the sea always visible on the left until this
place.
Not one cross road from Morlaix to Lamballe.
Near Lamballe the
first cross road to St.Malvos
Very small sheep chiefly black.
Sleep at
Bron
Sunday 19th August 1810
At a small village call Bedes we found that the
part of the Axle which goes into the Wheel was broke and it was amazing how we
escaped to Sunday morning but we got a blacksmith who cobbled it. All the
village surrounded in but on the ringing of a bell they all ran to join the
Procession to Mass. First a man ringing two Bells, then one carrying a silver
cross and little [draping?] then the children with candles, priest, then all the
men and last the women.
Galville[?] did not extend to Bretagne as the states
then paid their quota of taxes to the King laying them on as they [choose,
drove?] The land now is not so productive as then, for they then sewed salt as
manure but now tax on salt generally makes it too dear.
Not very
loyal.
Reached Rennes about 2 o’clock for the first time. I [mean, never?] in
the inhabitable world since I began travelling. The city the capital of Brittany
is large and very well built. The streets at right angles, the homes large and
proffering great appearances of groups of public buildings. The is a height all
them and a proportion in windows and which gives the French towns of a modern
date a great [superior?] over the cities of a similar [Bath?] in England, where
our houses are all small. I knew no town, Bath excepted, that has so good an
appearance ever as Rennes, and the Hotel de Ville is a large regular building.
Centre and two wings and in centre a painting of the Emperor and a Roman statue
[‘Lycand' crossed out] Costume antique but not Proportions, the [lyr, leg?] too
large and long. Imonphson Max. Potentiss, Napolio, Imp. Gall. Rex.
Ital.
Germanic Conf. Protect.
Their faces are open and - - of Liberty - -
stands, among some rows and small trees planted also here for the first time
since entering France I found gambling going on the Sunday afternoon, a game by
pushing a ball among little nails but I did not understand it.
We went to the
Cathedral, very bad, desolate within, without ornament, Altar with four red
common marble pillars not nearly so splendid as those of our Church which I went
into in the centre of the Town. Near the Cathedral is a House now belonging to
the Bishop, which was a sort of museum. It is now in great want of repair.
Behind the Cathedral is a public garden or Walk called Mount Tabor, avenue of
trees and forming altogether a very promenade for this city. Contiguous to it
though, I don't suppose open every day, is the Botanic Garden of very
considerable extent, kept in excellent order, the principal walk is ornamented
with large trees. From the appearance of the Green Hot Houses I also think the
Exotic to be the most [deertive?] in this collection. From a terrace at the end
there is a charming view of the surrounding country.
Palace of the Parliament
deserted, a large [monstrous?] building. B. pulled off his hat out of respect to
one of the Presidents who resisted the illegal decree of the King.
Hotel de
France very good. The new Cathedral was commenced before the Revolution. The
front is finished but there it stops. Two towers of considerable height at a
distance resemble the usual Gothic Cathedrals but on approaching, the Order is
Roman, Ionic the lower and Corinthian above.
The inhabitants are soliciting
to have it finished. Several of the churches seeming abandoned.
Monday 20th August 1810
- - repaired, reached Vitrie, a very old
town. Wheel again broke and kept at Vitrie the whole day. Market. Cows, small.
To 54 to 60 f. and a rather large the still smaller [steers, them?] are smallest
75 F very good - - smoking pipe, very fine 5 or 6 f. 10lbs of hay 450 lbs not
[fat?] 100 to 120 F. Oxens trained [brained?] there about 100 lbs, 4 or 5 years
350 to 400 F the pair.
A little black kind of nut of a spiked irregular
triangular form, the fruit of an aquatic plant which grows in the ponds in
[bought?] and eaten. To me it tasted like the chestnut, not more than anything
else. Macre. The vulgar name I could hear no more about.
Small horses, 13 to
14 hands at about 3 [guesses?] 3 years old.
Went to the Castle which belongs
to the Duc de la [Trienasielles?] the celebrated Duc de la [Parthenon?] was the
last possessor who inhabited it, and he was only once here, during the
Revolution. It was partly occupied by Prisoners and some [Apar?] soldiers etc.
At present quite in ruins, but some of the rooms interesting, a little Closet
with painted panels and latin mottos. At present [Lumati?] confined in one
tower, only two at [present?]. Old fortified town, moat and some of the walls
and bastions still remaining. Extreme old town, not one modern house. No street
straight, no more that 8 or 9 ft &c. House touch at top. Walks under houses,
like Chester. Great market for thread , and [cotton?] goods, very bad and
very dear.
Church, gothic, rather good. 3 aisles. Remains of good painted
windows. Stone pulpit outside. Inhabitants did not know for what, it formed part
of a [tten?] buttresses.
About 5 we good our voiture repaired by having an
entire new axle behind, and proceeded 2 stages to Laval.
Near Vitre there is
a very fine sheet of water, the Banks of which are beautifully wooded. It
formerly belonged to the Prince of [Talmont?] and now to the Government who have
granted to the Hospital of Rennes.
Nothing can be more beautiful than this
part of the country, from the great quantity of wood which it abounds. It gives
a richness to the prospects which we would want in England.
Laval is a very
considerable town and celebrated for its manufacture of linen. It is like all
the rest very old, afforded in very indifferent accommodation. It is the capital
of the Department de la Maysonne[?]
Tuesday 21st August 1810
Set off at 6. Breakfasted Ribay [Erbree?], good
roads, the country and weather charming, abundance of wood.
From Robay to
Pres-en-Paris the country descends and affords a most extensive and rich
prospect country.
We now enter Normandy, for no one here talks of the
Department but of the old Province, and soon reached Alençon, a well built town,
wide airy and extensive. It is situated in the midst of an extensive plain. The
contrast here is very great for hitherto all has been [enclosing?] but in
Normandy all is open plains, every inch cultivated as in our Common Fields. I as
yet had seen nothing that I could not have mistaken for England. But here I was
delighted with the novelty as well as the beauty and luxuriance. From Alençon to
the next Post Town the drive is like through an orchard. On each side of the
road as well as all over the place are fine Apple and Pear trees, bent to the
ground with fruit, no hedges intervene and all the land underneath the orchard
is covered with grain of every sort which is now rapidly getting in. It is a
delicious evening, I never in my life felt the sensation of abundance my
feelings? partook of the religious as I looked around, for a while I forgot
England and thought it impossible that the Natives o this could be otherwise
than happy.
Alençon famous for Lace, called Point D'Alençon, and Linen for
sheets and shirts. And horses there in here very year in February a Fair of the
finest horses in Normandy, and some fetch as much as 7,000 Liv, about 300
sterling. It lasts 15 days. The Pastures about it also produced very fine cattle
and these and the horses form as surprising contrast with these which we saw
only the day before in Brittany which are of the most diminutive breeds.
Two
leagues are the famous Horses du Pin, from [such?] the most famous breed of
Norman Horses is got.
Slept at Merle sur Larche [Le Mele-sur-Sarthe?].
Wednesday 22nd August 1810
Started early and reached la Luene in the
evening. The axle of the front wheel broke and let us down about ½ a league from
La Quene. Most fortunately a cart passing took out our luggage and we walked to
our Auberge. Leaving Mele the country still continued orchard and [corn?] but
not so beautiful as the Plain of Alençon and before we reached Montagne
[Montagne-au-Perche] it became a completely open country of arable land without
the relief of hedges or a sufficiency of fruit trees to make it pleasant. This
continued so long that I was glad when between Tillières and Nonancourt a [had,
road?] of less fertile land and more hilly first gave me the view of a vineyard,
there are not many and have been only attempted here about 20 years. The wine
they make is very bad. After Nonancourt the country still continues an extensive
plain without enclosures and without many trees except the row of Elms that now
line the road, and from the straightness of which they form a vista.
Montagne sit in the midst of the Plain is a clean town.
St Marchain a
village.
Vemeinl has the finest church externally that I have yet seen in
France, square towers, very high, of very enriched Gothic, with a small round
Fretwork tower rising from it. Here is also a [Telysaplin?] Station, it must[?]
work, they are quite different from outs [small drawing.]
Celebrated for
leather and hosiery and very recently there has been established a Manufacture
of [Divinity, Dentistry?]
Houdan – commerce in Wool, very
considerable.
Maiolles which was just before [Hundan?] is a small village
only remarkable because the Pave commences [with, will?] continues to Paris.
Nothing can equal the Road from Alencon to the Pave, the best I have ever seen
considering the distance.
Near Alencon we passed an Obelisk, between St
Marchain and which has been thrown down and between Moncourant, Reux I have not
been able to learn their history, on the last there is no description but on one
of the stones of the one thrown down we were told when too late that there was
an English transcription, the Bretons on their March to Paris during the
Revolution overthrew all there and some are now rebuilt by the express order of
the Emperor.
Thursday 23rd August 1810
Could not got the fore axle until near five in
the evening the country still continues open, arable, now and then a mile of the
road shaded with Elms, on entering the Barrieres of Versailles the vista
commences, [not visible at top of page – ‘the old palace' ?] is now under
repair, even in the dusk its vastness and splendour astonished me. It was dark
before we reached Paris. There was no room at Hotel de Richelieu so went to
Hotel D'Anbridie[[?] where I was [bybitten?] for the night. Leeper and myself
supped at the Palais Royal. It struck me to be more like Vauxhall than any thing
else that I had seen. The light at the same time proceeding only from
[Studhopes, Mudhopes?] apartment.
Aug.10th. Plymouth, and the next
entry is Morlaix, and so through Rennes, Vitre, Laval, etc., to Paris.
Friday 24th August. 1810
Called on Mons. Denon; it is impossible to do
justice to his politeness, he have me a ticket for the Museum, appointed
an hour to introduce me to the Minister of the Police. In my walk I had passed
the Thuileries, the new Triumphal Arch and the Louvre, and although I knew them
well by plan, pictures, etc., yet my surprise was great at the first sight; so
much dose the magnificence of this part of Paris surpass everything I had
conceived, but what can equal the Musee Napoleon, which at present contains
everything of value almost that is known in the world. The Picture Gallery is
wonderful, one part is at present occupied by the Exposition of the year, for
which prizes are to be given by the Emperor. One by David, of enormous size,
represents the coronation by the Emperor of the Empress. The composition is very
fine; but the light seems to me much too diffused, and there is a want of
breadth, but I had no time to look at the pictures of the Gallery with any
attention. Mr.D. then introduced me to the Duc de Rovigo, and to avoid my being
at all troubled with the Regulations of the Police, most kindly invited me to
take an apartment in his hotel, an offer I could not resist when
so hospitably pressed.
Saturday 25th August. 1810
Breakfasted with Leeper on the Boulevard Ital;
went to the Luxembourg. The gardens, like those of the Thuileries, are partly a
grove of horse chestnuts with abundance of seats, chairs, etc., and partly in
parterres, with a circle of superb orange trees and marble statues, chiefly
copied from the antique, dispersed among them. The palace itself I cannot like,
the masonry is too like brickwork, and there is a want of bold projecting parts
to give it architectural vigour; it is, however, very extensive, and like the
other palaces of the Government, has undergone a complete repair, even the
outside renewed. In my walk through St.Germain I was surprised to see the extent
of garden that many of the hotels possessed, not like our little strip in
London, but many of half-an-acre or more.
The extent of Mr.Denon's talents are not known to us; we look on him only as the editor of a splendid work, and the present Director of French taste, but that he is most eminently qualified, not only by his manner, but my his education, is not within our knowledge. He etches most boldly in the Painter's style, and if I may judge of his talent for modelling from a whole length of the Emperor now before me, he rivals Flaxman in dignified simplicity.
In the evening went to Theatre Francais, and was much delighted with a new piece called Les deux gendres; the versification is evidently fluent and spirited, and at present is very popular. I was not a little pleased to find how well I could comprehend it.
Sunday 26th August 1810
I have seen the Emperor and Empress. He is not the
least like any of the portraits we have of him in England, that keen piercing
look, that deepsunk eye, that greatness of character that made it impossible not
to admire it as a countenance, indicative of everything that he has done, is now
obliterated in fat; his face is round and plump. I had an excellent view of
them, they rode alone in an open landau through the park of St.Cloud, and I kept
close to the carriage for more than a mile; he was in blue regimentals with
broad white facings with a small cross of the Legion of Honour suspended from a
button hole on the left side: he had no hat on: countenance placid, and when he
spoke to the Empress, it was with a smile; he bowed to the people, but very
slightly, and I think not gracefully. I never was more surprised, that on seeing
him, so different is he from what I had figured him; the Empress is young and
seemingly a good figure; her chief beauty is in complexion, which is fair; she
was dressed in purple silk with nothing on her head but a tiara of pearl. Drawn
by four greys,, preceded only by an outrider. An officer of the Imperial Guard
on each side, but so as not to impede the view, and then eight Guards; next came
four more open carriages, filled with scarlet and embroidery. I went in a
cabriolet to St.Cloud; it is the “Empress day,” so called because she gives the
fete in honour of St.Louis
The Seine becomes meandering and rural in its character after leaving Paris, the hills covered with woods and vineyards rising almost directly from the water on the other shore, while the pretty village of Passy is on the high ground on this side, renders the view extremely pretty. My cabriolet was not allowed by the Horse Guards to pass the Bridge of St.Cloud, being a hack. The Seine is here, I think, twice as broad as at Paris (about the breadth at Barnes). The grounds are fine, rising on the side of the hill with the river at the bottom; there are two gates at this end, and the Guards would not permit anyone to enter
The avenue, perhaps near a mile long, was illuminated by lamps placed on wooden frames on each side at small distances in the shape of pyramids, but the great feature of the fete was the waters being lighted. I must acknowledge that when I found that the main avenue was lined on one side for a considerable way with booths, and that on the other, roundabouts and other child's play were permitted, I did not expect much, even from the water, but I was agreeably surprized, for it formed altogether the most splendid artificial scene that could be imagined. The Cascade is, I imagine, near 100-ft high, and the water comes down in three separate streams, the centre proceeds from the urn of a river god, and the other two from vases; the water falls over in steps, perhaps about twelve, into a great bason, from which in entire sheets it falls by three steps into a canal of no great length. On each side of the three upper cascades, on each step, there is a small fountain between the streams, others running on a lower surface. Lion's heads, frogs, river monster, etc., are besides, throwing out prodigious volumes of water in all directions, and in the canal itself there are about sixteen fountains, two of which at the further end are of some height. Imagine this to be illuminated by many thousands lamps, each lamp a small pan of tallow with a wick as big as a torch, which give as much light not only on the parts where there is no water, but everywhere under the water, so that every part of the cascade pours over rows of lamps, and give the whole a most curious and splendid effect.
On each of the canals wooden pilasters were raised and illuminated with festoons of coloured lamps between and to connect these with the cascade lamps imitating [crazy trees?] were placed very happily, this Coup d'Oeil was surprising. Lamps also all round the edge of the water, There are many fountains and cascades about the grounds which were all the at work and lighted but the great Jet d'Eau which is not far from the Cascade attracted most attention. It falls into basons surrounded by trees. It is supposed to be the highest known, or (second highest) and ascends with such force that it does not descend as a stream but in a rain, which extends like smoke a considerable way, in the direction of the wind. I stood in it and was thankful for its refreshing loveliness. I don't wonder at the Emperor's fondness for this Palace when you consider what he owes to the scene in the Orangery.
* * * * *
There was a Court in the evening,
carriages and four, Court dresses covered with embroidery, footmen, as much so,
were arriving at the time I left.
It was about 6 p.m., (before the waters
were lighted.) that the Emperor rode through the Park as before mentioned. The
people cried “Vive l'Empereur! Vive Marie Louise!” but after I got through
the crowd at the cascade, not many followed, so that I kept close and had an
excellent view.
Monday 27th August 1810
Saw St Sulphie, L'Ecole de Medicine, Port St Louis
which has been quite repaired. Ludovico Mayne, instead of the Inscription in
gistins Orf small Elen Feur to the life where the funeral procession is, are
omitted in the drawing a female on the near - - a God on the
further. Went to Theatre de Varietes, are excellent size and pretty theatre,
about 400l at our prices.
Tuesday 28th August 1810
The Boulevards form altogether the finest street
perhaps in the world. The Variety Elyseum of the of the buildings, the width =
the Frieze then crowds of company, find them a character unknown to any other
Capital. The Canal D'Ororcg[?] is brought to Paris and already supplanting many
fountains. They are forming a bason where the ditch of the Bastille was, which
will join the Seine. Pont D'Amterldy much prettier than Pont des Arts. Garden of
Plants a beautiful superb place.
Notre Dame, very plain inside and a new
brass railing gilt, lately put up dividing the Choir from the rest of the
church.
La Morgue. Two dead bodies – suicide.
Palais de Justice –
dined at [Beaumillions?] the most splendid Café.
Jardin des Thuileries.
Tivoli L3 5sols. A very pretty garden. Larger then Vauxhall, but not nearly so
well lighted up or so splendid. Some part of the garden is in the English style.
Among the shrubs there were a few lamps, just enough to light the dark but
leaving a very pleasant gloom. The part illuminated in the walks between regular
rows of trees. Enough for money.[?] Three bands of music, dancing, cotillion,
the first thing girls, very well dressed danced, conjuror; in another part a
paltry puppet show, in another a beast in an old embroidered coat and wig,
talking nonsense, and imitating cats, pigs, laughing, etc., on a violin. Yet
crowds surrounded all these, not children, but old and young, from red ribbands
downwards, roundabouts, swings, etc., then rope-dancing, a Montgolfier let off ,
and in conclusion, a very fine display of fireworks, best I ever saw, splendid,
an irregular one, imitative of the destruction of a town; confusion, both of
noises, explosions and lights, very fine; all going out, the Avenue lighted with
Bengal lights which continued, 10 or 12 of them. Company did not seem very
select though perhaps 100 Red Ribbands but on coming back found 20 or 30
carriages. A man walked down a rope in the middle of fireworks with two flags,
This was a fete extraordinaire. Women much more decent than in London, not that
open attack Theatre Francais, Open quite free. Company in theatre quite
undressed.
Prodigious improvement.
U. thought near 100 new fountains,
all with sculpture. Sculpture, everywhere from the largest building to the
smallest clock. Fine [Carts?] in every coffeehouse.
Necessary to have work
for the many who fail in an Art to ensure the chance of eminent
genius.
Compensation on pulling down buildings. Survey and 1/3 more price.
[and?] compensation for loss of business when local clearing the [Fronts?] of
all the fine buildings. Law relating to repairing homes by government.
Wednesday 29th August 1810
Called on Madame D'Arblay. To the
Exposition. [Bewer and Descoyen?] are certainly fine. Large engravings from fine
pictures of old Masters. L'Aubijon Comique Melodrama, very middling. All the
Theatre dirty.
Thursday 30th August 1810
Met W. Parry at Café Valois, dined at
Very. Feydeau Andrillon, very pretty Opera. Mr St Aubni a very naïve Actress,
reminds me in Person of Mrs Mallhewry. The band is excellent. Theatre very well
resembling the others in style, very full.
For the first time I found out the
roulette tables, and lost 12 francs.
Friday 31st August 1810
Jardin des Plantes. Pantheon. Dined at Verys. 30,
40 in the evening.
Saturday 1st September 1810.
Breakfast with Mons.D. Walked with Underwood
to the Hotel de Ville, Isle St. Louis, La Cite and Invalids, dined with him at
his hotel. After walked in the boulevards. The Boulevard Ital are the most
fashionable, crowds are walking there, and indeed all along in the evening or
sitting in the chairs which line the boulevards, at the price of 2 sous
each.
Sunday 2nd September 1810
Breakfast with Mrs. Harvey. Mrs H paints
remarkably well, a thing not uncommon with ladies here. At the Museum and at the
Monuments there are always more girls drawing than men. Wrote to Ann. Trente et
quarante in the evening. Won 5 louis.
Monday 3rd September 1810
The same course. Won 13 louis. These tables must
be very profitable as the Bank occupies a splendid suite of apartments, part of
which are only open in the evening after eleven, when a ball is given gratis to
the players. An Italian scoundrel thrust himself in to play for me, and after he
had won with my money, he wanted to share the profit. I insisted on the
contrary, and the Chef, as they call him, of the police of this table, soon
settled the affair in my favour. The perfect order of the tables here is very
surprising, there is very high play, but not a word is spoken; sometimes an
internal “Sacré” from a loser, but nothing further; the whole is under the
strict view of the police, and the people concerned are prohibited from replying
even to insults from the players.
Tuesday 4th September 1810
Went with Mr.D. to Sèvres, of which he is
Director; the manufacture, both in form and ornament, seems to me to be beyond
rivalry; the greater part is given away by the Emperor, and the collection is
said to be very thin at present, he having given away almost all on his late
marriage. Vases of all sizes, of the most correct taste, are round about; and
one, not yet fired, measures 5-ft, in diameter, and is moulded from the
celebrated one which Pius VI gave to the Emperor, which is in the vestibule of
the Museum.. Busts of the Emperor as large as life in biscuit, and a
portrait on an oval plate, of Christ, without a metal plate, 3-ft by 2-ft., the
head size of life. They are now preparing a china column imitating the
Vendome column, about 10-ft high. I was much pleased with the affability of
Mr.D. to all the persons concerned in this splendid establishment. The column is
not in the proportion of the Trajan, being of somewhat larger diameter, and the
base smaller. Mr.D. first suggested this to the Emperor as a column by the
moderns to the ancients, i.e. the Emperor to Charlmagne, and to be cast in iron.
His Majesty altered the plan, and suggested their using the cannon taken in the
campaign. Mr.D. says he has now three great works on hand, the Obelisk on the
Pont Neuf, more than 200-ft high, and an elephant 50-ft high, at the Eastern
extremity of the city. The Pont de Jéna is also under his direction.
I found my way into another gaming house in Palais Royal this evening, much more select and more splendidly fitted up. As a stranger, I was admitted, but otherwise a ticket is necessary.
Wednesday 5th September 1810
Went to a sitting of the [Mter?] Institute
held in the Amphitheatre of the Palais des Arts. Merlin de Donay was President,
St.[Ang?] were received as Members in the Class of Belles Lettres, the first is
a tragic writer, the latter has translated Ovid, They each read a long oration
and each received an Answer almost as long. The Members are in a costume of
black embroided with Green, about 90 present, among whom were Cardinal Maivry,
Abbe Licard, David, Denon, Boifry D Anjlas, Leginer, Martin of the [Corendomes?]
so this evening? Old Le Mercier, author of Tableau de Paris &c.
Thursday 6th September 1810
Breakfast with Babey. Went to Mr Langleys
at the Biblioteque. He is the greatest Orientalist here and has all the English
books on the subject. Dined with Warden. A damned bad diner.
Friday 7th September 1810
Dined at a Restaranteur in the Tuilleries[?] and
went to see the Bayadères at the Opera. The beauty of the scenery, the
perfection of the costumes the uniform splendour with the corps de ballet and
chorus, make this altogether the most enchanting opera. I counted near 100
dancers and chorus on the stage at once, all of whom are good dancers and
singers. Mme. Branchi sang delightfully.
Saturday 8th September 1810
Bibliothèque Nationale, which occupies the
united hotels of [Colbert and Louvois?] is a most splendid collection, the
manuscripts are many, of them most curious and valuable. I examined some Chinese
superbly painted and some very fine Missals. There are here also many bibles
bound in ivory very curiously carved, and in metal set with precious stones. I
also saw the Virgil brought from the Vatican and a volume of [Meinda?] in the
handwriting of Louis XIV. The facilities to this library are admirable . Anybody
may go in at certain hours and to people who are known, books are also lent. The
Museum of Antiques are valuable though they do not seem to be numerous. Many
fine [Gems?] and Cameos are among them. The [Dodonean?] Jupiter, [Apollioni?] of
Augustus &c. A large silver shield is called Scipio's.
Before dinner went to Vigier's baths, which are very pretty externally, but very paltry within, a very small closet with large copper kettle, for a bath, no thermometer, and no person to rub you dry; it is, however, cheap enough, about 1s. Some people eat while in the bath; the man asked me if I wished it; there are in this one 140 baths, always tolerably full, half men, half women. 1400 baths have been taken in one day, and there are three others on the river, equal in size; besides this, they abound all over the town.
Sunday 9th September 1810
Guyet and myself took a cabriolet to the
Barrière du Trône, distinguished by two large columns but which are unfinished,
the lower part of the shaft being left in the block seemingly to be sculptured
[amaridestally?]. The avenue from hence to Vincennes is now of small trees, the
Revolution having destroyed almost all the old ones. Vincennes itself is curious
but the Chateau is not picturesque. This is the present State Prison. On the
open ground before the gate there is a Park of Artillery, and a Mortar Battery
for the practice of the young Officers of Artillery. The Bois de Vincennes is
merely an Oak copse, is cut every 7 years. It is enough at present to give a
shade to the pedestrians. We dined very badly at Charenton, a village on
the Marne, just before it joins the Seine. It is a sort of Chelsea, to which the
Parisians, not of high life, go to eat fried gudgeons, etc. The walk from
Charenton to Paris by the side of the Seine in a most heavenly evening, was
delightful. There is a Benry[?], a very fine country house with a Park and
avenue of fine Horse Chestnuts. We then went round the Boulevards, which, as
usual, were crowded, to the Café Turque. We could hardly gain admission.
Monday 11th September 1810.
Went to the Jardin des Plantes with Mons. D.
and Madame D. [Houchen?] A model of the Elephant is made about 3ft high from
which the great one at Portes St Antoine will be built in bronze. Nothing can be
better arranged than the Beasts, Birds etc in the Collection with the exception
of the Lions &c which are in very bad Dens[?]. For the rest they are in
little enclosures among which there are walks and the buildings which give
shelter to the animals are a rustic style, the Collection of Minerals is very
great and perfectly arranged. A line of rooms are filled with stuffed birds,
beasts, butterflys, shells &c in the most excellent preservation. Among them
is the is the male elephant which died here some time since, the Hippopotamus,
Giraffe, Elk etc. Dined with Mr H. and Mr Denon.
Tuesday 12th September 1810
Went to l'Étoile, where the great triumphal
arch is going on, though at present not more than 10-ft out of the ground.
Walked round the Barrier to that of Montmatre. There is nothing remarkable. One
is well enough, resembling a Temple of the Tuscan Order with Pillars all
round. X. The gardens of Monceaux[?] seem beautiful in the English Style and a
Temple which half projects into the road, is something like the Temple at
Tivoli, only of a heavy Ionic Order. This from the map is the Barrier de
Chartres though at present [short?]
X – de Courcilles.
Wednesday 13th September 1810
I fooled away the morning on a French novel
‘Les Deux Boynes.” Dined with Carter. In the course of the morning however, I
went with [him, Tia?] to the Palais Royal, along the Boulevards to fix on points
of view, also the Fountain of Innocents.
September 14th. Went to Montmarte with Underwood and Carter, this is a
very curious Hill arising close to the Barriers and formed of a species of blue
Earth. Under that a fine Plaster which is used in building Paris.
The view
of Paris hence is compleat, it is too much like a map to be picturesque .
St.Cloud, St Germaine and a great extent of country around are visible.
Close to the Barrier des Martyrs, they are building an Abattoir, ie, a most
extensive slaughtering place for cattle, it will cover some acres of ground, it
were well if London would follow the example and by that means avoid the
disgraceful scenes of bullock driving &c, which are unknown here.
Went
to the Panorama of [Wajram?] it made me melancholy to think what was lost by
this battle, it is well done, the Plan was given by Denon from sketches made at
the time.
Saturday 15th September 1810
Went to Penjaud and drew for 100 louis at
19:75 francs and after with [Babey?] to the Canal de [L'Orang, L'Orsureg?]. The
Basin is very fine, but the Canal itself much too narrow for any extensive
navigation, the Barrier of Villette at the end is in an excellent situation and
when the trees on the banks are grown it will be a very fine spot. We followed
the aqueduct which goes off to the west to supply the N.W. part of Paris as far
as Rue Paisonniere.
Went to Hospital St.Louis, a large but very old building
situated very airily, about 8 or 900 patients, the woman at the Gates [s
d?] were in it.
Sunday 16th September 1810
Received Ann's letter, dated 5th September.
After breakfasting with Babey we went to see the model of the Languedoc Canal.
It did not much interest me, as one canal is very much ike another. It is,
however, on a large scale and is said to accurate in detail and measure. Thence
we went round the whole of the south Boulevards. They are quite different from
the north, being merely a road planted with trees. These are better on the other
side and indeed form a perfect arch over the footpath in vista
Unit about
1770 these Boulevards ended at Rue D'[Enfer?] but then they were continued from
a part a little back of Rue D'Enfer on to the Saltpetriere, and from the Barrier
D'Enfer the new wallin 1786 was made on the edge of the Boulevard and this is
the only part where the old Barriers were not extended.
This Boulevard is
quite [infrequented?] the part near the Invalids is skirted with many charming
houses and gardens and just at the at the end of the Boulevard, near Pont
d'Austerlitz, there are an abundance many of taverns with gardens, which are
much frequented by the lower orders; in the garden is a place for dancing, and a
sort of orchestra for a brace of fiddles; the crowds here on Sunday evenings are
prodigious; they pass through the house, buy a piece of meat and a bottle of
wine, and then get a table in sight of the dancers. Returned along the north
side of the river home.
Monday 17th September 1810
First to the Horse Races at the Champ de Mars,
they were as bad as I expected, indeed it was no race as one horse out of two
(the number that ran) distance the other easily. I saw them afterwards, they
were hardly fit for common hunters in England. The race was for 1000 fcs. The
Champs de Mars recalled strongly to my mind the early scenes of the Revolution,
it forms an excellent course, and though not large, many thousands can see the
horses [houses?] all round. With Guyet I then went along the Barriers from
l'Ecole Militaire to Mont Rouge, where I dined with his family.
Wednesday 19th September, 1810
Went with Underwood to the Palais Legulatif
and Luxembourg to fix upon views, he did not like them.
Thursday 20th September 1810
With Guyet to Malmaison, it is merely a
house, and externally a very shabby one, the inside is most beautifully fitted
up with great taste and splendour. Except a gallery for pictures, which forms a
wing, there is no large room in it; the library, which is the largest, being
only about 40-ft long. This library is the prettiest room I ever saw, the roof
slightly arched and painted in fresco, and the room is divided in three by
projecting mahogany pillars on marble slabs. This was the study of Buonaparte,
and who knows what plans were laid here? The room next to it was the Council
Chamber, very small, but well furnished.
[hand drawn plan of Malmaison]
[image page 54]
Above is a very handsome bed of muslin, with [pacts?] like an
English bed, the colour of the wall, pink and covered with the same muslin in
draperies from this [leads?] another and then a series of dressing rooms
&c. I remarked Wertalls[?] two little prints of the Cottage Girl and
Company. The floor of the Gallery is very fine, of Rosewood and Walnut wood
beautifully mixed. Among the pictures are 4 Clauds, brought, I believe from
Capel. They did not strike me as equal to some we have in England. A statue of
[Hela?] by Canova pleased me.
The Garden is quite English and very pretty,
and the Hothouse, fitted up I believe by Kennedy is compleat.
We then went to
Marly which is visible from Malmaison. The works are extensive, 14 wheels of
36ft above the surface and at the same time by means of immense iron connected
bars put in motion other [pencips?] which are at the reservoir. By this the
water is at last carried to Chateau St. Eau. At the commencement of the Aqueduct
and thence to Versailles. X
To St.Germain, a fine old castle, with moats, the
terrace is magnificent, extending along the top of a hill and commanding a most
extensive prospect, while the Seine runs beneath. It is nothing like Richmond, a
total want of wood and a dreary chalky character from which villages in a plain
entirely are sheltered.
The Palace is converted to a school of [Reintation?]
i.e. Cavalry and Colonel Brunel, Denon's nephew, and who is also a Baron, is
second in command.
The Palace of Marly is now pulled down, from this that
the 2 houses at the Entrance to the Champs Elysee are taken.
X – 64 pumps on
the river. 79 at the 1st Resevoir and 82 at the upper. There 225 pumps run the
water more than 500.
About 300 inches of water [fonterier?] in 24 hours when
at its greatest power.
Friday 21st September 1810
Sat at home in the morning, dined at Rue
Courtte[?] and in the evening called at Mr D'Houchen's where I met Prince
Piginatelli, Corsin, and Mr Damartin[?]
Sunday 23rd September 1810
Breakfasted with Warden, Went to the Museum to
see the parade, the Imperial Guard, including the Dutch and Portuguese regiment,
in all more than 6000 men, formed in six lines within the Place des Thuilleries,
and three regiments of horse in the Carrousel. At 12 the Emperor, on his white
horse, followed at a short distance by the Marshals, Aides-de-camp, etc., went
through the lines. He stopped and talked with the commanding officer of each
battalion, and received papers from several, which he delivered to a Marshal, he
rode past the Dutch without stopping, he then dismounted and manoeuvred the
Portuguese a considerable time, they performed very well; he then drew them up
three sides of a square, and delivered them their Eagles, I suppose he made a
speech, for they cheered several times; after this, he drew up the Dutch and
spoke to them, and they cheered him, the rest then filed past him.
He looks well on horseback, but I did not observe any particular grace in his riding, on foot he is absolutely fat, he was dressed in dark green with white facings, quite plain. He seemed very familiar with those around him, among whom were Bessières and Devoust. The Empress sat at a window, a piece of crimson velvet was put out of it, to say that she was there. In the evening I went to the Opera, and at the end of the 1st Act the Emperor and Empress came. He came to the front and made an awkward stiff bow to the house, she followed and made a half courtesy; the difference between the elegance of the entrée of the Family (i.e., English Royal) when they went in London, and this, forcibly struck me. The audience cheered him on entering, but not on quitting, when he repeated his bow.
Monday 24th September 1810
I looked in at the Criminal Court, a man and
woman were on trial for a theft. They sat on the left of the Judges in a box
with several officers. They were examined and badgered [wart smelly, orally?]
and when they called witnesses, they were again confronted with them, the Judge
undertook the whole. The Court is merely a room, 3 Judges sat, the substitute of
the [Prosecutor Imperial?] and but one person on the other side who I suppose
was Counsel. No wigs.
I saw Sainte Chapelle, the glass is most beautiful and
the architecture interesting, the most light, elegant. At present it contains
the [diclarues?] of the Empire.
I then went to the Luxembourg, the apartments
of the [tenant, Senate?] are very superb, particularly the Salle de Senal[?]
[hand drawn plan]
Page 60
Sale de Roeberry
The Throne is under a
Cupola supported by cariatyds all gilt and the whole range of rooms fitted up
and furnished in the most splendid style. In the evening went to Mrs Robertson
with Warden.
Tuesday 25th September 1810
I dedicated the greater part of the morning to
the examination of the pictures of the Flemish, Dutch, German School and also of
the Antiques.
Dined at Nandel with Lupee.
Wednesday 26th
September 1810
Went to see the model of the Arch at l'Étoile; it will be
about 130-ft high, the proportions very grand, built of stone which come from
Burgandy, which is very hard and takes a polish like marble. Afterwards went to
the Bois de Boulogne, which has been very much destroyed by the Revolution,
returned by the Barrier de Passy. Dined with Warden and Mrs Robertson and staid
until 10.
Thursday 27th September 1810
Went with Babey to the Conservatoire des Arts
and Metiers, a collection of models of the [Marhards?] Instruments used in the
manufacturing &c. They are not of curious merit, and not kept in very good
order. Some shops of chemists, Porcelain &c. in miniature which belonged
formerly tot eh Duc de Orleons are pretty but useless. This collection in the
Monastery of St. Martin where it occupies two galleries which the Monks had just
finished before the Revolution, a very fine staircase lead up to them. Warden
set off this evening for America.
Friday 28th September 1810
Went to the Cour Criminelle, in form it is
merely a large room
[Hand drawn plan of court]
File 63
A young man was
tried for attempting to strangle a woman he had slept with and robbing her.
After asking of the Prisoner who is seated along with some Gendarmes his name,
age, place of birth and abode. The Jury promise to give a true verdict, the
Griffier then reads what they call the Act of Accusation which contains the
whole History of the Transaction, the Evidence of all the Witnesses and the
Deposition of the Prisoner at his previous appearance before the Police and
whatever admissions he has made, by whatever means procured are used against
him. The Prosecutor General then shortly states the substance and the Judge
calls the Witnesses reserving the [prisoner?] for the last. The Counsel have
nothing to do with the Witnesses, the Judge undertaking the examination and at
the end of the Testimony of each Witness, he interrogates the Prisoner and
actually frightens him into a confession of distinct facts or at least a
confusion which leaves the [impression? Importance?] of crime. The style is
worse than any cross examination of witnesses frequently consisting of the most
severe abuse. After all the Witnesses are done the Prosecutor General again
speaks, and the Defence Counsel replies. The Judge then sums up, or in this
case, rather made a violent speech against the prisoner. As the theft was not
[carried out, complete?] but the attempt was, the - -
[page ripped out
of diary]
Saturday 30th September 1810
Went to Versailles. The front of the City is
very irregular and bad, but that to the Garden the most magnificent that can be
imagined. A centre and two wings, but the wings are placed far back, which
prevents their being too principal. The repairs are proceeding with greatest
rapidity. The public apartments are entirely lined with red and white marble,
and the ceilings are painted by le Brun. The great Gallery is superbly fitted up
with looking-glasses. The petits appartements are white and gold, but the whole
is, of course, quite out of repair. The Emperor intends to re-instate everything
exactly as it was, Fromentin excepted. The garden is very large and very
regular, and the waters the most splendid in the world; they are at present out
of repair. The Grand Canal, which during the Revolution had almost become a
field, has been cleaned and filled, about two years back. In the Bosquets
there is an artificial rock in which is placed a group of Apollo and the Graces,
and two groups of horses. This was the whim of the last Queen, the Apollo is of
an older date by Girardon.
This is the Bain d'Apollon. Another group by
Girardon of l'Enlèvement de Proserpine is in another bosquet, called the
Colonnade, from a circular double row of marble columns which surround
it.
The Great Trianon is very fine, the columns Languèdoc marble; it has been recently fitted and furnished, the Gallery contains some very fine pictures. A set of chairs of Beauvais tapestry, of birds and landscapes, delighted me.
The little Trianon, the seat of the pleasures of Marie Antoinette, which since was a Restauranteur, is now the property of the Empress, and is prettily but plainly furnished. The garden is beautiful, and quite English.
File 65
Plan of Versailles
Wednesday 3rd October 1810
[G.H. writes Sept. 3rd. ]
Went to
L'Odeon and heard La Vedova Cappicizzo of Grigliclini[??] the music is charming,
but the corps not very good. Me Covica is principal singer and is very tolerable
but not what might be expected in the Metropolis of France. The truth is that
the great Opera swallows up everything else, and is supported by the Government
at a great expense.
This Theatre is the prettiest in Paris, it was built
lately.
Denon returned to Paris.
Friday 5th October 1810
Went with Denon to David's, and saw his new
picture of the Emperor delivering the colours to the army; like all his pictures
it is too theatrical. Berthier has the attitude of a tragedian taking an oath,
and another officer is balanced on one toe. The whole is confused, very
splendidly coloured, but the principal light, instead of falling on the Emperor,
is a mass of standards in the centre.
Mr Revoils Picture of the
Interview between [Fral? 1st?] and Charles V is beautiful for composition,
drawing and finish. I have never seen its equal. A fine model of a General by Mr
Paiquier we also saw.
Dined with Parry at the [Rocha?] &c, Cancale with
Sir H.T.Tichbourne, his son and another gentleman.
Sunday 7th October 1810
To the Luxembourg, still dissatisfied, the figure
and character of David's Brutus, it is a man [hid and hittering, like a?] there
is a little error in the putting furniture of the most elegant kind and forms in
the Age of Brutus.
The Opera in the evening. I saw from the orchestra the
[Devon?] du Village by Roupean, very much pleased, the music is charming. 90 in
the orchestra.
Tuesday 9th October 1810
With Lupee to St Denis and Montmorceney, with
neither was I much pleased.
Saturday 13 October 1810
Dined with Mr.D.Houchen, Cousine[?], Le Mercier,
etc.
Monday 15th October 1810
With Mrs. Robertson and Col.Burr.
Tuesday 16th October 1810
With M. [Hautrie?] M.Serrurier and Babey.
Wednesday 17th October 1810
With Babey and then went to see Figaro.
Friday 19th October 1810
Savonnirie, Gobelins, Glass manufactury with
Babey. Bad workmen at latter.
Saturday 20th October 1810
With Babey. Palais de [Hinne?], Abbaye de
Clugny. To top of Pantheon, and saw the lodging of Marat, and small room where
he was stabbed.
October -
Bread - 3
Beef - 12
Mutton - 12
Pork - 15
Veal
- 14
Butter - 36
Eggs – 1.2
Fowel, fine - .45
Turkey - 100
Ducks
-
Hare - 100
2 Partridge - 40
Sugar - 105
Coffee- 105
Tea 16lb
-
Milk, jar -10
Candle lb - 13
Wax l. 4 - 4
Soap lb - 24
Oil lb
- 36
Sunday 21st October 1810
Went with M.Denon to the Museum to see such of
the pictures as were hung. Revoil's still charm me, and some small cabinet
pictures by Laurent are beautiful. Thence we went over the Thuilleries, which is
furnished magnificently. Most of the rooms are hung with Lyons silk of blue and
gold, or purple and gold, but the bedroom of the Empress is the most superb. The
room and bed are of crimson velvet richly embroidered, but the toilet table,
glass, and dressing glass are of silver gilt, and of the most finished work,
they cost about 25000 l, and were a present form the good city of Paris on the
marriage.
Monday 22nd October 1810
To the observatory with Guyet. Jardin des Plantes
and Morgue, where there was a body.
Sunday 28th October 1810
To the Quarries at [Montmartre, Minilmonca?]
which are very extensive, hollowed for a league through the hill. Pres St
Gervais, Belleville and Bois de Rouncainville. The country and prospects are
prettier than any I have seen in the neighbourhood of Paris.
Near the
Barrier de Combats I paid a livre to see dog-fighting, bear baited, wolf ditto,
and a bull ditto. The bear was much the best; but a most wanton piece of
barbarity was the turning of three poor asses on a dozen mastiffs, who almost
killed them.
Pencil notes at end of dairy.
Please to attend on Mr A
Cooper of St Thomas's Hospital, request ..
Please to ask Mr A Cooper to reserve a [Drapership, Dressership?] for me for the winter of 1811. Please to enquire of Hoby, Boot-maker, if he has ever received payment for this last articles with which he furnished [me?] this morning was left with Mrs Stroud of the Virginia Coffee House. Babey Ret Boot
Theatre Francais.
Orchestra 6.60
1st gallery, 2nd Loges 4.40
3rd
Logia & Logis de ceinture 3.30
Parterre 2.20
2nd Gallery 1.-0
Acadamie Imperial
Balcon 10
1st Logia – 2nd in face decant
Same –
orchestra & Amphitheatre 7.50
Bajuiner 2nd de Cole
3rd in face
3rd
de Cole
Parterre 4th & 5th
In face 3.60
Amphitheatre de 4th
3.60
L'Odeon H - F
L'Avant Scene 5 – 5
1st Loges en
face 5 – 3
“ de Cole 4 – 3
Rey de Champer 4
– 3
Orchestra 1st Gallery 3 – 2.50
2nd Loges 3 –
2.5
4th Grilles du Ceinteur 2 – 2
3rd Logis 1.30 –
1.50
Amphitheatre de 3rd 1 – 1
Parterre 1.50 –
1.25
/45
August 7th - 70 Leatherhead
10 co Mrs
Collinson
17th [Ellen?] do Leatherhead
19th Self to Mrs Small
19 Eleen
to Leatherhead
29
Encycl.Brit
DENON DOMINIQUE VIVANT, BAREN DE. 1747-1825
Artist and Archeologist, was born at Chalon sur Saone. At first studied law,
but always showed a preference for art and literature. Was a favourite in
society, owing to his agreeable manners and exceptional powers of conversation.
Gained the favour of Louis XV., who entrusted him with the collection and
arrangement of a cabinet of medals and antique gems for Madame de Pompadour, and
subsequently appointed him attaché to the French Embassy in St.Petersburg. On
the accession of Louis XVI., Denon was transferred to Sweden, but soon returned
to Paris. In 1775 was sent to Switzerland, visited Voltaire at Ferney, whose
portrait he took and published. During a residence of seven years at Naples he
carefully studied the ancient monuments and perfected himself in etching and
mezzotint engraving. Later on he resided for some years at Venice, and visited
Florence, Bologna and Switzerland. While there he heard that his property had
been confiscated, and his name placed on the list of the proscribed, and with
characteristic courage he resolved at once to return to Paris. His situation was
critical, but he found support and protection in the friendship of the painter
David, who obtained for him a commission to furnish designs for republican
costumes. This he did to the satisfaction of the Revolutionists, and his name
was removed from the list of emigrants. When the terrors of the Revolution were
over, Denon was one of the numerous band of eminent men who found a congenial
resort in the house of Madame le Beauharnais. Here he formed the acquaintance of
Bonaparte, to whose fortunes he attached himself with the happy instinct of one
who was always quick to discern the coming power. By special invitation of the
General he joined the expedition to Egypt, where he made numerous sketches of
the monuments of ancient arts, sometimes under the very fire of the enemy. In
1802 he published his “Voyage dans la basse et la haute Egypte,” a work which
crowned his reputation both as an archeologist and as artist. In 1804 he was
appointed by Napoleon to the important office of Director-General of Museums,
which he filled greatly to the benefit of art and artists until the restoration
of 1815, when he had to retire. He was a devoted friend of Napoleon, whom he
accompanied in his expeditions to Austria, Spain and Poland, taking sketches
with his wonted fearlessness on the various battle-fields, and guiding the
conqueror in his choice of spoils of art from the various cities which were
pillaged. After his retirement he worked on a great history of ancient and
modern art, profusely illustrated, which was unfinished at his death in 1825. It
was finished in 1829.
---------------
I am fortunate in possessing some
relics of this eminent man. Viz:
A Chinese cabinet, formerly his
property.
An Indian ink drawing of the artist standing up and sketching in
Egypt.
His portrait in a small bronze medallion.
These were all left to me
by D.D.H. G.H.
_________________
30
G.HEATH'S PASSPORT SIGNED BY NAPOLEON.
In 1810 G.Heath was very anxious to see all the art treasures which had been carried to the Louvre, from all Europe. And so he got some kind of rather nominal, (I fancy rather than serious commission, probably from the R.A.; and through Sir Joseph Banks, President of the Royal Society, he got an introduction to Mr.Denon, the head of the department, and permission to pass into France. He went over for his long vacation. But when he wanted to return for the first day of Term, he was told that the Emperor thought his ministers too lax in allowing passages to and for into England, and had determined to sign all passports himself. And the Minister told him that if the passport should be presented for signature when the Emperor was in a bad humour, he would throw it under the table, and no one would ever dare to present it again. So he was advised to wait till papers ready for signing should be called for, which advice he took, and it was duly signed on October 31st, 1810. He did not embark till November 19th. How long he was getting to Westminster Hall I do not know, but he must have lost the best part of his Term. The story is illustrative of the way in which Napoleon meddled with the details of administration, and also of the fear of him which prevailed among his Ministers. D.D.H.
Passports signed by Napoleon in favour of Englishmen are exceedingly
rare, and a few years ago, when Lady D.Nevill's second series of recollections
appeared, it was stated in a footnote that such a document, now in possession of
……., was believed to be unique. I at once wrote to the Editor informing him that
he was mistaken, as I also possessed one. He replied by expressing his surprise,
and asked for details, which I sent him. G.H.
No address.
Spring Grove.
July 23rd. 1810.
My Dear Sir,
I enclose a
letter from M.Denon to Mr.Heath acquainting him that he has permission to
proceed to Paris, and telling him what steps are necessary for him to take.
M.Denon was in the country when my letter reached him, he makes an apology for
having delayed the answer, but why the letter itself, dated May 14th did not
arrive till July 23rd does not appear.
I am, my dear Sir,
Your Faithful
Servant.
J.Banks.
The last entry in the journal is rather more than a month before the date
on the passport, of which interesting document, now in my possession, I subjoin
a copy.
31
No.51. PASSE-PORT IMPERIAL
Coat of Arms
Napoléon, Empereur des
Français, Roi d'Italie, Protecteur de la Confédération du Rhin. Médiateur de la
Confédération Suisse.
Nous avons autorisé et autorisons Le Sr.Heath (George) profession d'Avocat, natif de Londres, départment d------- démeurant à Londres à se rendre en Angleterre ----- et lui permetions, à cet effet, de s'embaraquer sur un Batiment pourvu de licence, dans le port de Dunkerque.
Au Palais de Fontainebleau le 31st Octobre, 1810.
Le Ministre
de la Police générals,
Le duc de Rovigo
Par l'Empereur
Le Ministre Secrétaire d'Etat,
Le Duc de Bassano
Signalement.
Agé de 31 ans.
Taille d'un métre 70 centimétres.
Cheveux
chataine.
Sourcille chataine.
Yeux bleus.
Nez
ordinaire.
Bouche moyenne.
Menton
rond.
Visage ovale.
Teinte pâle.
Signes particulieres,
Signature de Porteur
G.Heath
AVIS ESSENTIAL
Dans les Villes où il existe un Commissaire général de Police, le porteur est tenu de se présenter devant lui, pour faire viser son Passe-port.
Enregistrement. No.4.
Vu par le commissaire de police de la ville de Dunkerque, le 14 Obre., 1810,
poujr aller à Ostende.
Vu bon pour embarquer abord du navire le Jeune
Pierre de licence.
Dunkerque, le 19 9bre, 1810
Vu de nouveau pour aller à
Boulogne, le 19 9bre, 1810
32
H.E.MALDEN ON THE PASSPORT.
After the rupture of the peace of Ameins, 1803, when war was renewed between
England and Napoleon, the English travelling in France were, when possible,
arrested by Napoleon's orders and treated as prisoners of war. No Englishman
could go into the Emperor's dominions, which in 1810 included Holland, (and of
course Belgium), without risk of being so treated. Your grandfather got over
somehow. Plenty of small vessels and even rowing boats in the Straits of Dover,
plied across in spite of war, because smuggling was so enormously profitable. To
get out of France, it would have been no use to have an English Passport. To
have shown such a thing would have been a certain prelude to imprisonment; all
intercourse was forbidden by Napoleon. I have forgotten the wording of the
passport, but it was, I suppose, a permission to travel in France, or rather in
the Emperor's dominions, and among his allies and dependants in Germany.
Everybody had to have his “papers” in order to satisfy the police and
military people that he was not a spy nor a trader in English goods. By means of
this passport he would get to the sea coast from Paris, and there, (it was at
Dunkirk I believe), find a smuggler to take him over. What I want to know is how
he crossed over when he went to Paris? We were at war in 1810 with everyone from
Brest to St.Petersburg, all the coast was an enemy's country. The actual
crossing would be easy enough, a mere matter of money and discomfort in a
smuggling smack, but when he landed, no English passport would be of any use, --
as I said – dangerous in itself. How did he get to Paris? Had he arranged for a
French friend to meet him I wonder.
H.E.M.
ENTRIES IN OLD ALMANACS BY GEORGE HEATH.
1816. April 24th Went to Gill's Hill 28th. Ditto to
breakfast.
May 21st. Paperhangers began.
June 8th. Took
Jane to Gill's Hill. (Jane R.Dunbar – Mrs.Sneyd).
July 12th. Corbould
?18 18s. for picts
Oct.22nd. Jane went to Dorking, Norfolk. (She met
Capt. Sneyd. Her future husband, on the coach this journey).
Dec. 19th.
D.D.H. Scarlet fever.
1825. Jan.18th. To London.
Overturned.
Mar.3rd. D. came home,
measles.
Mar.24th. Julia measles; 28th – very ill; 29th –
better.
April 25th. Private road begun to
Kitlands.
Sept. 1st. Pond finished.
1826. April 26th. Ann Hare married. (Cousin to Mrs.Heath).
1830. Jan. 21. D. entered at Temple
April
30th. First stone of new room (Kitlands drawing
room).
Nov.22nd. Out with the mob. Swing riot in Dorking
(Home) (George Heath)