James Augustus Milbourne Marsh
JAMM 12th Dec 1884
Journal from the P&O Steamer ‘Ganges’ Sydney to London.
Mr, Mrs, Miss McConnell.
Mr, Miss and young Douglas (left at Malta)
Mr Dubern (Frenchman. Left at Columbo)
Miss Millatt (Left at Adelaide)
Mr Farquhar Scott (left at Albany)
Mr Fenwick (Dr)
Mr Grunow (Left at Colombo)
Mr Schwarz ditto
Mr Shaw Ditto
Mr Hislop Ditto
Mr Addington Ditto
Mr & Mrs Rigney & infant.
Mr and Misses Moir (left at Albany)
Mr & Mrs Conlan
Mr & Mrs Bray & son )
Miss Bray ) from Adelaide
Miss [Poke?] )
Mr & Miss Solomon
Mr & Mrs Barlow Roderick & child
Mrs Johnson (left at Colombo)
Mr Cooper (left at Colombo)
Mr Cayley (Pemberton Coll contab)
Mr Wenz (Frenchman)
Mr & Mrs Cochran (came from Colombo)
Mr Hall from Malta
Mr Hay from Malta
Mr Washhouse [?]
Mr Williams from Malta
Friday 12th December 1884.
Sydney, New South Wales.
At X o’clock I left “Glen Ayr,” leaving Grace and Mrs Stephney[?] and Marie Russell and [Lina?] Stephen to follow me to the ship, P& O Steamer “Ganges” lying at Circular Quay. I first of all went to A.J.S. Bank and obtained from them £75 in sovereign to carry with me on the voyage. From thence to Water Police Court, sent Constable Flaherty with several boxes to the wharf and went with Milly and little Jack on board about XI. Found a great concourse of people (and friends) came to wish us good bye. Lady Manning and daughter, Mrs James Manning and Annie, Fanny and Wise, the Stephens, Captain Preston, C. Cowper, W.W. Stephen.
The solicitors headed by Levie M.P. had proposed to present me with a gold locket as a mark of their respect and it was arranged after some difficulty with Captain and Health Officers, that I should go down with them in the Police Launch “Nemesis” as faar as Bradley’s Head and that the Steamer should stop at that point and take me no board there. I therefore left the ship and went down the harbour as far as the point arranged. On board were the following solicitors:-
W Roberts sen, H. Levien M.P., F. Gannan, Hill, Lowe, Wallace, Barry Hourigan, Brady and Inspectors Anderson, Walen, Donahue and Attwell, also Joseph of [Nousance?] Seymour and three of my colleagues, Addison, Abbott and Johnson, (Buchanan, Clarke and Yates not being able to get across from the Police Courts). Roberts as Senior Solicitor addressed me in very complimentary terms and then presented the locket in question. Inspector Anderson also expressed himself favourably on the part of the Police, and Inspector Seymour on the part of the Corporation of its Officers. I did not get on board the “Ganges” till 10 o’clock, when I found all the passengers were at lunch, Grace however, was on deck, watching the proceedings of the Nemesis, and she and I, after I got on board, remained waving our handkerchiefs till we got as far as the “Heads” and the launch was out of sight and we bid adieu to our many kind friends for awhile. This saying good bye is a terrible wrench to one’s feelings, as the poet Shakespeare says “in every parting there is an image of death.”
Saturday 13th December 1884
Lovely weather. Our passengers consist of Mr, Mrs and Miss McConnell from Queensland, Mr, Miss and young Douglas, also from Queensland. Miss Millat, a pretty ladylike girl, who is going only to Adelaide to meet a lady friend and return again to Sydney.
Miss Boodle, who came out as Governess to Mrs Drysdale, the pretty widow.
Mr McCutcheon, a young Civil Service Officer, (who has been staying at the Mitchells) on sick leave.
Mr Dubern, a clever Electrician, going to Colombo, there to await orders.
Mr Farquhar Scott, a young Bank Inspector en route to “Perth.”
Mr Grunow, a German Naturalist who has 6,000 specimens of seaweed, going to write a book.
In the evening had music and singing in the “Music Hall.” Miss McConnell, Miss Douglas and the Captain (Andrews) the performers. He has a good voice. And Miss McConnell plays well and has been well taught by some good master abroad, on the Continent.
Grace and I occupy a 2 berth cabin midships, opposite the Engine. I had previously chosen a 3 berth one aft, but the fear of the vibration of the screw induced Grace, on the advice of Lady Manning, to change it. But the noise and thumping of the Engine, all night, disturbed y rest and I am [treating?] for a 4 berth cabin aft, which the Agents and Purser have promised me, in the event of no one taking it in Melbourne.
Sunday 14th December 1884
Very cloudy drizzly weather. We arrived at Williamstown Pier about 4 o’clock in afternoon, and on the opposite side of Pier the Orient Steamer “Sorata” (just arrived from England) lay. We were inundated with sightseers from Melbourne who regularly rushed the decks, and saloon shortly after our arrival. The Stewards were busy looking after the cabins for fear of intrusion. Indeed this was very necessary for the crowd appeared certainly wanting in manners, and sat themselves down in the chairs in the cuddy as well as the passenger chairs on deck.
The Captain changed his seat at dinner today, and took the bottom of the table instead of his usual place in the middle opposite Grace and myself, and having on his left Miss Nuttal and Miss Boodle and on his right Miss Douglas. This change seemed to arise from his having 2 lady friends dining with him, and who came, I believe from Melbourne and as they were not introduced and kept aloof, I do not know their names or their “genus.” The Captain is a very attentive man, especially to young ladies, to whom he has commenced to give “afternoon teas” in his cabin, interspersed with (I hear) his views of the different kinds of “Love” in the World, the Parent’s, the wife’s, the child’s, the Lover’, &c &c, and he is a married man and supposed to be a safe specimen of humanity.
Monday 15th December 1884
Great noise throughout the ship. The discipline hitherto (at sea) kept up, very much released whilst alongside the Pier. The morning broke with rain clouds and a bleak wind, and shortly after breakfast heavy showers fell. The Captain, as at dinner yesterday, located himself at the end of the Cuddy Table, instead of in the centre, and entertained two of his lady friends, (evidently from the shore). Douglas and McConnell started before and for the purpose of “foraging,” for some Inn to stay at for the next few days; Grace, Miss Millat and I started a little while after them but they missed the train, and we overtook them at the Station, and then we went altogether on to Melbourne, by train 9d each. We passed through a flat and uninteresting country. Many of the houses appeared built of wood, and only temporary structures. On reaching the station, we hired a one horse waggonette, and drove to a Miss Goulds, Parliament Place, where we took lodgings. Had lunch at 1, and then Grace, Miss Millat and I went sight-seeing, first to the R.C. Cathedral, St Patricks, where we saw several female devotees on their knees worshipping. We then strolled to the Picture Gallery, and saw the fine painting of “Esther” not long since purchased from London by this gallery. Miss Millat saw it in the Exhibition in London shortly before she came out. Another oil painting “A Question of Propriety,” representing a dancing girl, before the Priests and Officers of the Inquisition. There were a great many other nice pictures, but though the Gallery itself was much better than the Sydney buildings, yet I do not think the pictures themselves were either so numerous or so valuable. Not so the statuary. This was far superior to ours. A fresh purchase, a group of goats by a young artist (Summers) attracted our attention and a cast of Dr Johnson’s head which no doubt was a faithful likeness of the lexicography brought up the memories of the past. There were several large portraits, one of Lord Melbourne, Sir Henry Barclay, a former Governor, and a large one of that huge mountain of flesh, the late Sir John O’Shagnatty. As the rain had somewhat moderated we made a start “for home.” Miss Nuttal however preferred returning to the Ship “Ganges” having a sample about leaving a Miss Boodle (another passenger) alone by herself, and not being brought with her any of the paraphernalia of dress. I forgot to mention that at “Lunch at the Boarding House,” I found two Sydney people, one a Mr April Haviland who married a Miss [Budda? Kindsa?] who is a wonderful medium and wrote the poem “Dorothy” while in a trance, he too is a thorough believer in Spiritualism. The other person was my namesake, Digby Marsh, son of Colonel Marsh of the Royal Engineers, and cousin of Frederick Marsh of Wellington N.S.W. In the evening a still greater number of lodgers sat down to dinner, mostly young men, one the Doctor of the “Sorata.” Miss Gould, the Proprietoress has two adjoining houses which she rents. Posted letters from Grace for Fanny, Mrs M.H. Stephen, Marie, and George Pinnock and I sent one to Aunt Sophy and another to Fanny under cover of Wise. And in Melbourne I sent a registered letter to Milly with cheques inclosed for Mr Calvert, £6.11, a Newman Photograph £2.13.6.
Tuesday 16th December 1884
Had breakfast at 8.15. Very cold and occasional showers of rain. Grace writing to Milbourne and others. About 2 we went in to Melbourne, and drove to the Post Office, where Campbell Yorke, (who has been staying in Victoria some weeks or so) agreed to meet us at 1. He took us to the Melbourne Coffee Palace for lunch. He informed Grace, that he had made arrangements for taking a curacy in Melbourne, subject to the consent of the Bishop of Brisbane, in whose Diocese (Rockhampton) he now is. His own health, (when he means, Cecil’s health being, or likely to [?] hot wind prejudiced by the Queensland climate. I purchased Holman’s Liver [pad?] for Yorke, as he said he had for the first time suffered so much from sea sickness, when coming from Sydney, and which I had escaped from (I think) wearing one. Strolled a little about the town, and then Grace and Yorke walked to the Fitzroy Gardens, whilst I remained to have my hair cut at a shop near the Church of England Cathedral. The man who cut it, knew me, he reminded me that I had fined at the Water Police Court, some short time ago, for Sunday [thieving, drinking?]. Met Mrs A Cruickshank and her daughter, Jessie just outside the shop, they are going to New Zealand tomorrow at 12 o’clock. I went to Coles Book Shop afterwards but as it was coming on to rain, I returned to the lodgings about 5, Grace coming from her walk just at the same time.
After dinner at the lodgings Grace and I walked to the Oriental Hotel, in Collins St, not far from our lodgings to see Mrs Cruikshank and her daughter, stayed talking till nearly 11 o’clock. Agnes C, much annoyed at the extravagant charges a livery stable keeper has made for an afternoon drive (from 2 to 5.30) about the town, no less than £1.15! Ashley Moore ordered it for them. On going to bed found the bed room full of gas. Opened both the door and windows but without much advantage. Tried to sleep through it, but could not, eyes and tongues effected by tasting it as it were. Felt nervous about the possibility of an explosion, and danger to our health.
Heard Sir E. Strickland and John [Mann?] were both in Melbourne.
Wednesday 17th December 1884
Kept awake all night, owing to the escape of gas. One of the lodgers upstairs neglected to turn off the screw and our bedroom was filled with it, had to open the window all night. After breakfast took a cab, drove to the Agents of the ship and obtained a letter for Grace from T. Icely. Thence on in the direction of the Bishop and Deans residences near Fitzroy Gardens. On our way met Broderick of Sydney who made us turn back a few yards to see his wife who is staying with her daughter, Mrs Purves, the barrister, to whom Broderick introduced me. The house is a very handsome one, and furnished accordingly. I got out of the cab and walked a little way with Grace in the Fitzroy Gardens which is more noticeable for its shrubberies and trees than for its gardens. From hence we drove to the Yorke Diocese Registry Office, where we had agreed to meet Yorke at XI o’clock. He was very punctual as he was going to leave for Sydney by steamer at 12. I gave him the travelling bag I borrowed form Milly, and asked him to deliver it to Chris Russell on arrival in Sydney. We afterwards went to the Markets, a heavy shower made us undetermined where next to go but as the storm cleared away, we got in to an omnibus and drove to the Zoological Gardens, some little distance away, passing on the road there the University and Colleges on the right hand side, catching sight of the Exhibition Building, large Brewery &c &c. We were much pleased in walking through the Zoological Gardens, not only are the gardens themselves well kept, with numerous parterres with dozens[?] of flowers in full bloom scenting the atmosphere, but the animals seemed all choice ones, well fed and attended to. A magnificent Lion, Tiger, Panther, Leopard attracted our especial attention, the Ourangontang, Esquimaux dog, were next to this. We returned by 1 o’clock in a waggonette to Melbourne, had lunch at the Melbourne Coffee Palace, where we lunched with Yorke yesterday. And then walked about Bourke, Collins, Swanston, Elizabeth Streets. Purchased Christmas cards, and one or two books for light reading. Returned to Miss Gould’s lodgings ( Parliament Place, No.3, Bella Vista) packed up our boxes, paid the bill 16/- a day for two of us, and hired a waggonette to take us to the Pier at Williamstown where the “Ganges” was lying. The distance from Melbourne is nearly 10 miles. And the fare by train 9d each. We commenced on reaching the shop to change our cabin we had occupied amidship two berth cabin on Port side, nearly opposite the Engines, from the noise of which I suffered considerably and we were allowed to go into No.37, a 4 berth cabin, aft but which though far more roomy and comfortable was rendered also uncomfortable from the proximity to the screw, which caused us to feel the vibrating motion more than in the other cabin. We found it very cold today, on board a cold wind blowing from S.West.
Grace and I occupied in the evening writing letters for Sydney.
Landing and staying in Melbourne cost all together £5.10.
Thursday 18th December 1884
Sent the following letters off by the Postman who came on board to deliver letters, viz;
Lady Manning from Grace.
Lady Stephen from Grace with Christmas card.
Marie Russell from Grace.
Mrs Garvin from Grace with Photograph.
Mrs O’Brien from Grace with Christmas Card
Miss Campbell from Grace.
Milbourne, from Grace
Mrs Wise from Grace.
Mrs Wise from myself.
Milly from myself
S.F. Wise from myself.
Plunkett from myself with date of lease.
- McDonald from myself.
Mrs M.H. Stephen from myself with Christmas Card.
Jack from myself.
We did not leave our moorings till between 12 and 1 o’clock and a great many more passengers came on board for various ports. Amongst others Mr Fenwick, who is going as far as King George’s Sound, in his way to “Perth” where he has received a [home?] appointment of Harbour Master. Mr Fenwick was formerly in H.M.S. “Elio[?]” and subsequently Clerk in the [Emmigration, Transportation?] Office under Wise, and he has asked Grace and myself to call and see his father, Admiral Fenwick, on arrival in England. He sings and plays on the piano agreeably, and in the evening in the Music Hall, was the only one who sang. Miss Douglas played a few waltzes, and Miss Millat and Miss Boodle, lay on the benches, the former feeling headachy and having recourse to [Someling?] Salts.
After the ship had left Williamstown, the Steward delivered to us the following letters which had been sent by the Agents to the ship, too late however, to answer them.
1 from Milly to me.
1 from Fanny.
1 from Wise with inclosure.
1 from Griffiths (official) with £5 for Post Box.
1 from Mrs Donkin.
1 from Scholes milkman (receipt).
Amused tonight by Miss Millat satirically describing (to herself) the Captain as partly a Bacchus and partly a Cupid with a monkey jacket round him. The Captain’s rejoinder seemed to take for a fact, when he remarked that Cupid was very seldom represented with any clothes on!.
Friday 19th December 1884
Had a very rough night of it. Heavy swell on, off “Cape Otway” which we passed during the night, and the ship rolled from side to side all night long. Could not sleep and awoke this morning with great pain in back of head and nape of neck, could hardly turn my neck round from a feeling of stiffness, could not shave myself, and had to send for the ship’s Barber to shave me, ( a Lascar). Very few ladies at the breakfast table. Mrs and Miss McConnell, Miss Millat, Miss Boodle all suffering from mal-de-mer and those whose names I do not know. Miss Millat and Miss Boodle occupy the same cabin together now and at about 11,they came on deck, reclining in chairs, and [carried?] by Captain and Mr DeBuen, from one part of the deck to the other, withersoever they whims or caprices desired.
Lost my silver pencil case, and it must have tumbled out of my pocket I suppose and rolled along somewhere.
Saturday 20th December 1884
About 9 o’clock in the morning, we anchored in the Roadhead opposite “Glenelg” which is built on a very broad beautiful beach extending some distance, upon which carriages and horsemen were driving and riding along. The Pier too extended far into the sea and puts me in mind of the old Pier at Ryde. Many of the passengers with the Captain went on shore soon after arriving. Grace and I went off in the Tug about XI o’clock. The train left in about a quarter of an hour and we reached Adelaide in about 20 minutes. We walked to the Port Office and posted our letters.
1 to Fanny from Grace and myself.
1 to Milbourne from me.
1 to Griffiths inclosing the £5 he had sent me for Poor Box, W-
1 to Marie inclosing another to Chris.
1 to George Pinnock from Grace.
1 to Mrs Donkin.
1 to Dr Viyngdon[?]
1 to Mrs Dowling.
1 to A. McDonald (McDonald Smith esq.)
We then took a hansome cab, drove up King William St, then two smaller streets to a Coffee Palace where we had lunch, and at 1.15 took the same cab and drove to the Botanical Gardens. Got out and walked about, admiring the way the gardens were laid out, and how well kept under the supervision of a Dr Schonkey[?] (a German). The Greenhouses too appeared full of rare exotics. Adelaide is a pretty town, some of the public buildings, which are all concentrated in a large square are remarkably fine. And the trams, which are worked with horses appeared to me far preferable to those of Sydney worked with [horses, undes?] All the Banks are large, fine buildings, and one in particular “Bank of South Australia” a most admirable piece of architecture, Corinthian pillars introduced in every part of the building. The Hospital adjacent to the Botanic Gardens appeared to be a very handsome edifice, and several other public institutions along that line of road attacked attention. King William Street is a fine large wide street. Adelaide is built at the [front?] of a lofty range of hills, which act as a background to the town and looked at from seaward gives it a very pretty effect. There are two lines of Railway from the Pier to the Town, we went one way and returned the other, reaching the Pier on our return little before 4, where we found several of our fellow passengers, McConnell, Douglas, &c, also awaiting the Tug Boat to take us to the ship. Several other passengers came on board but whose names as yet, have not been made known. The day was beautifully fine, and much warmer then any we had experienced since leaving Sydney. Notwithstanding, I felt very unwell all day, having had a severe and sudden attack of pain in the kidneys, which rendered walking unpleasant. Had recourse to Dr Fischer’s medicines, which relieved me to a certain extent of the pain. Our pretty fellow passenger from Sydney (Miss Mallet) left the ship for good today, she is to remain in Adelaide till the arrival of the “Austral,” (Orient Line) from England, in which steamer she expects a young lady, who is coming out as her assistant, in the School or College at Ashfield, of which she is appointed Principal, and the Government of N.S. Wales. We met her in the tram from Glenelg to Adelaide where she got out with two other young lady friends, whom she did not introduce, but added as she left, in an offhand way, that she intended being at the Pier at 4 to bid adieu to the passengers, but we never saw her again! She is a perfect paradox, young, pretty, clever, sarcastic, seeking attention and getting it, and yet cold and heartless apparently. She says so herself, which at first I thought was merely ‘facon de parler’ on her part, but on further insight into her character, is, I fear, too painfully true. She does not look more than 24, and yet she has been chosen in England for the Head of College at Ashfield, at £300 a year. She had a similar offer to go to India at £600 a year but being consumptive her Doctors recommended her going to N.S. Wales instead. I should not be surprised at her turning Roman Catholic one of these days.
We sat down at the table at dinner about 50 people in all. One of the new comers, a lday, in the cabin next to our’s desperately ill, all night, from sea sickness.
The fare going to Glenelg in the Tug and back here 8/- for two
Left Glenelg about 5 o’clock pm.
Sunday 21st December 1884
Heavy sea on all last night. A head wind blowing, a good deal of rolling and some pitching. Neither of which seem to affect me, to my surprise! Number of passengers absent. Miss McConnell did not make her appearance all day, nor Mr McCutcheon.
At XI o’clock the Captain read the Morning Service in the cabin. About 20 people attending. The wind very cold and I went on deck for a short time. In consequence of the rolling of the Ship this morning, I was obliged to send for the Lascar Barber to shave me. The Captain at dinner amused Miss Boodle with a description of his wife’s “first attempt at making a task!” [tash?] And also with the examination he went through by the Medical Officer, preparatory to having his life assured, and who pronounced he had “too large a heart”!! The Captain of a facetious turn of mind, and in figure and face would not be a bad representative at a Faery Ball, of Henry VIII, or even “Blue Beard” at a Pantomime. He never the less read the Service uncommonly well, has a capital voice, admirable intonation, and properly emphasizes his words at the proper time and place. He is a sharp, clever man, has seen the World, good reader of character, and he knows a thing or two “as he could express himself, withal a kind hearted man I believe.
Monday 22nd December 1884
Very cold on deck, cold wind. Suffering much from pain in kidney, and pain in head and nape of neck. Too Dr Fischer’s medicine for kidney (No.2 Pulsatilea)
Tuesday 23rd December 1884
Very heavy sea, cold wind blowing, writing letters all day long.
I wrote to Fanny.
Wise (inclosing copy of letter to Plunkett)
Williams (Crown Solicitor, as to extension of Leave)
Plunkett (Under Secretary as to Leave.)
Grace wrote to Mrs O’Brien
Mrs James Manning
Mrs M.H. Stephen
So rough obliged to get Ship’s Barber (a Lascar) to shave me fro the third time.
Wednesday 24th December 1884
Reached King George Sound at about 9 o’clock a.m. and we applauded getting into smooth water after rolling about last night. After breakfast the Health Officer (Dr Rogers) came on board as a matter of form for our examination took place. And then the passengers, 3 young girls and their mother (Muir by name) left together with Fenwick who is going to Perth as Harbour Master there, and Woodcott who is going to inspect the Banks of Perth. We accompanied them on shore to Albany which is not more than a mile from where our ship “Ganges” lay. The names of the passengers were Mr Schwartz, Shaw, Miss Soloman, we landed at the Pier, and went straight to the Post Office and got stamps and posted our letters for Sydney, which will probably remain some time before an opportunity of a steamer coming in to forward them. I met on the way Mr Loftie who is Government Resident and P.M. at Albany. He introduced himself to me and to his wife and insisted on my lunching with him which I did, he is sending his son, Henry, a boy of 10 years old, to England for his education and under the immediate charge of Miss Brown (pronounced Brun) a lady who came out to Perth to look after some people [purpose?]. She lives in Western Australia, her brother is Chief Officer on board the P.O. vessel, [“Albany”?) is engaged to Miss Boodle in our ship. And Loftie told me her other brother, though he does not claim the title, is the present Baronet, Sir – Brown. Mr Loftie is worthy his name, a very tall man upwards of 6 foot 3 inches. And I like him much, a gentlemany, well mannered man, perfectly thrown away in such a little town as Albany is, with a population of only 1,000 inhabitants! His brother in England, a clergyman, was formerly lecturer at the Savoy Chapel, London and has written a great number of books of an Archeological character. One especially (in 2 volumes) on London. A great man on Heraldry, specimens of which while Government Resident, seeing I liked the sort of thing showed me, in which the Loftie family is traced from the times of one of the King Edwards. He bears the same arms, motto and crest as Lord [Acgurin?] Loftus, whose family (the Ely) is a younger branch, and when Lord Loftus, ancestor, was made Lord Chancellor and enobled, they changed their name of Loftie to Loftus. From being Government Resident, Mr Loftie keeps a sort of open house and entertains every one of any position, who calls is coming from or going to England in the different steamers. When the Flag Squadron went to Sydney some years ago, the young Princes spent a fortnight with him. And I believe in addition to his salary of £500 a year, he has lately been allowed an extra £100 a year for the expenses such [pricey?] entertainments as a cast upon him.
In addition to Miss Brown and young Loftie, two other passengers came on board from “Albany.” Miss Burley and Miss Sadler, the former connected with the Scholastic Institution at Perth (under the supervision of the Bishop) and a proficient in music and gold medalist besides. The latter, a Miss Sadler, has been a pupil Teacher in one of the schools Miss Burleigh has had the management of, and is going to Germany (being clever though only 17) to study and finish her education in Germany.
We did not leave the Roadstead at Albany which is a very land locked harbour till nearly 5 having had more cargo in the shape of wool and tin. The weather was fine but cold with a strong wind blowing, which together with the roughness of the sea, caused us to ship much water when going in the Tug boat from the ship to the Pier.
In the evening the ladies were practicing chants and hymns on the Harmonium in the Saloon, to prepare themselves for tomorrow’s Christmas services.
Miss Burley has only been 6 months from England, and is now unexpectedly returning there. She was engaged for 3 years to be at the head of a Government Educational Department, but on the voyage out from England, met a Doctor on board who is a resident of India, she became engaged to him, hence her contract with the Perth Authorities came to an end, though I understand, not without some considerable sum of money being given to absolve her from the agreement she had entered into. She appears clever, and is evidently one of the ‘advanced progress women” of the day. Has a Certificate of Merit from the Academy of Middlesex, London.
Posted all the letters Grace and I wrote yesterday at the Post Office, Albany, this morning.
Paid 2.4 postage
Thursday 25th December 1884
Christmas Day. We had a very disturbed night of it last night. Ship rolling much. Still cold and windy. I sat on deck however in the day time with two great coats on and rug wrapped round me. Had service at 11, read by the Captain, and the young ladies formed themselves with the aid of Mr and Mrs Bowen, into a capital choir.
The Saloon was decorated with evergreens and numbers of flags and “Union Jacks.”
The Captain gave us a capital dinner and a large cake covered with sugar, more like a wedding cake, surmounted with a good effigy of Father Christmas. As dessert was finished, I asked permission of the Captain to propose a Toast, he not knowing what to was coming. I therefore rose and said to the ladies and gentlemen, That on a festive occasion like the present where everyone was enjoying a happy Christmas, that I felt it incumbent on me to rise and propose the health of our Entertainer, who had provided us with so much comfort and [music?] throughout the voyage. And with much pleasure would ask one and all to drink to the health of Captain Andrews, whom I trusted would live long to command the good ship “Ganges.”
The Captain’s health was then drunk with music and honours “he is a jolly good fellow” &c. and then he returned thanks [amus—ly?] but adding that the Company and Purser were the chief persons to be thanked for whatever good arrangement had been carried out.
In the evening dancing on the Quarter deck, (Miss Brown and Miss [Mumans?] playing) Miss Sadler and Mr Schwartz, Mr Conlan and Miss McConnell, Miss Douglas and Frenchman, Mr Grunow and Miss Boodle dancing. The gentlemen subscribed 2/6 each to give the Stewards a Christmas Box, and Grace and Mrs McConnell went round and got 1/- each from the ladies for the 2 stewards (in all £1)
Spoke to Mrs Conlan for first time. Her husband (in a Bank) has some affliction of the eyes, and he is going home to consult some [dentis?] in London. She was a Miss McLachlan of Melbourne, who was a partner of Firebrace, Mrs James Manning’s brother. She knows the Manning family well, and used to go to Lady Manning’s tennis parties when she was last in Sydney.
Still taking Dr Fischer’s medicine for kidneys No.2
Friday 26th December 1884
A much quieter night. I slept better and had less pain in nape of neck and kidneys. Sat on deck from after breakfast till ¼ to 1, then lunched.
There is a Mr Cooper who comes from New Zealand, and is on his way to India. He is a bit of an artist, and has been sketching the different people on board, (in colour) he was so like in look, tone of voice, and person, dress &c that I thought he must be a brother of the man who married Miss [Moes?] and today I asked him the question, and he said that he was, I asked him if his brother had been in New Zealand and he said yes, and as a last question I put it to him direct, whether his brother has been divorced from his wife, which he said was the case. I asked him what was her maiden name, he said “Winter,” and her father he believed lived in Melbourne.
The Steward who attends our bedroom found my silver pencil case, which I lost some days ago.
Taking Dr Fischer’s medicine No.1. for kidneys.
Saturday 27th December 1884
Getting into a warmer latitude. All the portholes of Saloon open. Left off my overcoat. Mrs Bray (wife of the Chief Secretary of Adelaide) made her first appearance at dinner today.
In the evening music and singing in the Music Hall. A Miss King who has been very unwell lately played and sang excellently one of her [says?] Tennyson Brook. Mr and Mrs Bowen also sang a duet. And the Captain several songs, which as he has a good voice were much applauded.
Made the acquaintance of Mr Addington for the first time today. He is a son, I believe, of Lord Sidmouth, and is on his way to India to join his Regiment, the 61st.He is returning from New Zealand where he has been paying a visit to his brother who is settled there, and leaves the ship at “Colombo.” He tells me he is well acquainted with Admiral Sir Antony and Lady [Hawkins?] who are some connection of his, and that his younger brother went out in H.M.S. [Wanderer? Wantrereme?] as a Midshipman and used to stay at the Hoskin’s house in Musgrave St, Sydney.
Sunday 28th December 1884
Much warmer, thermometer 75º. Lovely day, and the sea much smoother, and its colour reflected from the blue skies above very beautiful. Flying fish make their appearance. Left off my warm coats and the other gentlemen passengers put on their white suits and white hats. All the ports in the ship wide open to admit of the air. At X.30 the crew were mustered Poop, and the Lascars in their colored habitiments and refined countenances and figures looked most picturesque. At XI the Captain read the morning service, much enhanced by the effective choir that had been so suddenly improvised. Miss McConnell at the Harmonium and Mr, Mrs Bowen, Miss King, Miss Burley, Miss Sadler, Mr Schwartz, Miss Brown, composed the singers. Some of the 2nd Class passengers attended and I dare say there were 40 or 50 persons composing the congregation. The scene would have made an interesting photograph.
Felt somewhat better today so far as the pain in my kidneys went. But my knees, ankles, and joints felt stiff and uncomfortable and a feeling of great fullness in the head. Taking No.3 medicine, prescribed by Dr Fischer (Banyglotis).
Grace not well either, complaining the last few days. And is taking alternatively [Nasc?] Vormica and Sulphur, in accordance with directions in the Book I got from Dr Fischer.
As I sit in the Cuddy or Saloon, now writing at 8.30pm I cannot help noting what a handsome room it is, large enough to seat at dinner 130 or 140 people, fitted up in the medieval style, and the effect of being lighted with 15 oil lamps is admirable.
Monday 29th December 1884
Very warm. Thermometer rising 77º degrees. Reading the “French King of the court of George 2nd”. Playe backgammon this evening with Mrs McConnell. The young people rehearsing the two plays they are to perform on Friday.
Music and singing in the evening in the Music Hall. Miss King the chief vocalist.
Taking Dr Fischer’s medicine No.3 for the kidneys. Decidedly better, but feel a numbness in back still. Great fullness about head on awaking.
“Punkahs” at dinner time introduced for the first time. The first time I ever saw them worked.
Tuesday 30th December 1884
Ship going 13 knots an hour. Thermometer 84.º Very warm and all the passengers nearly in summer attire.
We have our port holes open day and night since Sunday. Taking Dr Fischer’s medicine No.3. Feel better as far as pain in kidneys is concerned.
Had a game of chess with Grunow (the Captain[?]) neither he (he said) nor I had played the game for 30 years.
Young Loftie complaining of being unwell. Late dinner and Lobster cutlets are not the thing for small boys. Miss Burley and I had a long talk about books &c.
Wednesday 31st December 1884
Made 306 miles today, the best run yet make. Last night was insufferably warm. Could not sleep for the intensity of the heat. Grace and I “took tea” with Mrs Conran:- this “taking tea” is a peculiar kind of institution on board of ship. You ask, or your friend ask, half a dozen passengers to come to take tea at a separate table in Saloon at 4 o’clock in the afternoon. You possibly have a private supply of tea, a tea pot and a few cups and saucers. If not then Steward supplies them, and you then get a few of the passengers to gather round you, drink a couple of cups of tea and talk for half an hour or so, and then return on deck to read, lie down, or talk with the rest of passengers: it is a sort of “playing at giving a party” or perhaps, it may be better likened to a lot of little girls drinking tea out of baby cups and saucers. It is etiquette to invite the those that have invited you, to this - - “entertainment” at your table. So that the farce is carried on indefinitely, as ever [?] to the end of the voyage or till the private supply of tea is exhausted.
This evening being the end of the year 1884, was celebrations, by some of the passengers getting up which was called an “Exhibition of Mrs [Savoy’s?]” wax work figures.” And at 8.30 a sort of Theatre was marked off, by the suspension of various flags, forming the drop scene as it were and lamps put in front as “footlights.”
Mr Bowen acted as the showman, and did his part cleverly. Miss Pope represented the Sewing Madames, Mr Conran, being very tall, Chang the Chinese Giant, Mr [Wenz?] (the Frenchman) a Maori Chief. Mr McCutcheon a Gens D’arme. Miss Douglas Mother [Pigat’s?] Sortez [Syness?]. Miss MacConnell ‘Little Bo Peep.’
They were all supposed to be inanimate wax works figures but which moved by mechanism, it was supposed, and therefore had to be “wound up,” and this duty fellto the showman’s boy, young Arthur Douglas. After the Exhibition had been gone through, there were repeated calls for an “Encore,” and after a while the curtain was raised and the showman, appealed to our pity pointing out that all his valueable collection (owing to the heat) had melted away and that therefore he was sorry to say he was unable to give the audience “a repetition” of the scene.
The different actors in the “Exhibition” has slipped away in the mean time, and joined the rest of the passengers on deck and joined in the dances which followed. Polkas and Waltzs. I went to bed at XI. But the rest of the passengers kept up the old year until the new one was ushered in at 12pm overhead my cabin, I could hear the music of Sir Roger de Coverly, and the beats of the feet on deck. And a little time after I understand some of the Stewards and 2nd class passengers came aft, drawing behind them, (and addressing the Captain for some time)the figure of a man laid in a coffin, symbolical of the dead year, which they threw overboard. They then in procession marched back to the forward part of the ship, and a second time returned in similar procession, bringing with them a newborn baby, symbolical of the birth of a new year. I understand I was well and cleverly devised.
Thursday 1st January 1885
Another good day’s run, 300 miles. About lunch time the sea, which has been very smooth the last few days, became rough, or there was a much greater swell, which caused the ship to pitch. Clouds too are gathering round, so that it will not be surprising if we get rain soon.
I heard today there was another lady passenger who has not yet made her appearance on deck or at the table, has her meals taken to her in her cabin, and takes exercise at “peep of day” on the Hurricane deck. She is a widow, and some say her husband was Purser on board the “Sutley,” and that she is now engaged to our Purser of the “Ganges.” Mrs Boyle, and that she has £1500 a year. Mrs Boyle says £8,000. After writing this she passed through the Saloon, a stout, pale faced, plain looking woman of about 40 years of age, and dressed in deep black minus, however, a widow’s cap! The lines, “fat, fair and forty are most applicable to her!
Friday 2nd January 1885
Clouds gathering, sea rough, ports screwed down, cabins very warm. Thermometer 83 to 84 during the mornings. The young people who are going to act in the plays, “Pillicoddy” and the “Dumb Belle” are nervously anxious as to whether the weather will improve or get worse.
Had not much appetite today. Feet and ankles much swollen. Early this morning light squalls of rain fell, which drove some (who were sleeping on deck) below. Just before lunch, more frequent and heavier storms of rain fell. A change of wind and a head sea, and towards 8 o’clock a regular downpour, which lasted all the night and completely prevented the Theatricals taking place. Notwithstanding, the place had been fitted up on deck by ship’s carpenter, as a Theatre, and all the ladies were dressed ready for the performance. Some suggested performing in the Saloon, it was, however, decided to postpone the Entertainment till tomorrow.
Grace had a party at 4 o’clock, the McConnells, Miss Brown, Miss Boodle, Mr Addington, Mr Schwarz, Mr McCutcheon and young Loftie.
We only ran 276 miles today.
Weather so warm, with all the Ports closed, that several ladies had their beds made up in the after Saloon, on tables and on floor.
Saturday 3rd January 1885
Weather cleared and enabled us to have our Ports opened again, giving more light and air. I felt very unwell, pain in bones, giddiness in head, numbness at back about the region of the kidneys. Commenced again taking Dr Fischer’s medicine No.1.
Mr Bowen told me today that Mr Bray who has been Chief Secretary of Adelaide for 3 years is likely to be knighted on his arrival in England on accordance to political services. He is a very popular man there and has represented one constituency for 10 years. He is a Solicitor by profession. Mr Bowen, who gave me this information, is an intelligent young man, and clever besides, a native of Adelaide; sings well and is the moving [spiner?] or the Chief of the Theatricals to take place, the life and soul of the whole affair. I gather from his conversation that he is in business (perhaps an importer of goods).
At 8 o’clock we were all summoned on deck by the ringing of the Bell, and a few minutes after the curtain (several curtains from the cabin doors taken for the occasion) of the little Theatre was drawn not up, but on one side; and Mr Schwarz 9in evening Costume, read a sort of Prologue written in verse, by the 2nd Officer Mr Davis. The first play was “Little Pillicoddy” and the following was the cast of characters.
Mr Pillicoddy – Mr Brown.
Captain O’Scuttle – Mr Bray
Mrs Pillicoddy – Miss Boodle
Mrs O’Scuttle – Miss Burleigh
Sarah (servant girl) – Miss Sadler
In the 2nd play which was called “The Dumb Belle”
Henry Vivian – Mr Schwarz
Mr Manvers – Mr Cooper
Phelia O’Smirk (Valet) – Mr McCutcheon
Eliza – Miss McConnell
Mary (servant) – Miss Douglas
Stage Manager - Dr Egan
The first piece was the most amusing, and kept one in a perpetual roar of laughter: Mr Pillicoddy married a widow whose first husband was supposed to be drowned, who Pillicoddy believes has suddenly turned up to claim Mrs Pillicoddy, in the shape of Captain O’Scuttle the brother of the drowned man, whose wife is indignant and jealous, that she leaves him, and he is in search of her when Pillicoddy and he meet at the same house, where the denouement takes place. Miss Boodle as Mrs Pillicoddy looked remarkably handsome and well dressed. Miss Sadler was [memotable?] as Sarah the servant girl. In the second piece Henry Vivian, a young officer has been half inclined to marry Eliza, but as she is talkative he writes to say that he should prefer to marry one who is “comparatively dumb.” So Eliza shams to have suddenly become both deaf and dumb and he has to converse through a speaking trumpet which is trying to the lover, and makes him recant. Eliza acted her part extremely well.
Sunday 4th January 1885
Pouring rain nearly all day. Service held at Xi o’clock and a strong effective choir formed today, perhaps the best we shall have. In fact it will be necessarily weakened by next Sunday, owing to the many leaving at Colombo tomorrow. Miss McConnell played the Harmonium, Mr and Mrs Bowen, Miss Brown, Miss Burleigh, Miss Salder, Miss Solomon. Mr Schwarz and the Captain (who read prayers) were the singers.
Writing several letters today to Fanny, Milly and Addison, which Grace did likewise to Philip Pinnock, Fanny and Marie (with journal inclosed) which I intend posting tomorrow, as we hope to reach (early) “Colombo” in the morning.
Monday 5th January 1885
A fine morning, but we had a rather rough night, with sea rolling. Early land seen, and at 8 o’clock, “Colombo” (in the Island of Ceylon) was very distinct. “Adams Peak,” a high mountain, in the distance completely overtopping the rest of the coastline. The difference in the appearance of the trees, nothing but long stemmed cocoa nut trees and the peculiar greenness of the sea, sowed we had changed our clime, if not our natures. The long break walls near which the Ganges was to be placed was and this feature is the scene, and then Pitchboat, half whale boat, half pike boat, manned by an almost naked crew of Cingalese and Tammils, the former a handsome sleek copper skinned people, the others dark as negroes. Catamarans also swarmed about the ship trying to obtain passengers for the shore. We had breakfast as usual at 9, and in about half an hour several of the passengers prepared to land, some to spy out the place, others to re-embark in the P.& O. Company’s Steamer “Messalia” lying a few cable lengths from us. Of this number Mr Addington, Mr Schwarz, Mr Wendz, Mr Shaw, Mr Cooper and Mrs Solomon were for the “Messalia” for India. Mr and Mrs Bowen were going to remain in Colombo for some time, also Mr Gronow (the Austrian) and Mr de Burn (the electrician and Frenchman). Mr McCutcheon and Mr Hislop. We have thus lost ten, or eleven, of our passengers. The greatest loss will be the Bowens, who were so musical and good natured types. I understand Mrs Johnson [Solomon?] was a Bar-maid at Melbourne, which perhaps may account for her keeping herself aloof very much from the Lady passengers on board. As “coaling” (which is a most disagreeable process to go through or be endured) was about to take place almost immediately, it was necessary for those passengers who could afford it to seek refuge on shore as well as to indulge in sight seeing. Grace and I therefore, also the McConnells, Conrans, Miss Brown, and Miss Boodle, and Mr Stone and Mr Caldy, went on shore about 10, in a rough sort of steam launch which landed us on a pier next Customs House. We were soon surrounded with a troop of natives of all sizes and colours, and at first difficult to tell the sexes, for the young men of 14 or 15 are so delicately and gracefully formed, with fine eyes and an absence of hair about their faces, which makes them (particularly as they were long hair and turned up in a knot behind, like a woman) appears quite a feminine type of figure and faces, and a very pleasing type too. Some half a dozen at a time would seize one of our bags, another half dozen our umbrellas and sticks and in self defence we were obliged to hire one of them (Antony by name) who acted as our guide and warded off the rest of his fellows. We went to the Oriental Hotel, left our bags and baggage, and then with our Cingalese attendant, took a drive round about Ceylon. The carriage was a four wheeled one of peculiar built with hood to it, a sort of low humble dog cart holding 4. We drove to the Barracks, Gallegace Hotel, through the native village, Slave Island, for about an hour, and then returned to the Inn, as we had agreed to lunch together with Mr, Mrs Conran at ¼ to 1. We found two of our other passengers in the Coffee Room (Mr and Mrs Solomon) who were desirous of lunching at our table, so that when the Conrans came in we made 6 at the table. They gave us all sorts of dishes at lunch, but I did not care very much for any of them, and the fish (I don’t know it name) was in my opinion inedible. The room is a very spacious one with innumerable tables, all laid for customers; all the attendants are Cingalese and dressed in flowing white habitements and all the time we were at lunch, the Punkahs were kept continually pulled. At 1.30 the Conrans and ourselves in one carriage, and the Solomons in another started for the Railway Station, as we had determined to go to Kandy, about 80 miles by Railway. We then met the McConnells (who had been lunching with the Pattersons, he the Collector of Customs) and Douglas’s, and a Mr Hislop, another of our passengers. I was very tired before starting, suffering very much from pains in my head (the ‘occiput’[?]) and back which added to the heat of the day made me rather indisposed for sight seeing, however having paid my fare, getting Return tickets for Kandy and back to Colombo (for which I paid 15/-) for each of us) I was obliged to go. I nevertheless was delighted with the view from beginning to end, particularlary the last portion of the journey, just after making the ascent up the Hills. The railway it is said is the best laid lines in any part of the World, and being broad guage was much easier to travel on than those in Australia. We went seventy[?] over 11 miles an hour. This Railway was opened at the time Sir H. Robinson was Governor. The train was a lengthy one, and crowded, as people who had been passing their Christmas Holidays at Colombo were now returned to Kandy and the hill country. Kandy is situated about 1,000 feet above the sea, and is comparatively a healthy climate. But all the low lying parts suffer from Malaria, or rather did suffer once, before the country got cleared and cultivated as it is now. Indeed at the time of the making of the Railway about 20 years ago, which was made by Cingalese labor, alone, the mortality that occurred amongst the labourers was so great an exercise that the Government of the day studiously avoided letting it be known, in fact concealed the actual number of deaths, lest it might act as a deterrent to them undertaking similar employment.
The first station we came to after leaving Colombo was what is named Maradeena (Maradana) Junction, which occurred only 7 miles, the next stations were as follows-
13 stations in all. We reached Kandy about 6.15,just getting dark, sufficiently dark however, to distinguish the fire flys shooting from tree to tree in part of the Inn. We all intended going to the Queen Hotel, (of which a Mr A.H. Campbell is manager) and we accordingly got in to the carriage sent down by the Innkeeper to bring the passengers to his Inn. The distance from Railway to Inn about ¼ of a mile I suppose. After alighting we were surrounded by numbers of the Cingalese wishing to sell their different articles of merchandise to us, gems of all kinds, jewellery,[thank?],silver bangles, caps, tortoishell, sandal wood boxes &c &c. We all hurried past them, in search of a bedroom and some rest. Every one seemed to be inclined to adopt the motto “Everyone for himself.” We willingly were all housed or ‘rather bedroomed’ in due time. Ours had two beds in it, of very primitive manufacture, a dressing table, and looking glass. 1 chair. Of course the waiter and chambermen were natives and very polite as dinner did not take place till 7.30. I ordered some tea and bread butter as a stop gap. At dinner numbers of other persons were dining too, and as tomorrow is the first day of the Assizes here and at which the Chief Justice of the Colony is to preside, some of these people may have been either litigants, jurymen or others connected with the Courts.
There were several courses, but I can’t say I enjoyed my dinner and the fish was of the same tasteless [tribe?] that we partook of at Colombo.
After dinner we all retired to the Hall of the Inn where a numerous concourse of natives had ensconced themselves, and had opened out, on the floor, different goods for sale. First there was, or there were dealers in gems and jewellery, all kinds, Tortoise shell combes, Crepe shawls, caps for smokers, sticks of all kinds, necklaces gold and silver, card cases and boxes made of sandal wood, toys for children, and a thousand and one other nick nacks.
Mrs Conran bought 2 silver bracelets. Mrs McConnell, brass plate, mats &c &c. I looked at sapphires unset. One the vender asked me £8 for, but I told him I would not buy any till I had the advantage of daylight to look at it in. He then offered it to me for £5, then for £3, and then for £2. Some of the passengers went to the Buddhist Temples about half a mile away but as I found it necessitated my taking off my boots and going barefooted before “entering there,” I gave it up rather than catch a cold or cough. We all went to bed at about X.30, as we have to get up early tomorrow and have breakfast before taking the train back tomorrow which leaves at 7 o’clock in the morning.
I forgot to mention that shortly after our landing from the ship this morning I posted the following letters, and paid 5/6 for Postage Stamps.
1 from myself to Mrs Wise.
1 from myself to Milly
1 from myself to Addison
1 from Grace to Mrs Wise
1 from Grace to Marie (with journal)
1 from Grace to Philip Pinnock
I understand however there is no Mail going to Australia for the next 10 days or a fortnight.
I must enter my protest again at the numbers of Australians who have been at Colombo, and who have never alluded to it but in a passing remark, as it were, it is most astonishing that the beauties of the places, and the extreme difference of manners and customs that prevails, has never in my hearing been enlarged upon. Personally I would not have missed seeing this quaint town for a good deal. And as I first entered it, and saw the motley crowds coming towards me dressed in all the colors of the rainbow, and driving all sorts of vehicles, and animals the whole scene changing by fresh groups coming and then going away, without intermission I could not help contrasting what met my eye to the varied hues and patterns which as children, we were all apt to admire through the Kaleidoscope. Not a single European labourer was to be seen. Not a drunkard, not a vagrant, and the very antipodes of Sydney Larrikinism had it’s home here. It was refreshing to see the absence of loaders and swearers that continually annoy us in our part of the world.
The 102nd Regiment is stationed here, commanded by Col. [blank] and a Battery of Artillery under Col. Carey. I wonder if he is the Carey who was in Australia some years ago in the Artillery when Lovell was in command.
Tuesday 6th January 1885
Awoken by the Cingalese chamberman at a little after 5. I was however, quite awake hours before, as I had, owing to the hardness of the bed, no sleep. And I heard it also (lay before,) pouring with rain, “as I lay a thumbing” would not be a very pleasant accompaniment for a long journey. Had a wretched and hurried breakfast, and drove away in a pour of rain, from the Inn, reaching the Railway in time for the 7 o’clock train to Colombo. Just as I got in the carriage box, the Cingalese again brought me the sapphire (as I supposed) which he offered me last night, at £8. He [pertineously?] pressed it on me, and in hopes of getting rid of him told him I had only half a sovereign with me, and that I could not give more, which to my surprise he at once consented to take, and he then exchanged our respective commodities with each other, he taking my half sovereign and I the ‘Sapphire.’ At least I hope it is a sapphire. Grace took up her seat in the Saloon carriage with the McConnells, Conrans and Douglas’s, and the Solomans in a carriage to themselves and I in one by myself but into which afterwards came, a planter (as it appeared to me) from the Courts, having left some place, his Bungalow or station,in the middle of the night to catch our train. He had been 17 years a resident of Ceylon and gave me much and interesting information about the different places as we passed by. Shortly after we left Kandy the rain ceased, and we had a beautiful view of the scenery the whole way down. I took particular notice of the rice fields (or as they are called here the Paddy fields) which everywhere met the eye, not only in the valleys underneath, but on the very ridges, and where too high to lay them and the water (as is their want,) cocoa plants, and in many places tea, for of late years the Coffee plants have been destroyed by some fungus that it did not pay to grow it, and so the tea plant has been successfully substituted, and has already obtained a name for itself. All through our journey, I was particularly struck at there being no fences or hedges or any apparent division of properties but my fellow traveler pointed out that all the Paddy fields were marked off in divisions of a sort of mud embankment of 1 foot by 1 foot wife and another thing remarkable was a native ploughing with a miserable little native bullock hardly bigger than a large Newfoundland, and with the one wooden plough of centuries ago invention. Another picture in the scene I caught and [?] was a set of [fern?] similar little bullock treading out the ear of the rice, being driven round and round in circle, then threshing the seed out, as the ancient Egyptians are represented to have done 4000 years ago. On our way my intelligent companion pointed out a well defined road at the foot of the valley, made by Col. Dawson of the Royal Engineers who died just as it was completed, and to whose memory has been erected a lofty monument visible as we passed the road in our carriage. The railway was almost superseded the use of the road, but which as far as I could see is beautifully made, not a rut visible and more like a road leading through a Park. Connected with this road there was a sort of Prophesy to the effect, that whenever a road connected Colombo to Kandy, that is Kandian King would cease to have power or influence and which prophesy literally came true I believe. On our road over the passes we came to a curious precipice, which we could look over some 3 or 400 feet, the wheels of the carriage apparently not being more than 6 or 7 inches from the edge of the precipice. And this point was called the “Sensation Rock”! In the distance we noticed two remarkable hills, o’looking[?] the rest, the Bible Rock and the Sentry Rock, both within sight at the same time. The Bible Rock was called so, not because of its being in any wise similar a shape to the Book, but simply that the name of the rock sounded something like
Bible and thence the conception[?] of the word.
We passed through several native villages, the people who were all owners of the property on which they lived, having their titles to their possessions duly registered. But at the same time paying a little of their produce with the Government or a sort of tax, which produce the Government sold on their behalf and then paid themselves. The whole of the native population appeared well fed and nourished and all gaily attired in the most lively colours and head dresses. Where ever you met them driving in their 2 bullock wagons covered with [pallen?] leaves or at their agricultural operations in the rice fields, or in the women’s washing grounds (where the washing is done by merely sorting the clothes and then beating the ground afterwards to get the water out) at all times and seasons, they appear beautifully clean in person and in dress, the front hair fastened back by a circular tortoise shell comb, and the back hair rolled into a knot behind, their dresses draped gracefully across their shoulders after the fashion of the Greek maidens of old.
The Cingalese do not work for others as a general rule, what with the coconuts, rice (two crops a year) and other products they manage to raise enough for their immediate wants, and I should judge a very little went far, for through every village we passed we saw numbers lying on the ground in their verandahs doing nothing, but taking, I suppose, a siesta. They also plant and sell for forage the Guinea Grass which is an excellent horse feed. It is fortunate our visit was paid at this time of the year to Ceylon, which is now [tesured?] the Autumn time, the end of the North East Monsoon. We arrived at the Railway station at 11.15am and the Conrans and ourselves drove to the Oriental Hotel, where we were yesterday, and where Grace and I and Mrs McConnell, her daughter and Miss Douglas had a small breakfast consisting of tea, eggs and a bread butter for which we paid one shilling each. Grace and I then (with our Cingalese attendant) hired the 4 wheeled carriage again, and then drove to the Cinnamon Gardens, to the Museum which we inspected and with which we were deeply interested. Specimens of sharks of all kinds, one in particular called the Tiger Shark, with a mouth large enough to swallow two grown people at once, then the Saw Fish with teeth like a pit saw on both sides projecting from a sort of bone in shape like a flat ruler of about two feet long. Specimens of Butterflies, Moths of all kinds. Skeletons of animals, elephants, a huge wildboar, a huge stone pedestal 10 feet high representative of a Lion, a [fun legs?], and in which the throne of the ancient Kings is in the years 1100 to 1200 were placed. Altogether a most interesting collection and had there been time, we certainly would have like to have devoted many more hours, or even days, than we did. We then drove in another direction where apparently the wealthy people resided, as we passed large Bungalows, one after the other, in large gardens and shrubberies, and then past the Galle [fine, free?] Hospital, facing the sea, past the Barracks and Hospital and to the street in which the Tower and light house combined stand. And then shortly after to the Oriental Hotel, adjoining which, along a sort of arcade are the chief jewellers shops into which (Ismail and Co, 1 York St) we were with Mrs McConnell and Miss Douglas, and where we were shewn jewellery and gems of all kinds. Sapphires, Rubies, Diamonds, Pearls, Cats Eyes.
[in pencil at bottom of page - Arabi is –led near Colombo in consequence of several cases of cholera in Ceylon lately and now in the country.]
One Sapphire he, Ismail, brought out was worth £120, another catseye £90, and so on as to prices. We found the peculiarity of these dealers was, always to take less than asked in the first instance. I bought a sapphire pin for £1.10 for which the Dealer had asked £2.0. And a Cinnamon stone for £1.4 for which £1.15 was asked. We were perfectly tired with inspecting the contents of this man’s shop, and other jewellers seeing us come out of Ismail’s took us by the arm and insisted on our looking at their wares. However, we bought nothing more. At 4 o’clock we drove down to the jetty for the purpose of going on board as the ship was advertised to sail at 6. On reaching the vessel we beheld a most wretched sight, the awning drenched with water, and all the doors and windows of the Saloon and Cabin shut down, and the heat in consequence insufferable. The P. & O. Steamer “Nepaul” which was laying close to us and had just arrived from India, was sent on with the letters to England, and left, I understand, at 4 this afternoon. We saw, however, the “Missalia” leave her anchorage and steam out of Colombo for Bombay, India, our former fellow passengers, Mr Addiginton, Mr Schwartz, Mr Cooper, Mr Shaw were on deck and kept up cheering us as they departed.
Two new passengers have just come on board. I don’t know their names, but they look very like each other, as though mother and son. Felt very unwell all day, great pain in back of head, extending towards shoulders and which prevented my sleeping last night.
Wednesday 7th January 1885
Had afternoon tea with Miss Douglas, and just before Grace and I paid a visit to Mr Stone in his cabin as he wished to show us what things he had purchased at Colombo, but which consisted only of Tortoise shell manufacture.
Saw a vessel in sight about a mile or so to our West.
We made 220 miles from last night to 12 today.
It was so warm last night, as all the scuttles were fastened down, to prevent the sea from being shipped that numbers of the ladies had their beds placed on the ground in the afternoon saloon.
I find I spent exactly £8.4.6 at Colombo viz-
By Railway to Kandy and back £1.10.0
Expenses incurred at “Qeens Hotel, Kandy £1.2.0
Sapphires 10/- Cinnamon Stone £1.10 - £3.4.6
Hire of carriages -.9.-
Boat hire to and fro -.3.0
Played whist in the evening with McConnell, Douglas and Roderick.
Thursday 8th January 1885
Beautiful weather, ship going very steadily, sea particularly smooth and very blue. Last night we had all our Port holes open, so I had a comparatively good night and slept well.
Thermometer at Xam. Mr Boyle (the Purser’s) cabin 80 degrees. Felt much better today, my headache (which I have never been without) not so severe as usual, and particularly, also much improved.
Saw by the European Mail of 12 December (which McConnell got at Colombo) that the J.B.Watts, Knox’s &c leave England in the P. & O. S. “Parramatte” on the 15th January inst.
Made 306 miles up to today. Heard today that Dr Egan (the ship’s Doctor) had proposed to Miss Douglas, and a conclave of married women were to hold a council today, to report on the desirability of the engagement, or otherwise. He is an Irishman, son of a clergyman, I understand, has a slight brogue, but is looked upon by the ladies as a very handsome young man. He reads the lessons very Sunday, when the Captain officiates and reads the morning service. And old Douglas knows nothing of what is going on!
Friday 9th January 1885
Ran 302 miles since yesterday. Thermometer [blank[. At request of Mr Stone, at X o’clock, I read a manuscript Journal, of a fellow passenger of his,(Mr Stone’s) who came out with him to Melbourne by the sailing ship “Sobram[?]” which arrived Melbourne on the 12th December. This person asked Mr Stone to take it back to England and deliver it to his friends there; for this reason and to save him postage, Mr Stone consented to be the bearer of it, provided he left it open, and having also the permission tor read it. Therefore, for the edification of his fellow passengers of the “Ganges” he proposed it being read publicly in the Saloon, which I did. The McConnells, Douglas’, Conrans, Solomons, the Cochrane’s (our new passengers) Rodericks, Miss Burleigh, Miss Sadler, Mr Stone, Mr Caley, Miss Brown, Mr Bray being present. It took me 1 ¼ hours to read it. I am sorry to say it was the most unedifying badly written journal I ever read. Besides being vulgarly expressed [exposed?] in some parts, evidently the man who wrote it is not a gentleman, and only indifferently educated. My audience however, were very attentive whilst it was being read, and thanked me one and all for having done so.
Played whist in the evening with Douglas, Roderick and McConnell, the latter my partner throughout. We were the losing players. Raining middle day, in consequence Port Holes on Starboard side closed, ours on the Port Side open all night as well as day. Drank tea with McConnell.
Saturday 10th January 1885
Lattitude 10º 23N
Longitude 61º 23 E
Ran 290 miles since yesterday.
A fine day, warm but cool breeze. A great swell and headwind, N.E Monsoon. Sea making the steamer roll and pitch, in consequence many of the passengers feeling “very queer,” even young Conran is lolling about the deck on a chair seemingly perfectly enchanted. Also Miss Boodle. Miss McConnell and King all more or less affected.
Thermoment 77º and 79º – steering house.
Took Dr Fischer’s medicine No.3
Played whist with Douglas, McConnell, and Roderick, the latter my partner and this time we were the winning party.
Sunday 11th January 1885
Latitude 11º.03 N
Longitude 56º.18. E
Ran 302 miles since yesterday.
Another fine day, our Ports still open, day and night, being on port side and starboard side having theirs shut.
Service at XI, read by the Captain. The choir consisted of Miss McConnell (at the Harmonium) Miss Burleigh, Miss Sadler, Miss Douglas, Miss Brown, Mrs Conran, Mr Cochran, and there were about 30 people present. Mr Stone strange to say rarely attends, he is one of the Plymouth Brethren and though strict in some of his notions, and I believe a very good man, yet does not countenance the Church of England service. The Captain complaining of being unwell at dinner time, cold and feverish, Miss Boodle dosed him with homeopathic mixture/complain. About 20 drops. Eastward bound steamer seen about 8 o’clock pm. Last night, about 9, the engine was stopped as the machinery was getting heated, it was said.
Took Dr Fischer’s Medicine No.3.
Monday 12th January 1885
Lovely morning. Early passed the Island of Socotra about 20 miles distant, but plainly visible. The hills are upwards of 4656 feet, that is the highest peak; the island is about 70 miles long by an average of 18 miles wide. The inhabitants a sort of Arab though very friendly. Cattle and sheep are to be found here. About X o’clock we passed another island Abd-al-Kuri; hills here about (the highest) 1537 feet. Distant from Socotra 57 miles, and about 50 miles from the African coast on the Eastward, which was visible. We shall in a few hours or so be entering the Gulf of Aden. The last land seen was Cape Guadafin on the African coast.
The temperature apparently much cooler today, 78º in steering house. Ran only 278 miles up to today. The young people on board are rehearsing on Hurricane deck, preparatory to acting charades, and Tableaux vivants in a day or two. So Mr Stone, Mr Caley and I who were sitting up there, had to retire, to allow them, the ladies, to be unobserved whilst reciting their parts. Another steamer seen, ahead of us. Awoke with very severe headache, attributable to eating ham yesterday at dinner.
We expect to reach “Aden” tomorrow night, to coal there, and then proceed on our journey again at X o’clock pm, so that it is questionable if we shall be able to land at all, and see the Tanks which it is said, are worth looking at, on account of their age.
The Captain did not make his appearance at breakfast though he is better, and sitting on deck, outside his cabin door. I am indebted for the information about “Socrata” and the coast, to the second Officer Mr Davis, who took me into the chart room and showed me the exact position on the charts kept there. By the bye I should mention that he, Mr Davis, has had the good fortune in his day (being and expert swimmer) of saving life, by rescuing at different times, 4 or 5 persons from drowning: the last time in the docks, in London, he had previously received the medal from the Humane Society, and now he has got the clasp, the highest honor that can be given. The “P. & O. Company” in addition, gave him 1 years seniority in the service as a sort of promotion. He is a manly fellow, and like all courageous men, thinks nothing of what he has done, as he puts it all down, as he says, “to his being a good swimmer, and that is all”! I understand that on the 2nd Officer devolves all the duty and responsibility of working and steering the ship her course, taking the observations &c.
In the afternoon we saw a large steamer ahead of us, about 14 miles away, ahead of us. Supposed to be the “Nepaul.” Later on we met another steamer, something like a collier but we could not distinguish her name or country, and there was no disposition either on her part or that of the “Ganges” to find out by signaling or otherwise. About the same time, to the East of us, a fast sailing large boat with [Lattern?] sails came in view about a mile distant, said to be a slave ship, and called a Dhow. Great shoals of Porpoise, playing about, about 1 mile away, and Mr Cochran informed us that just a little before he had seen a large monster of a fish, the like of which he had never witnessed, having an immense tail, exposed out of the water. We all tried to look at it, but the animal never again showed. Drank tea with Mrs Conran, who had the married people. The Douglas’ (Miss) entertaining the single ones. Played whist till 9.30 with McConnell, Douglas, and Roderick who was my partner again, we lost 4 points tonight. On deck a new sort of Swedish dance was introduced by Mrs Cochran, a sort of country dance to the time of “Sir Roger de Coverley.” After this waltzes, and the Lancers. I was induced to enter in to the fun of the Swedish dance, and also danced with Mrs Conran in the Lancers.
Mr Cochran also took another waltz and polka, which was introduced in Sydney year ago as the [Jijo?] Polka.
Taking Dr Fischer’s Medicine No.3
As we anticipated we entered the Gulf of Aden about 5 o’clock and shortly after lost sight of land. The last land we saw was Cape Quardafrie on the African Coast, to the East.
Tuesday 13th January 1885
The steamer which was ahead of us yesterday evening is now astern of us, she is supposed to be the “Nepaul.” She is 1000 horsepower less than the “Ganges,” and a smaller vessel, besides. Another muggy day, thermometer 79º in the steering room forward.
Ran 316 miles since yesterday. The Captain still unwell, was not at breakfast. Nor did he come into the Saloon the whole of yesterday.
I taking Dr Fischer’s remedy No.2. Pulsatilla.
The Captain made his appearance at Lunch today. I had a warm salt water bath; bathing my head with cold water before and after immersion.
Wrote from “Aden,” the following letters.
I, to Milly
Grace, to Marie
Grace to Fanny (a journal letter double)
The Captain advises that in addressing our letters to New South Wales, we should be careful in adding the word “Australia” upon every one of them, as otherwise the Post Office authorities (being foreigners) might forward them to some other part of the world, which might bear the name of Wales.
About 6 o’clock pm, in sight of “Aden,” and at 8 or thereabouts Pilot (Macalister) in his boat (manned by Arab sailors) came on board; we had previously thrown up blue lights, which were duly answered by the firing of a gun. About 8.30 we anchored near Light House or Light ship. The Agent of P&O Company came on board and some of the passengers went on shore in one of the many boats that were lying round us (Douglas and son, McConnell, Conran, Bray, his son and young Loftie) they returned about X after perambulating the place, and buying baskets and feathers. There was, they said, a Concert going on. I understand the 44th Regiment are quartered at this wretched looking place. I sent our letters (to Milly, Fanny and Marie) by the Pilot, not feeling well enough to go on shore. Paid 8d postage on the single ones, and ¼ on double ones to Fanny. Shortly after Pilot left numbers of the native Arabs, came on board to sell Ostrich feathers, they wanted in some instances £4, £3 and £2 for a set of 4 feathers. Some were white, some brown, a few of the ladies beat the sellers down to 15/- and £1, but like the Cingalese with their Gems, it is difficult to say whether the ladies or the Arabs got the best of the bargain. The Captain after they had been an hour or more trying to sell their feathers turned them very unceremoniously off the ship, and indirectly seemed, in loud tones, to censure the Officers and Quarter Master on duty, for letting them come on board. We passed and met several steamers before getting into Aden, and some hours after us, we saw the “Nepaul” whom we had left behind in the afternoon, come in and anchor within sight. Coaling commenced about 10 o’clock pm, which was not so disagreeable a process, as at “Colombo” as the coal was put through the porthole instead of being carried over the deck, begriming and blackening everything near.
Taking “Pulsatilla” Dr Fischer’s remedy No.2
Paid for wine £1, washing 2/8, Postage 2/4 (10/-)
Wednesday 14th January 1885
Not much sleep during the night, owing to the noise of putting the coal on board. The process was over by 5 am, when steam was got up and we started again on our travels: Aden, as we left it behind, looked like a huge black cinder of a mountain; we are now commencing to go through the Gulf of this name.
At X.30am came in sight of the Straits of Babel-el-Maudeh, which are not more than 2 ½ miles in width, from shore to shore, and the mid-channel through which ships are navigated not over a mile! The current too, is very strong, running 7 or 8 miles an hour, but with us. On one side of these Straits, on the East, is Babel Maudeh, which was once taken up and fortified by the French, but which they had to give up being barren and waterless, they purchased it form the Egyptian Government. On the other side, is the Island of Perim, in possession of the British, and on which stands a Light House, and on it also is stationed a few military, an Officer with a Sergeant and 10 privates. At and around “Perim” we saw no less than 3 wrecks. One the ship “Hutton,” a steamer, the first of the Anchor line, which was wrecked 18 months or 2 years ago. There now remains only half of her visible, the stern all gone. A few hundred yards, another vessel lies on the rocks, and which ship was wrecked a very short time ago, namely on Christmas Eve, the Officer on duty could not tell me her name. She is close in shore, and how or why she got into that position it is difficult to guess. Of the third vessel nothing but her masts appear, the hull under water.
The heat today very great. In coming down the companion steps from the Hurricane deck at 12 o’clock I could not keep my hands on the rails, so hot were they! The Straits we have just passed through are, I understand, what are called the “Smaller or Lesser Straits,” but those on the Westward of “Perim” are much wider and safer. A curious story is related of this “Island of Perim;” some time ago (perhaps years) the Admiral of an English Man-of-War, stationed at Suez, invited the officer of a French Man-of-war to dinner; conversation and wine flowed quickly and merrily when one of the French officers, “let out” the object of the Commander’s mission, ie, that they were about hoisting the Tricolor and going to take possession of the Island. The British commander, overheard the remark, and instantly called one of his officers, and ordered him at once to proceed to “Perim” and to hoist the British Ensign, which was accomplished and caused no little surprise and disappointment to the French on their subsequent arrival; finding they were out-generalled, it was then, it is said, they purchased this country, opposite “Perim” from the Egyptians, as before mentioned.
The distance from “Aden” to “Perim” is about 95 to 100 miles, and during this run and for some time after, land and high hills devoid of trees, or verdure (though prettily formed) met our gaze. After breakfast, passed, or rather met an outward bound steamer, said to be one of the Orient Line, the “Iberia” for Sydney. Hoisted colors to each other. McConnell obtained last night at “Aden” a Home news of the 26th December, giving the latest English intelligence.
Felt very unwell all day. I begin to question the advisability of taking Saltwater Baths, for I always appear worse the next day. Taking Dr Fischer’s remedy (No. 2 Pulsetilla)
About 5.30, towards sunset we came in sight on the Eastward, of the town of Mocha (or as it is spelt on the chart Mokka), built on the sea shore, at the foot of lofty hills; as the rays of the setting sun were reflected right upon it, we saw it to advantage. Through the glass we could distinctly see that it was comparatively a large size town, and three or four tall spires or chimeys overtopping the rest of the buildings were very visible. These spires looked at the distance we were off, (perhaps 20 or 30 miles) like the chimneys of some manufactory. After passing Mocha we met another large steamer going towards Aden. This Mocha was where the celebrated coffee used to be imported from, but of late years this industry ceased and coffee that is grown in these parts come some distance away to [?] of the country.
Played whist at 8 o’clock. McConnell, Roderick and Douglas. Roderick and I were partners and afterwards McConnell, but in each game I was on the winning side. Douglas was tired of being always on the losing side, and after 3 or 4 rubbers retired.
I then played at Napoleon for the first time, with Miss Boodle, Miss McConnell, and Miss Burleigh, the latter like myself, a novice at the game.
Went to be at X.30
Made 80 miles today from Aden.
January 15th 1885, Thursday
The sea (on awaking) as ‘smooth as glass’ and shortly after breakfast (for the first time since entering the Red Sea0 that it was for a time perfect red that is, streams of red came floating, which is to be accounted for by the fact of its colour being produced by sea weed of a reddish hue. Just as we were looking at and considering at it , a large steamer hove in sight, apparently a man of war painted white going towards Aden. The Captain says she is the Gunboat ordered by the Queensland Government. Hoisted our colours, British.
Read the “Tales of Sind,” (published by Thacker) and in which poems appear, versified, the tale about “Perim,” and how possession was obtained by the British of the Island; pretty much the same description as I have given already. Miss King, who has been more or less of an invalid very low and hysterical today, the Captain says, “thinking of her mother.” Passed another steamer about 12, going towards Aden.
Made 268 miles today.
Charades, and tableaux vivants at 8 o’clock tonight – Programme
Maria – Miss Douglas
Julia – Miss Burleigh
Father – Mr Bray
Man Servant – Douglas jun.
Doctor – Dr Egan Port
2nd Syllable (Man)
Aesthetic Sisters – Miss McConnell
Ditto – Miss Douglas
Ditto – Miss Boodle
Ditto – Miss Burleigh
Signorina Mancini – Miss Sadler
3rd Syllable (Toe)
Author - Mr Bray
Man Servant – Douglas Jun’
Beggar – Mr Conran
Jane – Miss Boodle
Arabella – Miss Sadler
Felix – Douglas jun’
Arthur – Mr Conran
Cinderella in 4 scenes
Grand Tragic Tableaux
Blue Beard and his wives
Blue Beard - Mr Bray
(with the (serangsturchan?) burrowed for the occasion)
The acting and the dresses were both admirable, and the dialogue (entirely written by Miss McConnell) was clever and witty. The scene of the “Aesthetic Sisters” was “realistic” in the extreme! And each young lady managed to “get herself up,” to the very highest “pitch of perfection,” each in her own style, looked captivating and bewitching. Miss Boodle with her long hair, let loose over her shoulders, was “simply attractive.” Miss McConnell with her musical voice, and nicely turned head and expressive-speaking eyes, merited a larger if not a World wide stage, to exhibit her histrionic talents upon.
Miss Sadler, full of humour and that naïveté of manner, peculiarly her own!
Miss Douglas (also with her hair down) attracted more eyes “than one!”
Mr Bray acted as though “to the manner bread.”
Dr Egan “as real as life.”
Whilst Mr Conran was made to look more handsome than ever, in his garb of a “Prince,” the dress evidently arranged and effectively put on, and pinned on, no doubt by the ‘lissome fingers’ of his ‘bright eyed’ wifes!
Young Douglas astonished the audience by his performance, and did justice to his early Preceptress (The Miss Mallet) who ‘drew him out’ on first arrival on ship board when only “an unsophisticated youth!”
Nor must I omit to mention the soulful Rebecca (young –‘s wife) whose first appearance in public, made quite a “page in his --.
After the place, our powers of admiration were again called into action, in witnessing the beautiful phospherence of the waters, (as far as the eye could reach) every one declaring that they had never seen it in such magnitude of such perfection before!
The sea still as smooth as ever, and as we have all our ports open on both sides every probability of a quiet night.
16th January 1885, Friday
Just 5 weeks today since we left Sydney! The sea, rather more disquieted then yesterday and the temperature already cooler. Before breakfast a steamer (one of the French messenger line) seen on her way to Australia. I did not see her myself. Miss Douglas’ birthday, 21 years of age today! Birthday cards placed by some unknown hand on her plate, at breakfast time, and some acrostie lines written by Mr Davis, the 2nd Officer who is a bit of a poet.
Ran – miles today
Saw after breakfast a steamer going towards Aden, of a very peculiar build, depressed, as it were, in the middle and her two opposite ends exactly similar, and therefore difficult to determine which was the stern or head of the vessel.
Reading the Life of the “Princess Alice.” I can’t say it interests me. There are and have been hundreds equally good and affectionable in all relations of life, and not for the adventurous circumstances of her being the daughter of a Queen would have passed away “unknown and unsung.”
At dinner Champagne and an iced plum cake introduced in honor of Miss Douglas’ birthday, who attained her 21st birthday today.
Played whist with Roderick, McConnell, and Douglas; McConnell and Roderick my partners alternately, and I again on the winning side, whilst Douglas always on the losing side. Mrs McConnell and Conran playing Backgammon. Miss McConnell hard at work at “Patience;” Mr Conran writing. Miss Sadler playing; Miss Burleigh writing and reading, the rest on deck.
Miss Douglas and her father had all (or nearly all) the passengers at tea in afternoon, except Mr and Mrs Rigby and Miss Robinson, who had tea by themselves in after saloon. They appear to keep by and to themselves. He Rigby, looks like a retired Innkeeper who was perhaps his own best customer. There is an evident desire on the part of the passengers to keep them at a distance.
17th January 1885, Saturday
A lovely day, the air fresh and invigorating. Saw a steamer shortly after breakfast going ‘Aden-wards’ and another one after lunch, a P&O Steamer , it was said to be the “Ancona” for Calcutta. About the same time land visible to the North Westward, on the Egyptian Coast, about 79 miles distant and called “Jable-Madi-la-Hamah.” The hills very distinct. We expect to see Dedalus Light house about dinner time. Ran 266 miles today, we are not hurrying, as the Captain does not wish to get in to ‘Suez’ before Monday morning.
The McConnells and Miss Brown and Miss Boodle busily engaged re-packing their trunks, to be in readiness to land at Suez, Monday. Mr Cockran exhibited 2 cases of Butterflies he got at Kandy, Ceylon, for which he paid only £1 and the skin of a Boa Constrictor, 10 feet 11 inches, for which he gave (blank).
Gave McConnell, at his request, a copy of my journal with account of the Charades and Tableaux vivants, which seemed to amuse him. Just as the Captain has stated, we came in sight of the Dadalus Light house, built on a shoal, as the dinner bell rang at 6 o’clock, the sun just setting. It was a most lovely sight, magnificent sunset, of a deep orange and crimson hue, and which sort of colour I never saw before, except in pictures representing Egyptian scenes. The light house stands as it were by itself, in advance of the line of hills named “Jabel-Mada-la-hamah” on the Nubian coast. The light house is supervised by the English, and two men formerly Quarter Masters in the P&O Service remain constantly resident, a third man remaining ashore and relieving one of the two every three months. The weather is now perfect, the sea smooth and all our portholes on both sides open.
18th January 1885, Sunday
Lovely weather, land visible on all sides. At 7 o’clock passed a steamer outward bound on our Portside, to the eastward, at 9.30, whilst at breakfast, great commotion on board arose, as it was announced that the P& O S. “Assam” bound to Bombay, was close to us; this being the ship on which Miss Brown’s brother (and Miss Boodle’s intended) is Chief Officer; every one nearly, made a rush to the side to see if he could be discerned. Rather a disappointment for Miss Boodle to be so near and not either of them to have the opportunity of meeting, or exchanging a word with each other! After breakfast, on going on deck saw two more steamers outward bound, one was a Dutch Ship, who hoisted her colours, going to Batavia. The other the “Knight of St. Patrick.” Also outward bound. Shortly after another large steamer, passed us, the “Duke of Buccleigh,” with Emigrants for Queensland, apparently a great number on board, and the poop crowded with women. On the East, the Coast of Sinai, now appeared with its well defined line of lofty hills, amongst which we looked for in vain, the “Mount Sinai” but no one could fix upon the exact locality, instead the Captain seemed to think it was not so lofty a mountain as the Range that met our view, and that it lay much further back. On our West was the Solante of Schianda, a perfectly barren rock, without a morsel of verdure, but notwithstanding as the sun shone brightly upon it, was a most picturesque object, particularly as the indentations and irregularity formed outlines gave it a rather imposing character.
During the night, or rather about 3am, we passed the Island “The Brother” lying mid channel and at 5.30 saw Ras Charib Light house on the West, and on the East, the same range of hills, on the Sinai Coast, the highest of which is the surprise of all (even the Captain) one capped with snow, and which gave to the air a coolness not before felt. This range of hills must be very lofty, for “Mt Sinai” is marked on the chart as being 7450 feet high.
After lunch came in sight of the Light house called (Ashrip?) 140 feet, built of iron.
Passed the afternoon in Dr Davis’ cabin, the 2nd Officers and with him also Mr Chichester, the 3rd Officer).
Saw the new moon just as we went to dinner at 6 o’clock, the wind changing just at this time, and blowing strongly Southerly.
The Doctor (Egan) read prayers in place of Captain, Miss McConnell (on the Harmonium) and Miss Benleigh, Mrs Sadler, Miss Douglas, Miss Soloman, Miss Brown and Mr Conran forming the choir, about 30 person being the congregation, of a collection in aid of the Seaman’s fund made, Plate carried round by Mr Bray, and £5.10 collected.
The Doctor ordered me a hot mutton chop for lunch every day.
Ran 260 miles today. Thermometer 72.°
Felt very unwell all day, particularly in afternoon. I had (yesterday and this morning been taking Dr Fischer’s medicine No.4, for functionary and prostration, changed it and have been taking No.3, “The main remedy.”
18th January 1885, Monday
About 3 or 4 o’clock in the morning came to anchor at Suez, very great change in Atmosphere from heat to cold. Thermometer only 64. Shortly after we arrived the P&O Nepaul (which left Colombo a few hours before we sailed) came in and anchored near us, previously to her coming in saw a Russian Man of War get under weigh, she had just come through the canal. After breakfast the McConnells, Miss Brown and Miss Boodle, also young Loftice, left in an open sail boat for “Suez” en route to Cairo.
Got a Home News of 9th January 1885.
The Douglas’, Conran, and Bray also accompanied them, intending to return by 1 o’clock. Suez is only a short distance away, quite visible, but owing to the shoal lying between it and the ship, the boats have to go round a long way and so increase the distance thereby. Saw several ships, as we lay at anchor, coming out of the Canal, in fact we could not enter until they had all come out, one a large Man of War, painted white, an iron clad turret ship of 8,000 tons, which anchored near us, H.M.S. Agamemnon, bond to China, to protect British interests during the French and Chinese disputes. A Spaniard came on board with photographs, I purchased 6/- worth.
Mr Stone purchased 12 doz or more, for which the Spaniard tells me he only gave £4, and that he had received 15 dozen and that he was a great loser, so much so that he offered Mr Stone to give him back his £4 if he would let him have his photographs back again, which he refused to do. I cannot understand this as Mr Stone appears a man of extreme rectitude. Saw 8 or 9 ships besides the ‘Agamemnon’ coming through the Canal, two of them were French Men of War, also bound to China.
Some time after lunch the sailing boat returned with the Ganges passengers who had left in the morning in the arab boat, namely Conran, Bray, the Douglas’, Mr and Mrs Rigney and baby, Miss Robinson and Miss Soloman. As the sea and the wind had risen since morning they had rather a wet and rough sail back, but the Arabs managed their boats cleverly in bringing alongside the ship. The Captain had previously sent a Steam Launch to pick them up at “Suez,” but as she returned without them, the Captain seemed put out at the possibility of being detained by their delay. However they came back in very good time, for the Pilot (a foreigner) did not take charge of our ship till 4 o’clock p.m., and we did not enter the Canal till 4.30. The passengers who went to Suez, though they managed to get donkeys to ride, could not get any thing to eat, and returned to the ship very hungry. Mrs Rigney had, I understand, a fall from her donkey.
The Reverend Mr Strange who has been stationed between Port Said and Suez for the last 2 ½ years in his clerical capacity, came on board in order to return to his home at Port Said, and he is a gentlemany pleasant and – young man.
I felt very unwell all night, great pains in back of neck, extending to right shoulder, with twitch in joints, fingers and toes, and altogether ill, otherwise, I should have felt inclined to go on shore at Suez. At 5.30 the “Ganges” was brought to a stand still and made fast to posts fixed on the ground on one side of Canal about 7 miles from Suez. No ships go faster than 4 or 5 miles an hour and are not allowed to travel after dark
19th January 1885, Tuesday
In bed nearly all day, with a most excruciating head ache, or rather pains in nape of neck extending to left shoulder, throbbing on top of head, side of head and forehead, in fact pain charging from one spot to the other that not diminishing in force or acuteness: all day long, this continued, the glands of the neck on both sides appear considerably swollen. Took “Pulsatilla” 3 times during the day, and towards 8 o’clock pm, I felt somewhat relieved and got up for a couple of hours, though having a very bruised sensation about the neck and head and a slight feeling of nausea.
We left our mooring this morning about 6 o’clock, we had barely come last evening, about 7 miles from Suez. In the course of the day, I saw through my Port Hole, the Steamer “Essez” which we passed as she lay fastened to her moorings; shortly after we met the Dutch ship “Prince Henrico” of Amsterdam on boar of which appeared many passengers of a very pleasing type of face. Shortly after another passenger ship, the “Clan Cameron” of Glasgow. There were many others I understand but being in my bed they escaped my notice. There was also seen in the distance the Palace built for the Khedive at (blank) and also the house for the Empress Eugenie when she came to these parts for the purpose of inaugurating the opening of the Suez Canal.
About 5.30 pm just as the light was disappearing, we came again to an anchor or rather the ship was moored by cables fastened to posts fixed deeply into the banks on shore.
We passed several stations and saw several half lame young Egyptians running along the banks of the Canal begging for money. Some one on board threw them a penny, which had been inserted in a potatoe, to facilitate the throwing it, but on reaching the land, the penny must have slipped out, and the indignation of the little Egyptians on finding that there was nothing in it, was great in the extreme, venting his passion by beating himself with his hat, or head dress, and not any of them wear anything but a sort of huge looking night cap on their heads, and something like a monk’s cowl. The scenery (or rather there is no scenery) is dreary in the extreme. Steaming between sand banks, the whole live long day, and wondering how it is that the Canal has not long since been filled up by the drift sand caused by natural gravitation as well as by wind against the possibility of which no safeguards appear to the casual observer to have been taken. The Purser (Mr Boyle) informed me of the great and sudden change of tempuratures the last few days (the day before yesterday) the Thermometer in the cabin then was 84°, and to night only 60°, a difference of 24 degrees!
20th January 1885, Wednesday
We left our ‘moorings’ (a few miles beyond Kantara) about 6 o’clock a.m., the first ship we met today in the Canal outward bound was the “Winchester” and shortly after the P&O Steamer “Chusan” bound for Bombay, and in her the Duke of Connaught, the Captain says, is expected to return to England. She is a new ship with all the modern improvements, having electric lights &c. Apparently a great number of nice looking passengers in her. And from the conversation that passed between our Captain and theirs, we learn that she had met with very severe and cold weather since leaving England. Not very cheery news for us just entering it. Another vessel we met was the (blank).
On going on deck after breakfast three strange lights met our view, first the ‘mirage’ of land and water being apparently visible, next the thousands and thousands of Flamingos which at a distance looks like large regiments of soldiers, clad in white and extended in single file. And lastly numbers of tufts of (which looked like) grass with sticks rising out of them, and placed in straight lines one after the other, the Captain asked us all to guess what we thought them to be, but of course no one was able to answer; according to the Captain they are placed there by the Egyptians for the purpose of catching Quail, as after a long flight they get weary on the wing, and are thus attracted by these artificial mounds of grass and rest there, at night time the natives go out with nets in their hands and easily capture them, whilst comfortably ensconced in their nests.
About 7 o’clock a.m. we passed a building on the banks of the Canal, which we saw was an ‘Hotel’ kept by a Frenchman ‘De Conti,’ by name, and at about 8, to a large dredging machine, somewhere in this neighbourhood tradition assigns the place where Joseph was sold by his brothers.
I understand that the Canal duties are very excessive, this ship the ‘Ganges’ (of 4,000 tons) will have to pay £1,400 and for each passenger the pay at the rate of 11/- per head, but this is inclusive of the £1,400. The English Man of War, the “Agamemnon” with her large complement of man, of 8,000 tonnage, must have had a very large Bill to pay I imagine, by the bye I hear she had, owing to her size, great difficulty coming through the Canal, it took her six days and as her beam was upwards of 68 feet and the width of the Canal only a few feet wider the risk was great, so great indeed that I understand the Commander does not intend his return to go through the Canal.
Arrived at Port Said at 11.30 followed shortly after by our companion de voyage the ‘Nepaul.’ Alongside of us lay a Russian Man of War, two Frenchmen, and one Turkish Man of War ahead of us. Immediately we anchored (boats?) with Egyptian labourers came alongside and commenced loading us with coal. We had lunch at 1, and then several of the passengers, the Douglas’ Conrans, Brays, Solomans and ourselves were taken to the shore only a few hundred yards off, in a ferry boat, for which 3d each was charged. Mr Caley asked if he might accompany us and made up our party. We saw Conran with young Bray and little Roddick riding donkeys about the town. I purchased a Fez cap from one of the shops for 3/- and a (horchel, parcel?) for 2/-. We were surrounded by Egyptian lads who insisted on cleaning my boots, one of them seized one leg and the other the other leg and I had to give them 1d each before I was released. We walked through the different streets, what they called the ‘fruit market.’ The oranges are said to be very good and of an oval shape. We met people of all nationalities, Egyptian, Arabs, Spaniards, French, Greeks, Turks, &c Several of them in the public streets in front of the Inns, well seated at tables playing dice, dominoes and draughts and one set of men Backgammon. A little further on in a part of an open shop quite in the corner, I saw a native school, all boys, about 40, in about a space of 10 feet square all seated on their haunches and apparently learning to write, as they had paper before them, each boy kept swinging his body to and fro’, all the time. Most of the women were muffled up, so that nothing but their eyes were seen, many of these appeared to suffer or to have suffered from ophthalmia. We walked to the ‘garden of Lesseps’ on the side of which is built an Hotel called the ‘Hotel Lesseps.’ In the middle an orchestra is built and this evening the Band from the Russian Man of War was preparing to play there for the edification of the residents. We saw the shop for the sale of Persian carpets, of a – colors and designs, prices ranging from £9 to £25, at least those were the sums named for those shown us. The owner a foreigner I could not determine of what country, only white, even as we walked away without buying.
At 4 o’clock we were all on board, and shortly after we left Port Said dipping our flag to the different Men of War as we passed them, the Russian answer was very slow in returning the compliment and the Officers in charge had to call out to his men once or twice before he succeeded in making them carry out his orders, clearly contrasting with the discipline of an English Man of War! As we left the harbour I was struck (though not formally) with a sort of breakwater composed of large loose stone pited one in the other without any seeming order or regularity, the stair appeared at the distance we were of 5 or 6 feet long by 4 feet in depth, and gave one the idea from their being so carelessly thrown a each other of great weakness, and the possibility of their being washed away in he event of any tempestuous weather or rough seas breaking upon them. After proceeding some miles away and towards sunset, and just after entering the Mediterranean sea, we found a great swell meeting us, as though it had been blowing some days or so before.
I forgot to mention that Mr Stone left the ship shortly after we arrived at the wharf, with the Reverend Mr Strange, who is the Clergyman, C of E, stationed at Port Said, a sort of Missionary to the sailors, who frequent this port. Mr Strange took him to his house, gave him lunch, introduced him to his wife, and then walked with him round the town, showing him the ‘Lions(?)’ of the place. One of interest was the school where the boys were being taught to read out of the Koran, he also took him to what is called “Araby Town,” which was burnt down not long ago, and where the inhabitants are living in tents, rather than put up permanent buildings as heretofore, because the Pasha of the place wishes to exact from each person who so erected a house a sum of £(blank), which they were too poor and had not the inclination to pay. On Mr Stone’s return to the vessel, he was somewhat vexed to find that a letter had been sent him (I presume from England) to await his arrival here, had actually reached the ship, had been put on his plate at lunch, but being absent did not see it, and it cannot now be found by the Steward who put in on the table at lunch time. He seems to take the matter much more unconcernedly than I should.
22nd January 1885, Thursday
Felt much better today. The sea rather rough last night, though the weather is beautiful but cool. Many of the passengers feel ill again, Mrs Bray and her son were unable to be at dinner or indeed at any meal. I went on deck till 12.30 with great coat and Railway rug wrapped round me. The pitching of the ship made me feel rather headachy. The Thermometer in Mr Drayton’s cabin today 64°, but on deck I have no doubt it would be less.
I tried a remedy last night for the pain in neck and back of head, recommended by Miss Barleigh as good for neuralgia pains called “Bay-Rum” a few drops on flannel and applied to the part affected, had a most soothing beneficial effect and I note the remedy now in order on my return to Australia that I may get a supply of this medicine.
In the evening played whist with Douglas, Bray and Roddick, the latter my partner and in getting up from the table after several rubbers found we were the winners, on the whole by one point.
After breakfast in the distance a steamer going Easterly, and on our West a sailing ship going in the same direction.
Stayed on deck for a considerable time before lunch and dinner time, but felt it too cold afterwards to venture out of the saloon.
Ran 204 miles today up to 12.
23rd January 1885, Friday
Exactly 6 weeks today, since we left Sydney, thought the time has passed pleasantly and we have visited many places of interest on the way, yet these past weeks appear like months contrary to the personal acceptance of them, that time passes quickly when spent pleasantly.
Very rough tumbling sea on today, the worst we have had during the voyage, as yet whilst reading on deck just after breakfast, a sea leapt right over towards the stern and wet several of us, more or less. And on going to one’s cabin, I was disgusted to see that the port hole had been left open, and the same sea had entered and had fallen on our bed bunks, and portmanteaus, and wetted the photographs I got at Port Said the other day. Several other seas before lunch came over the sides of the vessel, and I fear this is but the prelude of what we may expect to experience in the ‘Bay of Biscay’ so deftly described in the song I once heard the celebrated “Brohan” sing, nearly 50 years ago! “as we lay on that day &c.”
Last night Grace was very much disturbed (I did not hear this) by the rats running over and about the cabin, over her head, and gnawing away on some of our goods and chattels. I fear there is a whole family of them near the midship cabins.
Just had lunch, 2 o’clock p.m. The sea still continues to dash up against the port holes darkening the saloon for the time being. Very few of the Ladies on deck, the only one who seems to brave the ‘Battle of the breeze.” Is Mrs Cochran (spelt without an ‘e’) she is walking up and down now bidding defiance to the elements. She is a great traveler, travelling with her son for the benefit of his health which has been much impaired by an attack of fever and ague contracted not very long ago. I must not forget to purchase the book he recommended for my perusal. Thermometer in Mr Douglas’ cabin today 63°, and the ship made 274 miles.
24th January 1885, Saturday
My birthday 66 years old today.
The sea very rough last night, a gale of wind blowing and that a head wind besides, all which circumstances combined rendered the ship very uneasy, and prevented our making more than 6 knots an hour during the night. The Captain holding that a greater speed in such a ‘rumbling’ sea (as he expressed it) might endanger the screw. Not much sleep during the night, notwithstanding awoke without the usual pain in neck and head, and went on deck immediately after breakfast till lunch at 1 o’clock. Mrs Conran who changed her cabin last night, on account of the noise of the screw, did not make her appearance today, nor Mrs Bray, who was absent also yesterday, nor Miss King. We only ran 176 miles today, and it is questionable (as we have 290 miles more to do) if we shall reach Malta before tomorrow evening at 5 o’clock.
Played whist tonight, with Douglas, Bray and Broddick, the latter my partner, and on getting up from the card table we were, on the whole winners by one point only.
25th January 1885, Sunday
Pouring rain all day long, and a great mist on the waters, the fog horn going constantly. After breakfast about 9.30 we saw the P&O steamer “Parramatta” on her way to Australia. It was too rainy and cloudy to distinguish people on board, but the “Ganges” and herself dipped flags to each other. On this steamer (we saw by a late English paper of 9th inst, that) the J.B. Watts, Knoses and others we knew were passengers by her. About ½ past 1 o’clock, we arrived at Malta, and here the Douglas’ (Father, daughter and son) left us, as he intends remaining for a fortnight, and then going by degrees overland to England, fearing to enter suddenly upon an English winter. They went away in a pour of rain, and at the same time some of the other passengers went on shore to spy out the land, the Brays, (though Mrs Bray has been laid up the last 3 days) Rigney’s Mr Cayley, Miss Barley’s nurse Sadler &c. The Captain about an hour after went in his own boat on shore, taking with him under his charge Miss King and no else, they also went in a pour of rain. The decks were crowded with itinerant vendors of Maltese lace, and silver jewelery, cameos, fruit &c. Grace purchased a Lace handkerchief 7/- and some mittens, 4/-. I a Cameo Bracelet 6/- which the fellow asked me 2 for in the first instance. Grace wrote to Marie, (double letter) postage 8d or 1/-. I wrote to Milly 4 or 6d, Grace wrote to Mrs Stovin (Storm?) (England) 2 ½, in answer to hers received today. Total 12 ½.
Gave Conran the letters to post as he purposes going on shore presently, but the rain continuing gave them to the Barman. Some one from Valetta, the capital of Malta, informed the Captain that a telegram from England had been received at the Union Club in Malta, to the effect that some portion of the House of Commons and half of the white Tower of London had been blown up, by dynamite and 5 lives lost!!
I suppose on the Captain’s return from shore this report will be confirmed or otherwise. I did not like to go on shore myself on account of the rain, and fearing exposure to cold.
There was no service on board today. The Captain I suppose being on the alert always, when entering a port. Miss Burleigh however, for an hour or more, was at the Harmonium, and accompanied the singers, Miss Sadler, Miss Douglas who had not then left, Miss Pope, Conran and Cochran, in singing different hymns. Grace received a letter from Mrs Stovin of 13th January, from London, saying she had heard from both of us from Sydney that we were on our way home, and also from Mrs Marden.
We ran, I believe 290 miles today. The sea was comparatively smooth last night and the wind in our favor, which gave us a quiet night, and enabled us to sleep more comfortably.
Purchased 1 dozen lemons from one of the fruit seller who came on board for six pence (6d)!
The Captain and Miss King returned in time for dinner but the other passengers did not for a long time afterwards, indeed Miss Burleigh and Miss Sadler, who were by themselves were longer delayed by the Boatmen and carriage drivers, quarreling about the excessive fares they wanted, actually laying hand upon them to try and get what money they had upon them. Miss Sadler on arrival on board was drenched by the rain and the seas shipped when in the boat, and quite hysterical from the treatment she had received on shore.
A new passenger, a Mr Hall (a Clergyman) came on board, he only came to Malta in the “Parramatta” which arrived on Saturday, and as he came merely for the sea voyage, which has done him good, he continues it for his health by return to England with us. He tells me he is a cousin of Foster, (the former Minister of Justice) of Sydney, and also related to De Salis M.L.C. He is one of the Curates at Whitechapel.
Mr Conran purchased £8 worth of Maltese Lace from the hawkers who came on board and several others of the passengers bought from them too. It is very questionable whether the Coaling will commence today after all. The latter having been busily engaged the last few days loading several of the P&O steamers, and are much fatigued. In addition to this I believe they do not like working in the wet, and another excuse is there is some festival of the Church going in “Citta Vecechia,” which attracts many there. Time, however, will tell! The rain towards night somewhat abated and hopes are entertained of having a fine day tomorrow, for sight seeing on Malta. I am not particularly struck with the Maltese lace, much less with their silver jewelery and cameos, the gems purchased at Colombo much more tempting in my eyes. I think Ladies talk themselves into the belief that dresses trimmed with this lace is becoming.
26th January 1885, Monday
We had breakfast somewhat earlier today at 8.30, and at 9 Grace and I went over in a small boat (also Stone, Caley and Hall) and were rowed to shore, a very short distance from the ship, for which we were charged 6d each. We then hired a 4 wheeled one horse carriage, a famous little horse it was, driven by a Maltese ‘jawey,’ alongside of whom sat a guide or Dragoman (perfectly self appointed) but whose presence we tacitly submitted to. We made an agreement for the carriage at 2/6 an hour, which was exactly 1/6 an hour more than we should have been asked, indeed I find that 6/- a day is the maximum rate.. We were first driven to “4 King & Co,” agents for the ship, where I put my name down in the visitors book, as having passed through Malta en route to England. We were afterwards taken to St John’s Cathedral which we entered and were shown through it by an old grisly bearded attendant, as a guide, but of this more hereafter. “Malta” I find was successively possessed (centuries ago) by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, afterwards under Arab Rule. Then came French and German sovereigns, then the “Knights of St John,” (and the Great Siege). The decay of that Order, and the surrender of Malta to Napoleon Buonaparte with afterwards the capitulation of General Vaubois and in 1814, war once more broke out, and by the 7th Article of the “Treaty of Paris” it was declared that Malta should appertain to the King of England. Malta itself (not including the other islands of Gozo, Comino and Comminotto) is 17 ¼ miles long by 9 ½ broad. The city is built on a hill called “Mount Sceberras” formerly the property of a family of that name. One half is on only bare rock, and only one half under cultivation, and it is supposed by some to have formed one large island, or else formed part of Europe or Africa, if not of both. It is also thought the name of Phoenician origin, and derived from the same root as the Hebrew word “Malet,” signifying “refuge” or “Asylum.” It is beyond doubt the Egyptians had formerly settlements here, from the Sarcophagi discovered there in later years, Malta for several centuries formed part of the Eastern Roman or Byzantine Empire.
I said just now that we were taken by our guide to St John’s Cathedral, as the first point of interest. It is called, I found, the “Church of St John,” the first stone of which was laid in 1573 and in 1578 was sufficiently far advanced for consecration. On entering one is struck with amazement at the magnificence everywhere displayed, is of an oblong form, 178 feet long, the height to centre of roof 68 feet or more. The walls were inlaid with green marble between 1663 and 1680, the corridors date from 1735. The Church consists of a Choir, Nave, and two side aisles, the latter divided into side chapels, one of which was assigned to each of the various languages of the Order (St John) by the first general Chapter, in the year 1664. The pavement is composed of 400 richly inlaid marble slabs, a sort of mosaic, commemorating many famous members of the Order, having many quaint emblems and appropriate epitaphs. The paintings on the roof are most effective, the work of master painters. (the Calabrese) who came to Malta in 1661, and resided in the town till his death in 1699, during the whole of which time he was engaged in adorning and beautifying the Convent and Church. He refused to receive payment, whereupon the Order gave him the rank of Commander. He is buried here and his portrait is in the sacristy. The roof is divided into 7 zones. The alter is formed of rich marbles and is surmounted by a group representing the Crucifixion by Alcardi of Bologne. The large picture behind the alter by Michael Angelo de Caravaggio. He in 1608 came to Malta to paint the roof of the Church, and was knighted by the Grant Master.
In the “Oratory” are kept the splendid tapestries presented to the Church by the Grand Master Pisellos at a cost of 6000. These tapestries were executed in Brussels by the firm of St De Vos, and form part of the decorations of the Church on St John’s day, from the festival of Corpus Christi, to that of S.S. Peter and Paul and from Christmas day to the Epiphany; this part of the Church and the tapestries in question, is seldom shown, but on my telling my guide that I was a “Cavallieri,” and was a “Knight of the Iron Crown” duly appointed by Humberto, the King of Italy, it was soon buzzed about, and permission was soon after received for me to visit the corridor and tapestry, on entering we found that all the tapestry was, as the scenery at theatres is, on rollers and had to be let down seriation for our inspection. Some of them, however, were under repair, and others had been repaired. On this room or corridor we saw some thirty (30) young girls who were hard at work playing their needles, repairing portions and working new squares of canvas to be inserted in the old Tapestry. The Instructors unfortunately could only speak Italian, but I learnt that he had been sent over from Italy to instruct these girls, and they seemed very apt and able pupils for their work appeared as well executed as the beautiful old Tapestry of 200 year ago. We did not see the Library, which we were told was worth seeing, but we were taken to what is called the “Governor’s Palace” surrounded by four of the principal streets. One of its courts is called “Prince Alfred’s Court” in honor of the first visit of the Duke of Edinburgh, in 1850, who planted a Norfolk Island there, which flourishes most luxuriantly. There is a ground marble stair case erected in 1866, with board steps, the floors of the corridors are inlaid with various colored marbles. The walls of the Council Chambers and other parts are adorned with frescoes. Along the corridors are ranged figures of Knight and men at arms in full armour with escutcheons on their shields. And upon the walls, are (pesares?) but the costly tapestries, 22 in number about 15 feet square crowded with colossal figures representing scenery in India, Africa and South America, and those purchased from the firm of J.De Vos of Brussels. In the armoury 253 feet long by 38 board, are the old colors of the Malta Regiment. The Lions Axe, of Dragut the famous Algerine Corsair who held command during the siege of 1565. The suit of armour, formerly worn by the Grand Master – Wignacourt who must have been 7 feet in height, his helmet weighing 37 lbs, a perfect giant in size. At the back of the staircase is the State Carriage of the last Grand Master, which is said to have been used by Mr Buonoparte (when in Malta) in a state occasion and when he was designated ‘First Consul’ it is in a wonderful state of preservation! From the Palace we walked to some high fortifications, overlooking the most precipitous abyss, protected however, by an iron railing to prevent accidents; from this point a beautiful panoramic view presented itself, of the surrounding fortifications and inlets of the Harbour. I find that this place is called the “Gardens” of the “Upper Brracca,” where an Annual Flower show is held, the tomb of Sir Thomas Maitland is in the centre. The “Baracca” was called the “Porta d’Italia,” and it is stated that a Prior of Messina roofed and greatly improved it in 1661 but in 1775 in consequence of the conspirators assembling here, the Grand Master ordered the removal of the roof. From the projecting gallery we looked over the open sea. Immediately below is the garden, called the Sultan’s Fort and as - - at which the Malta Fencibles Artillery are quartered. Fort St Angelo which has existed for 1000 years, is here seen to advantage.
At the other end of the “Baracca”, we look down into the yawning Gulf below! The most having been excavated by the Turkish captives. Thence we walked to the beautiful Opera House, the architect of which was a Mr Barry, I presume he who became afterwards Sir (blank) Barry, the Father of the Bishop of Sydney and Primate of Australia. The whole arrangement appears wonderfully complete. The Grand Staircase with it broad stone steps and the vestibule beautifully fitted up, with five or six tiers of Boxes. We heard some of the singers, about 7 or 8, rehearsing the Opera of “Fra Diavolo.” Many of their voices sounded well. The auditorium can contain I understand, upwards of 1200 people. The person who showed us round was so well dressed, and his manner so good that I presumed he must be one of the Members of the Company, or someone connected with the management and I never dreamt of (as I thought) insulting him by offering him any douceur in his politeness, but just as we were laving he addressed me, most politely “hoping that I would have him something to “drink my health and a prosperous voyage home,” which necessitated my handing him the magnificent sum of 1/- which he gratefully and gracefully acknowledged by raising his hat in right royal manner!! We had been informed by the Captain that the coaling would be finished by now, and that the ship would leave at 1, we were unable to visit the Catacombs (6 miles away) and therefore as “a make shift” drove to the Capuchin Monastery, on the way, where we were shown over their little Church, and ultimately guided by a taper held in the hand of a lay brother, to the crypt below. When all the lay members of the brotherhood in one part, a clear distinguished being made, and all their deceased Priests in another part, are affixed against the walls in a sort of cell standing upright having been as it were, after being in their coffins of upwards of a year, preserved entire, after the fashion of mummies. In some cases with particles of hair and teeth till visible, and the hands in perfect preservation, though of course the skin was all shriveled. We had to hurry and then immediately drove down to the wharf where the settlement with the driver took place, nothing could content him but 2/6 per hour, and I had to pay him 10/- and 4/- to the “Dragoman,” to whom I had at first offered 2/-, which to the Maltese is a large sum equal to ½ a week’s wages, but as he learnt indirectly from myself of my being a “Cavalieri” of the Order of the “Iron Crown.” And which piece of information he had used as a sort of “open sesame” to my viewing the old Tapestries, which we had just seen under repair, in the corridor, and which our guide had doubtless made use to gain our admitting, I felt it was incumbent on me to yield to his demand.
We returned to the ship in time for lunch and found all the rest of the passengers on board too, though we did not leave till 3.30pm. Three other passengers had come on board, Mr Woodhouse and his friend Mr Williams, and Lieutenant Hay R.N. who was formerly on board the H.M.S. “Pearl” in Sydney and was a constant companion of Dr Messer, the two always dining out together. He has just been in command of the Gunboat “Decoy” sometimes stationed on these waters, but she has been put out of commission and he (Hay) is on his way to Plymouth where his wife and children reside, now to be paid off. There is not much alteration in him since I first knew him nearly 11 years ago. We confirmed the story of the dynamite explosion at the Tower, and House of Commons, the telegram to that effect having come to the club (the Union Club), at Malta, when the subject was publicly known and discussed. Hay told me that what was considered far worse news, was that no tidings had come from (Sonaken?) about General Stewart’s troops, and that great apprehension for their safety was entertained and a further demand for more troops from England was being made.
Grace and I whilst walking in the town, Valetta, went to several shops where Lace and silver jewelry were sold. She managed to satisfy herself with another lace handkerchief, a silver brooch, and a pair of mittens, for which she gave 10/- in all. I bought a few photographs 5 at 8d each and 3 at 6d of the different places in Malta. The people we met with all day mostly Maltese, were very peculiar and strange, both in dress and appearance, their carts and vehicles too were “out of the common,” though their little horses were “good goers,” and in good condition, and well looked after. I observed a peculiarity in the way of harnessing, in every instance the back part of the Breeching came right up to the tail, touching the cropper, which would, with us (in 9 cases out of ten) have the effect of making the horse kick, but with them, their horses, very broken to it, they freed it out. The Maltese have primitive looking carts, generally drawn by a mule or a donkey, without blinkers. From the circumstances of Artillery and Regiments of the Line being quartered here, and men of war being in harbour, we saw officers, soldiers, and sailors moving about with civilians of all sorts and conditions, the uniforms contrasting in most instances, in others wearing a more extensive and larger sort of a “Sister of Charity” hood, and a long curtain attached thereto at the back, and hanging down behind below the waist.
(rest in pencil)
Forgot to mention silver gate at Church of St John, his golden ones stolen and taken away by Napoleon, which induced to paint the silver ones over so as to escape his observation and ethical(?) sense succeeded.
Statue of Louis Phillip’s brother the Duke of Ch—
Mosair picture of
As to Knights of Malta and the order of St John
Enquire Charle’s exhibited of Deed giving to Government of Malta to King, signed by Charles V.
Crypt of Church
Anniversary of the Coburg(?) what will it be 300 year hence?
(back to ink)
17th January 1885, Tuesday
Land seen early, the African coast still! After breakfast saw what is called the “Convict Island” Pentelleria” belonging to the Italian Government on which stands a lighthouse, and where the worst of criminal are sent. In former days there was a volcano, which had long ceased to be in eruption, there is now on the top, where the crater was, a large lake. About 10.30 a.m. we came abreast of Cape Bon(Qum?) in which there is also a Lighthouse, not long place there, and in the afternoon passed the Bay of Tunis in the distance, then the “Cam Rocks“ and skirted land which was visible as long as the light lasted. About dinner time the officer on watch sent word to the Captain that some island was observed. It was excessively cold on deck, and a heavy shower fell after lunch but did not last, as I went on deck afterwards. Made the acquaintance of one of the new passengers, who came on board yesterday, a Mr Woodhouse, he is a Solicitor, but is suffering from spinal affection, from over-worked brain, he was advised to take a sea voyage, and came to Malta a fortnight ago, by the “Chusan” and is obliged to again return so soon as his partner is, he says, 40 years older than himself and does not like leaving him to do the work alone. He says he has consulted (and recommended me to consult) the specialist for spinal complaints, Dr Lackson of London when all other Doctors give precedence and in him particular. He also says there is a man in Paris who ranks even higher than to Lackson in the profession.
In the course of conversation today whilst walking up and down the deck with Lieutenant Hay, he told me that Haly Hatchman who was formerly Private Secretary to Sir A Robinson in Sydney, is now Lieutenant Governor of Malta, the head of Civil Matters whereas the Governor in Chief is the Commander of the Forces and head of the military affairs.
Made 204 miles up to 12 o’clock today. Thermometer 58° on deck, and sea 59.°
28th January 1885, Wednesday
A most lovely day, sea very smooth and ship going 12 knots an hour. Passed “Gelita” Lighthouse, and were off “Cape Carbon(?)” at 1 o’clock skirting the Algerian coast all the afternoon, we saw some very high hills in the distance, covered with snow. They are called Mt Atlas. Up to 12 o’clock we had made 274 miles. Temperature about 59 on deck, a little higher than yesterday.
Went on deck after lunch and remained there till 4 o’clock, then drank tea with Mrs Conran. In the evening played whist with Bray. Lieutenant Hay, and Woodhouse, the latter my partner, got up a winner then Williams, a friend of Woodhouse travelling with him, cut in and I went out. Afterwards I ‘cut in’ and Bray went out and I had Lieutenant Hay in the first rubber and lost, next rubber partner with Woodhouse and won. On the whole lost nothing. Had to take ‘Sulphur’ 3 or 4 time during the day. Saw several steamers in the distance.
29th January 1885, Thursday
The sea a smooth as glass, and the ship going steadily. Awoke however, with pain in head and nape of neck, which felt stiff on turning one’s head round. The weather feels milder than ever, the Thermometer 57. Latitude 36 N and Longitude o.36 West.
We went 273 miles up to 12 o’clock today. Miss Pope has just informed me that curiosity prompted her to go below just now and visit the furnace (24h number) the Freezing room, &c., in going too near to the furnace, her forehead became quite scorched, in fact she has been literally ‘branded.’ She tells me she was taken there by the 2nd Office (Davis) towards whom she definitely shows a tendresse, extended to no other, notwithstanding she says, she is engaged and (i saw an engagement ring) and to be married in June next at Adelaide to some one there. She (like the rest of us) is keeping a diary, and his said 2nd Officers, in answer to her question about places and things, crams her with all sorts of miss-information which she readily gulps down, or writes down! She is a very good natured young woman, and has come on board with the Brays. Mr Bray’s sister Miss Bray (a middle aged person) met with an accident some short time ago, feel down two or three door steps, and broke her knee cap, divided it in fact, and has been obliged to lie down ever since, cannot stand, and is every day when fine, carried on deck by two of the Stewards on a long chair. Miss Pope is constantly in attendance upon her, and (I suppose) is either engaged as ‘Lady companion’ or maybe only as ‘ami de famille.’ However she devotes herself to the service of Miss Bray from morning to night. She seems a very tidy person, and I came to this conclusion not only from her dress, but from her writing desk which seemed, as she opened it, neatness itself inside and outside too!
Lunch is getting ready, and I must clean my writing material away. I heard the Captain and Mrs King in the ‘Music Saloon,’ up aloft, and that is another reason to put them away, as I cannot write and listen to music at same time talking of tendresse just now, there is a ‘double distilled’ essence of it displayed from ‘Captain to King,’ a most loyal devoted subject, he!!. The ladies have begun to notice this, and his want of attention or common politeness to them. Young girls are his hobby, or his weakness, hardly his fault, more his fortune, from having been so mentally formed and developed, as to have a power of resistance to the captivations of the sex! One old lady on board, is excessively indignant at the Captain’s scant courtesy towards her! But unfortunately has not been kind to her. So far as personal appearance is concerned indeed ‘au contraire’ but still the Captain as Captain should treat his ‘guests as it were’ for the time being, with respect, if not making love to them! And of course it is not possible for him to do that in this instance! The old lady (though old and unattractive) is still a Lady, and has cause of complaint!
In the evening played whist with Bray, Hay and Woodhouse, the latter my partner in the first two rubbers, in the last Bray and I. Got up a winner of 2/-. Paid for wine 3 bottles 7/6.
30th January 1855, Friday
We counted on having a fine day today and being enabled to visit Gibraltar on our arrival. Judge if our disappointment on finding on waking that it was pouring wit rain, with every prospect of its continuing. About 8 o’clock land was visible and by 9 we were anchored off Gibraltar. Numbers of ships of all kinds were at anchor, upwards of 50 I should think. Many of them flying the yellow Quarantine flag. Very few passengers went on shore on account of the rain, however, Mr and Mrs Conran, Mrs Cochran and her son in one boat, also Mr Stone and Messrs Hall, Woodhouse and Williams and Lieutenant Hay in another went, and were on shore for about 2 or 3 hours, returning in a pour of rain. Both Mrs Cochran and Mrs Conran seemed thoroughly drenched. Just before they returned a further influx of new passengers came on board, there young officers of H.M. 52nd Regiment now in Malta, going home on leave, a Mrs White and two children and a widow whose name I do not know yet, (Mrs Ajax?) A Miss Lyons, daughter of Lieutenant Colonel Lyons, and some others who I have not yet seen. Mrs White was escorted on board by Colonel Hackett of the Royal Artillery, he is Assistant Adjutant General stationed here, so I suppose Mrs White “belongs to the Army.” I heard from Hay that Captain (Narres?) who was in command of H.M.S. (blank) in Sydney is now the senior Naval Officer in the station, and that he has completely recovered his health which was much impaired when last I saw him in New South Wales.
Mr Stone got several photographs of Gibraltar, thought not by any means good ones; the one of Lord Heathfield, on a stone monument, I should have liked to have had, as he and my grandfather were years gone by on very friendly terms, and he, Lord Heathfield, attributed his success in defending Gibraltar to the (ass- ) timely information given him by my grandfather when stationed in Malaga, as it is a matter of history I am tempted presently to quote a letter from Lord Heathfield to him on the subject and an extract from a letter of Mr Wilmot, the Master of Chancery and head of the American (compensation crossed out) claims to Mr Pitt – dated 17th March 1790.
My Grandfather was H.B.M. Consul at Malaga from some years, (succeeded afterwards by a Mr Kirkpatrick, Grandfather of the Empress Eugenie, widow of Louse Napoleon). In a book which he, my Grandfather, had printed for private circulation in (blank) to show his services, he writes (to quote his own words) “Early in the year 1778 he (Mr Marsh) having well ground suspicions that Spain (notwithstanding the assurances given by that Court of not taking part in the War, which had commenced between England and France) meant to act hostilely, as soon as they could be prepared, and that Gibraltar wold be the first object of their operation, he procured from time to time, the best information in his power of what was secretly going forward, and communicated it to Lord Heathfield, then Commander in Chief of the Garrison, who transmitted the same to his Majesty’s Ministers, as appears by the following extract of one of his official letters (Lord Heathfield’s) to the then Secretary of State, Lord Viscount Weymouth, written in cipher and dated
Gibraltar 9th July 1778
I have all this from Mr Marsh, I beg your Lordships forgiveness once more reminding you of his (Mr Marsh’s) unremitting zeal and very useful exertions for his Majesty’s Service, which I hope will appear to you in such a light as may obtain for him, some mark of the Royal favour.
For upwards of a twelve month (my Grandfather adds) before hostilities broke out with Spain, in 1779, Mr Marsh had almost a daily correspondence with Lord Heathfield, and as the time of that war approached, he had reasons for fearing that public notice would have been taken of the frequency of messengers going from him (Mr Marsh) to the Garrison.
The following is a copy of an extract of a letter in cipher to Mr Marsh, received from Lord Grantham (Mendenfessandor?) at the Coast of Spain.
St Ildefonse 18 Sept 1775
It is with the greatest satisfaction I obey the instructions I have received to acquaint you that the punctual correspondence you have kept up with the Secretary of State, the Governors of Gibraltar, and myself, are looking upon as proofs of your great diligence for his Majesty’s service, and are considered at home, in a most favorable light. This communication gives me great pleasure.
Copy of letter from Lord Heathfield to Mr Marsh.
12 March 1790
Nothing can contribute more to the restoration of my health, that the interest my friends express for it, and their frequent enquiries, especially those which come from Mr Marsh, whose regard for the public service furnished me with the means, whilst we were together in the Mediterranean, of fruitfully discharging my duty in such a manner, as to draw from the (bounteous?) hand of my Gracious Sovereign, such honours and favours, as I cannot have the presumption to say were owing either to my zeal or talents alone. But if those affairs hence taken a right-turn, the success was entirely founded upon the excellent materials of early information and timely notice carefully transmitted to me from “Malaga,” for indeed to you, my dear friend, me and mine are such unexampled Royal favours We have been long enough acquainted, for you to be assured these declarations are sincere and without flattery: indeed my official correspondence with the King’s Ministers, in those times, will furnish testimonials of my unaffected veracity in these declarations, of the infinite obligations I was daily under to you, for carrying on the public service.
I have &c
John Marsh Esq
On the subject of Gibraltar my Grandfather also quotes an extract from a letter written by Mr Wilmot, a Master in Chancery, and at the head of the Commission of American) to Mr Pitt, under date
17th March 1790
I beg to assure you that I heard Lord Heathfield declare, a short time ago, that if it had not been for the vigilant conduct and early information of Mr Marsh, at that period, he doubted whether the Garrison of Gibraltar could at this time have belonged to the Crown of Great Britain.
The rain after leaving Gibraltar (which took place about 1o’clock just as we were going to lunch ) continued to come down in torrents and two or three hours after we were tumbling about in a heavy sea, which at night became worse.
Gibraltar or “Gib” as it is more familiarly known, is but a huge high rock. At the extreme southern point of the Spanish coast, and is not of any great extent, as within a distance of half a mile of it is what is called the Neutral Ground where that of Spain commences. The whole side of the hill, facing the Straits are filled with guns upwards of 400 in number, ready pointed, and about it altogether there are I understand 900 at different points. A few of the larger ones I believe are 100 ton guns, and at least there are no larger ones in the World, and is therefore a more foremidable natural fortress for ships to pass. So may be looked upon as the very legs of the Mediterranean. I understand from one of our new passengers (a military Doctor on his way home to pass his examinations as a Deputy Inspector General of Hospitals) that Gladstone had prepared at one time to yield up Gibraltar to the Spanish, as a sign of currying favour with them, but what was naturally scouted(?) by most Englishmen. We passed several places on our way out, opposite Gibraltar was Certa(?) at 3.30pm Zanfer came in site, belonging to the Spanish on the point, (the most Southerly in the European coast) a light house is erected.
I saw also in the distance the Coast of Morocco and on the Eastward the ‘Cerebos’ Straits, we then got into a very broken sea.
Played whist in the evening with Bray, Hay and Williams, on the whole I got up a loser of 2/-.
Young Thurston, of the 52nd Regiment gave me an interesting account of the Bullfights at (blank) 12 miles from Gibraltar, at one of which he saw upwards of 12,000 people, Ladies, Spanish and English, not objecting to witnessing the scene, which afterwards resulted in the death of the Matador, and always in numbers of horses being gored to death, which are allowed to lie on the ground till after the exhibition (the Bulls being killed) and then all the carcasses being thrown out of the Arena. The Matadors make about 800 to 1000 a year, and are the idols of the Spanish people, and are as much thought of as our Jockeys in England by the Racing fraternity. He also says his impressions were not so unfavourable and that it was devoid of that cruelty which before he witnessed it, he thought such a scene would present.
31st January 1885, Saturday
Passed a most wretched night owing to the rolling of the steamer, caused by the heavy swell from the Southward. Many of our old passengers, Mrs Cochran, and Mr and Mrs Conran, Miss King and Mrs Roddick, Mrs Bray were absent the whole day, in their cabins and nearly rolled out of our one. Mrs White and children, Mrs Ajar (the widow) Miss Lyons, and two of the young officers of the 52nd are also ill. The Doctor called in to attend the Ladies of the party, and has managed to put his hand into the glass shade of the lamp. The sea was terribly troubled, and as we passed St Vincent (on which a lighthouse stands) we could see the sea dashing up against the rocks (which are nearly 250 feet above the level of the sea) it was not a very chilling sight, a thick mist then lying on the waters. After lunch every preparation was made by the Captain for a coming storm, every thing on deck was strongly secured, huge ropes passed under the boats, in case of the sea crashing over them, all the hatches battened down, canvas over the skylight, boards at the side, and all moveable spars and chairs removed from the poop. The Captain, too looked serious, gave his orders sternly and noiselessly, and there was no need to ask him what he thought of the weather, his face the index of his thoughts. Lieutenant Hay asked him about the Barometer and he simply announced “satisfactory” and passed on. Though Mr Bray came down to the Saloon to have a game of whist at 8 o’clock, we could not find a 4th partner, Mr Williams said he was not ‘up to it’ and his friend Mr Woodhouse was laid up all day. So we had nothing but ‘talking.’ Mr Williams I understand, is a man of means merely travelling for pleasure, has been out to the Cape for the sport of shooting, also to Norway, a fact in what is vulgarly called a “Globe Trotter.” He and Hay gave Bray an myself the address of their tailors, hatters, and boot makers &c Williams tailors are “Bayers and Savage, I wonder whether the latter is the Savage that used to be in Sydney, and the man I committed for Bigamy. He strongly recommended us to visit some restaurant in Holborn (blank) where the best of dinners are served at a mere trifle and the rooms in which the tables are laid are particularly worth seeing, spacious and well managed &c. I forgot to mention that just before lunch and whilst in sight of Cape St.Vincent we passed very close to a Steamer apparently of about 1000 yards, she appeared to be laboring heavily, and occasionally as she pitched was entirely taken out of sight, owing to the immense waves which for that time buried her. Her engines appeared to have been placed quite astern, a rather objectionable place the Captain intimated to us. Obliged to employ the ship’s barber, to shave me (for the 4th time).
Thermometer 56° to 58°.
Ran 194 miles up to 12 today
I awoke this morning wit the same pains in head and neck extending to shoulders, application of cold (wulis?) to the head seems to relieve.
1st February 1885, Sunday
We had a most weary night again, last night, the pitching and rolling continued throughout, things in the cabin breaking loose, and outside we heard a crash of glass, as though the skylight had been broken by a sea, fortunately we found this morning that this was not the case. The night however, was fine and the moon nearly full, shone out brightly. And it is today I am happy to say the sun has come out, and brightened the prospect, there is still however, a heavy swell and good deal of rolling about. The 2nd Officer (Mr Davis) told me that the ship rolled 36° last night and he added “it could have been much worse.” 40° I believe is the maximum degree beyond which a ship is likely to roll right over and be swamped, so not much margin was left for the ‘Ganges’ last night.
Mrs Conran and Mrs Cochran both on deck this morning after breakfast. We had a no service on board this morning, owing I presume to the rolling and (blank). I was obliged to employ the ship’s barber (a Cingalese) to shave me, (5th time).
After breakfast I went on the Hurricane deck for a couple of hours. Whilst there I went in to the chart room, by Mr Chichester’s invitation and saw the course we had taken the last few days and were now going, he tells me we passed Lisbon in the night, 20 miles to the Eastward, and may probably enter the Bay of Biscay after 10 o’clock p.m. Our course is now direct North.
Ran 245 miles.
Woodhouse gave me the address of his tailors, viz., Taylor and Gardiner,” Old Bond Street. Grace had a terrible fall from her bed on to the ground, the full length of the cabin, she was lying outside the bed half dozing, and had not noticed that the board (which generally was kept up on one side to prevent falling out) was away, which, as the ship gave a terrible roll) was the cause of her being precipitated with force to my side of the cabin, and was bruised a little.
Later on we were disturbed by a sea coming through the door way of the back companion in the after saloon. The door being here opened at the suggestion of a passenger, which caused the place to be flooded for a time: 3 or 4 inches of water!
2nd February 1885, Monday
Passed Cape Finistone in the night.
We had a very severe, or fierce as Mr Davis, the 2nd Officer called it) gale last night, the ship rolling and tumbling about in a most uncomfortable manner. A heavy storm of rain continuing for hours and accompanied with thunder and lightning. Grace very much disturbed by it, and feeling bruised from her fall from her bed yesterday, falling on the ground, unable for the first time to get up to breakfast. She however, came out of her cabin about 11 o’clock, and felt better. During the gale last night the weather was comparatively warm, the Thermometer being 60° throughout it. This morning in the Nurses cabin it was 64°. We did not make as good a run today as was expected, and considering that during some part of the night the ship was going 13 knots an hour, being a Southerly bound. The days run at 12 today was 262 miles. We have therefore 353 miles to make before reaching Plymouth.
Mrs Bray, Mrs Roddick, Mrs Burleigh and other Ladies all in their cabins today. Mrs Burleigh in great tribulation, she dropped her ring (her engagement ring) in the bathroom, and is no where to be found. It is a ruby ring, consisting of four stones.
The following is a list, copied from the Purser’s, of the new passengers who came on board at Gibraltar.
Mrs Agar (widow)
Miss Lyons (daughter of Lieutenant Colonel Lyons)
Mr P. Hughes
Dr Tuthill (Army Doctor)
Lieutenant C.S. Thomson (or Thomstor) of H.M. 52nd Regiment.
Mrs White (wife of Brevet Colonel White of H.M. 1st Royals) and two children and nurse.
Mr Fanshawe (of H.M.S. 52nd Regiment)
Mr W Seaton (connected with the Cable Telegram Company)
Mr R.Thomas (Commercial Traveler of Chester, an invalid)
I was obliged to get the ship’s barber to shave me again this morning (for the 6th time) owing to the difficulty of standing, much less of shaving. Awoke with a headache as usual which got better after application of cold water to it. Played whist with Bray, Hay and Woodhouse, I the loser 5/6. Miss Lyons sand “the weaving of the Green,” uncommonly well, without accompaniment.
3rd February 1885, Tuesday
Ship tumbling about last night, again. Rolling excessively owing to the heavy swell. Thermometer at 10 o’clock this morning in Pursers Cabin 55, recorded(?) 9 degrees difference since yesterday. Miss Burleigh to her great delight found her ring. She had lost in the bath room. It was found by our bedroom Steward (Saunders), great rejoicing over the matter.
At breakfast time the Captain informed us that we had just entered the “Chops of the Channel,” felt a perceptible difference in the atmosphere. Very cold but day clear and sunshiny.
Had the ships barber to shave me (for the 7th time).
The distance run today 265 miles. We expect, according to the Captain, to be in Plymouth about 8 o’clock tonight. Grace hard at work parking away clothes. The ship still rolling about (now 4 o’clock p.m.) that I can scarcely write, what I wrote in the last preceding pages, I was obliged to write in pencil, first and copied it afterwards in ink, there is no question about the “Ganges” being a ship giving to undue rolling, I never recollect in the three sailing ships I went to and from Australia I ever found the difficulty I do now in standing in one’s cabin, or dressing, and the noise and vibration of the screw is simply distressing, to one like myself who suffer so much from pain in the back of head.
Very cold thought the wind is somewhat Southerly.
At 8 o’clock we came in sight of the (blank) lighthouse at Plymouth, heavy rain and piteously cold. (Notwithstanding after considerable delay and doubts in the passengers minds o steam launch came off at about 10 o’clock and the following passengers left the ship for Plymouth viz
Mr and Mrs Cochran
Mr and Mrs Bray and son
Mr and Mrs Conran
Reverend Mr Hall
Lieutenant Hay R.N.
Lieutenant Fanshawe of 52nd.
Thurston of 52nd
Hughes of 52nd
The launch did not leave the side of the ship till just 11. The passengers therefore must have had their patience tried beyond endurance. Conran’s brother came off to meet his brother and wife, they seem very like to each other, but the brother older and taller. The agent of the ship and two agents from Grindley and Co and King and Co (the latter are going up to the docks with us) came on board to see if we would employ either of them to pass our luggage at the Customs. Heard from the Stovins and Mrs Matthews Scott. Grace wrote a long letter to Fanny (a double one) and I gave it to the Barman to get posted at Plymouth. We saw the lamps of the train.
4th February 1885, Wednesday
Terribly cold and dull, left Plymouth at about 6 o’clock on a rainy day and so dark in the saloon that the lamps at luncheon time at 1, had to be lighted and kept so, afterwards the whole of the day.
Had the Barber to shave me for the 8th time.
After breakfast saw the “Start” Lighthouse and the contrary coast, but it was so rainy and cheerless on deck, that I was obliged to leave it, and remain in the cabin and saloon all the day long, put on extra clothing, and extra flannel waistcoat, and an extra pair of trousers, and 2 light great coats.
5th February 1885 Thursday
About day break the ship came to an anchor in the river waiting as I understood for the tide.
The morning was fine and somewhat more cheerful than yesterday, but after lunch, it became cloudy and rainy and a fog. Ships and boats without number passed us on the way down the Channel, amongst others the “Orient” steamer bound to Sydney, with apparently a large number of passengers on the poop.
Had a final packing up today and paid £1 to our bedroom Steward, £1 to him, Stewardess 15/- to the waiter, who attended us at our meals, 5/- to the Steward who attended in where we had a mid ships cabin for the first 2 or 3 days, 5/- to the cook, 5/- to the butcher (on account of being provided with a cup of milk every morning) and 5/- to Barber. £3.15 in all for fees to servants, I mention this circumstance as may guide others who like myself are novices at travelling. Also 5/- to barber. The after part of the day was most cheerless, a cold wind blowing, and occasional squalls of rain, added to this a foggy atmosphere, and the Thames water as disturbed by the screw of the steamer most malodorous. When we got as far as Gravesend another Pilot came on board, and the one who joined us at Plymouth left. Miss Burleigh who hoped to reach Liverpool tonight, took advantage of the Pilot’s boat to leave in the hope catching the train. Mr Roddick also left, to make arrangements in London for his wife; Miss Sadler’s brother came with the Pilot on board to meet her and accompanied her to the end of her journey.
We saw several places of interest on the way, Tilbury Fort, on one side, Woolwich on the other, several old men of war turned into Training ships and hulks, the “Mathusa” the “Chichester” and others I forgot.
We also saw in the distance the (Rosherville?) Gardens, the (blank) Marbles. Two very powerful tug boats met us, the Atlas and Victoria and accompanied us for some miles to the Royal Albert Dock, which on account of the strong current of the river required very careful management and detained us nearly an hour. Then another long detention caused by the Custom’s House Officer having to inspect our luggage, but I cannot speak too highly of their great politeness and consideration shown to the passengers, and the careful manner with which they removed the contents of our baggage. It became now quite dark, and we were excessively inconvenienced in getting our boxes, from the ship to the wharf. These had to be wheeled in a truck some distance to the railway station, for which we had to wait some little time, we then entered the train to Fenchurch St and proceeded as far as where the train stopped, by then we have to change trains and getting into another one on the Eastern Counties Railway, for which we also had to wait, nearly half an hour, and reached the terminus about 7.30 and the porter carried in a truck our luggage, and got us a close four wheeled cab and we then drove to the Grand Hotel, Charing Cross, which took us about ½ and hour. The porter who came to the door of the Inn, in answer to our inquiries after he had been to the manager, assured us they were very full and could only give us a room on the third floor, with two beds in it, such being the case, we drove on to the Covent Garden Hotel, a very short distance off in Southampton St, where we got a comfortable bed room, and also a comfortable tea. Very tired both of us.
Shortly after the Pilot came on board news of the taking of Khartoum by the Mahdi and of General Gordon being a prisoner in his hands reached us.
Mrs White who joined us at Gibraltar has been ill in bed the last few days, has fever, but as the Doctor thinks she is likely to get worse and says it would be better if she were taken on shore this evening, this advice was carried out, and she came by the same train we did, and was taken to General Sir (blank) Herberts residence where she is to stay, he being her brother as and leaving on board for the night this privilege should be cancelled(?) to all passengers who prefer remaining rather than landing and reaching London late
6th February 1885, Friday
Just 8 weeks since we left Sydney.
Awoke at 8 o’clock and in looking out of the window facing Southampton Street discovered that we were exactly opposite Covent Garden Market. The street for early morning, filled with carts of all kinds and laden with vegetables. It was not a promising looking morning, for the fog darkened the sky, and it was not clear daylight till 9, when we had breakfast.
We received a telegram from Mr Stovin (in answer to one we sent him, telling him of our arrival) saying that he would be with us at 11, at which time he and Mrs Storin drove down in their comfortable Brougham and two servants on his Box. About 12 he drove me to the Colonial Institute, introduced me to Mr Young, the Honorary Secretary and Mr O’Halloran the paid secretary, and then put my name down as a new resident member. There I heard that a railway collision had taken place on the Sydney to Melbourne line and that 40 people had been killed. From thence we drove to A.J.S. Bank, 2 King William Street, with the Assistant Manager I deposited my return ticket to Australia, and presented my letter of credit for £1000, against which I drew Bills for £200, in Sydney, paying £3 per cent for the exchange.
Had a lunch dinner at the Hotel at 2, and afterwards sallied out on foot with Grace to look at lodgings recommended by Mr Matthews Hall(?) and Barrett in Cecil Street, Strand. The terms being £6.6 a week for 2 of us. We then took a cab (at 2/6 in tern) and drove to Margaret St, Cavandish Square, and inspected lodgings recommended by Miss Brown at the “Parys(?),” the rent we found(?) was also about £6.6 but he could not let us have them till Saturday week.
Grace afterwards drove to her – Kitchens in Regent St, and selected a Bonnet for herself £2.5 the price. I went to Nicholas the Pal—maker, to look at great coats, but he wanted 4.4 for a rough looking sort of thing, and therefore have determined to have one made by a good tailor. Have symptoms of bronchitis, and have been taking Prynia(?).
I received from the Bank, 2 letters from Fanny of the 23rd Dec, one giving us an account of -- for Cook’s River, the other enclosing one from Aunt Sophy and Mrs Storm. – was a letter from Marie, and another from the -- --
7th February 1885, Saturday
Not so cold this morning, and we got a sight of the sun about 9 o’clock. Did not feel very well, which delayed my going out till 11.30 when I took two omnibuses, 1st to the Bank and then to Finsbury Square, from whence I walked to Finsbury Circus, and called to see Dr Kidd, the Homeopathic Physician, who attended Lord Beaconsfield, the Dr not in, and will not be at his rooms till Monday next, when I have to put my name for a consultation wit him. From thence I walked down to St Pauls Church yard before I got an omnibus, so many being full. I got back at Inn at 2.15, where we had dinner, and afterwards Grace and I took a stroll to Covent Garden Market, opposite, admiring the fruit, grapes, pears, hyacinths and Lily of the Valley. Beautiful large Pine Apples 8/- a piece. We then walked down the Strand (Grace purchased a pair of boots on the way at 22/-) On to Trafalgar Square where the statue of (Harelick?) is placed close to Nelson’s Monument, blackened by the smoke of London. Then through the Lowther Arcade admiring the toys for children. Waterloo Place and Regent Street, where Grace purchased note paper &c from a man named Cooke. We then hailed an Omnibus, which took us to our Street (Southampton St). On getting out saw a Fire Engine going up at full speed, as there was a fire not far from our Inn, and crowds of people blocking off the street, so we had to go beyond and turn up Exeter St, near Exeter Hall, and make a circuitous route. The fire was soon put out, a quiet returned. In the Drawing room this evening we found some new lodgers, a Mrs (blank) and her daughter, who is under a Aurist on account of her deafness. The mother is wife of a London Civil Officer and Resident Magistrate, who is at present in India. Cut pictures and looking at some in the morning.
8th February 1885, Sunday
Very cold foggy morning, and all the pavement wet, as though rain had fallen, and yet it is but the fog that has so muddied the streets. We did not get up till 9, and had breakfast at 10.15. We intended having gone to Mary le Bone Church, but not having time we went to a parish Church of St Pauls in this area and very close to the Hotel we were staying at: Covent instead, which I believe belongs to St George’s parish. We were late notwithstanding; the psalms being changed when we got there, the Church is very dismal inside, and we saw on a tablet in the walls outside, that it was destroyed by fire in 1795 and rebuilt in 1798.
The approach to it was not the main entrance but down a sort of passage. The Rector’s name is Cumberleys and the curate (who preached) is his so, I presume an M.B.D., as he wears a Doctors hood. The choir comprised of 8 boys and 3 men, out of surplices, and the congregation only about 100, numbers of empty pews. The Church was very warm and heated from below by some means or another. Text 13th Acts. This cloudy weather makes one feel very depressed, and I am not astonished at young Australians on first arrival, longing to return to sunny Australia.
9th February 1885, Monday
Went after breakfast and consulted Dr Kidd, the Homeopathic Doctor of No.1 Finchley Circus, paid him £2 for his consultation fee. He examined me minutely, and said that all the pains in head and neck, swelling of ankles puffiness of the eyes &c, were attributable to my suffering from Albumenaria, having then looked the water. I am to see him again on Friday and in the mean time to take a certain medicine which smelt like turpentine, and to rub with a similar smelling lotion, my neck and back of head every night and morning.
After lunch Grace and I went to the Stroms(?) to meet Mrs Hamden, but she did not come. Mrs Barker (widow of Bishop Barker) however, called to see Grace.
Stroms house is very comfortable, and he keeps up a good establishment, Coachman, Footman, Butler. Warwick Square is in a fashionable part of London, and next to Eccleston Square, but was not built when I was last in England 30 years ago. It was then a market garden!
10th February 1885, Tuesday
Called on Admiral Fenwick at the Home Office, Whitehall, not in, left my card, but in the afternoon at 4 he called upon me at the inn, and I then delivered the papers his son had forwarded by me to him. I had previously called on Wynns on Regent St, upon enquiring a (fork?) plate of ones arms, £4 the piece. Stovin(?) sent his carriage for us at 4, and he and I about 5 went to a dinner. I had a very bad cold, and bronchial attack but notwithstanding I went with him to a dinner given by the Colonial Institute. Met Arthur Hodgson who sat next to me, on one side, Stovin on the other. Alger (of Sydney) nearly opposite. The Chairman was Sir Charles Clifford of the New Zealand Parliament. A Mr Haden had a lecture afterwards on New Zealand which after if was ended had to be debated upon. Neither Stovin nor I could wait to hear the conclusions. Met Sir F and Lady Villeneuve, South(?) and daughter at the lecture. Also Lyttleton, formerly Private Secretary to Sir H. Robinson.
Bray (our fellow passenger) and Ex Colonial Secretary from Park was at the Colonial Institute dinner and lecture.
11th February 1885, Wednesday
Stovin called for me at 3 o’clock and dove me to the Empire Club in (Grafton?) St where I have been elected an Honorary Member for 28 days. After which period I can go on monthly on payment of £1.1. The house was formerly Lord Brougham, and is beautifully fitted up and furnished in a way worthy of imitation of our Sydney Club. From thence Stovin drove me to the Reform Club, where I called on the Honorable (blank) Petrie whose son is in Australia, from thence eh took me to the Colonial Office, at Westminster and I left my card on the Agent General Sir S Samuel, he being out. Walked home from thence through Leicester Square. After tea I escorted Mrs Porch and her daughter (staying above us at Inn) to the Circus at Covent Garden. No seats in the boxes but to be obtained, and we therefore had to go in the 3/6 stalls very highly placed. I was disappointed in the circus itself, as Chiam’s Circus whilst performing in Sydney was vastly superior. A young girl with beautiful figure, dressed in a riding habit exhibited her knee in a most forceful manner. She made him march round, then go on his knees, and keep time to the music. The horse called “Blondie” going up steps and across what was called a tight rope, was tedious and uninteresting.
12 February 1885, Thursday
Grace wrote Fanny and Milly today.
Awoke this morning with great pains in head and nape of neck, felt frail and weak and suffering from slight nausea. This cold and cough very much better though. Did not get to breakfast till past 10. At 11 o’clock went in a cab to 9 Chesterfield Street, Mayfair, to consult Dr Dickinson (Stovin’s Doctor) with whom I was in conversation about myself for nearly an hour. He after mature consideration seemed to think that though these were symptoms of Albamania(?) (after microscopic chemical tests) and that puffiness under the eyes was an indication of it, still that all my other symptoms, pains in head and neck, joints, knees, swelling of ankles, were all attributed to Rheumatic causes and he saw nothing to be apprehensive of, such as congestion of the brain, or other spinal affections. And in accordance with that opinion has prescribed Sarsparella for me to be taken three times a day (4 tablespoons at a time) and also recommend my taking “Enos Salts.” He also says that if at the end of the month no change for the better is (brought, wrought?) by the remedies, to see him again, and in the event of London not agreeing with me, he would suggest my going to Bath and taking the waters there. Disapproving of my going to either the Isle of Wight or Clifton, he thinks I should not return to Australia again (if it were possible) as owing to the sudden alteration of climate it is adverse to me rheumatically suffering. I told him that dr Morris of Sydney had expressed an opinion of my suffering from Cyrotic disease of the kidney, which he (Dr Dickinson) said might be so and that that state might go on for years and yet not be dangerous.
Returned to the Inn by 1 o’clock and in half an hour Grace and I drove in a cab to Mrs Hanbro (Yorke’s sister) and had lunch with her, her daughter a find tall dark eyed looking girl, though not exactly pretty very attractive and full of conversation. There was a Miss Stevenson at table who I imagine was or had been her Governess, or Lady Help. Conversation touching upon General Earle, Eyre of – being killed a few days ago in the last battle with the Mahdi from Colonel Eyre (Airey?) I imagine must be a brother of Mrs Austin of Sydney.
Much warmer today, left off my coat in the house. Paid £2.2 to Dr Dickinson for consultation fee.
13th February 1885, Friday
Very foggy morning, but not so cold as on first arrival. Had breakfast at 10 o’clock, and went afterwards to Dr Kidd, 1 Finchley Circus, arrived at his house at 11.30, and waited upwards of one hour and a half before he could see me, and 25 patients in the room whilst I was there. Paid him another guinea and for further advice and prescriptions. He is full of opinion that the pains in head and neck are attributable to the Albuminam, my in leaving the water again this morning says that distinct traces of Albumen are to be found. He recommends vapour baths afterwards to be bathed in hot water, applying potash soap, and wearing woolen underclothing and drawers, he prescribed also for Bronchitis and also for the kidneys. Took a wrong Omnibus from the Bank which was going to Oxford St, got out and walked to the Underground Railway terminus which took me to Charing Cross. Not reaching the Inn till after 2, had some sandwiches and a glass of wine and then Grace and I went in a 4 wheeled cab to her truss maker, Mrs Ayling, in Holles St where she was detained near ¾ of an hour. From thence to Baker St to look at lodgings, No.1 York Place, kept by a Miss Partridge (charge 4 ½ guineas a week), where Philip Russel and his wife stayed once. She could not receive us, then we looked at some in York St, but they were dingy and on the ground floor, then to No.1 Norfolk Square Mrs Woolnough, (4 guineas a week). Drove to Regent St, from whence we walked home through Leicester Square, onwards to Carrick St and home to the Inn. Grace felt very tired afterwards and went to bed early. Grace sent patterns of dresses from Redfern & Sons to Mrs Barney, and Lissa Stephen.
Particularly struck today by observing how the comfortable quarters erected in nearly all the Cab stands, and a sort of refuge for the Cabman at night and in cold weather, whilst waiting to be hired. A sort of thing much needed for Sydney, particularly in the hot weather there as a protection for the men, as well as from rain.
14th February 1885, Saturday
Cold and cough better nearly well.
A thick fog on awaking at 8 o’clock and in consequence of a severe headache and pains in neck and could not get up till 9. I had breakfast at 10. At 12.30 we took an “Atlas(?)” Omnibus at Charing Cross and went out to Bromley Road, St John’s Wood to lunch at the Matthew Scotts (No.76) Mr and Mrs Storin drove up just at the same minute we arrived at the gate (Mary been invited to meet us), but we did not have lunch till after 2, waiting for Matthew Scott, and Mr (Latenousdle?) and three of his daughters composed the party. We did not leave till nearly 5, took a passing Omnibus as far as Regents Circus and walked home by Charing Cross, and Strand looking in at all the shop windows in passing.
I did not know Mrs Scott, so altered, grown old, fat and dowdy and so much shorter than I remembered her. Scott says he is 71, the girls are short and plain, but polite. Paid my Bill £8.11 up to the 11th by cheque.
The Musgraves called today.
15th February 1885, Sunday
Pouring rain in the morning, moderated about 12, and then Grace and I went to the District Railway at Charing Cross and took return tickets to Turnham Green, 1/6 each (3). The train started at 1, occasionally passing underground, emerging towards the last part of the drive into the country. “Freddy Wise” and Alec met us at the Station and escorted us to his mother’s residence, 7 Priory Terrace, Bedford Park, W., where we lunched by invitation, seeing her other son Arnold and her only daughter, “Minnie” a rather handsome girl. All the houses in this road are built of brick, cottage fashion, the architect trying to make them resemble small edifices of byegone period. Mrs Wise very glad to see us, and the young people very polite and attentive. Mrs Wise looks very well indeed, and has kept her good looks wonderfully well. We left about 5, and returned again by the railway. Still raining though not heavily.
16th February 1885, Monday
Sir S and Lady Samuel called this afternoon whilst we were out.
After breakfast, notwithstanding the heavy rain I sallied out, and went to the Globe Theatre near the Strand to try to get tickets for tomorrow to hear the “Private Secretary” which had been more than a 100 nights run, no available seats to be had! Walked in to 59 Moorgate St to Goulds the Homeopathic Chemist, to get Dr Kidd’s three prescriptions made up for me, one for kidneys, one for bronchitis, one for general health and appetite. Returned by 2 o’clock and had sandwiches and wine for lunch, and then Grace and I went in a cab to her dressmakers in Holles St, of Oxford St. I left her there and went on to Bond St sending the cab back for her. I went first to my tailors “Gardner & Taylor” to try on my Great Coat which they have made (6.10). Then to Savoy & Morris the Chemists in New Bond St, to get Dr Dickenson’s prescriptions made up. Then to Truptts the hair dressers (in Bond St) and had my hair cut, then to the Empire Club in Grafton St to show myself after being elected an Honorary Member. And also to call on Admiral Wilson, who had only just been there, and to whom the Members give a dinner on Wednesday. Prior to this appointment to Devonport (Hinth?).
The manager of this Inn, told me he could not let me have rooms here under £6.0 a week. I had proposed £5.5. I however, told him I should have to leave and till I left, he must not charge me more than £6.6 per week.
Got 100 visiting cards for Grace and 100 for myself printed at W.Cookes, Regent St. Met Mr and Mrs Davies formerly living at Hazlemere on the Edgcliff Road, Sydney. He sold the place to the late William Foster.
Much warmer today, notwithstanding my having walked about half the day in the rain. The mud abominable, the handsome shop windows in Bond St splashed with it from top to bottom.
17th February 1885, Tuesday
Foggy and rainy in the morning. Did not have breakfast till 10. Afterwards on getting ready to go out Bay- Buchanan, Annie (Unt?) and her brother Robert, called and sat some little while. At 1 o’clock Grace and I went to lunch at Lady Villeneuve Smith, 26 Courtfield Gardens, Kensington. Sir Francis Smith and his daughters gave us a very kind reception, and a very nice lunch. After lunch Lady Lefroy (widow of late Sir - - of Tasmania) and her step daughter Mrs Lefroy called. We left about 5, and walked over to the opposite side of the gardens and called on Sir Saul and Lady Samuel who live near, at 15 Courtfield Gardens, they were out. Their day of receiving generally on Thursdays. We came and returned by the Charing Cross Railway and we got out at Earls Court Station which is the Terminus near Courtfield Gardens. After we left Courtfield Gardens and before leaving by train, we walked by Eardley Crescent close by, and called on Mrs Griffin (Mrs Hawkin’s sister) and saw herself and daughter, the latter a very tall young woman, and an artist. She has invited us to her studio. Had Australian letters dated January inclosing some from Marie, Chris, Henry.
Paid my tailor cash £6.10 for Great Coat.
18th February 1885, Wednesday
Fine bright day, but colder than the last week. Breakfasted at 10, and afterwards went to W.Cooke, Stationer about die for crest. At 1 Grace and I drove in a cab to lunch with Mrs S.A. Joseph, 40 Port St, Belgravia Square. Mrs Wilson (wife of the Admiral) and her two daughters were (Mrs Angus) has just arrived from China and is living with her mother. Mrs Wilson has the same cold manner she was noted for in Sydney. Joseph himself was detained in the city with business and did not come to lunch.
After lunch Grace and I walked to Queens Gate and on No.6 St.George’s Terrace to look at lodgings recommended to us by Mrs Dowling and which she had occupied when in England. Unfortunately no rooms were to be had, the terms were £2.2 per week for sitting room and bedroom. From thence we walked to Albert Hall and saw the Albert Memorial in Hyde Park. All the omnibuses were full and we took a cab to Sackville St, to look at lodgings there, terms £3.3 per week, 4/- a day for board, 1/- a day for (firing?). Called on the way at the Burly’s(?), Half Moon St, Piccadilly, but they had gone to 40 Clarges St.
19th February 1885, Thursday
Kept awake all night with a very severe cold, sneezes all night, and during the whole day, with tending to bronchitis. Took a (conile?) of Begonia, and kept a piece of camphor in my mouth when walking out, did not get up till 1 o’clock. Had lunch and then went “lodging hunting” went to Southwich Place, recommended by Miss Mort, where her cousins the Jen Mitchells and Miss Mitty Mitchell lodged. Did not like the place, looked dirty, and the servant of all work had inflamed eyes which was not an agreeable accompaniment to a woman who might be waiting upon us hourly. Then went to Cambridge St but these were full. Then to Albion St, where the sister of in law of Bright, the Member resides, but after consideration on going to the Inn made an agreement to pay 18/- a day or 6.6 per week, inclusive everything except wine and fire in bedroom.
The Algars called, they are living in Clayes St.
Got a 2d bottle of medicine from Savoy and more (Sasparilla) prescribed by Dr Dickinson.
The Coldstream Guards left London for Egypt.
20th February 1885, Friday
A bleak North Easterly wind blowing. Had pains in the head, nape of neck, sneezing and - - all day and a touch of Bronchitis. Tried Arsenium. Did not get up till 12 o’clock, and did not leave the house all day, so intensely cold it was, and so severe my influenza, sneezing whenever I went out of my room.
Mr and Mrs Conran, our fellow passengers by the “Ganges” called in afternoon, and paid us a long visit, they are staying with an aunt of hers at Kensington.
Grace wrote to Marie, Mrs Stephen and Fanny, and I wrote another letter to Fanny in reply to her two which came by “Sorala(?)” and dated of 5th and 8th January.
The 3rd Battalion of Grenadier Guards left Windsor for Egypt, under command of General Honorable W.S.D. Home.
21st February 1885, Saturday
Stayed in my bed and bedroom all day, in consequence of the severe cold and bronchitis I have been suffering from the last few days. Tried Dr Kidds remedy last night “Phrophrons” but it did not seem to do me much benefit, so I had recourse to Begonia and Duleanara(?) during the night, have great pains from swelling behind the ears and made the jaw which I tried to ease by rubbing in Day cream.(?).
Continued Dr Dickinson’s prescription, Sarsaparilla three times a day. Mrs Matthew Scott and her sister Mrs Inchbald called on Grace, I was not able to see them.
Had ‘Whiting’ for tea, a tasteless fish, not equal to our game fish in New South Wales.
Fine day but cold wind blowing, obliged to have a fire in bedroom all day.
22nd February 1885, Sunday
Foggy dark dreary day, streets muddy and wet. Stayed in bed room all day suffering from pains in head, nape of neck, swelling under jaw, and behind the ears, evidently the result of the severe cold I have taken.
Had a fire in my bed room all day.
23rd February 1885, Monday
Got up middle day, but still suffering from pain in ear, throat, difficulty of swallowing on one side. Foggy day again, did not go out of house.
24th February 1885, Tuesday
Fine day on the whole, but a fog in the morning. Feel better today. My cold and bronchitis disappearing gradually. Wrote to Susan Downman. Heard from Miss Marsh-Caldwell, inviting us to Linley Wood. After lunch called on Mrs Barker (widow of late Bishop of Sydney) to meet Bishop of Bathurst and Mrs Marsden, who were very glad to see us, the Bishop has grown quite a Chesterfield in manners. He does not look well, though not so ill as when he left Sydney. They have been residing at Clifton since their arrival, and have placed their eldest son at the College there. The Bishop tells me he has got to the head of his class already. We met some (Ronses’?) of Sydney at Mrs Barkers, also same afternoon and old lady who was introduced to me as some connection to the late Judge Milford of Sydney. We stayed later than we intended (nearly 5 o’clock) and returned by the Under Ground Railway, from Kensington, intending to get out at Charing Cross Station, but we inadvertently went beyond, and got out at the Temple Bar Terminus on the Thames Embankment. From thence we walked into the Strand and home to our Inn. At the time I did not feel worse for my trip, my cold and cough having apparently left me.
Paterson, who married Louise Paterson called whilst we were out, also Mrs Edward Wise and daughter. Grace purchased a pair of onyx earrings from Tessier of Bond St at £2.15.
25th February 1885, Wednesday
Awoke with a very severe cold and bronchitis. I have evidently suffered a relapse from breathing the evening air yesterday, on my return from Mrs Barkers. We were invited to lunch at the Stovins today to meet the Bishop of Bathurst and Mrs Marsden but the day was so unpropitious and so adverse to my state that I could not go, but stayed in my bed from all day. Stovin called, he returned from Brighton on Monday, and told Grace that he would send the carriage for us at 1, and send her home again in the evening, so Grace consented to go, and went. I remained at home reading Australian letters from Fanny, Marie, and Mrs James Manning, of 8th and 14th January. I wrote in reply to Fanny and Marie and sent a note to Milly under cover to Fanny, which goes I believe by the Mail tomorrow.
Young Alexander Wise called and saw me in my bed room, and after he went out Mr Busby came up. He goes out in the Sutly(?) on 12th March, he is looking wretched, weak and ill, having been eight weeks laid up with liver complaint, and has only just returned from Bournemouth where he went for the benefit of his health. He tells me Mrs Chadwick goes out with them. He, like myself, pines for Australian sunshine.
Admiral and Mrs Fenwick(?) called again, whilst Grace was away.
Grace tells me in addition to the Marsdens, the met a Lady Tarlston at lunch, widow of the late Admiral whom she liked very much.
Received medicine, Belladonna and Bryomn(?) Liniment from (Leek & Bro?) Homeopathic Chemists, for which I paid 2/7. The former Fanny says Dr Beattie of Sydney recommended for bronchitis and being rubbed on the spine. Commenced taking Enos Fruit Salt this morning, recommended by Dr Dickinson to me.
Sent by post today:-
1 letter to Marie from myself.
1 letter to Fanny from myself, with note inclosed to Milly
1 letter (with notes) to Fanny from Grace.
The P&O Steamer “Ganges” was visited today by the Prince and Princess of Wales preparatory to her leaving the Docks tomorrow, for a Hospital Ship in the Red Sea.
26th February 1885, Thursday
Got up at 12 o’clock and being a fine day, Grace and I went in an Omnibus to Piccadilly and called first on the Busbys at 40 Clayes Street. Only Busby and two of the younger girls at home, all prepar8ing for their voyage. He looks a little better, though weak. After remaining some little while walked over to the opposite side of the street and called on the Algars, No.10 Clayes St. The only one at home was Miss Algar who has been confined to the house and sofa with a lame foot having scaled it. She is very much improved in appearance. I would not have known her. Much slighter than she was, and has grown a really fine pretty girl, the prettiest of girls I have yet seen in England. She tells us Metaxa? is to be in London next Monday, at Marshall Thompson’s Hotel, Cavendish Square. As the afternoon became somewhat chillier than when we came out I thought it advisable to take first Omnibus to Charing Cross, and returned shortly after to the Inn.
Our old ship, the P&O Steamer “Ganges” which was fitted up as a hospital ship to be stationed in the Red Sea left this morning with the nurses, surgeons and staff.
Paid Inn Bill £7.7.4
27th February 1885, Friday
Raining and foggy morning. Felt somewhat better, the Bella Donna Liniment seems to have done my cold good. Took another dose of Eno’s Salt, and got up at 11. At 12.30 went in cab to 4 Addison Road , Wilton Lodge, to lunch with the Patersons, (nee Gremden?). Paterson has grown old and feeble, though no grey hair. Mrs Paterson has grown stout, and though her beauty has departed, yet there is the same kindly smile and manner of old. The only daughter, I forget her Christian name, was at home, a fine handsome agreeable girl of about 17 or 18. Their house is rented from an Adelaide man for only 6 months, F--- Ga--, it is a new house, stands by itself, and has a garden at back of an acres in extent and built upon parts of what is, or was Holland Park. Paterson was very anxious to hear about Stuart Russell, he having been at Harrow with him. We stayed an hour or two after lunch, and then walked accompanied by Miss Paterson in search of the Musgrave’s house No.4 Holland Park, which after a look round two sides of it, and found Mr and Mrs Musgrave in, where we said good bye to Miss Paterson. The Musgraves very glad to see us. They live in a charming house, beautiful fitted up, the walls covered with pictures and both most cordial and pleasant. We sat chatting till after 7, when she insisted on sending one of her footmen for a chaise cab for me, and we reached the In by about 7.40, and had tea dinner.
Heard from Miss Marsh-Caldwell, again and wrote accepting her invitation to Linley Wood the beginning of May next. Grace wrote to George Prim—(?).
Stovin and Mrs Stovin called whilst we were out. Weather much warmer today.
Got new medicine from Leak & Ross for bronchitis called “Glyhaline,” and box of glycerine lozenges. Paid cabman 3/- to take us to Patersons, and another cabman 3/- to bring us back from the Musgraves.
Curious case in the papers today of the Earl of Durham seeking to have his marriage with his wife (nee Milner, granddaughter of Arch Bishop of Armagh) declared a nullity, on the ground of imbecility insanity. As far as the evidence has gone, he has not the shadow of a claim and I think the peculiar ‘shyness’ and taciturnity which the witnesses for the Ear speak of must arise from the hidden causes which the world cannot possibly know anything about, but of which most likely he is the cause. I am anxious to see the result of the Judgment of the Courts.
28th February 1885, Saturday
Got up at 10.30. Cloudy morning. Went out at 12 with Grace in a cab to Mrs Hughes, the dressmaker, in order for Grace to try on new dress. Left her there and walked up and down Bond St, returned for Grace and she and I walked to Regent Street, had lunch at a Confectioners and then walked to the Gainsborough picture gallery in Bond St, crowded with people. In addition to those painted by him, Gainsborough, there were several in another room, the work of the late (blank) Doyle, some in water colour, some were sketchings. One I like the best was the picture of the residence of the late Charlotte Bronte, I suppose her Father’s Vicarage, surrounded by a grave yard, with numbers of tombstones cropping out. A very weird picture and just the sort of place and scene to impress the young authoress with so many melancholy ideas. As to the pictures by Gainsborough.
1st March 1885, Sunday
Felt very unwell, awoke with pain in neck and head. Cold and bronchitis better. Did not get up till 12. A fine day but with Easterly wind blowing. After lunch Grace and I went by Westminster Omnibus and got out at a Railway Station. I think they call it (blank) and walked from thence to Warwick Square and called on the Stovins whom we found at home. They both after a little while accompanied us to the Underground Railway, by which we went to High Street, Kensington Station, for the purpose of calling on Lady Murray, who lives at No.1 (blank) Avenue, (blank). It is not far away from the station. We found her in, looking very well and very pleased to see us, and were introduced to her mother and two sisters, the youngest of whom shows traces of having been once good looking, though passée now. Sunday is her day at home and several other people came after us, two young men, one a German, who looked a Professor of Music or Singing. Another, a younger man, a Mr Weyatt, cousin of Weyatt of Sydney. Lady Murray proposes that Grace should go with the family of her Cousin Farrer on Palm Sunday. Had afternoon tea, and returned by Underground Railway to Charing Cross, a little afterwards, During our absence the two Lorings called, their mother was a daughter of Cuthbert Marsh of Eastbury.
2nd March 1885, Monday
Levee held today by the Prince of Wales, and at which the Bishop of Bathurst attended, and my fellow passenger Bray, formerly Premier of South Australia was presented. Count Metaxa was also present at it. I awoke this morning with bad headache, and neck ache, pain in back and general prostration. Did not get up in consequence till 12 o’clock. The Stovins called shortly after. After lunch Grace and I went by Underground Railway to Earl Court Square, to call on Admiral and Mrs Fenwick, as today is their reception day. Found them all in and very polite. The eldest daughter very plain and bad figure, and dressed in bad taste. The younger one has the redeeming quality of having a pretty face and lively manner. Others came in to pay the usual reception visit, and we left going by Underground Railway to Gloucester Road. From thence we took cab and called on a Miss Grant, a relation of the Alexander Campbells, being about ½ a mile from the Station at No. (blank) Sydney St. She is very old, very Scotch(?), very plain, and I was not in any way prepossessed.
My relative Commander Crofton R.N. called whilst we were out. Also Captain Sahl, the Consul of Sydney. Sir Francis and Lady Smith also left cards.
3rd March 1885, Tuesday
Raining all day. Felt very unwell, so much so that I determined again to consult Dr Dickinson. I therefore sent for a cab and drove to 9 Chesterfield St, Mayfair. I fortunately saw him, no one being with him. He again went into my case, felt my pulse, examined my tongue, looked into my eyes, made me turn them up at ceiling, and down again, from one side to the other, made me move my knees, by bending them, and laying my leg on a chair, felt them with his hand. Touched the vein extending from ankles on side of leg, with his fingers pressing it and keeping it there a little, made me describe the pain in neck and face and head, which on moving my neck round, extended to the left shoulder all which symptoms he at once and unhesitatingly decided were rheumatic and neuralgic, and had nothing to do with the brain whatever. That all the pain the—(?) I was suffering from was entirely outside the brain, and were not the consequence of my suffering from Albumenaria, that that circumstance had evidently weakened me, and therefore left me more predisposed to suffer from the acute Rheumatism that I had. And that there was no doubt therefore all the pains were those caused by Rheumatic Gout. That I was very low and required a tonic, and in addition to the Sarsaparilla he had already prescribed, he intended giving me iron to strengthen me. He also added that though my kidneys were not in a healthy state, and never would be, still that by care and attention he thought I had many more years of useful life in me yet. And recommended my staying longer than the end of May. To obtain three months longer leave of absence, and proposed of his own accord giving me a certificate to that effect which he did.
The bad headache pain in the neck were a neuralgic pain, from which I was suffering so much this year, were attributable to Rheumatic Gout. Paid him 1.1 (2nd visit) by cheque. Did not get up till 11.20 today. After lunch went out to try and see the Agent General, but do not.
4th March 1885, Wednesday
Awoke very exhausted. Stomach ache. Did not get up till 11, and then went with Grace to lunch at the Musgraves, 45 Holland Park. We went by Underground Railway to Addison Road station, and then took a cab. They were very glad to see us, gave us a warm welcome, and a capital luncheon, his Father unfortunately is laid up, and not expected to live, he is a very old man, 84 years of age. Their house is beautifully furnished, the walls covered with pictures, one of Sir Phillip and another of Sir Thomas Musgrave. He has also many good pictures by the old Masters, which are of his ancestor who was fond of painting himself, had collected. We spent a most pleasant agreeable afternoon, he so genial, clever and gentlemany, and she quintessence of kindness and thoughtfulness. Three of her children lunched with us, a girl of about 16, a boy at school of 14, and a little fellow (born in Australia) of about 5 or 6.
After lunch we went to Earls Court Railway station, got out at Gloucester Road and then walked, as had been arranged, to visit Miss Griffin’s studio, in a street near “Clairville Grove” No.4. It was difficult to find and hardly worthy the name of a street, as it appeared as we passed up it, nothing but a series of Mews where horses and carriages were kept. As we entered the studio there were upwards of a dozen people, including old Mrs Griffin, and a Miss Whitcomb, a relation, whose portrait had been painted by Miss Griffin. The object of our visit was to inspect a picture first painted by Miss Griffin, the subject being the Choristers of Westminster Abbey with figures of three monks, clad in white, standing about. Miss Griffin informs me that her model of the monks were Italians, whose livelihood was gained by sitting to painters at 1/- per hour. This picture was to be packed up this evening to be sent away to the Birmingham Exhibition, and had previously been accepted, I understood, though not placed, at the Royal Academy. Mrs Griffin wished us to see her picture in order that we might on our return to Australia tell her son of it.
We did not get back to our hotel till 7 o’clock, rather tired.
5th March 1885, Thursday
Something better today, cold and bronchitis nearly gone, though still very unwell and weak. Got up at 11 o’clock. Grace and I walked out first to Lamberts the Jewellers, in Coventry Street, for the purpose of obtaining his opinion on the sapphires &c I got at Ceylon. He pronounces 2 of the stones good, one bad and of no value. He as Warden of the Goldsmith’s Company, gave me a ticket for a Grand Banquiet held on Thursday next, and another for the Patterrnmakers Society on Thursday following. From thence we walked on to W.Cookes the Stationers on Regent St about note paper &c. Then to Tessiers the Jeweller in Bond Street, who is to make a pair of gold bangles for Grace and put the sapphire in one, and the (lacink?) in the other for 32/- each. Bought a bracelet from him for £3. Crossed over to the opposite side of the street to look at what is called the celebrated picture by Holman Hunt the “Triumph of the Innocents” or “Flight into Egypt” representative of the Darby family. Mary on an ass carrying the infant Christ before her, and surrounded by children on foot carrying flowers and their heads ornamented with chaplets of flowers. It is an extraordinary conception. I was satisfied after 5 minutes inspection. Grace, however, talked herself into the belief that there were some clever bits of painting about it, the foreground, distant lights, and general effect. Some of the children were represented floating in air, above the family with halo and entirely encircling their heads, one of the cherubs apparently fast asleep, his eyes shut, and how under such circumstances according to the natural laws of gravitation, he did not fall to the ground, no one but the artist I imagine could explain. We then walked to Regent St, had lunch at a Confectioner (Elphonstons) and then took Omnibus to Charing Cross Railway Station and went by Under Ground Railway to Earls Court Station and walked from thence to Lady Samuel’s, 15 Courtfield Gardens, today being her day for receiving visitors. She very pleasant and polite. Not many people however. The daughter introduced me to a Mrs Fairfax of Sydney, the wife of one of the Fairfax’s of the Sydney Morning Herald. Called on Lady Smith who lives opposite Lady Samuel and left cards, and walked on to Bailey’s Hotel, Gloucester Road, and called on Mrs Dixon who is staying there but who was not in, so left card for here.
6th March 1885, Friday
Did not get up till 11.
Left home by myself at 12, and called on Sir S Samuel, the Agent General, whose office is at Victoria Chambers, Westminster, very glad to see me. He has promised to telegraph to Sydney and endeavor to get me an extension of three months leave which he said he managed for Colonel Roberts of the Artillery. He told me that Cracknell, and Combes had both arrived in England. And to my surprise mentioned that he believed Colonel Robert was not coming (going?) in command of the Permanent Force to (Sudan?). After being half an hour with him, I took a cab and drove to the Grosvenor Hotel at the Victoria Station to call on Sahl, the German Consul. I was kept waiting so long that I was obliged to leave without seeing him and went on to Regent St, had some tea and bread butter at Pastry Cooks, and then took cab to call on W.W. Brocklehurst, 1 Hyde Park Square, he was out, but I saw his wife, a very pleasing married woman, but much older than I imagined she would have been. I thought she was about 45 or abouts. It came on to pour with rain, took a cab and drove to Bond St, to Webb the Tailors, and then Lincoln & Beswick(?); Piccadilly where I ordered a hat to be made for me. Came home in a cab, Grace arriving at same time.
Mrs Loring called.
7th March 1885, Saturday
Felt unwell and weak, did not get up till 11. Dreadfully foggy day, could not see the sun, and bitterly cold. After lunch Grace and I went in a cab to the Stovins, to afternoon tea as the Hoskins (the Admiral and his wife) the Busby’s and others were expected to meet us. The only person who did come was General Hodgson (Frank) whom I had not seen for 42 years, at his brother’s Eden Vale, on the Darling Downs when he was about 17 or 18 and acted as storekeeper. His duties then being to weigh out rations for the different shepherds and (letters?) keep the books, make tallow candles &c. Since those times he had entered the Indian Army and became a Major General. He is very much altered since then, he is completely altered in appearances, grown stout, and has more the look of his brother Arthur as well as the tone of voice. He is not so tall either, but about 5 feet 9. He is married and has 5 children, one daughter a widow. His wife to his grief turned Roman Catholic. Stovin sent us home in his carriage. He is not very well. No wonder any one is ill having such depressing weather.
8th March 1885, Sunday
Did not get up till 12. The fog outside (and finding its way inside too) so thick and the room so dark, obliged to light the gas to get up by. The Drawing room and Coffee room also all lighted the whole day long. A most cheerless depressing climate this! And I long for the sunny skies of Australia, notwithstanding all I have hitherto said in praise of old England. I can well understand now how wealthy Australians prefer their native land!
We were expecting Lieutenant Carlisl(?) to call all day, he belongs to the 1st Battalion , Essex Regiment which is quartered at the Tower of London. I went after tea in a 4 wheeled cab to call on the Busby’s at Clayes St, Piccadilly, found them all at dinner and their room filled up with trunks and packages which have to be sent to the docks where their shop lies. Mrs Busby looks very well indeed. I had not seen her since she left Australia 2 or 3 years ago. Busby is much better then he was a few days ago.
9th March 1995, Monday
After lunch at 1, Grace and I went out, took an Omnibus to Kensington, and then not finding the direction took a cab and called on the Lorings, 25 Brunswick Gardens. They were not there. We walked to Linden Gardens to see Mrs Conran. She too was out. She is staying with her aunt, a Mrs McLachlan. On the way Grace bought a Waterproof cloak for £11. We returned to the Inn, and I went out by myself and called at Junior United Service Club on Captain Crofton R.N. As I went up the steps I inquired of a gentleman, whether I was right we both stared very much at each other, and then suddenly found out my friend to be Captain Walter Brydges, formerly of the “Wolverine.” Very glad to see me, and invited in taking me at the club, and have a glass of wine with him. In the part of the Dining room set apart for strangers. From thence I went to the Junior Athenaeum to call on Nele Loring who was out. This club house is at the corner of Down St, Piccadilly, and was built as a residence of Beresford Hope (of Beauty and the Beast Notoriety) Called afterwards at Empire Club and paid month’s subscription of £1.1.
10th March 1995, Tuesday
Grace and I lunched at Walter Brocklehurst’s, No.1 Hyde Park Square. Only Mrs Wolfen to meet us. Her husband lain up with cold. A very bleak day and foggy besides. I was (elulied?) we walked from the Brocklehurst’s and called on Mrs Atkinson (who has just had a son) and Miss Annie (Marsh, Mark?) at 79 Oxford Terrace, not far from Hyde Park Square. Mr and Mrs Stovin called after breakfast and then about 1, came Mrs Edward Wise, her son Teddy, and a nephew (Frank?) just arrived from Melbourne, in the Orient Steamer “Austral” having made a very quick voyage. The Brocklehurt’s house is a very nice one, his wife a very sensible, polite woman, and his children who took lunch with us, the best behaved one I ever saw. Perfectly still the whole time. He wants me to see his brother Edward who is a martyr and fool but notwithstanding was out today after being confined to the house for a fortnight, driving his “Carriage of 4” which is his hobby. He lives at Reigate, at the Manor House.
11th March 1885, Wednesday
My month, as an honorary member of the Empire Club was up today.
Grace and I lunched at Lady Samuel’s, Courtfield Gardens. Met there Mr and Mrs Dixon (of Holmwood) near Sydney, who was full of her son-in-law Colonel Richardson, having to go with the New South Wales Volunteers to Egypt. There was also a Miss Tanner there, a cousin of Mrs Le Patronel (née Durham). Her father was an Auctioneer, the firm being “Durham & Sumner.”
After lunch Lady Samuel took us for a drive round Hyde Park, and then with us to pay a farewell visit to the Busbys who sail tomorrow for Sydney.
Fearfully cold all day, and very gloomy, no sight of the sun, even for a moment.
Lady Samuel, Miss Samuel were polite in the extreme, and I find that her husband and herself are most popular with everyone, and particularly hospitable to all Australians who are constantly coming and going.
12th March 1885, Thursday
Still suffering from a slight bronchial attack or rather it has become less severe than it was. Received a letter from Fanny and Mrs M.H. Stephen of 28th January, by “Bathurst.” Fanny inclosed cuttings of newspaper as to Railway accident &c. Previously to receiving Fanny’s letter I wrote to her the “Thames,” in which the Busby’s sail today. I inclosed to Fanny, Miss Marsh-Caldwell’s, Susan Graham’s, Mrs Loring’s, and Mrs Crofton’s letter to us. Grace wrote to Marie and Cecil.
The Stovins called about 12, and I walked with them down Whitehall and as far as Westminster Chambers where we parted, as I had to see Sir Saul Samuel. I was closeted an hour with him, he telling me how he had been treated by New South Wales Government, he being the only Agent General left out of the list of Commissioners for the Exhibition of 1886, (Lessing having been appointed0 contrary to the Prince of Wales’ recommendation of himself. He was also greatly worried by (Kelly?) sending him an extract from the “Evening News” finding fault with the conduct of his offices, that strangers could get no information and that he was away at Bank Meetings as a Director. Dalley calls upon him for an explanation. He, Samuel, attributes this libel upon him and his office to Henrikes Heaton. Edward Hodgson called with a letter to Grace from his mother, asking us to Clifton on the 4th April. He told us he was to be married to Miss Constable whose sister is engaged in Sydney to Commander Erskine.
Carleton, a Lieutenant of the 1st Battalion Essex Regiment, a friend of Chris Russell’s, called late, just as I was starting in a cab to drive to the Goldsmiths Company. I was far from well, and feared increasing my bronchitis, but as this was a Banquet rarely seen by strangers I ventured, and I was glad to have witnessed such a scene. About 150 or 200 people sat down. There were three tables, the top one and two others at right angles. The Chairman was the Master Warden Page. I had been invited by Warden Lambert, a celebrated goldsmith in Covents Lane, a great antiquarian. On the right of the Chairman sat Admiral Sir John Hay, next to him Major General Gipps, son of Sir G Gipps (formerly Governor of New South Wales in 1840). Then came two or three of the Company, then myself, then Warden Lambert. On the left of the Chairman sat Sir John Mowbray, a distinguished Member of the House of Commons and many other members of the Goldsmiths Company. At the bottom of the table near were I sat was a Mr Aird who has just taken the contract for the (Lonakin?) Railway and next to him a Mr Lucas, another great Railway Contractor, his partner. Mr Aird not unlike Barnett, the Colonial Architect. The dinner was magnificent, two kinds of Turtle soup, four kinds of fish Souls, Trout, Salmon and Turbot, the wines particularly the Madeira excellent. The first toast proposed was the “Church, Queen and State,” all standing, the next Prince and Princess of Wales and “The next of the Royal Family.” It surprised me that this toast was received and responded with whilst sitting. Amongst the Company’s – so – rule. Then came the “Army and Navy’ responded to by the General Gipps and Admiral Sir John Hay, several others followed such as the Goldsmiths Company and Chairman proposed by a Mr Hawkins who looked like and spoke like a Barrister. After every toast had been duly honored a choir and 3 or 4 men sang items most beautifully. One boy, Charlton by name, had a most exquisite voice the like I never heard, the opee called (blank) taken from Ossian’s Poems, so riveted me that I spoke to Mr Lambert to see if he could find out where the music was to be procured, he immediately went up to Mr Winn the conductor, who politely gave it him for me, which necessitated my waltz up to the Dais where the singers were and thanking him for it. He is, I believe, the Choir Master at St Paul’s and the boys were the Choristers belonging to that cathedral under him. The room was lighted with magnificent chandeliers and on the tables numbers of Silver gilt candelabra, some of them having belonged to the former Duke of Buckingham, and were purchased at Stow, indeed several other of the large ornaments, some gold and some silver gilt came from thence also. On the side board was also displayed massive gold plate, which glittered with extreme brilliance. After dessert two (apparently) good deep round dishes, one filled with rose water, the other with Eau de Cologne were handed round, and each guest dipped the ends of the napkin in one or other of the dishes, and then applied it to his lips and face. After dinner we sallied forth into one of the Reception Rooms, where some very old silver was exhibited, presented to the Company by Warden Lambert, of immense value, sacramental cups of hundreds of years ago, 13 apostle spoons, which Lambert had once refused to sell to the American for 1000. A little round silver pot with a handle to it, which Doctors centuries ago carried about with them when visiting patients for the purpose of bleeding them, holding about a pint. I spoke to General Gipps, who seemed pleased to have a chat about Australia, and said how delighted he would be, to pay a visit to Sydney again.
13th March 1885, Friday
Awoke this morning with very severe pain in top of head, back of neck, sore throat tending to bronchitis which I only staved off by taking “Glykane” and rubbing in Bella donna on throat and chest. Felt altogether weak and indisposed. Could not get up till 12, and shortly after took a cab and drove to Stovins, 59 Warwick Square to lunch. After lunch his carriage took us to the Victoria Station where I made inquiries as to the train to Rochester tomorrow. It goes at 2.5 and reaches Rochester at 3.5, just an hour. Fare first class return ticket lasting four days 6/9 each person.
14th March 1885, Saturday
Had lunch at the Inn, and left in cab for Victoria Station. On the way passed St James’ Palace where a levee was being held by the Prince of Wales, at which from the circumstance of carriages and cabs blocking up the way, rendered it doubtful how far we should not be delayed and lose our train. By a miracle we did not and left by the Dover & Chatham Railway (Fare being 6/9 each) at 2.30 reaching Rochester where we were going to stay with Captain and Mrs Crofton, at 3.50. He was there to meet us and had a carriage to take us to his house (cert return?) St Margarets Road, this about 20 miles from London. Grace and I were present at his Father’s (Captain Crofton R.A.) marriage with Miss Marsh at Eastbury in 1848. His wife (being married a year or so) was a daughter of Sir (blank) Lefroy, formerly Governor of Tasmania. We were received most kindly and hospitably, and they both took us out for a stroll first to the celebrated ruin, Rochester Castle, and then the Cathedral, the outside of which the stonework and carved figures bear the marks of Cromwell’s soldiers, many of the heads been ruthlessly destroyed. I never saw such a sight of tame pigeons as found at the gateway by the old castle and which are so constantly fed by children and young people as to induce them four or five at a time to cluster round them on the tops of their heads and shoulders, and eating out of their hands. I suppose there must have been 4 or 500 at one time and there are many more hundreds about. I found today Rochester stands on the Medway, which under a high tide presents a very muddy appearance, particularly the banks.
At 7 o’clock a Captain and Mrs Mayne, he of the Royal Engineers came to dinner to meet us, young married people living a short distance away. He has a staff appointment.
Rochester and Chatham adjoin, in fact may be called one Town, and both are full of Historical events. One house near the Cathedral was pointed out to me as where Queen Elizabeth slept and was so satisfied with her entertainment that it received then and has since kept the name of “Sates house.” Another enormous old house, a two storied brick one, kept up in admirable preservation, is where Charles II slept the evening before the Restoration, and further on is a remarkable little Church, at he end of which stands a circular window or turret, through which Leper in days of yore, were put through.
Next to the Cathedral almost adjoining, stands the Parish Church of St Nicholas, which was (owing to some cabal amongst the Priests of the day) created in opposition as it were, or perhaps more correctly speaking, such party wished to have its own way in the management of it affairs, and neither would give way, and so the Church was built. Another thing worthy of notice about Rochester is that many of the places described by Dickens in Pickwick are taken from this reality. The duel scene 1. and many of the names intr---(?) were taken from the tomb stones scattered around. I saw one myself, the name of Dorrett which Dickens spells ‘Dorritt” with an i, instead of an e.
15th March 1885, Sunday
Got up at 8, and had breakfast at 8.30.I felt much better, and my cold and bronchitis nearly gone. The sun shone brightly and no appearance of the London Fog. At 10.30, at which time service commenced, we walked to the Cathedral, which seemed crowded, though the Church was nicely warmed by stoves, yet after the 2nd lesson (read by Canon (blank)) a severe coughing fit came on, which necessitated my leaving the Church, and I walked outside the old burial ground in the hope of discovering some of my ancestors, the Marshs who are buried in Rochester somewhere, amongst others my Great Grandfather Milbourne Marsh who was once Commissioner of the Dockyard of Chatham. I was not able get in the Grave yard and only scanned it from outside the rails. My cold and cough seemed to be getting worse, and I had to recourse to homeopathic treatment, Bella Donna and Aconite alternately which considerably relieved the symptoms. We had an early dinner and in the afternoon I was reading a lecture which Crofton had delivered some short time ago at the Mechanics Institute, on New South Wales, which was a most truthful account, strange to say he has never been in Australia and all his information was derived from books on the Colony.
16th March 1885, Monday
Had breakfast at 9. I have subdued the relapse of cold and cough I anticipated yesterday. Crofton, who has a Staff Appointment on board H.M.S. Pembroke in Chatham Dockyards had to leave at 8, so we had breakfast without him. About 10 we walked down to the new Brompton Railway with Mrs Crofton who was to act as our guide to Chillingham (Gillingham?) Church (about 3 miles) where five tablets have been erected to the memory of several of the Marsh family. Old George Marsh, Commissioner of the Navy, William Marsh the Banker, Arthur Cuthbert Marsh (the grandfather of Captain Crofton) and one or two others. The Arms and crest of the Marsh family seemed to reign paramount in the Church. I tried here to find out if my Great Grandfather was buried here also, but I did not succeed in my endeavour, though Mrs Eyneford Lefroy has promised to speak to the Rector (who is totally blind, though not from eye ?) and ask his help in the matter. The distance from the Railway to the Church is near ¾ of a mile but as we wished to economise our time, I took a 4 wheeled cab there and back to railway. On returning to Rochester we first had lunch, and then got a carriage and in company with Mrs Crofton drove to Chatham Dockyard where Crofton met us and escorted us first of all to where three men of war were being built, one an iron clad to be called the “Hero”, another the “Severn” and a third I forgot the name of. On the way through the Dockyard Crofton pointed out where the Admirals house was, a large two storied brick house, which was the same house where my Great Grandfather (as Commissioner) resided. We all got into the cab and drove to the furthermost end of the Dockyard and first of all went on board a new ship, an iron clad, the “Ajax” about 8,000 tons (sister ship of the ‘Agamemnon” we saw coming through the Suez Canal) Crofton took us all over it, and I went with him into the moveable turret, which was worked round for my edification, and the large guns moved upwards and downwards, and in and out of the Port hole by hydraulic means with as much ease as if they had been the smallest gun imaginable. After this we went on board his ship “The Pembroke,” which is a sort of hulk alongside of the jetty, and covered in with a roof. At a little before 5 we were driven to the Railway Station at Chatham and arrived in London a little before 6. At 8 went to the Lecture given by Sir F Napier Broome on Western Australia presided over by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. Saw E. Hodgson there, also Dr Atherton of Sydney, and Miss Brown, our fellow passenger. Much disappointed with lecture and lecturer.
17th March 1885, Tuesday
Did not get up till 10.30. Found it so cold and feeling moreover very unwell. At 12, Grace and I sallied out, first of all to Lincoln & Bennetts, the corner of Sackville St, Piccadilly, where I have ordered a hat to be made. From thence we walked up to Bond St and went to inspect the Pictures painted by Edwin Long R.A., and particularly his last which has created quite a sensation, called “Anno Domini.” A very large one 16 feet by 8 feet. On the left the Pyramids are seen, and far off an Egyptian Temple, a Palm grove occupies part of the back ground. Out of the gate of “Pylon” a long and gorgeous procession sweeping in honor of the Gods of Egypt, the sacred - - , a chariot with the (curse depautana?) preceded by the bearer of Idols, then a Band of white robed Priests, walking 3 and 3. The central objects of the Procession is the golden image of the Goddess Isis bearing on her knees her son. The whole procession headed by a band of brightly appareled and jeweled female minstrels, walking 3 by 3, all exquisite models of womankind. But all these are subordinate to the principal group of the picture, in the foreground being that of the Holy family, St Joesph with the Virgin Mary and the child Jesus. The Virgin seated on ass, robed in a dress of dark blue linen; and going in the direction opposite to that of the Procession. It may be said to be a “contrast of Heathendom and Christianity.” It is a most impressive picture and the coloring natural and harmonious. Tow other pictures by the same artist “Merah” by Michal (Lambs daughter) are also excellent but still better did I like were two large pictures each 8 x 6 feet, the “Search for Beauty” and “The Chosen(?) Fire” taken from the story related by Cicero of the painter Zeuxis of Heradea having to paint Helen desired the attendance of all the maidens of the city for the inspection of the artist, who thereupon selected five “As he knew he could find no single form possessing all the characteristics of Beauty. There was also another fine picture “A Question of Propriety,” or “Before the Holy Inquisition,” a similar picture by the same artist I saw in the Melbourne Gallery, which I think was even superior to this one, in coloring particularly.
After leaving the gallery we crossed over Bond St and went to the “Dore Gallery” (No.35) to see the last picture he painted before his death, called the “Vale of Tear.” It is an immense picture, length 21 feet, height 14 feet. The background represents “the Vale of Tears,” a shadowy valley, full of dimly defined foliage, flanked by an enormous crag, at the entrance of the valley stands the Saviour clothed in white, bearing a cross, with hand upraised as if in appeal “Come unto me all ye that labour,” &c. The middle and foreground are filled with typical figures representing the “- - “and “heavy laden” one of the Earth. I must say however, I prefer “Christ Leaving the Pretorium” (20 feet height by 30 feet wide) which was three years in painting, or rather from 1867 to 1872, and during the siege of Paris when the Franco-Prussian War broke out, it was carefully folded up and buried in a place of security. The scene is laid at the time of Christ walking down the steep stairs from the Hall called the Praetorium of “Golgotha.” The Night of the Crucifixion,” “Dream of Pilotes Wife,” “The Neophyte” and the “Day Dream” are the best of the 41 pictures in the gallery.
From thence we crossed over again to the other side of Bond St and inspected an art gallery of Mr Sureplus, where all sorts of curiosities are exhibited of the (clu--?) of which was a collection of lovely painted miniatures by the celebrated painted “Cosway.” They were all - - in a glass case, somewhere about 100, many of them being engraved in a Book which was placed close at hand as a guide as to who the miniatures were. I learnt from the man in charge that he believes Joseph had given £25,000 for them at various times. One miniature resembled in touch of coloring and dress that of my grandmother Marsh, whose likeness painted by Cosway I have a home. On our return home down Regent St we met Captain Watson R.N. who told us he had just left his wife (nee Fischer) at the dress makers, where she was trying on her Court dress preparatory to being presented at Court tomorrow to the Queen.
At 7.30 Grace and I went to the Pantomime at Drury Lane Theatre, “Whittington and his Coat,” the name of the piece.
Received letters from Australia today, of (blank) date.
1 from Fanny, 1 from Milly, 1 from Marie, 1 from Plunkett (saying that three months extension of leave to 31st October would be granted to me) 1 from Neville Dowling.
19th March 1885, Wednesday
Did not get up till 11, felt very tired and very unwell. We went by Underground Railway to Addison Road, 6d each, and took a cab from thence to Paterson’s No.41 Wilton Lodge. Lunch with them meeting Miss Bowling, Mrs Hawkins’s sister. At 3 o’clock we went for a drive in his carriage round Hyde Park to witness the carriages returning from the Drawing Room, which the Queen held today. Mrs Paterson, Miss Bowling, Grace and I were the occupants. We kept driving up and down the whole time till after 5 o’clock. Strange to say I espied the Reverend Stanley Mitchell, formerly Incumbent of Waverly, standing near Apsley House gateway or arch, with his two daughters, evidently attracted there for the same reason as we were, and after I caught and exchanged bows with Mrs Kent, seated in her one horse Brougham (I mean Mrs Kent, who lived near us at Elyden(?) on the Edgecliff Road). The number of carriages was surprising, and some of the horses were superb creatures. But on the whole I do not think the one horse Broughams are at all like the handsome old carriages with hammer cloths, and two or three powdered footmen standing behind which were more universally used 36 years ago, then now. Mrs Paterson at our request on leaving Hyde Park drove us to Brunswick Garden (No.26) to call on Mr and Mrs Loring. His mother was a Miss Marsh. He was formerly in the Navy, and once on board H.M.S. “Tammalaine.” Has left it now, and is Private (Secretary?) to Honorable Mr R. R. Forster M.P. He appears a pleasant gentlemany young fellow. His wife a young woman and I do not think they have been married long. We left them after 6 and walked to the Underground Railway Station, not far off, and got to Charing Cross Station and had dinner at the Inn at 7.30.
Grace not feeling very well.
I was particularly struck whilst driving round and round today at the number of carriages and people, and strange to say at the scarcity of pretty or even nice looking ones even. I did not see one really nice looking girl. Another thing I observed was the frequency of the young girls both riding in carriages and walking wearing glasses, as this suffering from impaired sight, even children of 8 or 9 years - - with spectacles. I find that notice has already been taken of this peculiarity, and Mrs Paterson tells me that Doctors attribute this defect of vision to be attributable to young girls painting pictures and plaques and having to peer into the subject from which they are copying.
20th March 1885, Thursday
Got up to breakfast at 10 o’clock. Afterwards Grace and I sallied out, first of all to Bond St, to the hair dressers, Douglas’, where she had her hair put in order. Afterwards we walked into Regent Street, on to Coventry St, and called at Lamberts, the Jeweller to get her Bracelet that had to be repaired. Went back to the Inn, had lunch, and then sallied out again by District Railway from Charing Cross to Sloane St, where she went to look at capes and at Leaman’s 199 Sloane St. We returned by Omnibus to Strand just in time for me to dress for dinner, having been invited by Warden Lambert, to the Pattern Maker’s Banquet at 6.30, held at the Venetian Hall, in Holborn. About 200 people sat down, Lambert as Chief Warden the Chairman, and a very good Chairman he made. On his right sat the Lord Mayor, next the Sheriff Whitehead, and lower down the Under Sheriff. On his left sat a remarkable looking old man, 83 years of age, Sir W Carden M.P., who stated he had lived in London 65 years. Next to him Sir W. Charley Q.C. then came another Under Sheriff, a young man (named Metcalfe) very like George Mitter. Next to me sat a Mr Segwick who said he knew Dr (or as he called him) Professor Bennett of Sydney. The dinner was excellent, two kinds of turtle soup, two kinds of fish (Salmon and Whitebait) after desserts Toasts were proposed and after the Loyal ones “Church and Queen,” drank standing, “Prince of Wales and remaining members of the Royal Family,” drank seated. Then came the Mayor and Alderman. The Mayor spoke well, he was formerly a photographer by the name of Notton, I think. Then came the Sheriffs, only one returned thanks, the other having made off to avoid a speech. Instead of the Toast the “Army and Navy” as usually proposed, the Chairman proposed the Navy (first) and Army coupled with the Marines, and the Reserve Forces! I forgot who returned thanks for the two firs but Sir Phillip Charles Q.C., as Colonel of the latter did for his body. After each Toast there were songs and glees by two ladies, Miss Belevat and Miss (Evehform?) the latter had a beautiful voice and a very pretty girl, two sisters, one playing the violin, the other accompanying, by the name of Molineux, the former a sweetly pretty girl of about 18. The Miss Molineux, daughters of one of Lamberts employees, to whom at Lambert’s request a Bouquet, with a Bracelet attached, was handed to each, as a compliment for their services this night.
I caught a very severe cold, or rather renewed it, and came home notwithstanding of bronchitis.
Whilst looking in at one of the shop windows in the Strand we were addressed from behind by Mrs Roberts, wife of C.J. Roberts C.M.G., who only arrived last night from Australia, by Ballant(?) and are staying at the Grand Hotel, Charing Cross. She had three of her daughters with her.
21st March 1885, Friday
Awoke with severe cold and bronchitis. Did not get up till 1, and never went outside of the house all day. In the evening whilst seated in the Drawing room of the Inn common to all the residents, a young woman of about 27 years of age, and of decided Jewish features and voice, opened the conversation upon the subject of Jews generally and the Jewish Religion. At the same time trying to impress me with the fact of her not having much knowledge of or intimacy with the Jews, and asking my opinion about them, which I gave most forwardly. The conversation changed to the Lunatic Asylums, she expressing herself as believing there were many under restraint who were improperly placed there by their friends or relations and then as she warmed with this subject, related her own experience in the matter. She stated that her father was an Admiralty contractor, and that as a girl (being quick and sharp in writing and accounts) had constantly assisted her father, who often employed her to write business letters for him to Whitehall, and that he was very fond of her as she was of him, that he could never get her brothers (who was in a Solicitors office) to assist him. That last year her father died, and she took it so much to heart, that she never slept for two months, and brought on a case of brain fever, which the Doctors (at the insistence of her brother) pronounced to be madness. And that she was taken to a private Lunatic Asylum, at Maidstone where she was treated as a lunatic, at one time place in a seclusion cell by herself, by one of the attendant nurses. At another time in a padded cell contrary to the orders of the Doctor. But her walking outside the house were taken within four high walls, and in the society of other lunatic ladies. That the association(?) and the grief she was in so completely paralysed her that she could not imagine where she had been brought. That she was under the impression her mother was dead, that the nurse had told her she had no rights to be so shut up, that all that she had really suffered from was brain fever. She was discharged last November. She related she had property of her own, rent from houses &c. but her brother had written out a Will for her to sign, which he would not let her read, and insisted on her signing it. - - it was taken up and burnt. She asked me if I thought there was any stigma attached to her in having been in a Lunatic asylum as her mother had told her if she ever married she would have to mention beforehand the fact of her having been in a Lunatic Asylum. About 9.30 a man of about 40, a German by his accent, was ushered up by the waiter, as her visitor, and shortly after she put on her bonnet and coat, and went out with him.
I strongly recommended her to place her affairs in the hands of a Solicitor at once who would collect her rents and protect her pension in case of any future charge of insanity against her, and if she did marry to have her property settled on her by Trustees, and if the man who came to see her just now, is the person she thinks of marrying, I should say by his physiognomy he is just the adventurer who would speedily shut her up after marriage, for the purpose of getting her money. She carefully abstained from giving me her name. I have found out from the Barmaid it is “LeStrange.” Grace obliged to send a telegram and letter to Mrs Molineux saying I was too unwell to pay her a visit to “Eastbourne” where we had been invited to stay till Monday.
21st March 1885, Saturday (again?)
My cold and bronchitis still hanging about me, and the weather so cold and foggy as to render it inadvisable my going out of doors. Sent another telegram to Mrs Molineaux letting telling her I was so unwell from cold and bronchitis that I could not leave London, and go to Eastbourne at present. Did not get up till 10 o’clock today and had lunch at 2.
22nd March 1885, Sunday
Cold and bronchitis still bad, and as the snow was lying on the ground and roofs of the house, and still continuing to come down in large flakes, I did not get up till 1 o’clock. Felt very chilly all day, and draughts of cold air through the long corridor at the Inn, were most provocative for influenza.
23rd March 1885, Monday
Did not go out all day. My cold and bronchitis still troubling me. Had breakfast in bed an did not get up till 1 o’clock. Mr and Mrs Bray called, only he came in as Grace was out looking for dress cape at Ludlow & Graham.
24th March 1885, Tuesday
Grace went by herself in a cab to the dressmakers who is making Lena Stephen’s wedding dresses. Meeting Lady Smith and her daughter there on the same errand. Grace returned by lunch. In the afternoon Miss Wise with her niece Minnie Wise called to see us. And remained nearly an hour chatting. Miss Wise very much improved in her old age, very conversible, and her niece a handsome girl.
Wrote to Susan Graham (nee Downman).
Later in the evening Mrs Hambro,’ Campbell Yorke’s sister called. At ¼ after 7 we ordered a Brougham from the Livery Stables, to take us to the dinner at Lady Samuels, 15 Courtfield Gardens, at ¼ to 8; owing to the blunder of the Coachman, he drove us towards Paddington and did not discover his mistake till 10 minutes to 8, we were then a long distance off, but he put his horses out, at a speed of 10 miles an hour, and arrived fortunately before the guests had left the Drawing Room. The Samuels very polite. Sir Saul took Grace down to dinner. Dr Krauch (the German Consul) took Lady Samuel. I, Mrs Garrick, the wife of the Agent General of Sydney, whilst he took Mrs W.O. Gilchrist (nee Vinise?) J.B. Watt who goes to Sydney on Thursday, took Mrs Kent, Coombes having just arrived from Sydney took a Bride, Mrs Woodhouse, whilst Mr Woodhouse took Miss Coombes. Gilchrist took a Melbourne lady, whose husband took a lady who had somewhat of a Jewish appearance. Very good dinner, a long line of flowers on both sides and the full length of the table, on glass reflectors. Left at ¼ to 11. None the worse and did not increase my cold. Wrote a long letter to Milly by Mail Steamer, also to Wise.
25th March 1885, Wednesday
Got up at 11, my cold neither better nor worse. Very cold. After lunch Grace and I went by Underground Railway to High St, South Kensington, to call on Lady Murray, who was laid up in bed with asthma. Saw her with Miss Edward. Grace went afterwards in a cab to the Musgraves who were out, and came home by herself in a cab, 4/-. I went back by myself first to my tailors in Hanover St, (Joel Edwards). Got measured there and found one of the assistants a cousin of the late Exton whom I employed for years in Sydney as my tailor till he died. Went after to Empire Club, and took a ticket for the Annual house dinner on 1st April. I think Stovin is going. Received Australian letters from Fanny and Marie by Steamer “Indus” of 1st February date. The Stovins called whilst we were out and afterwards wrote to ask us to lunch with him on Saturday at 1.30. Sent photograph of Jack to Mrs Despard(?) Graham. Jack’s birthday today, 6 years old today.
26th March 1885, Thursday
Little Marie’s birthday, 3 years old today. The Stovins called in the evening. After breakfast Grace and I walked to Hatton Gardens, to Max Singar’s, the Glass Manufacturer, as we were commissioned by Mrs M.H. Stephen to choose glass ornaments for the diner table as a wedding present for her daughter Lina. At first we were told, that they did not sell by retail, but if we belonged to a Co-operative Store, they could. The difficulty however, was easily got over by my saying I came from the Colony of New South Wales. We had a great variety of glass to choose from, and ultimately selected one of a quite a new fashion, color and design, and which had only a few minutes before been sent in from the Manufactory. The pedestal of glass is a beautiful design, and the china stands for the centre and four for the corners, of delicate colored hue, and mostly off to white. It is to cost £6.6. Besides freight, insurance, and case. Went to a jeweler and chose a pearl pin for Marie, as a gift to Lina (£1.7). Marie had limited us to £2.2. Grace very tired after her days walk. I went out afterwards to find out Lord Carrington’s address at Whitehall but did not succeed. My bronchitis something better, though still hanging about me, and compelled to tie a handkerchief over my mouth whenever I go out of doors.
27th March 1885, Friday
Grace not well enough to get up to breakfast. I got up at 10. Afterwards left my card on Lord Carrington, 8 Whitehall Yard. Thence to (Frufills?) to have my hair cut. Home to lunch at 2.30, and then went out with Grace to National Gallery and saw Dr Atherton arriving from thence. Also Barnett, Colonial Architect in the earlier parts of the morning. Went in afternoon to Lincoln & Bennett hatters, and met Dr Atherton again purchasing a hat. My bronchitis better but I still were a handkerchief over my mouth, whenever I - - . The painters and white washers are a great trouble to people staying at the Inn.
Passengers from Gibraltar
Mrs White and 2 children
Miss Lyon, daughter of Colonel Lyons
Mrs Agar, widow
Mr – Army surgeon
Mr Telegraph Manager
Mr H.M. 52nd Regiment.
Tuesday 2nd February
Port Said 14.6
Wine consumed by us on board “Ganges” from 12th December 1884
2 bottles of Mascala 5
3 ditto 7.6
5 ditto 12.6
2 ditto 5 (6th 9th Jan 1895)
3 ditto 7 (14th or 17th Jan 1885)
Dr Beatties Remedy
Bella Donna Lotion for all colds, bronchitis and coughs, and the remedy to be rubbed in the spine.
28th March 1885, Saturday
Went at 11, to Dr Dickenson’s, 9 Chesterfield St, May Fair, consulted him again for the 3rd time, paid him £1.1. He thinks I am decidedly better, and still firmly adheres to his first opinion that my malady is not in any way connected with the Brain, perfectly exterior to the head, and attributable to Rheumatic gout, and he still desires me to continue the same medicine he prescribed together with the Iron. Grace and I lunched at the Storms, at 1, he sent his carriage for us, and sent us back in it, in the evening. Sir Frank, Lady Villeneuve Smith called at the Stovins whilst we (were) there. A fine day on the whole, though a fog came on in the evening. My Bronchitis better, but still the remains of it hanging about me.
29th March 1885, Friday
Did not have breakfast till 11, after a late lunch Grace and I went to see Lady Murray, we arrived there about 6, found she had been in bed some days with Bronchitis, saw her sister and young Murray who is going to the Bar, he is grown very tall, upwards of 6 feet, and bears a strong likeness to his father, Sir Terence. There were three or 4 persons (this being one of Lady Murray’s days ‘at home’) when we got there and afterwards came Mr, Mrs Randolph Warb, (she the widow of Wilkins who is still very good looking) and at 7 o’clock Grace went with Miss Edward to (blank) Church to hear Canon Farer who preaches to crowded congregations which necessitates going early before the Service commences in order to ensure getting a seat. On their return from Church, we had a cold supper and to which came, I presume, pupils of Lady Murray, a Miss Matthuen and 2 Miss (blank), all pretty girls. Unfortunately immediately after their supper they went upstairs to the bed rooms, with an old German Governess, and we saw them no more. We returned to the High St, Kensington District Railway at 10.30, and reached the Hotel about 11. My bronchitis much better today, which though fine was yet cold.
30 March 1885, Monday
Got up to breakfast at 10 o’clock. Immediately after I went to Australian Joint Stock Bank, 2 King William Street, City, and drew another 100 out, or rather had it placed to my credit in their books. Returned to Hotel and had lunch at 2, and afterwards Grace and I went by District Railway to call and (have?) parcel at Sir V and Lady Smith’s, and then to Lady Samuel’s, who was out. We fancied that today was her “Reception” day, but it is on Thursday. We also called at Baileys Hotel, on the Dixons but found they had left that Hotel, and the Porter could not give us their present address. We then walked on to Cronly Place, to see Mrs Barker, but she was laid up with cold, and we only left cards. On our return called at Waterloo House, Charing Cross, to pay a Bill. Mr E. Wise and Alexander called in the evening on Grace. They were going to the Adelphi Theatre. Another fine day, my bronchitis better.
31st March 1885, Tuesday
Shortly after breakfast Mr Brocklehurst called to see me, he was shown into the Coffee Room, and therefore did not see Grace. He tells me he is summoned at one of the Courts on the Jury, and has to wait attendance there from day to day, much to his inconvenience and annoyance. Captain W. Bridges R.N. (formerly of “Wolverine”) called also, but we did not see him, the Porter having orders to say not at home to all new visitors, owing to the Painting and Varnishing that is going on from top to bottom of the Hotel. Not only annoying but rather dangerous to ladies dresses as they go up and down the staircase. Beautiful day but cold. At 3 o’clock having got an order of Admission to the House of Commons (from Mr Ponsonby the Speaker’s Secretary) through Mrs Hambro, I drove down in a cab, and was ushered into the Speaker’s Gallery. There were not more than 50 or 60 members present, after viewing about two hours a frightful coughing fit came on and I was obliged to leave, and my bronchitis seized me again.
1st April 1885, Wednesday
Had breakfast at 10, and immediately after went up in an Omnibus to the Mansion House. Saw the Secretary of the Lord Mayor, gave him my written acceptance of their invitation to dinner on Monday the 13th at the Grand (Garden?) Banquet, and got him to put my correct name on another card, they having incorrectly addressed me as “Mr Marsh Milner” which was done without trouble. Was shown over the court where Petty Sessions are held. A very small court indeed and which they never open for 12 o’clock each day. Sir Andrew Lash was to preside today, but I could not stop, as we had to go to Turnham Green to lunch at Mrs E. Wise at 1 o’clock. Grace and I immediately on my return from the City went by District Railway to Turnham Green, and on getting out of the train we met Geddy’s (who married Miss Morrison), who was also going to lunch at Mrs G. Wise’s to meet us. We found assembled Mrs Selby and her daughter (she a daughter of old John Wise, formerly of Bathurst) Also Miss Annie Wise (Wise’s sister) and Minnie Wise. They with ourselves comprised the party. I had to hurry back to London as I was going to dine at the Empire Club at 7.30. Stovin drove down in his carriage and took me to the Club, and he and I got very good comfortable seats near the head of the table. The Chair was occupied by Lord Thurlow, on his right sat Sir W Tupple, High Commissioner of Canada, next to him Sir Samuel Cooper Bart, and at the side Murray South, Agent General for Melbourne, then Stovin, then myself and next to me a Reporter on the “Times.” On the left of the Chairman sat Lord Carrington, the new Governor of New South Wales, next to him Sir Saul Samuel, and at the end (opposite Murray Smith) Sir Frederick Broome, Governor of Western Australia, opposite me sat a young man named Woodhouse, of New South Wales, he married a daughter of the late Arch Thompson (the wine merchant) and who we met at Sir Samuel’s dinner party. I was (at his request) introduced to Lord Carrington who is quite a young man, not very much over 33 or 35, very pleasant manners and told me that all his servants, every one of them, petitioned him to take them out to Australia with him.
(insert – newspaper clipping – Dinner to Lord Carrington
Last evening, Sir Saul Samuel, K.C.M.G. (Agent-General for New South Wales), gave a congratulatory dinner to Lord Carrington (the newly appointed Governor of New South Wales) at Bailey’s Hotel, Gloucester Road, South Kensington. The banquet was served in the large room, one of the recent additions to the hotel, the tables being decked by a profusion of flowers. Covers were laid for 108 persons. A selection of the leading musicians of the Royal Horse Guards band was in attendance, and, conducted by Mr. C. Godfrey, the band-master, performed during the entertainment. Sir Saul Samuel presided, supported on the right by Lord Carrington, the Duke of Bedford, K.G., and the Duke of Manchester, K.P., and on the left by the Earl of Derby, K.G., the Marquis of Lorne, K.T., and the Earl of Kimberley. There were also present the Earl of Dalhousie, K.T., the Earl of Belmore, K.C.M.G.; the Earl of Wemyss, the Earl of Morely, the Earl of Camperdown, Lord Thurlow, Lord Fitz-Gerald, Mr. W.E. Forster, M.P.; the Hon. Evelyn Ashley, M.P.; Bishop of Bathurst, the Hon. Robert M. Meade, Admiral Sir Astley Cooper Key, G.C.B., A.D.C.; Major General Sir Andrew Clarke, etc.
2nd April 1885, Thursday
My bronchitis much better, though whenever I go out I am obliged to tie a handkerchief over my mouth to prevent my inhaling the bleak Easterly wind which seems to find me out in a most especial manner. After breakfast at 10, I went into Bond St, to pay Tessier the Jeweler, then in to the Empire Club to pay my month’s subscription as an Honorary Member up to 11th May. And also to see if I had dropped my silk cap there last night. Fortunately they had found it, and put it away in safety.
After 2 o’clock lunch, Grace and I went to return visits, first of all we called on the W.V. Gilchrists who live at 100 Queens Gate, they were not there. On to Captain Bridges at Stanhope Gardens, they were out. Then we drove through the Park crossing the Bayswater Road to call on Miss Mort and Mrs Atkinson, at Oxford Terrace. Found them both in, the former much impressed with spirituals, and wishing to visit Mrs Barnes when I got to see him. Just as we were leaving Major and Mrs Dowling (nee Flo Lamb, Walter Lamb’s daughter) called, they have just come home by the (blank) which brought Commodore Erskine, Mrs Constable, Lady Soames (Irons?) Captain Dale, Mrs Maxwell, Mrs Bouverie, Miss Robertson, and also Mr and Mrs Steel (nee Doyle) who have been staying at this Inn for a day or two, and made rather free comments on their various passengers. From the Morts, we called on Mr and Mrs Bray (my fellow passengers by the “Ganges”) at Marshall Thompson’s Hotel, Cavendish Square. From thence Grace and I walked home to the Hotel. At 7 o’clock young Carleton, a Lieutenant of the 44th Regiment (stationed at the Tower) dinned with us, and stayed till 10. He is Chris Russells great friend, and is a nice gentlemany young man.
3rd April 1885, Friday
Got up at 10. Packing our boxes till 12.30 as we go to Clopton tomorrow. Much disappointed in trying on the suit of clothes I ordered. I was recommended by Johns. They are the most abominably cut clothes I ever saw. I have sent them back. At 2 o’clock we lunched at Stovins and afterwards I called on Sir Clinton Murdoch, 88 St George’s Square, about ½ a mile from Stovins. Of course he could not recognize me at 36 years absence, nor should I have known him, he says he is 84 years of age. His sister married my uncle the late Reverend George A Marsh of Bangor Rectory, and I called to see if he heard anything about my cousins (his nephews) George and Augustus. The first was in H.M. 55th Regiment and the other in H.M. 23rd. He tells me that George is dead, and his widow lives near Ilfracombe, that the other two, (Anthony and Augustus) are still living in Denbighshire, near Wrexham though he has not seen them for years, and very seldom hears. He also informed me that his, Sir Clinton’s, eldest son is a Colonel in the Royal Artillery, and two of his daughters are married, one to Lord (Grosvenor?), the other too to a Barrister of the name of Cowan. I did not see Lady Murdoch as she (he said) had gone to afternoon Church. Sir Clinton says he is a great friend of Sir Charles Wickham.
(note inserted in journal – Re “Clopton”
Built in the time of Henry VII, at the back is a porchway entrance across the ancient moat, which at one time surrounded the hose, through which Shakespeare often passed. The South and East part was constructed by Sir E. Walker in the time of Charles 2nd, about the year 1662. Walker died in the house in 1677, and buried in Stratford Church. He was Garter King of Arms and Secretary of War. Walker went over to Holland in 1649 to convey to Charles 2nd the news of the execution of his father. Fifty years ago Clopton House was falling in to decay and was repaired by the then owner, Mr Ward, who added the Drawing rooms and Conservatory. The attic story was formerly used as a chapel, and where a number of goods of one Ambrose Rothwood, one of the Gunpowder Conspirators, who lived here at the time, 1605, were seized and forfeited to the Crown. Some consider that the play of “Taming of the Shrew” may be supposed to be represented at Clopton House. The interest which attaches to the place is owing to its connection with the Gunpowder Plot, and the association with Shakespeare. On the floor in the room adjoining the Chapel are some large blood stains, where a horrible murder is said to have been committed, and the story goes that the victim has walked ever since. At the rear of the garden is a succession of fish ponds, and beyond a spring in which Margaret Clopton is supposed to have drowned herself. It is now arched over and is called Lady Margarets Well. On a stone at the back are inscribed the initials S.J.C. probably those of Sir John Clopton, who died in 1692, and inclosed the well. He is was who had new fronted Clopton House and decorated the North bow window of the dining room with the armorial bearing of the family in stained glass for 4 generations. The Cloptons took their surname from the Manor, and resided here for 500 years. Clopton was granted by Peter de Montford to John de Clopton in the reign of Henry the 3rd, (about 1236). In the times of Edward 1st Walter Clopton assumed the home of Cockfield, but after 80 years his grandson John, re-assumed the surname of Clopton! This John Cockfield was the father of Hugh, a celebrated merchant who became Lord Mayor of London in 1492, he it was who built Clopton House where he received Henry VII, on several occasions, built New Place, where Shakespeare lived and died!
Joyce or Jocosa Clopton was daughter and co-heiress of William Clopton and born in 1558. She was Lady in waiting to Queen Elizabeth… (two more page file 829)
4th April 1885, Saturday
Beautiful day, but still a cold Easterly wind blowing. Grace packing away several boxes we are going to leave behind us at the Inn. We found however, we had accumulated more things sine we had been in London than our boxes would hold, which necessitated my going out to the Strand and buying an additional one of 1.10. We left with the Innkeeper 1st this new trunk, 2nd my portmanteau, 3rd Grace’s large wicker basket trunk, 4th her bonnet box, hat in box, Railway Bag, old great coat, and old Macintosh.
Paid Hotel Bill, up to last night. Today had breakfast and lunch and immediately after sent of a cab to take us to Paddington Station at 12.20. We were just half an hour, and paid the man 2/6. We took tickets for Stratford on Avon, by first class for which we paid 17/3 each. We left the station precisely at 1. A long train, numbers of passengers going way for the Easter holidays. We passed through Maidenhead, saw Windsor Castle in the distance. Then through Reading, Oxford, Banbury (where we purchased some of the renowned Banbury cakes which we enjoyed). Leamington, where we changed our carriage, and went by a loop line to Stratford on Avon, which we reached about 5, having been delayed on the road by one of the axles of the carriages becoming heated and having to be taken off. We espied Frank Hodgson (now a Major General) in another carriage, but on our arrival at Stratford, we all got out and went by the private omnibus sent by Hodgson to meet us. Te distance to Clopton a little over a mile. On the way we could not help being struck with the careful way in which all the fields were ploughed. The number of small canals, which constantly came into view or alongside of the train. The very small hedges, the number of cross Railway lines intersecting each other, some going overhead, and the general picturesqueness of the scenery generally. Hodgson me us at the station, and welcomed us to Clopton. Mrs Hodgson, her daughters Lilly ( a fine, intelligent brightsome girl of about 20, and her brother Edward being now the only inmates. Clopton is a very old place, built in the time of Henry VII though some of the rooms, the Drawing room especially having been added to the place since it was first built. It belonged to a family by the name of Clopton, then to the Wards, Walkers &c. Hodgson purchased it some 12 or 15 years ago with all the family pictures, which now adorn the walls in the Dining room, Staircase &c. It gives the place quite an odour of “sanctity” considering the antiquity of the Edifice, and the long line of Clopton which family for centuries lived here and then passed away. Added to all Shakespeare was known to have frequented the Mansion in early days, and passed some of his lighter hours here.
5th April 1885, Sunday
Had breakfast at 9.15 and at 10.15 Grace accompanied Mrs Hodgson to the Parish Church at Stratford on Avon. Arthur Hodgson and Frank Hodgson went to another Church called the Guild.
The Clergyman who officiated where Grace went is named Arbuthnot, the vicar.
Had dinner at 1.30, afterwards Miss Hodgson took me over the place, showed me the stables, the horses, comprising six in number, one of which was her pride, which she rode to all the Hunts in the neighbourhood, a horse which she said had never refused any fence she put him to. He is a chestnut, about 15 hands high, and shows the white of his eye. But notwithstanding is very (tractable?) with her. Miss Hodgson took me to the well where one of the Miss Cloptons is said to have drowned herself, on account of some love affair. Also to the back entrance of Clopton, which was once the main entrance. A bow window (is partly?) near, which was formerly a sitting room for the family, but now turned into the servants hall.
6th April 1885, Monday
Awoke this morning with severe stomach ache and general indisposition. Did not stir out the whole day. Also afraid of the East wind which blew as keenly. After lunch Grace drove in with Mrs Hodgson, to Stratford and afterwards to Charleville Park, the seat of the Lucus,’ whose family figured so much in Shakespeare’s time. To lunch came a Mr and Mrs (Romse?) and her sister Miss Colthurst, she lives 10 miles away at a nice place (formerly the Fenton’s) he is a very off handed sort of man, and well off, hunts all through the season, and made is money in (Holland?) by the manufacture of whisky. His wife a daughter of Sir C Colthurst, he drove here in an open dry cart and a pair of well made Arabs about 15 ½ hands high.
7th April 1885, Tuesday
Cloudy day, a North Easterly wind and occasional showers during the day. Hodgson went to some place near Birmingham to open a Bazaar, in aid of Church purposes, and of which the Clergyman of the Parish (the Rev. T. Jones, son of the late R Jones of Sydney) was interested. After lunch Mrs Hodgson drove Grace and myself into Stratford about a mile from Clopton. Passed by the house where Shakespeare was born and lived, and which has been kept in a capital state of preservation. It was built abutting the street and is a two storied house with diamond shaped windows, and a good deal of timber inserted in the bricks. From thence accompanied by Miss Hodgson we drove to Ann Hathaway’s cottage on the Shottery Road in which lives a descendent of hers a Mrs Baker, who showed us over the place, and in the bedrooms Ann Hathaway once occupied in which was an old mahogany four post bed head 400 years old with the posts and had a bedstead most beautifully and elaborately carved. We were shown the old Bible belonging to the great grandfather of this Mrs Baker, and also a book containing the names of different visitors amongst which I espied that of Dickins, Longfellow and President Garfield. I was asked to put my name in it too which I did. The old Dame also pointed out the old settle which though now kept inside the house, was formerly outside, and whenever Shakespeare and Ann Hathaway were supposed to sit whilst he was visiting her. On our return we caught sight of the Parish Church where Shakespeare is buried, a large and beautiful looking building. We also saw another Church called the Guild, a very old Church in the town, the very stones of which seemed crumbling away with old age, though still in good preservation.
In the afternoon Hodgson’s youngest son Percy with his wife (formerly a Miss Blackett) arrived. After dinner we had whist. Arthur Hodgson and I as partners against Frank Hodgson and Edward. We lost 7/- a piece. I felt much better today, stomach ache gone, and also my cough and cold.
8th April 1885, Wednesday
Very cold and cloudy. Hodgson went in by himself to Stratford, and on his return, after lunch, we all (Hodgson, Mrs Hodgson, Grace, Frank Hodgson, Mrs P. Hodgson, Lilly Hodgson and myself) went in the Private Omnibus into Stratford; the Ladies to some person giving lessons in cookery, and also to a Mrs Flower’s to inspect the wedding presents given to Miss Flower who was married today to a Clergyman by the name of Rees. Hodgson, his brother Frank and myself went to a man who Hodgson designated ‘Professor Jones,” formerly a shoemaker, but who of late years has turned his attention to getting roots of trees and shaping them after different kinds of animals as well as getting pieces of stone somewhat of configuration of birds and animals and caring them into something like those of the beasts or birds he wished to depict. The place we went to was honored by the name of a museum “Jones’ Museum,” but the man himself appeared half crazed, and seemed to have an overweening opinion of his own genius which seemed to be flattered by people calling continually on his to look at these roots and stones which he had so shaped as I have said to resemble animals or as he said to give the youth of the village a taste for natural history. As far back as 2nd May 1864, the newspaper called the “Era.”
Played whist, Hodgson and I against Frank Hodgson and Edward, we won 4/- tonight.
(newspaper insert – Mr H. Jones’s Museum at Stratford-on-Avon
The following extract from the ‘Era,” of May 2nd, 1864
It is as curious as delightful to record the constant rising of genius from obscurity, and the continued bursting forth of ingenuity, beauty, and art from those of originally humble occupation. Opie drew his first sketches among the rude mines of Cornwall; Chantry formed his earliest indications amid the pastoral hill of Derbyshire; George Stevenson mended watches at a coal-pit ere he had formed a locomotive to carry it product; and we might narrate a vast catalogue of mighty and art-diffusing men, who have started forth into brightness from seemingly unpromising beginnings. In a former number we chronicled the recent Shakespeare anniversary in this town at length which precluded our alluding to incidents second to the great feature of the day which presented themselves there, or to the various objects of interest which were noticeable, and examined with much zeal and gratification by very many of the usually numerous visitors to the festival. Among these stood forth prominently Mr Henry Jones’s Museum, at his Exhibition Room, Bull-villas. Mr H Jones until the last three or four years, followed entirely the respectable and unpretending occupation of a shoe-maker when at a mature age the light of original genius was fully shed upon him – the bright gift …(more in file 840)
9th April 1885, Thursday
Cloudy and drizzly. After lunch Mrs Hodgson drove us in to Stratford on Avon; Hodgson, his brother General Hodgson, Grace and myself went to the Church on the banks of the Avon, a very old Church, cruciform in shape with tapering steeple, and a very elegant structure though upwards of hundreds of years old. Here we were shown not only the tombs and effigies of the numerous Clopton family, but also the monument erected to Shakespeare near the Communion Table, and the grave underneath just outside the communion rails, of Shakespeare and his wife Ann Hathaway. Outside the tablet over Shakespeare’s grave, are the lines her wrote intimating to anyone who removed his bones “cursed he would be.” Inside the Church centuries perhaps after its erection, and probably to afford more room to the parishioners, two galleries were erected which spoil the architectural beauty of the Church. The galleries not being more than 8 feet from the ground, thereby giving a very empty appearance. It is however, a contemplation to have them removed and Mr Garner who stayed with Hodgson the other night, is now architect to whom has been entrusted the work of removal. From the Church Hodgson took Grace and myself to Shakespeare’s house, in the heart of the town, actually the street. It is kept in thorough repair, and some 50 or 60 years ago was put up to auction and sold by the then celebrated auctioneer of the day “George Robins” competition was keen and the celebrated (Am—Thomson??) bit £1870 for it, but a company of gentlemen went up to £2000 in order to prevent its being taken out of the town and re-erected elsewhere. The property was not worth intrinsically more than a few hundreds, and is now held in the name of Trusttees for the benefit of the Corporation. Two middle aged ladies by the name of Hathaway are the care takers of the place, and show visitors about. The room where Shakespeare was born, is an upper bedroom, facing the street, with sloping roof, and lattice windows and the staircase up to it very steep and almost circular. The boards of the floor are in excellent state of preservation. In the parlour below there is a very good picture of Shakespeare (artist unknown) but considered so valuable that it is kept day and night in a (freip?) safe, the doors of which during the day are kept open, to allow inspection. It was make a present I believe to the Trustees and less than 2000 was offered and refused for it. In another part of the house, upstairs, there is a sort of Shakespearian museum, amongst other things the ring he wore, several pictures, at least a dozen in pits, and one differing in expression. There is also a chair and table supposed to be his, and a desk which was at the school to which he went, and on which are carved initials of some of his school fellows, whoever they might have been. After leaving Shakespeare’s House Hodgson took us to the Town Hall, in an upper room (where Balls are sometimes held) where a woman from Liverpool was lecturing on cookery by the aid of gas stoves, and here we were joined by Mrs Hodgson, Mrs Percy Hodgson and General Hodgson who had gone to listen. There were upwards of 100 people, mostly women. The object of the lecture was more to pressure people to buy gas stoves, and thus patronize the gas company of which Hodgson was a shareholder. And therefore as Mayor of Stratford took the opportunity of lending this room to help the business as it were.
An our return we found two Miss Alpeys who live near and who had ridden over to pay the Hodgsons a visit The - - sisters, one very tall, the other very fat, both however, go with Mrs Hodgson after the hounds, have a kind of sympathy.
In the evening the Rev R and Mrs Smith dined here. He is one of the three clergymen who assist the Vicar in the parochial work. His is an Irishman, looks more like an R.C. Priest than Church of England. He has 9 children! And he nearly starved himself to death during the Lental fastings. He was my partner at whist this evening and played very well, but though we won, he would not play for money so I did not benefit by winning the game. General Hodgson and a Mr Lowndes, (- - at Stratford) were our opponents. Great conflamation amongst all, Grace having lost one of her large diamond ear-rings, and which could not be found for hours. On retiring to her bedroom, she found it had tumbled into and caught on the lace of her dress. Circumstances caused much confusion at the time.
10th April 1885, Friday
Raining off and on all day, but notwithstanding two people came to lunch here, a Mr and Mrs Flower, he Professor of (blank) having been appointed in the place of Professor Owen, who resigned his office on account of age and debility. After lunch Mrs Hodgson took Grace and myself for a drive in the close carriage, to the village of “Grafton” some few miles distant, passing “Shottery Hall” the owners of which have all lately died off, and the place is at present shut up. And thence on to play a morning or rather afternoon visit to a Mrs Gregg who happened to be away at her brother’s wedding. A very nice house it is, with well laid out grounds around it. Edward Hodgson left his morning for Somersetshire where Miss Constable resides. We had whist in the evening, Mrs Hodgson my partner, Hodgson and his brother the general against us, we won however.
11th April 1885, Saturday
General Hodgson left Clopton at 10 this morning. The Percy Hodgsons are also going away in the afternoon, and the old Hodgsons will be therefore quite left alone: we left at 11 o’clock, and drove in to Stratford to catch the 11.30 train for Wolverton, fares 8/10 each. We had to change at Blissworth having travelled to far by the Eastern & Western Railway, reaching it by 2 o’clock. We were detained for nearly an hour, and took the opportunity of having something to eat at the Inn opposite the Terminus, which we found very cold indeed, and made me apprehensive of getting an illness of cold. From “Blissworth” to Wolverton we went by another line of railway and on the platform on our arrival there we found Trevelyan waiting for and expecting us. His carriage also outside the inclosure. Our luggage went on by the Omnibus. After two miles drive along a very nice road, we arrived at the village which is betwixt Wolverton and Cleverton and called Claverton, and partly belongs to Wolverton Parish. We drove to Trevelyan’s house, and got there by 4.30 where we were most hospitably received by Mrs Trevelyan whom I had not seen since he married. Having returned to Australia before the event took place, she was a Miss Pleydell Bouverie, daughter of the late, and sister of the present Lord Radnor. Trevelyan was formerly Rector of Calverton, the Rectory being a mile away from his present residence. He held the living for 25 years and his brother-in-law, a Mr Percival for 40 years before, so that the Parish was under the consecutively for upwards of 65 years. A short time ago however, Trevelyan found that he was getting too old (now 73 years old) to carry on the work to his satisfaction, and so resigned, but he was so interested with al the people about that he purchased the house he is now living in from a Dr Daniel, and immediately opposite he has caused to be either built or very much enlarged, a Church of which his eldest son has been lately appointed the Incumbent, and which Trevelyan privately attends most earnestly and constantly, going to early service on Sunday, as well as on week days. After having some tea, Trevelyan and I walked in the direction of his old Parish, and within view of the Rectory to Claverton Church. We must have walked a mile or so, across the fields. We went inside the Church which shows how well it has been cared for, all the windows of stained glass, a nice organ with a good choir, and the choristers, always I am informed, dressed in white surplices. I saw candles and other decorations on the Alter, which let me to conclude that “High Church” was the order of the day. Trevelyan told me that nearly all the beautiful Elms and trees around the Rectory were planted by his predecessor Mr Perceval, many years ago, and that there were upwards of 400 acres of Glebe land attached to it. Trevelyan is much interested in the “Boarding out System” of children coming from the St Pancras Union, and he devotes much of his time and labor in carrying on “this labor of love.” He himself has one nice little girl who had been so brought up in his Parish under this system, and took me to see another little one who has her two foster mother, a very nice old motherly well to do sort of Farmer’s wife , who is bringing up this waif as though with her own children, so that when she is old enough she will be so trained to domestic life as to be easily fitted for service, if she so desires. Trevelyan has made me a convert to the system, particularly when I recalled how few of the 600 or 700 children at Randwick turn out satisfactory, and who are seldom without that peculiar miserable appearance with which both boys and girls coming from thence are stamped. On our way back, we met driving a pony dog cart, Reverend Mr Willes and his wife, she in a great alarm at the skittishness of the poney and was just in the act of getting out of the Dogcart when we met. He is the present Rector of Claverton, a young man and she is a niece of Sir Michael Hicks (Beach?), and I suppose in the principle of being a Clergyman’s wife, has already blessed her husband with nine children and she is yet comparatively young! In the evening they came to dinner at Trevelyan’s to meet us, and with them came a friend of theirs now staying with them, a Mr Risley, and Oxfordshire Squire, an agreeable gentlemany fellow. They left about 10.30.
Grace had a very bad headache before and after arrival, which unfortunately lasted all the evening and night. The following are the different places the train passed through after leaving Stratford-on-Avon viz.
We arrived here at 1.217 and waited till 1.17, owing to the carelessness of one of the guards allowing the Block(?) Staff to be carried away by a (deisa?) and thus detaining the train which prevented out leaving till they had recovered the staff.
Blissworth – we were detained another hour here and changed our train.
Lord Mayor Nottage died Saturday
(newspaper clipping inserted – The Princess of Wales will open a bazaar on behalf of the funds of the North Eastern Hospital for Children, Hackney-road, at the Cannon-street Hotel, on June 24th.
The Lord Mayor (Mr Alderman Nottage), who was unable, owing to illness, to attend the Spital Service on Easter-Tuesday, has been confined to his room ever since by an attack of pleurisy, which has caused his family much anxiety. Last night the following bulletin was issued:-“The Lord May is suffering form the effects of severe chill, accompanied by pleurisy; he is progressing satisfactorily, but ill be quite unable to leave his room for the next week or ten day,- signed, A.B. Garrod, M.D., and F. Arthur Farr, M.R.C.S., L.R.C.P.” We are requested to state that, owing to the Lord Mayor’s illness, the customary Easter banquet will not be held next Monday, but at a later date to be hereafter notified.
12th April 1885, Sunday
Awoke with pain in head and neck, and Grace still suffering from headache too. The Trevelyans went to early Communion at 8 o’clock, and had breakfast at 9. Neither Grace nor I were able to accompany them to the 11 o’clock school morning service. I sat during the afternoon in Trevelyan’s study reading the different papers he had collected on the subject of Boarding out children from the Union. We had an early dinner at 1 o’clock, and afterwards took a stroll along the public road leading to his house, all the trees coming into leaf, and all the fields beautifully green, with the crops a few inches high. Trevelyan pointed out the spires on towers of several churches in three different counties, Bucks, Warwickshire and Northamptonshire, all visible from where we were standing at the time. In the evening Grace went with the Trevelyans to evening church at 7, and on their return we had a sort of cold dinner or supper. Trevelyan is a very good sincere kind man, and seems thoroughly to live up to his calling of a Clergyman. He has four son altogether, two are Clergymen (one of whom is appointed incumbent of the Church Trevelyan attends) the other stationed in London, amongst some of the worst specimens of humanity, whom he is zealously trying to christianise and civilize. His other two sons are in Virginia farming and breeding called and horses.
13th April 1885, Monday
Grace’s headache nearly gone, and she feeling a little better today. Trevelyan had another long conversation with me about the Boarding out system of children, and suffered me with several pamphlets bearing upon the subject. He left his house about 3.19 in the afternoon, he sent us in his carriage as far as Wolverton (2 miles) and we went by the 3.30 train to “Bletchley” where we had to change carriages, and take a different line of railway. We had to wait upwards of half an hour for the arrival of the train, which as the weather was cold and gloomy, and a cold wind blowing through the Terminus, was not very pleasant. We reached the Euston Square Station at 5, took a cab to Covent Garden Hotel, for which we were charged with luggage 2/-. The following places we passed through. (blank)
17th April 1885, Friday
A beautiful fine sunshiny day and warm, the only agreeable day since I have been in England, and for the first time went out without a handkerchief held around my neck and throat. After breakfast I accompanied Grace to her milliners (Mrs Hughs of Hilles St) Left her there and I went to Lincoln & Bennetts in Piccadilly, who were making and had just completed a hat for me, price 25/-. After lunch Grace and I went by District Railway from Charing Cross to “Gloucester Road” Terminus (immediately opposite which stands Bailleys Hotel) to call on Mrs James Manning and Miss Robertson (Rolleston?). We arrived at ten minutes to 4, a little before the time named, so waited for 10 minutes when Mrs Manning and Miss Rolleston’s came in. We found the two Miss Buchanans in the Drawing room also waiting for Mrs Mannng’s return to the Inn. Mrs Manning looks much better than she did in Sydney, as does Annie Manning, and Ada Rolleston has grown an uncommonly fine handsome girl, and very nice manners too. They all speak most highly of the Steamer “Rome” in which they came from Sydney. They arrived at Bailley’s Hotel on Wednesday I believe. We stayed chatting for and hour and a half, and did not leave till 5.30. Young Bob Mort called whilst we were there, and a young fellow passenger of the Mannings, afterwards a Mr Speeding, I think was his name. On our return to Charing Cross in the train, we met a young man who tells me he is a son of Jack, Dr Lamb of Sydney, and that he is now in England keeping his terms at Cambridge University. After dinner I went by myself to the Alhambra Theatre in Leicester Square which as for as the performance was concerned was well worth seeing, the Ballet and the young maidens who composed the Corps de Ballets, were most attractive, both in looks and dress and all their actions graceful in the extreme. Besides the Ballet there were comic songs, a clever Frenchman who did all sorts of wonderful tricks, balancing all sorts of things in the accurate way. Then there was a female who also balanced herself whilst standing on a ladder, on a sort of swing, and in which she (elegantly?) stood without holding with her hands.
Most of the people wore their hats and kept smoking the whole time which gave a very free and easy air to the Theatre generally, which, nevertheless beautifully decorated.
18th April 1885, Saturday
A beautiful day and warm. Went to my tailors in Bond St for Patterson(?) Lord Mayor Nottage buried at 12 today at St Pauls Cathedral. He was accorded a Public Funeral and his grave in the Cathedral is placed adjoining those of Nelson and the Duke of Wellington. Had lunch at 2 and went out with Grace to St Paul’s Church yard to get Lozenges from Leath & Ross the Homeopathic Chemists, and also to look at the different shops in the vicinity. From thence took Omnibus to Piccadilly, and walked up and down the Burlington Arcade. Met Bray and his little boy there, our fellow passengers by the “Ganges,” he tells me he is going to return to Australia the end of May. My bronchitis still hanging about me.
19th April 1885, Sunday
Another fine day, but I have still a cold and cough, and (a very unusual thing for me) I find my eyes also affected, as though with cold, with the same sensation one feels in Australia just before getting the Blight.
After lunch at 3, Grace and I took a stroll on the “Thames Embankment,” walking on one side of the River past London Bridge up to Blackfriars Bridge, from thence to Ludgate Circus where we took an Omnibus up to Charing Cross. Numbers of people were strolling about on the Embankment, numbers in Penny Boats and Steamers on the river enjoying the bright sunshine, as all the trees were coming into leaf in front of Temple Gardens and those planted on the side of the pavement, it had a more cheering aspect than when I first arrived in London. About midway we passed “Cleopatra’s Needle,” which has been set up, not far from and in front of “Somerset House.” On the inlai9d tablet on the pillar, it is stated how many years it has remained in Egypt, after I had been presented to the Empire, the difficulty of transshipping it, and the having to abandon it whilst in the Bay of Biscay. It is stated that it was removed from its position where first erected, by one of the Pharaohs, 23 BC! And re-erected at Cairo afterwards by him. From Charing Cross we took another Omnibus, going by Tottenham Court Road, Hampstead Road,, and getting out at a small street, which lead to the Regents Park from the gate we took a cab and drove right round the Park. Just as we entered, a carriage drove by in which Sir Anthony and Lady Hoskins were, but going in the contrary direction, which prevented us from pulling up. Looking upon the Park, there are numbers of fine residences in Cambridge Terrace, York Terrace, Gloucester Terrace &c, and all of them have a good view of the ornamental sheet of water in front, and in which numbers of white swans were swimming about. All the trees were apparently in a much more forward state than any I have yet seen, covered with leaves!
The evening became cooler and a little foggy as we reached Covent Garden Hotel, about 7, and which as we returned in a cab, we fortunately were not long exposed to.
20th April 1885, Monday
A most lovely sunshiny day, quite a contrast to the weather we have been exposed to since arrival in England. It was quite like a summer’s day, every one walking about without great coats, and the scene in Regents Park Street and Piccadilly gayer than I have seen it since I landed, owing chiefly to there being so many carriages in London now, than a few months ago. I felt, notwithstanding the fine weather, very unwell all day, and have still a little cough which I cannot get rid of. At 12 I went to my tailors in Bond St, and ordered a suit, took a stroll up Regent St, into Maddox St to look for M.H. Stephen’s tailor, but could not find the shop. Returned at 2 and had lunch and went out afterwards with Grace to her milliners, Miss Hughes of Holles St for the purpose of ordering a summer dress and cloak. From thence we walked down Regent St, and through the Burlington Arcade, to the Egyptian Hall, opposite and inspected there the very large oil picture by Munkcasky, called “Calway” representing the Crucifixion. It is very well conceived and painted the figures, some 26 or more, standing out of the canvas as it were in bold relief. The Virgin Mary Magdalene at the foot of the cross, deeply grieving over the cruel death of the Saviour, are placed well and the foreground, and the two thieves crucified at the same time and both on either side impaled to their crosses are equally well portrayed and still though it is a wonderfully fine, yet it is a very melancholy picture to be always gazing upon.
On our returning from Holles St and in Oxford St, we suddenly came upon Mrs William McLeay (walking with a woman servant) she looks very unwell and seems quite “home sick” already, so far as being anxious to return to Sydney. She was just walking the streets till her train she intended to go by somewhere had started. Just at the same time young Clay (Dr Clay’s son) came upon us and told us his father had been calling or was going to call on us.
21st April 1885, Tuesday
Had Australian letters by the “Shannon.” Miss Kingdon lunched with us, very anxious to go to Paris for a week or so, and to go in our company. She and Grace went out after lunch to the British Museum. I to Bond St. In the evening we went to the Court Theatre, Sloan St. We went by District Railway and got out at the Sloane Square terminus immediately opposite which was the Theatre. We were very early, nearly half an hour before the first piece commenced “Under an Umbrella.” Immediately followed after followed the piece of the evening “The Magistrate” which kept us in great laughter the whole time. The Magistrate gets into a series of scrapes through his step son who was here represented as always 5 years younger than his real age so but he looked upon as only 14 he is in reality 19 years of age, they are found at an Inn after hours as also his wife, her sister and a Colonel Lurkin, the father manages to escape before Police come in, but his wife and sister in law are brought up before him next morning, whom he immediately sentences to 7 years but his colleague discovers the loop hole of escape and remits the sentence
22nd April 1885, Wednesday (light pencil, very difficult to read)
Grace and I went by District Railway to St. Johns Wood and took out to Bromley Road to call upon a Mrs Neale, to whom Mrs Stephen had sent a photo of some sort - - Dr Neale who attended Mrs Stephens. And from thence we walked to the Matthew (Seth?) in the same street, and had lunch with two of the daughters, their mother away. The elder sister returned with Grace to London and I left a little before they did, by Omnibus which returned in less time than the railway. A most beautiful day, and all the trees coming out with leaf.
23rd April 1885, Thursday (light pencil, very difficult to read)
Raining off and on all day. I wrote to Fanny and Adams (Manager of A.J.S. Bank of Sydney) as to allowing me to draw for another 150, as I had been granted an extension of three months leave.
We went by District Railway at 6 to South Kensington to dine with Lady Murray. On our way from station to her house we met our fellow passengers (by the “Ganges”) Miss King who has (much, hardly?) improved in her - -
The people we met at Lady Murrays were her mother, her sister a widow, two young ladies who are (furthering?) their education with Lady Murray, two Miss Clairmontes, - - nice looking girls, cousins, the elder one very clever, and a fine figure, with black hair and eyes, and very bright complexion. In the evening she educated us in the game of consequence, each person to write a name, and turn the paper down, she then tells the whole company to write each on their paper an adjective, and then to turn the paper down, and hand it to the next neighbour. Then to write the name of some Lady, then what he said to her, what she said to him, and last, “what are the consequences.”
Last entry Thurs 23rd KH
15th May 1885, Friday (light pencil, very difficult to read)
A fine day but an East wind still blowing, and obliged to wrap my scarf over my mouth to prevent catching cold. I went to A.J.S. Bank, Threadneadle St, to see if my Australian letters had arrived, but there were none. The manager mentioned the sudden death of a Mr Pierpointe Abbott who had only lately come from Port Said, and had obtained Consular (Notes?) as he intended going on the Continent. From the Bank I went to the P&O Office to find out what steamers left in August. It was, I found the “Ballarat” commanded by Captain Taubman. Had a late lunch and at 3 went by Underground Railway to South Kensington where “The International Invention Exhibition” is held and adjoining the Albert Hall which was also thrown open. The experiment for the - - was a lengthy one - -
Before we arrived at 12 when lecture on cooking was given, then an organ recital, then a lesson on plain cookery, Pianoforte recital - - Organ recital then from 3 to 5 the - - and from 5 to 7 the Grenadier Guards Bands and then from 7.30 to 8.30 both bands played alternately at what was termed the Garden and Western -- at which twice there was an instantaneous illumination of the buildings, gardens and every thing with different coloured lamps suspended midst the branches. The fountains in the middle of the artificial water were made to play and the jets thrown up were sometimes of one color, sometimes of another, green, red, yellow, white, blue. They intermixed and the cascade falling over lights apparently placed (inter--?) the crowds of people were immense, the good order and respectability of the masses wonderful, and everyone seemed brimful of enjoyment. The contrast between this place of amusement and the Minstrel(?) Palace is immensely in favour of the former one and Grace and I had tea at one of the restaurants and on our way walked into the Concert Hall of the Albert Hall.
16th May 1885, Saturday
After breakfast Grace went with Kate Scott to Chelsea to Bulls Gardens, a large conservatory, containing every variety of orchid, of every colour, shade, and delicate perfume. Grace very much pleased. I did not go, having to try on clothes at the Tailors (Gardiner) and to go to the Empire Club. Lady Samuel gave the tickets of admission to Grace to inspect the orchids above mentioned. I returned to lunch, and afterwards went out to Lamberts the Jewellers but being after 2 his place of business was closed. About 5 o’clock heavy rain fell which lasted for an hour, and kept me a prisoner in a print shop.
23rd May 1885, Saturday
Very cloudy morning, rain off and on whole day. Finished our packing up and ordered four wheeled cab at 11.15. Drove to the Euston Square Station, where a terrific hail storm came on. Fortunately we were under cover at Railway Station. Train left at 12.10, paid Railway fare 1.07 for each of us to Alsager. We reached Crewe by 4.45 and a few minutes more brought us to Alsager about 9 or 10 miles distant where the Marsh-Caldwells had sent their carriage to meet us, and their nephew John Loring (who manages the property for them as Steward or Agent) kindly came to us. We travelled 158 miles in four hours and still not - - my fatigue.
Numbers of people in the train, taking excursions during the Whitesun Holidays. We passed on our way the very pretty country, in fact the whole county was kept like a garden showing such extreme fertility, the grass everywhere emerald green and orchards every where in full bloom. We passed through the following places, Harrow, Watford, Tring, Bletchley, Wolverton, Weedon, Rugby, Nuneaton, Tamworth, Stafford, Norton Bridge, Whitingstone, Madely, Crewe and Alsager, which is only 3 miles from Linley Wood. We found a large family party assembled at Linley Wood, General and Mrs Crofton, Mrs John Loring, Mrs Arthur Loring, Mrs Cotton. General Arthur I had not seen since 1848 at whose marriage I was present at Eastbury with his wife, then Miss Marsh.
24th May 1885, Sunday
Awoke this morning with return of severe pain in back of neck and head. Possibly caused by the motion of the Railway yesterday from London to Crewe (153 miles in four hours). Grace went to Church, in the evening with the Marsh-Caldwells, the Clergyman named McHutchen(?). After Church we both took a stroll to where John Loring is living, about a mile away, looked at his farm, his homestead, horses &c. He has a young colt 2 years old for which he gave £45 and which - - -him with --- .
At dinner at 5 we sat down, General and Mr Crofton, Mrs Cotton, Miss Heath, and Miss Marsh-Caldwells, ourselves, John Loring, and wife (nee Royd) Mr Arthur Loring, (eleven in all). Raining off and on during the day with gleamings of sunshine. Country around very pretty, though could have been much prettier if not for the numbers of large chimneys vomiting black smoke from the colliers all round. The property is partly in Staffordshire and partly in Cheshire. Mrs John Loring was formerly Miss Royd whose father is a Clergyman, and Rector Brereton only about 9 miles away. Mrs Arthur Loring was a Miss Watson, and married to married to Miss Marsh-Caldwell’s nephew. Mrs Crofton was formerly a (blank). Miss Marsh-Caldwell and Grace and I were present at their marriage at Eastbury in 1848.
Mrs Cotton was a Miss Heath (daughter of Admiral Sir Leopold Heath and niece of Miss Marsh-Caldwell). She is married to a Captain Cotton, now in India, with his (Pils?) Lumsden’s in “Abyssinia”. She has lately come home whilst he must the - - -behind. He is a near member of Lord (Ambermere’s?) family and her father is General Sir (blank) Cotton. She is a very pleasing kindly like young woman, and clever with all.
Arthur Cuthbert Marsh had six daughters.
Eliza Louisa born 1818 took the name Caldwell (of Linley Wood)
Frances May 1819 married General Crofton
Georgina Ann 1820 took the name of Caldwell
Rosamond Jane 1823 took the name of Caldwell
Mary Emma married Admiral Sir Leopold Heath KCB
Hannah Adelaide (deceased) married Rev Henry Loring, Rector of Gillingham.
The Croftons have three sons, Captain Crofton R.N. married to Miss Lefroy. (daughter of General Sir John Henry Lefroy) Captain R. Crofton R.A. Captain D Crofton and one daughter married J Swinton Isaac of Boughton Park, Worcester.
The Heaths have 8 children, amongst them Arthur Raymond married to Miss Baxter. Marion Emma married Captain Alfred Cotton, others unmarried.
The Lorings, three sons, John married to Miss Royds. Arthur (formerly in the navy) married a Miss Watson and Nele unmarried.
25th May 1885, Monday
Raining off and on and cold wind blowing. Grace went in the carriage wit General Crofton, Mrs Crofton and Louisa Marsh-Caldwell, to the village to see the May Meeting, held every year. The young people all dressed up in fancy costumes, one representing the Queen of the May, with her knights (leading her on horseback?) and each lady in the village undertakes (the costume?) of one of the girls, and the Miss Marsh-Caldwells protégé, a pretty little girl of 12 or 13 was dressed by them as a French girl and who looks the character well, her black hair and black eyes and seems as she was brought into the Drawing room to be inspected before joining her merry makers, thoroughly to enjoy the position assigned her of a little French grisette. This evening at dinner we had an addition to the family circle of Captain Crofton R.A. the third son of General Crofton. He is in the Royal Artillery, where his father, - - that of a young man, had rapid promotion. But all his (paper?) and prospects both in the Army, and possibly in life, have been suddenly blighted; about a year ago, whilst stationed in India with the Regiment, he was firing a gun from the battery (balcony?) almost unfortunately burst, and nearly killed him, destroying one eye, and somewhat injuring the other, rending his sight very indistinct, and necessitating his being obliged to leave the service. His is a very nice young fellow, and bears his misfortune with the utmost patience and equanimity. Never hearing him remorsing his fate, but always in the best of spirits.
26th May 1885 Tuesday
Fine day. Loring and Captain Crofton went fly fishing in a sort of pond near the House. They were not very successful, as the trout would not rise to the May fly attached to their lines. After lunch Grace, Mrs (Crofton?) and Rosamond March-Caldwell went in the carriage to a very old house, perhaps the oldest in the neighbourhood, called Moreton Hall about five miles away. It has come very much to – the present owners (a Mrs - - ) not long the (owner?) to restore it and to (found?) - - and be (built?) as a Farm house, though it is built after the manner of all Cheshire houses with (tiles?) of black wood, less in the building - - It is two storied, with small lattice windows and the overhanging sill of lay windows, from the upper storey. The house is surrounded by a moat, and once upon a time evidently a portcullis was ready to stop the way. It is in a very extensive place, and has both a front and back entrance, apparently built at different periods. The latter portion is devoted to the residence of the farmer and his family, (10 children) who have not much sentiment or sensibility. On the quaint long tables, and round tables of old oak, made ages ago instead of being kept (conservation??) are consigned to the base uses of being made benches and to place upon them of bags of flour and grain and gave one - - of the latter, there must have been 20 or 30 bags up on - - the little old chapel the windows of which – tool house - - the name and arms of the Moretons. - - wainscoting. The upper - - , one the Hall is in, where once Queen Elizabeth danced and Oliver Cromwell held his Court House also quaint carving and wainscotings too. The floor however, is very uneven and considerably depressed in the middle, and if a dance was attempted now, the whole fabric would I think suddenly come down. At least there are several props underneath, as anticipating such a result. In the little chapel there was once a subterranean passage (outside a few hundred yards away?) where the Priests were occasionally surreptitiously introduced to hold Mass. The Moretons being then as now Roman Catholics.
In the evening we had another addition at dinner, when Loring arrived from London, this made the unlucky number of 13, strange to say. No one took notice of the co-incidence (outwardly at least) for no allusion was made to it, and therefore from the silence meaning I could not help thinking the family felt it a disagreeable ‘omen.’
In the evening we played a (v---d?) game of cards called “Newmarket?” which kept us up till 10.30. Arthur Loring was formerly in the Navy, once in the “Tamerane(?).” He left it on his marriage with Miss Watson, and is now Private Secretary to the Honorable W.S. P— M.P. whom, as a chief(?) he worships.
Got Australian letters of “Orient” one from Fanny inclosing one from Marie, George Pinnock to her.
27th May 1885, Wednesday (pencil 50% illegible)
Felt very unwell all day, and awoke with pain in back of head and neck. Got medicine from the Chemist whom I sent prescription, at Newcastle, near this. In afternoon went in carriage with Mrs Crofton, Grace, and Miss Louisa Marsh-Caldwell for a drive. The others walked across the fields being 1½ miles away and taking a short cut. We visited “Lawton Hall” a very old country residence and in good preservation, and occupied by the widow of the late owner. She however, after two years widowhood is shortly to be married to the Rector of the Parish, the Rev Mr (Skene?) whose sister is married to the Arch Bishop of York, and formerly in the Diplomatic Service, and then the house will be let, it being now in Chancery, as the heir at law is only a boy of 12 years old, and the widow has not means to keep it up otherwise. The Lawtons are a very old family and from time (immemorial?) have resided here. The rooms are very big and very lofty, most of them with beautifully grained oak wainscoting. The pictures of the family, as well as of Charles 2nd and the (L---p?) ornament the rooms. The floors too of polished oak, are much (printed, polished?) by those who have danced upon them. At the front of the house (with a Bay window extending the full length of the Drawing room) is a beautiful sheet of water, lined with trees of various kinds, with their Spring foliage giving a most cheerful aspect to the scene. We were shown one of the rooms where Charles 1st was concealed and a secret passage which led to it, and where he lay in ambush for a fortnight. We were also shown the snuff box of Boxwood, most beautifully carved with the Arms of England on one side (and those subsequently carved of the Lawton family) and said were given by Charles 1st to the ancestor of the Lawtons.
There were two magnificent carved sideboards at opposite end of the Dining room, on each which was - - - -
Mrs Lawton - - Miss Erskine, a relation of - - her husband died a young man - - of only 36 or 37, notwithstanding was intemperate, and squandered his money thoroughly and kept - - him.
The Rev Mr (Skene?) to whom the widow is engaged is a man of (wealth?) £30,000, seems a clever intelligent man, I should think, active and energetic in his Parish, and from having given up the Diplomatic Service for the Church, conscientious besides.
Another addition to the family circle at dinner, was the 2nd son of General Crofton, Captain Harry Crofton also of the Royal Artillery, whose Regiment is quartered in Sheffield, where he is now wending his way, taking Linley Wood on the way. Had cards again this evening which gave amusement to 8 or 9 or us.
(insert in dairy – in biro – 28th May 1885. Boone. A stonemason and builder. Sanders and Inez in New South Wales, they live at Lillian Cottage, Jessy St, Tempe Park, St Petersburg, N.S.W. Great-grandparents John and Grace staying with his, Milbourne Marsh cousins, the Marsh-Caldwells of Linley Wood, Staffordshire. Mrs Arthur Marsh buried in cemetery with a small monument erected. Mrs John Lorings sister and father live at Brereton Rectory, nine miles away. The daughter is Mrs Royds (or a name like that) General Crofton m Miss Marsh at Eastbury in 1848. The Commissioner of the Navy George Marsh’s son had bible with him when shipwrecked off Isle of Wight when everyone except himself was drowned (??) Bible printed 1641. Mrs Lorings uncle Mr Royds from Queensland is now staying at her father’s Rectory (Brereton) he is suffering from deafness, which has brought him home to consult physicians over here.
28th May 1885, Thursday (pencil 50% illegible)
Beautiful morning, and warmer than any day I have yet felt. Rain in the evening and cold. - -I again awoke with pains in head and neck, and disagreeable bitter taste in mouth. Arthur Loring laid up with cold. After breakfast General Crofton went (fly fishing?) but not successful. Heard from Susan Downman and Grace from Mrs Hodgson. The Miss Marsh-Caldwells wish us to extend our visit to Monday next, the 31st May, (shall see - - tickets?) After lunch Grace and I went with Georgina Marsh-Caldwell to see a Cottager by the name of Barnes, whose husband works at the colliery herer, at the village of Talke about a mile. Her daughter and her husband went to Australia a year or so ago, and she is anxious for me to see them on my return, and let them know I have seen her. Their names are Sanders (a stonemason and builder and they live at Lillians Cottage, Terry St, Tempe Park, St Peters, N.S.Wales. We returned a different road, and on the way went to the cemetery where Mrs Arthur Marsh was buried, to whom a small monument is erected. Just as we drove in a double dray cart drove up to Linley Wood in which were Mrs - - and her daughter (who are mother and sister of Mr (John Loring?) - - Rectory, a sort of -
A heavy storm of rain - -
Arthur Loring afterwards - - - 4.30 for London - - -evening. Grace - - to the village of Talke on the Hill - - Mrs Boone, - -
I understand that Mrs Loring uncle Mr Royds from the Queensland is now staying at her father’s Rectory, suffering from deafness which has brought him home to consult the physicians here and abroad.
Mrs Crofton this evening was dressed most becomingly and looked most attractive, her hair well arranged, her white colored dress fitting like a glove, and wearing no ornaments except a pearl necklace with a diamond clasp, which perfected the whole. Mrs John Loring too looked sweetly pretty and Mrs Arthur Loring.
29th May 1885 (pencil 50% illegible)
Fine day but cold wind. Miss Georgina Marsh-Caldwell, Mrs Crofton, and Grace and I drove to the Railway (by the way of Lawton) at Kidsgrove and took our seats for Etruria, passing through Golden Hill, Tr---ed, Brindley, Hanley, to inspect the Wedgewood and Pottery factory there. Originally (founded by?) Wedgewood whose large house on the hill still stands - - private residence, all the trees and gardens have been -- - owing to the injurious effects of - - had upon it. --
Miss Georgina Marsh-Caldwell showed me several relics of their Grandfather, George Marsh, the Commissioner of the Navy, seals, watches &c. as well as a (trove?) of his Father, amongst others an old Bible printed in 1641, and which had been given him by his Father, and which he had with him on his person when he was shipwrecked off the Isle of Wight, when every one except himself was drowned.
7th June 1885, Sunday
Very warm day. With Westerly wind which moderated the heat. Grace went to Church about a mile away with Mrs (Rhode?) and her three daughters. I went with them to the Church and then strolled about the place for about an hour. A great number of persons coming by train from London as we passed the station.
Last entry Friday 29th.
20th June. Left the Croftons
Saturday, cloudy and drizzly after lunch. Hired a carriage and drove to Worcester and went by 44.48 train to Cheltenham. (no 2nd class carriages) Very cold. Reached Cheltenham by (blank) drove to the Queen’s Hotel at head of Promenade and took a stroll immediately after arrival to High St, and back again. Had dinner, and immediately afterwards went out to call on Fallon, my old schoolmaster, found to my disappointment he had died about 8 months ago in January. Saw his widow (Skilliene) and his young son, the Reverend Fallon, the youngest son. They live in St James’s Square abutting what was once “Jessops Gaol(?)” Stayed talking for some time. On opposite side of street to the Hotel a jeweler by name of (Farber? & Son) have a nice shop perhaps relations of young Farber who was with us as overseer at Demondrille. N.S.W.
21st June 1885
Awoke with severe headache and did not have breakfast till 10.30. After lunch we hired a carriage and drove to Colonel Conleton, Thames Lodge, Pitville saw himself, wife and daughters. Very polite, he was formerly in the Indian Artillery. From thence we drove to see the Miss Clays, who are staying with an Aunt of one of them, a Mrs Maynard, at the North End road, within view of the Leckhampton Hills, Found them in but the Aunt laid up. Afterwards drove to Bays Hill in the hope of being able to distinguish where I went to school. The house is now pulled down. The playground covered with villas and most of the oaks have long since been cut down so that it was impossible to remember where the site of the old house was. After dinner I walked to Bahama Lodge where a quondam schoolfellow (W.B.Caldwell) lives. He is a rich old bachelor, £6 or £7000 a year, very eccentric and very miserly. I have to say he could not recollect me, and not even very polite. As I went I looked in at Suffolk Church where as a boy I went to Church.
22nd June 1885 Monday
Cloudy day, raining off an on.
After breakfast called again at 11 on Colonel Conleton, Thames Lodge, Pitville and at 2 Miss Mona Clay called on Grace. I walked a little way with her in direction of Pump Room and met her sister in Mrs Maynard’s pony carriage into which she go, and I went on to Caldwell’s who hired a carriage and drove me to call on Cannon (blank) another old Schoolfellow, being at Hatherley Lodge. He was out, so we went to where Bagot Hill House stood, the site of which he pointed out to me and several of the old oak trees which were in our playground. Paid Inn Bill £3.19.9 and at 6.10 went by Great Western Railway to Cheltenham, which took us only a quarter of an hour, arriving in Gloucester at 6.30. Drove to Brunswick Square where M. Hamptons looking our for us, and then she took us to her residence, 9 Brunswick Square. She having got a bed room for us at No.27 next to the Church.
23rd June 1885, Tuesday
Went out after breakfast for a stroll to the Cathedral Close, College Green, hearing the chimes of 1 o’clock. Looked up the late Rev Dr Evans house where I was at school in 1826. After lunch Grace and I with Mary Wemyss went to Town Hall to see the chess tournament played by having actors, the Queen represented by a very pretty young woman, and the pawns by very handsome young lads. All beautifully and tastefully directed. We waited till this game was over, the Black having checkmated the White. Afterwards we went to the Corn Exchange to a Bazaar in aid of the same Church, purchased flowers and a china ornament from a stall kept by the Miss (Stevens?) who have relatives in Sydney, by the name of Royal. Shown also several specimens of Topaz, Onyx, and Opal, both polished in the rough. In the morning went inside the Spa Church and saw the Tablet erected in the memory of my grandmother Grant, and went into the vault underneath where she was buried in November 1836. I ordered the name to be perfectly cut and painted and the stonemason whom I happened to see at work inside the Church, and the incumbent, the Reverend Vaughan (Pryne?) to whom I made known my wishes, promised it should be well done. On our return Grace and I with Mary Wemyss called on the Coopers, Beaufort Buildings, they were old friends of the Pinnocks, two old maids.
24th June 1885, Wednesday
Raining off and on all day. Breakfasted at 10.30.Afterwards went for a stroll into Gloucester by myself, called at Post Office, formerly the (Tolsen?) sent 10/- to Larsen Surtes(?), went down Font Gate St, Westgate St, Northgate Street and Eastgate St, went up to St Adfage St and as I came from thence met Mary Wemyss who I accompanied home, and on the way called at the Conservative Club, formerly Montague’s, over which we were shown by the housekeeper, a thorough conservative and Anti-Gladstone. Saw several Batteries of Artillery passing up Westgate St and going into Southgate St. Some of the wagons having 6 horses attached to carriages.
After lunch we drove to Bernwood to see Dr Alfred Wood, who has now given up his profession, and lives a retired life. He some years ago manufactured(?) for the Trustees a private Lunatic asylum at Bernwood (Bernwood House, where the Walters lived). And until very lately the Countess of Durham was placed there. I hear she was violent at times, and had contracted the habit of swearing awfully.
Went to the Vault under the Spa Church and found that the mason had recut the name the stone of my grandmother Grant’s vault and repainted the lettering, as I directed it to be done. I saw in today’s paper (Morning Post) of the Reception the Australian Contingent, on their return to Sydney, met with.
25th June 1885, Thursday
Raining off and on all day. Went to Cheltenham by Railway, then in a carriage to Southern and called on the three Miss Sargeson(?) who were at a nice place called Southern Delarne, formerly the property of Lord Ellenborough, but which has come to a Captain Richard, an illegitimate son, but he is too poor to occupy it and it has now been rented to a Mrs Inglis (pronounced Ingles) Miss Sergeson drove us back in her carriage. Mary Wemyss, Grace called on a Mrs Pollard. I went to consult (Rush?) at Electric Bath, he has a daughter in Melbourne.
26th June 1885, Friday
I went by myself at ¼ to 11 to Cheltenham and went to Rush’s and had an Electric Bath. Returned by 5 minutes to 2 train to Gloucester, made the acquaintance of Dr (Squithe?) Rector of Gloucester(?) and also of Dix the (telephone men of --??) After lunch went - - by train to Stroud, Mary Wemyss met us in pony cart, and drove us three miles to their residence at - -Visited convalescent home, returned in close carriage to Gloucester passing the village of Saints Bridge, saw Bowden Hall from the road, Matson &c.
27th June 1885, Saturday
Another bright and lovely day. Grace and I went to Cheltenham by ¼ to 11 and took lodgings for a week at No.2 Crescent Terrace, kept by a Miss Jones, 25/- a week, looked at other lodgings in Imperial Square (Harris’) went to Bucks Imperial Chalyhaste(?) Spa, and got from Miss Buck a glass of the water. Walked up and down the Promenade, High St. Lunched at George’s the Pastry Cooks. Then took a drive, and left by 3 o’clock. In Gloucester. Grace went out for a drive to Bowden Hall and with Miss Cooper (Mary Wemyss went with them) And they returned about 7. Had dinner at 7.30. I took a stroll into Gloucester and looked at No.1 Wellington Parade. Rospact(?) House and Emerald Cottage (now called Mulgrave? House).
Journeying and where we stayed from 17th July to
At Ryde, Isle of Wight
At West Cowes, Isle of Wight
Ryde, Isle of Wight
17th July 1885, Friday
Left London by train from “Waterloo Station” at 11. 35, reached “Portsmouth” by 2.20. More than 37 years since last here! The whole place altered, and not what it was in appearance. All the old ramparts and fortifications that I recollect swept away, and new ones in other localities built. After getting out of the train which brought one to the Wharf, went across in one of the Steamers to Ryde, which after great delay we reached by 4. The way the luggage is knocked about by the porters connected with the railway is disgraceful, they throw portmanteaus and trunks on the ground as though to break them open, and scatter their contents maliciously!
We called at Southsea to pick up passengers. The place too has undergone great changes since I last saw it. Instead of being a bare bleak looking sandy sort of Common, it is now ornamented with handsome buildings and terraces, in all directions, and is moreover a large good looking town, with gardens and pier, and Concert Rooms, where the Bands play, and being the sea side season, just now, full of visitors and excursionists who were crowding on the Pier, as well as on the Boat we were then on.
Saw Coombes C.M.G., of Sydney at the train in Waterloo Station this morning, as I got my tickets, he was on his way to Basingstoke. Miss Wise met us at Ryde Pier, and escorted us to her residence, Bembridge House, where her sister Louisa also welcomed us.
18th July 1885, Saturday
Very cloudy, cold and drizzly. Went after lunch by train to West Cowes, passing Whippingham, Wootton, and Newport: called at Norfolk House, to see the Cosways who were out, so we returned by next train to Ryde. Paid 3/- each for return tickets, and 2/- for cab at Cowes. There are only two, Miss Cosway alive now, all the others dead! Their brother Halliday lives at “Glen Thorne” in Devonshire, left him by his Uncle Walter Halliday; and he has another country residence at or near Torquay. He is Deputy Lieutenant and Chairman of Quarter Sessions, for some part of Devonshire. His sister wrote to say how very anxious they are we should meet him, and wish us to name some day for us to come and stay with them, as they wrote.
19th July 1885, Sunday
Cloudy, rainy and strong wind blowing. Did not feel well, head full and tendency to cold and cough, which I warded off by putting ginger in my mouth. Grace and Wises went to the Parish Church. After lunch, at 2.30 I went by steamer over to Southsea, arrived there in 20 minutes, at return ticket 1/6. Called on my cousin Mrs Dashwood Graham, who lives at 4 Clarendon Road. Saw her and also her daughter Amy, Mrs Dick, married to a Captain Dick now in Egypt, and her granddaughter and grandson, the Nicholsons, she married to Captain Nicholson, very glad to see me. Left Southsea at 6.30 and reached Ryde by 7.
My cousin Susan Downman was married in 1848 to the late Captain Dashwood Graham of the Royal Engineers, whose sister left them nearly £10,000. She has one son in the Army, another in India in the Civil Service, married to a daughter of General Welman, brother of S.C. Welman, my old neighbour, (General Welman) of Sandown, Isle of Wight. Her, Susan’s, eldest daughter is married to a Captain Nicholson in the Army, and he has two children (a son and a daughter) the former going in to the Royal Engineers, the latter about 17 just introduced, a stylish handsome girl, tall and good figure, and has a magnificent voice. Her, Susan’s second daughter Susie, is away on a visit at Chartres and her third daughter Amy, is married, as I have already said to a Captain Dick, at present in Egypt. The Graham family are connected with the family named Sutherland Graeme, with whom the Oswald Bloxome’s are connected, r and old Mrs Bloxome. And the Grahams and themselves are well known to each other, through the circumstance , and hence they asked me if I knew them, the Bloxomes, in Sydney
21st July 1885, Tuesday
Beautiful Day, but very windy Australian letters by “Austral” Steamer, of 1st June, one from Fanny, another from Rolleston, as to extension of leave. Grace and Miss L Wise went for a stroll to the Pier. I for a walk to Esplanade and about the town.
22nd July 1885, Wednesday
Had no sleep during the night, felt very unwell, pain in the head, and a small attack of kidneys. However at 11 we went by train to (Veritons?) to see the Bidden Whittans and Matthew Scotts. We passed through Brading, Sandown, (having a good view of the Ford), Shanklin, Wroxall, reaching Ventnor at 11.30. On getting out of train, took omnibus to the Bidden Whettans(?) who are staying at Loch Cottage in the town a mile or more from the station, overlooking the sea. They are going to leave next week. Bidden Whettan did not come in till just at luncheon time, and left shortly after, for the Public Gardens to play tennis. We drove out afterwards to call on the Matthew Scotts who have lodgings at Serene View, Madeira Road, about ½ a mile from the Whettanms, only Mrs M Scott in, returned to the Whettans and Harriet Whettan took us a drive to the - -passing the Hospital for Consumptive Patients, a series of five large houses built separately. We caught sight of Whettan playing tennis but didn’t think he saw us.
23rd July 1885, Thursday
A most beautiful though very warm day. Today was fixed for the married of H.R.H. Princess Beatrice with Prince Henry of Battenberg, and which was to be solemnized at the little Church at Whippingham, near Osborne, about 8 or 9 miles away. Miss Wise had kindly ordered a carriage and taken tickets at 10/6 each at a (lurp?) stand erected near one of the gates leading to Osborne. So at ¼ to 10 the carriage came round and our party consisted of Grace, A. Wise, Miss Shortland(?), Miss Selby(?) and myself left Ryde. Miss L Wise preferring to come after, later on, when she – to see the bride and bridegroom leaving, and bringing us home again. We got to the stand about ½ a mile from the Church, about 11.15, crowds of people lining the roadway, and which was roped by the Isle of Wight Volunteers on either side, assisted by a few policemen. The volunteers were the lowest specimens amateur soldiers I ever saw, ill dressed, hardly drilled, and presented a dirty personal appearance, and on the line of march before going to their places I counted 14 of them smoking their pipes! A little after 12 different officials began to arrive, and by 12.15 the different Royal carriages, some 14 in number, drove past containing the guests and officials, the Queen with her handsome 11 grays, ridden by postillians(?) arriving the last of the carriages, of course these were not sufficient for all who were invited, and a lot of hack carriages had to be hired, to accommodate the numbers that had been invited and in fact the Royal carriages had to make 2 or 3 trips from Osborne taking to the Church and bring passengers back. In one of the hack carriages which was anything but a respectable one, I saw 2 people disembark, one of whom was Lord Wolesley, the coachman for whom driving was most wretchedly appareled, and the - -horses not properly kept or groomed. All the - - the turnpike gates, near which Mr - - we had an excellent view of the - - - when the Queen passed and - - - the enthusiasm reached it - - and took - - as they passed. The road from Osborne to the Church is very picturesque and the - - they had to pass - - much agreeable , - - the sun beat down on the multitude so - - Australian heat.
The Clergymen, Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishop of Whitehall, Dean of Windsor, and the Vicar C- Matthews(?), were in one carriage, but notwithstanding the number of Parsons, the ceremony appeared to have been performed in less than half an hour, judging by the time of the return. The Prince and Princess of Wales seemed very popular, and marked contrast to their reception and that of the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh and other notables. The foreign Princes and Princesses passed unheeded by, nor was there any outwardly demonstrative fervor of any of the Politicians past or present. One of the most conspicuous figures that caught my eye, was that of one of the Equerries riding alongside of the Queen’s carriage, General Sir John McNeil (of Zanzibar notoriety) in full regimentals. I looked in vain for the Empress Eugenie, whom I have never seen, and wanted to see, and mere curiosity induced me to look for Gladstone who I now understand was invited but refused out of pique or something. Fortunately we took sandwiches with us, for the Prince of Wales - - where we seated near, had become a sort of pandemonium and carried me to the towns we see in some country districts in Australia, of a race day, no Lady nor Gentleman could enter it, and the fist fights that were continually going on beside, made one perfectly bewildered, especially of what was called the Royal Village wedding. We stayed till very tired out, and very much baked by the sun. About 5, the Bride and Bridegroom drove past on their way to (Queen’s?) Abbey House in an open carriage, and the four greys that had pulled Her Majesty in the morning. Unfortunately within a few minutes of the place one of the leaders fell, broke his knees, had to be taken out of his traces(?) and the happy pair had to content themselves with only a pair, a sad mortification to the Postillian, they must have been, or might he have been the victim of one glass too much when expressing his loyalty to the Throne. - L. Wise had been delayed watching the for the Bridge and Bridegroom, but we had a very pleasant pretty drive home, all the cottages we passed having flags and flowers festooned in and about. At Wootton great demonstrations were being made, 2000 children were being entertained with tea and cake and nearer Ryde another lot of school children were likewise entertained on the grounds of --. I forgot to mention that a detachment of the 93rd Highlanders with their fine band, besides their pipers, were on duty, and towards the end of the day’s proceedings, the Dray and 4 returning to the Regiment drove up with sales on the outside, on which sat many of the officers who had been on duty at Osborne.
24th July 1885, Friday (very light pencil, difficult to read)
Felt very unwell, pains in back of head, joints and lmbs. Took Dr Kidds medicine for - - Went with Grace by train to - -to lunch with the Cosways. The only two remaining - - who were the youngest of the family. I was surprised to see them looking so - - a gray hair on their heads, well dressed, and their manners evidently their - - with good society. - - stayed at their house - - - much the same as - - as the sea was - - is as it was. - - glad to hear of Aunt Sophy and - -promised to write to her, and I gave them her address. They are very anxious that we should see their brother Halliday, who lives at Glenthorne(?) has a family of daughters but no son, which of course is a matter or regret to them all. They wish us to come over to Cowes before we leave these parts in order to meet him. At the Cosways we met a Mrs and Mrs Everett and her sister Mrs L. Rattray , wife of Captain Rattray who had come over from Southampton to witness the wedding procession yesterday at Whippinham. They had written to the Cosways to see if they could get them tickets for the inclosure near the Church. Portentously the Miss Cosways had received from Sir Henry Ponsonby two tickets for themselves, and which tickets they gave to these two ladies, but which had they known of our desire to be present they would most willingly would have reserved for us. Indeed they seemed to regret having lost the opportunity to give them to us in preference. Mrs Rattray is very anxious to purchase a pony of 14 hands high now for sale at Ryde, belonging to a Admiral(?) Barderon who bought the animal (an Arab) from Egypt where he rode him during the campaigns. He only wants 10 for him. And to get him in the service of one who will take care of and use him well. Returned by 5.28 train to Ryde. Grace had not time to call at Redferns the celebrated man milliner at Cowes. The fares on the Isle of Wight railways are very high. I paid for return tickets for Grace and myself 6/- and it is only a half hours journey.
25th July 1885, Saturday (very light pencil, difficult to read)
A very warm day. Thermometer in -- at Ryde Pier middle of day 127°, in the shade over 90.° Did not feel well, very weak and pain in back of head. Took a short stroll in afternoon to Esplanade , on my return saw a large crowd of people collected at the top of Union St waiting in expectation of seeing her Majesty who it was said was about to go - returning from Queen’s House where she had been visiting the Bride an Bridegroom.
Two Miss Croftons (daughters of a Major Crofton living near Ryde) and their German Governess called on the Miss Wises. They -- -the Shortlands and Miss Selby to the Tennis ground which Miss L Wise has rented from a person at the end of Union St.
Called at Chemist in Union St to get the medicine he had made up for me, charge (blank) as what he sent seemed to burn my chest and throat very much. H explained that the difference of (taste?) might have arisen by a certain preparation of the Sarsaparilla.
26th July 1885, Sunday
Quite an Australian summer day, the heat more excessive than yesterday. All the family went to Church in the morning. Grace and I unable to go. We however went to afternoon service with Louise Wise. And in the evening Annie Wise went with Miss Shortland and Miss Selby.
I did not get up till 11, and feeling weak, pain in head and bones, and tending to colic, the putting ginger in my mouth however seems to act as a panacea.
Notwithstanding the heat of the day, the flowers in the garden seem s bright and beautiful as ever, and the garden and little open conservatory at the end of the dining room is altogether - - for geraniums, celceolanias, Joselias. And the little birds which have nests all around come tripping on the (carpet?) and are as tame as cage birds, one robin has been treated for 2 or 3 years and sometimes comes into Miss Louise Wise’s bedroom.
Just as I was going to bed and whilst in the act of stooping, I was seized with a severe pain about the hip joint which prevented me from rising without very acute pain, and when in bed I could not turn without assistance. I attributed it to a sudden wrench which I must have given to myself.
27th July 1885, Monday (very light pencil, difficult to read)
Could not sleep or turn in my bed all night long, the pain in hip joint Miss - - I had previously met her in America - - . Towards 11 o’clock Grace - - who came with - - Belladonna plaister. About 2 o’clock I - - but had to go and - -
28th July 1885, Tuesday (very light pencil, difficult to read)
Felt somewhat better and had - - . Wrote to Stovin who is at Launia(?) - -also to Fydrick(?) Russell. Dr Turner called - - prescribed pills. In the afternoon a Major and Mrs Crofton (living near Ryde) called and their cousin Miss Crofton. Mrs Crofton was a Miss Norris and is she tells me a cousin of Harrisons(?) of Sydney. Major Crofton knows Bumsin(?) well, was living near him in Devonshire, at (blank) Abbey, which he rented for only 100 a year. It is the property of the Drakes, whose ancestor was Sir Francis Drake of historical celebrity. Major Crofton is a cousin of our Mrs Dobson in Bath and the cousin Miss Crofton who came with him is also a cousin, daughter of an Admiral Crofton.
29th July 1885, Wednesday
Cloudy in morning, fine sunshiny morning after 12. Pain in the hip joint still continues, nevertheless Grace and I went by train at 12.28 to West Cowes to lunch with the Cosways. At 1.30 found their brother Halliday had arrived. They wished us to sleep there owing to my indisposition, I preferred returning to Ryde. They have asked us to come and stay with them after we visit Southsea. After leaving the Cosways at 4, we drove to Redferns the man dressmakers. Grace had a long (confab?) about the dresses and left her pattern. Most of the people I saw in the shop were nice looking girls, all the many departments seemed to be presided over by them. All well dressed and all boasting fine figures and good looks. We left Cowes by train at 5.26 and reached Ryde by 6 where we had a comfortable Brougham to take us up the (hill?) to Miss Wises. Dr Turner called a 3rd time and prescribed for me and was of opinion it would not be in any way injurious my going to Cowes.
Drank whisky by advice of Dr Turner, and our going to bed, took his pills which he says contain a small particle of Blue Pill and - -.
Grace complaining of stiff neck.
Played whist till 11 with Miss Shortland as my partner, Miss L Wise and Miss Selby our opponents.
30th July 1885, Thursday (very light pencil, difficult to read)
Did not get up till 1 o’clock, pains - - miserable severe - - Miss Wise having wished to – village - - Brading. Dr Turner called in a - - my continuing to - - going to - -
31st July 1885, Friday
Rather cooler today and sun obscured till afternoon. Dr Turner called at 12.30, 5th visit he has done(?) me, prescribed an acid medicine today, after taking which I have to wash my mouth out with bicarbonate of soda and teaspoon full dissolved in tumbler of water. This medicine is given to allay the great heat of body which I am suffering from (prurigo).
I did not go out all day. The College examination and distribution of prizes took place today in Ryde, to which Miss Louise Wise, Miss Shortland and Miss Selby went.
1st August 1885, Saturday
Dr Turner called to visit me again today, 6th visit. Asked him what his fee was, which he stated was only 1.10. I gave him 2.2 which he says was too much! Felt a little better. At 3 o’clock left Ryde, (Miss L Wise accompanied us to the Pier) and went to Southsea to stay with my cousin Susan Downman. In the afternoon Susan Graham, her two daughters returned having been on a visit to Chester and London. Her other daughter, (wife of Corporal Dick now in Cairo) stayed with her brother while her husband is away. Her eldest daughter (wife of Captain Nicholson) lives near here and has two children, Edith a handsome girl of 17, and a son Graham Nicholson who going into the Engineers. Captain Whalley Nicholson is a nephew of the late Whalley M.P. the Claimants Supporter.
2nd August 1885, Sunday
We drove at 10.15 to Portsmouth Harbour having been invited with Susan Downman to attend Church and lunch with Captain and Mrs Burgess(?) Watson on board H.M.S. St Vincent, Man of War, a boat was sent to meet us, and we punted a short distance to where the St. Vincent was moored. She is an old 3 decker, on board which there are upwards of 1,000 boys in training for the Navy. We were surprised to find not only S. A - - of the Lydone(?) and his unmarried daughter, but Dr Fischer (Mrs Watson’s father) who has not long since returned from Sydney via America. He was very glad to see me, says he did not intend to return to Sydney to practice. He was full of his visit to America, to the Colorado Mountains which are 14,000 feet high, as high as Mt - - . We left the ship after lunch and came back to Southsea by train. We got out in the vicinity of Mrs Nicholson (the daughter of Susan Graham married to Captain Whalley Nicholson) - -call her on the way, but she and her daughter both seemed tired and gone up. Having been on Friday night to a large Ball at Southsea which was called the “Goodwood Ball” always taking place in Portsmouth just after the Goodwood Races. Some of the girls went to Church on their way with a young Midshipman from H.M.S. Maitland(?) Harold Grenfel, who is a sort of cousin of the Grahams. On their return from Church Captain and Mrs Watson with Dr Fischer and also Dr Marsh (formerly Assistant Naval Surgeon on board the Nelson) whom we knew in Sydney, came to supper and remained talking and laughing till after 10. Dr Marsh is now Surgeon to the Marine Artillery and stationed on the “Excellent” not the old “Excellent” I used to know and stay on board at Wemyss and Fellowes 45 years ago, but composed of that old man of war, the stern of one and the forepart of another connected by a bridge between the two. Dr Marsh has been at (son china?) and came home with the Surates(?) a short time ago, he has been laid up at Harley Hospital with fever contracted in Egypt, but is now convalescent, though he has grown very thin and is now growing a beard, He tells me his crest is the same as mine, and has offered to put my name down at the Naval Club as an Honorary Member. He tells me Captain Dale R.N. is in the “Devastation” and Captain Henderson, formerly of the Nelson, is on the Duke of Wellington, the ship stationed at Portsmouth.
Captain Watson mentioned having seen on board his ship this afternoon, after we had left, Jim Mitchell who married Catie Forbes. He is staying nearr Portsmouth with his brother-in-law, Wilde of the Marines. Captain Watson also mentioned that Mr Hotham and Mrs Knight (nee Robertson - -) who was lately married to a Naval Officer here, are both living in Southsea, also Mrs Maxwell (daughter of the late Sir George Wigram Allen of Sydney).
3rd August 1885, Monday
Rather a cold wind blowing, a general holiday today. All the shops shut in consequence. Awoke with a very severe headache, and the pain in my hip joint sciatica, and back of leg still keeping me from much exertion. I did not go out all day in consequence. Grace went for a short stroll with Susie Graham. She had severe head ache this morning. Numerous visitors called here, first of all a Mr and Mrs (Sherekes?), she is descended from our common ancestor Dr Gostling of Whatson(?) Park, her grand mother was a Miss Gostling also married a Mr Graham and their daughter married a Mr (Hawes?) was Mrs (Shambs?) mother, the other sister married General Sir L Jephson Bart, Old (Hosam? Slocam?) had a cousin in Australia Bryce Bunny, also went to school with me in 1825 at (Reding?) just 60 years ago. He has just had intelligence of his death in Melbourne, formerly a Judge in the Colonies somewhere. After the (Shercks? Swerches?) came Major and Mrs Simpson, he only returned yesterday from Egypt, has Regiment the 18th Royal Irish, being stationed in Cairo, he has only six weeks leave of absence - - he will have to return at the end of the - - he has suffered somewhat from the - - glare he has been exposed to in - - and the eye even now looked very weak and -- he was about “to get it - - - Australia. He - - later came Captain Fischer and officers of H.M.S.Excellent, to an afternoon dance on board on Saturday, and which we have refused as we shall be leaving Southsea by that time.
4th August 1885, Tuesday
Felt better today in all respects. Prerigo(?) better. Lovely day, about 12.30 Grace, Susie Graham and I went by Steamer to West Cowes, taking other passengers in at Ryde which delayed us a quarter of an hour; and therefore did not reach Cowes till nearly 2 o’clock. Today happened to be the Cowes Regatta and the yachts we saw on the way, and at anchor at Cowes Harbour as simply countless. The water was beautiful and the steamers crowded with excursionists going to Cowes as well as to Southampton. As it was so late in the afternoon we on arrival determined to have lunch at once, and we all went to the Fountain Hotel, near the Steamer Pier, and had cold meat, pickled ham, charged 3/- in each, 9d for attendance, and 9d for a glass of milk and a glass of acid wash(?) 10/6 in all. After this we went to Redfern’s the Ladies Tailor where Grace chose a dress for herself. We were detained here for upwards of half an hour and then walked to the Cosways. We were ushered upstairs into the Drawing room, the servant having told us they were in, but afterwards came to say he had made a mistake, and found that they had just gone out. Left Cosways and went a little stroll in front of the Royal Club House, the grounds of were crowded with members and their well dressed female friends. In the hopes of meeting the Cosways, Grace and Miss Graham walked near the beach and I up the Linn(?) where I met in the way Major and Mrs Crofton and Miss Selby, Miss Shortland from Ryde.
I had formerly met W Gilchrist(?) and his wife, have had a yacht of their own, on which they were then going on board on their way to (Wales?), he told me he had hired the yacht for the summer.
We left Cowes at 5.10 as we had taken a return ticket from Portsmouth, for which I paid 3/- each, and found on board Mrs Williams and her sister Mrs Knight (lately married) they arrived in England about April, and came home on the same ship with Lady (Inns, Irons?) Commodore Erskine, Captain Date &c. Mr Knight was formerly in H.M.S. Nelson in Sydney and is now stationed in Portsmouth. She has lost her beauty completely, both face and figure have altered for the worse, and her complexion is bad, pale and freckled.
5th August 1885, Wednesday
Another lovely day. Suddenly attacked with great pain in my heel and ankle, evidently connected with the sciatica from which though still suffering, am better, notwithstanding Susan, her daughter Susan (such a nice girl) Grace and myself went by train to Cookson, an outskirt of Portsmouth, about two miles. From hence we went in a carriage to Portsdown to lunch with my cousin George Downman (formerly Captain in the 66th Regiment) who has a military appointment and lives in a very pretty little cottage, which was the Government Quarters allowed him. He made us very welcome, and gave us a capital luncheon, the best duck and green peas I have tasted, and some delicious sherry, which he luckily purchased at the sale of the late Sir W Knighton not long since. He seems to have much the same taste as myself, has his horses, his cows, his garden and his family relics around him. He very kindly gave me a very old Bible which belonged to my (our) great grandfather Milbourne Marsh, and showed me the two old miniatures hanging up of our grandfather and grandmother (John Marsh). Susan Graham called my attention to two beautiful old silver dishes and four silver salt cellars, but Downman never knew to whom they actually formerly belonged, until I drew his attention to their having the Marsh crest upon them (the horse’s head), showing that they had formerly belonged to our grandfather John Marsh.
On our way to Portsdown Hall, we passed the Hilsea Barracks, opposite which my Aunt Lady Downman used to live with George Downman before he was married. - - is the Church called Win----y Church where she is buried. On our return to Southsea Grace and I and the two girls went to call on Mr and Mrs Streach, who have a nice house (No.9 Clarence Parade) at Southsea exactly opposite Ryde, which today was remarkably distinct, and which they say is a sign of coming rain. Streach afterwards took us to the Royal Albert Yacht Club, to which he has introduced me as an Honorary Member and where I met a Colonel Lys, of the Artillery.
6th August 1885, Thursday
Most lovely day, it had rained in the night, but cleared when we started for Lyndhurst, in the New Forest where my cousin Major Downman lives. We drove to the Railway at Portsmouth at 9 o’clock and left 9.25 passing through Fratton, Cosham, Portchester, Fareham, Botley, and Bishopstoke. Here we changed carriages and went by a different line of railway, passing through Southampton for West Mulbrook, Redbridge, Totten, and Ely arriving at Lyndhurst about 11.30. We were met by John Downman and his son Charlie, the former driving Grace and Susan in a four wheeled pony carriage, and the latter Susie and myself in a very nice Forest Dogcart. The drive was very pleasant and we immediately entered upon the New Forest, which I had never seen before. The trees were beautiful and the different peeps of the glades that me our view continually were such that artists might have longed to sketch. We passed an encampment of Volunteers, all their tents pitched on the common surrounded by the wild – heath in full bloom, and the ferns growing wildly and luxuriantly. In anticipation of either a Fair or a Race, numbers of covered vans (like in construction to the peep shows of a former day) were all drawn up near the encampment and the donkeys and ponies of the gypsies were turned out to forage, as persons travelling in the bush of Australia were accustomed to do. The Downmans live three miles away from the station, and we arrived at their house about 12. Mrs Downman was formerly a Miss Backhouse (daughter of Captain Backhouse of the 83rd Regiment) and a niece of the late Sir George Backhouse (who married a Miss Gostling?) Downman rents the place from a family named Stephens who have a pretty park adjoining, in fact part of his (Downman’s) domain is the Park. At 2 we had lunch and Goldfinch and his wife (nee Betty King) came to meet us. I thought she was looking very well, though they say she is far from well. Her two children came to see us afterwards and her mother-in-law Mrs Goldfinch (Miss Mereweather) and her daughters were to come to see us after lunch, but we left at 3 to catch the train to Portsmouth at 3.36 and started. On our way we met Mrs Goldfinch and her daughter on their way, wating but we were so afraid of losing this train, that Susie told the Coachman to drive on, and missed speaking to them. Rain seemed threatening too. We were afraid of getting wet, but fortunately we got to the station in good time, before the rain came. We reached Portsmouth at a little before 6, and found that very heavy rain had fallen just before, with thunder and lightning. The carriage met us and took us safely to Clarendon Road.
Downman gave me an old Prayor Book that had belonged to our great grandfather Milbourne Marsh 1709, the same person to whom the old Bible belonged which George Downman gave me yesterday. My pain in the foot and the sciatica much better, in consequence of my having applied a remedy last night, which Susie Graham got me, Eleman’s Liniment.
At lunch, some hot house grapes were put on the table, obtained from Colonel McLeay. He is a nephew of Sir George McLeay and lives opposite the Downmans. He is away now, but is gardener has the permission to sell the grapes. I hear he has somewhat lost money lately in the Frozen Meat Company in Australia. My cousin Downman gave me several photographs of himself, his two sons, one of whom is Captain in the 92nd Highlanders now in Egypt, and engaged to be married to a Miss Vandeleur. The other Charlie a nice youth, lives at home but is not being brought up to any profession, and lives an idle life.
Downman wishes us to go and stay with him after our return to London, and arranging for our return voyage to Sydney.
I forgot to mention that after leaving Cosham we came in sight of Portchester Castle, an old ruin, but which was quite a factor in the scene, and as the tide was high, was well reflected in the water which is at the bottom of the grounds on which it was built.
13th August 1885, Thursday
Felt very unwell on awaking, head aching, and rheumatism in joints. Fine day, had breakfast at 10. Went afterwards to Dr Dickenson’s, absent from town and will not return till September. Dr Owen of 5 Hertford St, May Fair, looks after his patients , to whom I went. He is a young man, not seen a great deal of practice I should think, and therefore hardly wins the confidence of his seniors. I however, consulted him, paid him £1.1 and he prescribed medicines which I thought it more prudent not to take. He sounded my lungs and heart, the latter he said was feeble, though no organic disease. Went to Day’s Circulating Library in Mount St, Berkeley Square, and ordered 2nd Law book. After lunch went into the City first to the P&O Steamer Navigation Company Office, Leadenhall St, to speck about the Goldfinch’s going out with us in Carthage, the only chance they have of a cabin is in the event of Thornton giving his up. From thence to A.S.J. Stock Bank.
14th August 1885, Friday
Still feeling unwell.
15th August 1885, Saturday, London
16th August 1885, Sunday, London
Warm day, felt very unwell all day, but went for a stroll in afternoon but got soon tired and leg weary and returned in Omnibus.
On going to bed, I ordered a glass of hot whiskey and water.
17th August 1885, Monday, London
Awoke in middle of night with excruciating head ache, and intense nausea. In consequence did not get up till 12. Went to the A.J.S. Bank in afternoon and drew for another £100 on Sydney. Received letters from Fanny by “Liguna” of 12th July.
Sent Debretts Peerage (of 1883) to Mrs Barlow (Dorothy Hemps(?)) as a present, and looked over Walfords Books, in the Strand. Felt very weak all day, hardly able to walk.
18th August 1885, Tuesday, London
Left London at 2.15 by Waterloo train, reached Weymouth a little before 6.30, felt tired and knocked up with the journey, and I was shaken very much by the jolting of the train. Apparently a most unevenly laid line.
Had intense nausea and regurgitation of food today, kidney out of order as well. The Harrisons and Miss Crane left Covent Garden Hotel. The French lady has at their request asked me on my return to Sydney to tell their father I had met them in London. Arrived in Weymouth, went to the Miss Alleynes and joined Grace there, 7 Waterloo Place, Esplanade.
19th August 1885, Wednesday, Weymouth
Did not get up till 12. So tired and unwell. Took Dr Kidd’s Remedy, terrible. Also the acid mixture prescribed by Dr Owen. Did not go out of doors all day.
Grace posted my two letters to Fanny, and Heron which will go by the “Austral.”
20th August 1885, Thursday, Weymouth
Felt unwell all day, rheumatic fever all over, shoulders, loins, region of kidneys, ancle. Did not get up till 12 and lay down after (at 2) the rest of afternoon. Felt weak, dizzy and motes before one’s eyes. Took pill prescribed by Dr Turner (in Ryde).
21st August 1885, Friday, Weymouth
Took a 2nd pill (Dr Turner’s prescription) this morning. Did not get up till late in afternoon. Had nothing but beef tea all day.
22nd August 1885, Saturday, Weymouth.
Got up at 1 o’clock, and at 4 went for a short stroll one end of Esplanade to the Bridge past Post Office. Felt weak and giddy. The Miss Alleynes went for a drive with Grace.
A Regatta going on at Weymouth, amongst the yachts saw the house where George 3rd used to live, now the Gloucester Hotel, it having been built originally by the late Duke of Gloucester. At the end of the Esplanade there is a statue erected to the memory of George the 3rd in 1809 to commemorate the 50th year of his reign. A very tawdry sort of statue, a gilt lion on one side, and gilt unicorn on the other, at the back of the statue there is an inscription stating that in those days of trouble and distress that had fallen on the Nation if would be unseemly to obtain satisfaction for dinner or entertainment which had better be kept, for our prisoners abroad.
23rd August 1885, Sunday, Weymouth
Beautiful day, did not get up till 1. Took a 2nd pill. Grace went to Church with the Miss Alleynes. Rash troublesome still. In the evening a stroll on the Esplanade.
24th August 1885, Monday, Bath
Rash still troublesome.
Received letter from Fanny of 12th July, by Steamer ‘Rome.’ Felt better today, and at 3.25 left Weymouth by Great Western Train, reaching Bath by 6.30, a little over three hours travelling. Passed through Dorchester, Yeovil, Castle Cary, changed carriages and line at Westbury, and thence to Trowbridge, Bradford, (pretty interesting place and country) Bathampton and Bath.
We went to lodgings taken for us by a Miss Taeffe, Belgrave House, No.7 South Parade, at £1.11.6 per week. Not far from the Railway, and close to the Abbey and Baths. The lodging house keeper’s name is Bayley. Their daughter assists in the waiting, but in a fine handsome girl, and one who (in Australia) would not condescend to act in such a position.
25th August 1885, Tuesday, Bath
Beautiful day and very warm. Drank the waters of Bath for the first time. Hired a cab and drove to Sir Hill, and called on Mrs Dobson who though better than she looks ill, and of a wretched lead like colour. Her cousin, Mrs Blommarl (formerly Luttrell) is staying with her as well as her husband who is under a course of the Bath waters for Rheumatism.
I consulted Dr Ferry of Guy St as to taking the warm Baths, he tells me I might take one as an experiment, but not to drink the waters as long as my tongue has such a furred and foul appearance. He told me to take a warmth Bath this evening at 5 o’clock at a temperature of 98° and to be immersed only 12 minutes. Showed him Dr Turner’s prescription of pills, but it is so worded that no other chemist but the man in Ryde can make it up. There must be Dr Ferry says, some private formula between Dr Turner and the chemist. Dr Ferry knows and has attended Mrs Denman and Mrs Becker, formerly of Sydney and attends Miss Becker now.
26th August 1885, Wednesday, Bath
Did not get up till 11.30. Dr Ferry called to see me at 12.30 and sent me medicine, a stomachic and he is to call again on Tuesday.
Took a short stroll with Grace after lunch up Mission St. Shops appear very good, but the place appears “very dead and alive,” nothing of the brightness and lightness of Cheltenham.
27th August 1885, Thursday, Bath
Raining off and on all day. At 5 took my 2nd Bath for 15 minutes at 98° temperature.
Wrote to Susie Graham, Spring Bank, Perth sending manuscript of the Milbourne family and his saving life of the Marquise of Montrose. Wrote also to Mrs Barton (Holbrook, Wincanton)
28th August 1885, Friday, Bath
Beautiful day, went for a stroll with Grace up Wilson St. After lunch I drove to Mrs Harris, Sydney Place, Bathurst Road, and walked back. They had been of Henry Heron’s congestion of Brain and lungs, and thought that he was in a fair way of recovery and out of danger. Left two cheques of £7 and £5 to be cashed at the Provincial Bank (Quinn, Manager)
29th August 1885, Saturday, Bath
Took my 3rd Bath at 5 o’clock at the New Baths, under the Hotel. Remained in 20 minutes, and remained packed in hot sheet and towels for 20 minutes more. Heat of Bath 98. Grace also took her 1st Warm bath there earlier. In the evening Grace took a Bath chai9r and called on her friend Miss Dilks, (who had called whilst Grace was at the Bath) She is staying at 75 Great Pultney St.
The Salvation Army in full force this evening parading the streets with their band.
30th August 1885, Sunday, Bath
Did not go out all day, awoke with severe pain in head. Took medicine last night. Dr Turner’s pills. Grace went to the Abbey Church in the morning. She like the service and heard a good sermon (extempore) by a Rev Mr Newton. In the evening Grace took a Bath Chair and called on Miss Dilkes, 75 Great Pultney St. Mrs Heron sent us flowers by her maid in afternoon.
Opposite our lodging there is a magnificent new R.C. Church, St. John’s. The singing seems excellent. In afternoon the Bells kept continually pealing, and at the other end of the Parade the Salvation Army with the Brass Band, kept up a sort of opposition choir to the Church, which was distracting to a degree.
31st August 1885, Monday, Bath
Raining off and on all day. I took my 4th Bath today at 5, stayed in 20 minutes, and remained packed in warm sheets and towels another 20 minutes. Heat of the Bath 98.
The Rent of our lodgings, and provisioning became due today, in all £4.3.4 (the rooms themselves £1.16) Felt rather weak today.
May and Alathea Barton (of Holbrook, Wincanton) called after lunch to see us, they return by train in the afternoon, only about 1 ½ hours going to Wincanton.
1st September 1885, Tuesday, Bath
Received Australian letters, from Fanny, Marie with note enclosed from Mrs Stephen, and Chris Russell by the “Iberia” of 23rd July. I wrote long letter to Marie yesterday, inclosing Susie Graham’s letter to me from “Spring Bank,” Perth, Scotland. The news of Heron’s severe illness is alarming, and I fear from the accounts, there is not much hope of his recovery. I am very grieved to hear of his state of body and mind too. Grace took her 2nd Bath at the Rooms. Whilst absent Mrs Blommarl (nee Luttrell) a cousin of Mrs Dobson’s, with whom she and her husband are staying, called to say that Mrs Dobson was taken ill again, and would not be able to see us on Thursday to lunch, as she wished and arranged. Late in afternoon Mrs Heron and her daughter called, they seemed to think that their last letters from Sydney gave every hope of H.Heron’s recovery.
Dr Terrycalled and paid his 2nd visit to Grace and myself. Paid Mrs Bailey for apartments &c £4.3.4.
2nd September 1885, Wednesday, Bath
Raining off and on all day, and colder than usual. There is to be a Grand Flower Show in Bath today and tomorrow, and the Church Bells are ringing now “like mad,” for the purpose, it is said, of “waging away the rain.” It is now 1 o’clock and they are no signs of it raining! Never was I so conscious of “time slipping away,” as since I have been in Bath, just across the road there is a St John’s R.C. Church which the clock in the Tower chimes every quarter of an hour, and at each hour as it strikes you cant “get away” from the truth that is thus continually knelled out whether you will or no, that life is momentarily ebbing, and that at every chime your days have become fewer on Earth than they were! Past and gone, never to be recalled! “Youth” never think seriously of time or flections of moments, only “old age” as it comes creeping on and over us.
Had my 5th warm mineral Bath, at a temperature of 98, and remaining in 20 minutes. Left at 6 and came home in a Bath Wheel Chair on account of the rain and damp.
Wrote to Dr Fischer, also to my cousin Captain Downman, Portsdown Hill, including the (manuscript?). Had Grouse for dinner, 5/- the brace.
3rd September 1885, Thursday, Bath
Fine in the morning early, but at 10 o’clock it came on to pour with rain, lasted some time, then cleared and rained again “heavens hard.” After lunch we got a cab (between the showers) and dove to the Sydney Gardens where the Flower Show was being held in several different tents. We had only just got within the gates when the rain came down in torrents, coming through the tents, and making the ground under us sloppy and muddy in the extreme. Umbrellas had to be held up to save clothes from the heavy dripping through the tents. The first tent we entered was full of flowering plants, Geraniums, Orchids, Heaths, Ferns, of all kinds, the next one, the largest and most imported “Queen of the Wish” as it was called, had magnificent Geraniums of all kinds and dazzling colors, one a whitish colored kind was named “Miss Gladstone,” another dark red one “Henry Jackson,” the Gladioli were numerous and fine. The cut roses most beautiful and emitting the most fragrant perfume. The Crotons were fine, and the Dahlias the finest I ever saw. So indeed, were the China and German Asters, which were exhibited in every variety of form and color. Verbenas were varied and rare, and Double Hollyhocks I never saw before. What struck Grace most was what she called the wonderful double Begonias, and the Pelargoniums. All this time we were kept prisoners in the tent by reason of the downpour, but after the full of the storm had expended itself, and the thunder overhead clearing the atmosphere, the sun shot forth, and we managed through the sloppy paths and muddy grass plots to reach the tent devoted to the exhibition of fruit. The specimens consisted of all kinds of Grapes, Figs, Peaches, Plums, Pears, Melons, Greenggas, Nectarines Cherries, Apricots, Apples. The Duke of Beaufort won the first Prize for Grapes, some of which were the white Muscat of Alexandria. He also won 1st prize for the best 8 dishes of table fruit, amongst which were some magnificent figs. The Marquis of Bath also won 1st prize in grapes of another class, and also for 8 plates of dinner fruit. This being the 2nd day of the Flower Show, the public were admitted for 1/- after 1 o’clock, and just as we were leaving we met crowds of people wending their way through the wet and wind to the Gardens, the Flower show having drawn thither persons fromm all parts, Clifton, Bristol, and other places. There was a very good Bank playing during the show, but they, the people present, appeared very common, though very orderly assemblage. Again I was struck by the extreme civility of the Police on duty, in answering questions asked them by the visitors.
Grace at 4.30 went to the Pump Room to take her 2nd glass of water today, and whilst out posted a long letter to Fanny with note inclosed for Lady Manning.
Reading “America Revisited” by G.A. Sala, (1882) profusely illustrated, which tempts one to dip into it, though I am sorry to say, I think the illustrations more attractive than the letter press.
The life of Sir Joshua Reynolds by C.R. Leslie R.A. (1865) which we have from the “Royal Literary & Scientific Institutions,” far more interesting.
4th September 1885, Friday, Bath
Pouring rain all day, with an occasional breaking which enable us after breakfast to go as far as the Post Office, where I posted a letter for Mrs Henry Stephen from Grace. A newspaper for Trevelyan, Captain Cooper, Arthur Hodgson. At 5 o’clock notwithstanding the rain, I managed to rush to the Baths and took my 6th Bath, at 98° for 20 minutes. Grace took her 3rd and drank the waters twice a day. Had a letter from Rev Mr Vaudrey, Rector of Owsington in Weymouth with two photographs of old “Moreton Hall” in Cheshire.
I see by the paper today, that Lady Carrington at present in 33 St.James’s Square, Bath, lost her purse yesterday at the Flower show. The purse containing more than £5.
I awoke this morning with very severe pain in top of head, and bitter taste in the mouth. As soon as I had taken a cup of hot tea at 8, the headache left me.
Took Dr Turner’s (of Ryde) Pills tonight.
5th September 1885, Saturday, Bath
A storm of rain in the morning, cleared the atmosphere and it became a beautiful day afterwards. Dr Terry called again today, making his 3rd visit to me. Sent medicine in the evening and has now prescribed drinking the water twice a day, commenced today, in addition to taking the Baths every other day. Mrs Dobson called after lunch in her carriage and brought us flowers and a bunch of grapes. She tells me that the Lady Carrington in St James’s Square, is not the wife of Lord Carrington, but the widow of a Baronet of that name who she knows. Had a fall over the pavement as I took the flowers she brought into the house, which frightened her rather. She is still suffering form cough and occasional loss of voice. Afterwards Grace and I took a stroll up Wilson St, she did some shopping, I called at Post Office, and then down Bridge St, on our return met Miss Heron who said she was just returning by train form a place called “Box.” Purchased a Peach for Grace price 9d. And had a partridge for dinner, price 2/6! Very plump, but not of the flavour I used to fancy partridges were. Felt better today, rheumatism less acute, and not so weak as I was. Sent “Bulletin” by General Crofton.
6th September 1885, Sunday, Bath.
Fine day. Grace went to Church (the Abbey) in the morning, another preacher from last Sunday, who gave an indifferent sermon. In the evening at 7.30 we both went to the R.C. Church St. John’s, just opposite our lodgings. On entering we were asked by the Verger whether we could sit in the middle or side aisle, and on choosing the former we paid 3d each and he then gave us two red counters which we presented to our pew official and were placed in comfortable seats. The Church itself is a very handsome one, very much after the plan of “All Saints,” in (Gaunt?) St, Sydney but with handsome red marble pillars and it has a very good choir, or rather two, for in addition to the surpliced men and boys in the G—end, there is also in the organ loft another choir of trained men and womens voices. After the chanting of several prayers (which must have lasted more than half an hour) the sermon was preached by some dignitary of the Church judging from the quantity of green and gold vestments he was appareled in. He was an Englishman, and evidently as well educated one. He preached from the text “Take ye one and other’s burdens upon you,” indicating the love of furthering love had above all being charitably disposed, and not putting the worst construction on the works and actions of our neighbours. It was of course, extempore, and well delivered, and the preacher impressed me as being a very good and sincere man. After the sermon, the rest of the service was continued which ended in the adoration of the Host. The Priest who preached the sermon officiating. There were several person sitting before us (probably Protestants of some denomination) who behaved very badly, for as soon as the sermon commenced, they walked out of the Church, to the astonishment it must have been of the Preacher (I understood the Rev Father Fleming). After lunch Grace and I took a stroll by the North Parade, over the bridge for which a toll of ½ each was charged, and then round towards the Sydney Gardens which we hoped to walk through, but found on arrival the gate closed, and no admission on Sunday! We manage these sorts of things better in Australia so far as opening them to the public on “Sundays.”
At the end of the South Parade, were we are staying, and at right angles with it to “Pierrepont” St (in one of which houses now divided into two) where Lord Chesterfield used to live and where he wrote his “Letters to his son.” We pass it every day as we go to the Baths and Pump Room.
7th September 1885, Monday, Bath
Went after breakfast to the Provincial Bank, and called on the Manager, Mr Quinn, and asked him to get my cheque for £12 on London cashed. He tells me that the System (one that Lysten (one that married Miss Lacks of Manly) are step children either of his wife or his. Returned to lunch at 1, and went out afterwards to the Hot Baths, and had my 7th Bath, at 98° and 20 minutes in it. I felt very headachy an hour afterwards, and all night too if suffered with pain in head. Took the waters twice today, only a small glassful each time. Heard from my cousin Captain George Downman, recommending me “Beechams” Pills for Rheumatism, and also Du Barry’s “Revalenta.”
Grace took her 4th Bath today.
8th September 1885, Tuesday, Bath
Heard from Charles Cowper (the Sheriff) by the Steamer “Carthage” 26th July date, acknowledging my letter to him. Grace and I went to the Pump Room and took our morning and evening glasses of water. After lunch we went in a cab to call on Mrs Heron and her daughters, they were out and had gone to Coombe Down, where they are going to remove to another house about 2 or 3 miles away from their present residence. There were out, having driven and to get things they had sent out, put away at Coombe Down. So we told the coachman to drive out after them, we met them half way and returned the road is in the direction of “Prior Park” very uphill, but very pretty the scenery, through shady lanes, and well built residences coming constantly in view. We passed close alongside the Lymncombe Cemetery, belonging to the Abbey, consisting of five acres which was formerly the property of the celebrated Bechford(?)
(five lines crossed out)
On our return from our drive we called on Mrs Dobson to inquire after her, found she had gone out also for a drive notwithstanding there was every appearance of rain, and the wind very cold. Before we got home (as we walked on our return) we were caught in a heavy shower, which lasted nearly all the evening. Grace having to take her fifth Bath Chair, she came to –
Grace wrote to Mrs Marsden of Clifton, Mrs Matthew Scott of “Redfern & sons” Isle of Wight (about Marie’s dress). Paid our lodging rent £4.9 including provisions. Had another Partridge for dinner.
9th September 1885, Wednesday, Bath
Heavy shower in the morning, but cleared afterwards, and about 11.30 I went by tram to the Bath Horse Show, held in the Lambridge Meadows at Grosvenor, about 2 miles from Bath. I had a ticket for the Grand Stand, but at first there were not so many people, probably owing to the threatening rain clouds which came and went past us and over us continually, however, after lunch, when the jumping of Hunters took place, crowds came in to witness the sport. There were several kinds of leaps to best the powers of the animals, over 2 hurdles capped with furze bushes, placed in a sort of way, that after leaping the first it necessitated making it almost a standing jump to get over the 2nd. Then there was a stiff 5 barred fence, made of poles, so that if the horse touched, the poles gave way and fell to the ground. Then there was a wall made of wooden cones (which were for the paving of streets), about 4 feet in height, the top layers also loose, so that if the horse touched they gave way. The last leap was over a fence and water, which some o the hunters went over beautifully, others fell short and one rider after the horse performed the leap, lost his seat, fell off his saddle on to the ground. A little shaken but not much hurt. The name of the horse was ‘Fella” (no.229) belonging to H.B. Farquharson of Tarrant Ganvil, nr Blandford. He was on a fine leaper, and it was the riders own fault he fell. There were upwards of 25 horses brought out and leapt, one after the other, according to the numbers they were entered in the show at. The horse that I thought should have won 1st prize was no.217 “Friar Ruth” but he was only awarded 2nd prize, and what seemed strange the horse who threw his rider (229) was ridden a second time and very well too, and he got the 1st prize. All these horses were put in Class 19. In Class 2 (up to not more than 14 stone) the 1st prize was won by a brown gelding belonging to Mr John Goodwin “Priory Comt” Cheltenham. (S. Mulatto, D. by Tom Steel) M Class 4 (suitable for hunting purposes) I should have given the prize to 47a “Standard Bearer” belonging to a Mr Deacon but he only obtained the 2nd. In Class 3 for horses regularly hunted by Exhibitors with certain packs of hounds in the neighbouring Counties, I picked out “Garrison” a handsome brown or rather black horse (belonging to a Mr Veavil of Melholam) and he won 1st prize, in addition to his other qualities he arched(?) beautifully. I am rather surprised that the 2nd prize was awarded to Mr Careless’ chestnut “The Judge” he had 4 white legs, and appeared to me to have been fired. There were 18 entries in this class 3. In Class 12 for Double Harness horses No.133 “Marble” and “Granite” belonging to Mr Pelham Greenhill of Clifton won 1st prize.
In Class 13, single harness horses, 1st prize was by “Lady Shrewsbury” a black mare belonging to Mr Robinson of Hull, and the 2nd prize to a Mrs Frisby (14 James St, Buckingham Gate, London) by “Movement”
a skewbald mare. (I wonder if this Mr Frisby is a connection of the Gidlens(?) in Sydney. There were 6 tandem entries, and the 1st prize was awarded to “Marble” and “Granite” (no.197), the same horses who won the prize for the double harness class. I was particularly struck at the way in which the leading horses traces were fastened, next to the Shaft horse, but to a single tree which was kept distinct from the traces of the shafts.
I was disappointed at the show of Cart horses, very inferior I thought, and not be compared to those that are exhibited in our Agricultural Shows in Sydney. On the other hand I was immensely struck at the care and trouble the Judges took in determining the qualities of each animal under their consideration. I saw several of them repeatedly mount the different horses themselves, and put them through their paces, trotting, galloping, walking &c, so that they might arrive at a fair decision. The Judges according to the printed list were:-
Sir Thomas Lennard Bart
W.H. Long Esq M.P.
- Kemble Esq.
- V. Ellird Esq.
“All good men and true.”
I was unfortunately not in time to see the “Hacks” or the “Ponies.”
I should mention that where the show was held, is most picturesquely placed, an amphitheatre, (of grassy hills, and well wooded) completely surrounding it. I remained till 4.30, and then hastened back to Bath by tram, in order to have my warm bath at 5, which makes my 8th Bath since I commenced having these. It came on to rain soon after, though cleared afterwards towards night. Grace also had her Bath and her waters.
I had a “Hurry skurry” sort of lunch in one of the tents on the Ground of the show, paid 2/6 and ate what I chose or what I could get; I fortunately stumbled on an uncut “pigeon pie” and an uncut “apricot tart” and enjoyed my repast, and then returned to my seat in the Grand Stand, which was then crowded. The horses, i.e. the Hunters were magnificent, the best part of the show, but what should have been an equally commendable ingredient (and generally found at such meetings) “pretty women” were conspicuous by their absence, there was not one that could be said to be even good looking! Such a pretty city as Bath is should most certainly be the nursery of “Maidens Fayre?”
10th September 1885, Thursday, Bath.
Received a letter from Trevelyan (Calverton, Stoney Stratford, Bucks) and wrote in reply. Grace wrote to Mrs Heron (32 Sydney Buildings, Bathwich Road) to postpone going with her on Saturday to Coombe Down. I wrote to S.F. Wise, Sydney, including Trevelyan’s letter and Miss Heron’s. Felt better, though I awoke with severe headache, which got well, from after taking a hot cup of tea. 2nd day of Bath Horse Show, but could not attend however. I had to wait till 12.30 to see Dr Terry (this makes the 4th visit paid). After we had lunch, Mary Barton paid us a visit, and she and Grace went shopping. About 5 it came onto pour with rain, and at ¼ to 6 I sent for a cab and took her, Mary Barton, to the Midland Railway Station, to go back to Wincanton at 6.15. Her sister Alethea came in with her today, but she went to the horse show, with a friend of her’s (Miss Selwyn) and both of whom we met at the station. Grace and I went afterwards to the Pump Room to drink our tumblers of water, arrived at 6.10, but the place was closed and were disappointed! Grace received a letter from Lady Somes(?) and replied to it.
11th September 1885, Friday, Bath
Cloudy and cold, with occasional showers. Had my 9th Bath today, at 98. Grace had one too, and both took the waters. Sent Morning Post to Lieutenant Roberts Solicitor, also to Wise and Times to Goodridge. Wrote to Wise inclosing Trevelyan’s letter to me.
12th September 1885, Saturday, Bath
Showers, and cold wind up to 3 o’clock. Passed the afternoon at Meehan’s the 2nd hand Bookseller, Gay St, purchased and paid for Captain Cook’s Voyages. Mrs Dilkes called and had afternoon tea with us. I then left for the “Midlands Railway” in order to meet Mary Wemyss, who came from Gloucester to stay with us a day or two. The train was late 15 minutes. I got a cab immediately after arrival, and drove Mary Wemyss to our lodgings.
13th September 1885, Sunday, Bath
A beautiful day. Grace and Mary Wemyss went to the Abbey Church in the morning. The Rev Mrs Holts preached whom they liked. After an early dinner Grace and Mary Wemyss went to call on a friend of the latter, the Rev Mr Wemyss-Whitaker who is the Rector of Widcombe, a mile away, he was out, but hey saw his wife. I went up to see Mrs Heron to arrange what day we should go together to her new residence at Combe Down. I found only herself, and we fixed Tuesday at 11 o’clock, when she is to call for us and drive us out. On my return I met Grace and Mary Wemyss in two Bath Chairs just going to call on Miss Dilkes, in Pattning(?) St. After tea Grace, Mary Wemyss and I went to the Roman Catholic Church opposite (St Johns) where we heard an admirable, well delivered topical sermon (better than the one we had last Sunday) by the Rev Father Clarke, who chose for his text “Let us look up to the curse from when cometh our salvation,” dwelling upon the meeting of our belief in such a (drepine?) not only for our present but our future happiness. The congregation most attentive and devout, and the singers both of the choirs, and those in the organ loft (men and women) particularly good and effective.
14th September 1885, Monday, Bath
Awoke feeling tired and pains in joints of feet which lasted all day long. After breakfast Grace, Mary Wemyss, and I walked to have a look at the excavations still going on at the lately discovered Roman Bath, several pillars (apparently of the Ionic order) were just brought to view, standing on all sides of what they call the Circular Bath. On our way purchased some grapes in the market at 2/- per lb. At ¼ to 1 ordered a cab and drove Mary Wemyss to Midland Railway, en route for Gloucester. The train did not leave till 1.20 so we were nearly half an hour waiting at the station. We saw a young lad about 14 years old, perfectly blind, being let about by a woman who appeared comparatively more like a servant than his mother. I was rather attracted by the boys refinement of countenance (blind that he was) and his being well dressed so I spoke to him, found that the woman was his mother, that he had been blinded, that he had been for 6 years at the Blind Asylum in Bath, and had learnt to read and write and also French and Latin, and had won a scholarship which gave him 30 a year and which enable his father to send him to some College at Worcester, where he had just obtained another scholarship of 20 a year more! He had been passing his holidays at his father’s, who is a baker in Bath, and his mother had brought him down to see how off by train to Worcester all by himself, and apparently so cheerful and patient.
After a late lunch, took a stroll with Grace up Milton St. Had my hair cut at (blank) the hairdressers and very well cut and he only charged 6/-!
I took my 10th Bath at 98° at 5 o’clock. Grace had her’s at 4. Drank the waters twice today also.
Had a telegram from Sir Saul Samuel this afternoon informing me that “Have just received telegram from Colonial Secretary as follows ‘Marsh’s leave extended to December twelfth.”
Sent newspapers to Roberts, Sir G Strickland, Captain Reston and Bulletin. Grace received her dress from Redfern & Sons (Cowes) went to Meehans the Bookseller again his afternoon.
15th September 1885, Tuesday, Bath
Awoke with a headache.
Beautiful day, warm sun and cool breeze. A 11 o’clock Mrs and Miss Heron called for us in a nice carriage and pair to take us to the new house they are going to at “Combe Down.” The drive there very pretty, but very hilly. We passed through the village of “Widcombes” past the old Church of Widcombe Hill caught sight of Widcombe Manor House, now the Rectory. Then through pretty well wooded lanes, through the Prior Park Estate and arrived at “Cotswold” which Mrs Heron has called her new residence, and in which the workmen are still engaged, repairs &c, and the charwoman hard at work scrubbing the floors as they take possession in a weeks time. The house is semi-detached, and has a pretty lawn and flower garden in front, and at the back an extensive kitchen garden surrounded by high stonewalls, against which are trained numerous fruit trees of various kinds, between 20 and 30. The house consists of a Dining room and pretty upstairs Drawing room with bay window and there are three bedrooms, one of which is to be made Miss Anne’s dressing room. In addition there is the servant’s bedroom (also upstairs) and a sitting room off the kitchen for them also, and the rent is only £35, and taxes £5! In “Sydney” such a place would obtain £100 a year. For the first time since I have been in England I saw the Myrtle growing here luxuriantly and in flower, the house is built of stone, and is only two storied but an old one, and therefore requires, I should think, attention to the roof and ceilings.
WE returned a different way to the one we came passing through Monckton Combe and Claverton where an old Manor house once peeped through the trees, and old fashioned walls, (terraces still standing) ornamented the grounds. Miss Heron said it was once a favourite place of resort of herself and her brother (in Sydney) and during his late illness, when brain fever set in this was the place he constantly talked of and wished to be taken. Not far from this we got sight of a very large handsome seat, built at the foot of a beautifully wood ridge, originally the property of the Shrines, then of the Gore-Langtons, called Narley House. After this we came in sight of Bathampton a very pretty town or village, built quite in the valley, but inconsequence not a dry house in the place, Miss Heron informed me. Before we reached Claverton we passed some village and Church of which the Rev Mr Pitcairn is the Rector. I was informed that though Stipends attached to nearly all these livings about here did not range beyond £70 to £80 a year. But of course the population in sparse and not much to do. Reached home by 1.30.
In the afternoon at ¼ to 4, Mrs Dobson sent her carriage for us, and on the way called for Miss Dilkes, to have afternoon tea with her, and young friend of Mrs Dobson’s (a Miss Poole) was staying with her. Mrs Dobson apparently much better. Had a letter and afterwards a telegram from the Secretary of New South Wales Government Agency, to know if I had received this telegram yesterday, as to the extension of leave, but I had previously that morning acknowledged it by letter.
Grace yesterday received her dress from Redfern & Sons, West Cowes, but unfortunately the body does not fit, so small that it will not button across the chest, and she wrote today about it to them.
I quite forgot to mention the beautiful view we obtained of the country just before arriving at Claverton. We were then driving round a lofty ridge, which terminated in meadows below, through which the Avon, the Kennet and Avon Canal, and the Great Western Railway to Weymouth pass within a few hundred feet of each other. All the hedges were full of blackberries just turning black, and the red berries of the Hawthorne everywhere which are signs betokening an early and severe winter. The trees also (some of them) have an autumnal tend
New diary in 1885
Passengers on the Carthage
Mrs and Miss Money
Mrs Golden and boy
Mrs and Miss Armstrong
Mr and Mrs Woodriffe
Mr and Mrs Goldinch and 2 children
Mr and Miss King
Mr and Mrs Murray and daughter
Dr and Mrs Atherton and 3 daughters
Mr and Mrs Since
Mr and Mrs Holland
Lord Bertie and A.D.C.s
Lady C. Scott
Mr and Miss Tucker and brother
Mr and Mrs Munro and 2 daughters
Mr and Miss Scott
Mrs Langdon and son
Mr and Mrs Melville
Mr and Mrs Gordon
Mr O Jones
Mr and Mrs James
Mrs and 4 Miss Chevings
Mr and Mrs Chapman
Mr Watson (photographer)
Mr Lark and son
Lord and Lady Carrington
Honourable Miss Harbord
Mr and 2 Miss Jebbs
Lieutenant Garrard R.N.
Thursday 26th October 1885
Fortunately a fine day, though no sunshine. Let our lodgings (10 Clarges St, Piccadilly) at ½ to 12 and drove down in 4 wheeler, 1st to the Bank and drew 50 out, leaving balance to my credit of 64. To meet outstanding and unpaid cheques. The accountant formerly at the end of a month to send Pass Book made up, to date, and pay all cheques that may be (betrict?) now and then be presented. Lunched at refreshment room at the Liverpool St Station, and on leaving it met Mr and Mrs Storin(?) who had come to wish us good bye. Storm accompanied me to the hairdressers, where I had my hair cut, he sitting beside me yarning away. Miss Mitchell (of Darling Point) and her cousin (Tea Mart?) were there too on Platform. The Mountfords (nee Cowper) were also at the Platform. Mrs James Manning and Annie and Mrs Whetray (Whatman?) and the old Goldfinch accompanied us to the train and came on board the carriage lying at (Tilbury?) Rhodes and her daughter were also on the platform to say good bye. Thomas Hood Hood also came to see some passengers.
The special train for which we had to pay 3/6 each), was crowded with passengers, their friends, Mrs Guest a friend of Mrs Hankins(?) brought another large parcel for C. Yorke. Ship sailed at 4 and towards evening anchored for the night. We found our cabin most inconvenient and though a 3 berth cabin, wretchedly small, a huge coal shoot and also ventilator as big as a Mainmast being right through it. The draughts on board the ship very disagreeable. Before we left London, the dress maker from Miss Hughes, brought her Bill, in which £5 more than agreed for was charged on one dress. Met Henrietta Heaton at the A.J.S. Bank who promised to send newspapers to me at Suez.
Friday 23rd October 1885
Cold raw day. Keen wind and rainy off and on. Wore 2 great coats. Entered the Bay of Biscay towards night. Ship rolled very much.
A little singing in the evening, by Miss Money, Mr Goldfinch notwithstanding the “Holman’s” Liver Pad” I recommended felt unwell and obliged to keep in her cabin.
Made 169 miles
Saturday 24th October 1885
Miss Lloyd obliged to keep her bed, also Miss McCarthie. Dr Atherton and his daughter also ill. Grace felt faint about breakfast time. Ada Rolleston a capital sailor. Made the acquaintance of a Mrs Wilks who is intimately acquainted with my cousins, the Downmans and the Grahams. A fellow passenger (Denne) is a brother officer of George Downman in his 92nd Highlanders (Gordon). Reading auto-biography of late Anthony Trollope.
Made 295 miles.
Sunday 25th October 1885
Large congregation assembled in Salon, for Church, Captain Hector read the prayers and an effective choir improvised. Mr Clarke, who has been 10 years at Crystal Palace in that Choir acted as accompanist on the piano. Sea wonderfully calm. Ports open today. Found out that a Miss Wilkinson (daughter of the District Court Judge) was on board, also a Mrs Woodriffe (daughter of the late Rev J. Tingcombe).
Ada Rolleston and Miss Lloyd gave their first tea party. Marion McCarthie made her appearance at it, and has regained her spirits which sea sickness dispelled. Grace had a tumble and blackened her eye at little. Recommended the Australian “Reisling”, very much approved of as a wine. Captain Hector says he is an Australian born in Tasmania.
Made 313 miles.
Monday 26th October.
Fine and much warmer. Thermometer in cabin 70°. Passed Cape St.Vincent about 3p.m. Very smooth sea. Made the acquaintance of Lady C. Scott (nee Ryan of Melbourne), introduced also to Mrs, Miss (& Mr?) King, relations of Mrs Goldfinch, also to Mrs Davenport, who knows Captain Dick at Cairo, whither she is journeying. Ada Rolleston trying to make poetry, in the evening on several of the passengers. Miss Lockyer sang, also Miss Money.
Found our cabin very small and inconvenient and in addition to the Coal Shoot there is also a ventilator which takes up1/3 of the cabin. The “Whetnox” too is so built in by bed and washing stand that only 2 shelves can be used, no lamp, in cabin the only light that which comes from the lamps in passage.
Made 298 miles
Tuesday 27th October 1885
Lovely day, much warmer, passed Gibraltar about 6 a.m. Sighted land all day and saw the hills of the “Sierra Nevada,” South Spain, the loftiest range 11,000 feet high, capped with snow. At 3 o’clock a general meeting of passengers held to form Committees for “Amusements” etc. Mr Money elected Chairman of General Committee and the other Members Dr Atherton, Dr James, Mr Darchy, the 3 A.D.C., Mr Clarke, Mr Thornton, Captain Mosely, Mr Newdigate, Mr Murray, Mr Bruce.
All the names were put on List before the meeting assembled, ready cut and dry.
Thermometer at 10 p.m. 72° in cabin. Very little music in the Saloon this evening. Made the acquaintance of Mrs Murray of Melbourne and her daughter (of Melbourne).
Lamp candle fixed tonight in our cabin.
Made 311 miles today at noon.
Wednesday 28th October 1885
Made 325 miles up today. Off the Coast of “Algiers.”
Beautiful day. In the evening dancing was for the first time instituted, commencing with the Lancers. Introduced Lord Bertie and Captain Terry to Ada Rolleston. (after tinks?) kept up till nearly 11 o’clock. Beautiful moonlight night, the moon rising right ahead of the vessel.
Thursday 29th October 1885
Had a disturbed night. The noise and thumping of screw and engine keeping me awake, and growing(?) headache.
African coast visible until afternoon when thick rain came on, obscuring the outline of hills.
Sports inaugurated today and the Committee, consisting of races with spoon and egg, cock fighting, flat races, and “obstacle races,” all sorts of obstructions placed in the way of the runners. The two Miss Athertons amongst the Ladies, were the quickest runners. As we hope to be in Malta tomorrow passengers busy writing letters. Grace wrote to Mrs Stavin, Lady Muney, Mrs Musgrave, Mrs Trevalyan, Mrs Paterson, Mrs J. Manning, M Wemyss, and niece, Miss Alleyne. I to Stavin, Parker the Tailor, Manager of Crescent St Hotel, Mary Barton.
Friday 30th October 1885
Arrived at Malta at 6 a.m. Beautiful day, hot sun, cool wind. Grace was accompanied on shore by Miss Rolleston and (Miss?) Lloyd, Maria McCarthie, Miss Merewether, Miss Maud, Jackson. The boatman charged 6s each, and we hired a carriage after much haggling with the drivers, to take us to the Post Office where I posted 1 dozen letters from ourselves and others from our young companions. 3 ½ each letter to England. After this we went to the Lace Shops, I then to the “Grand Hotel.” Grace with 3 girls to lunch, and I with Miss Jackson and Miss Merewether to a Pastry Cooks to get tea and coffee. Then went after to St. John’s Church, I intended to go too, but when I entered, on putting my silk cap (which on a previous occasion I had worn there) I was informed by one of the officials and afterwards by a Priest, that I must take it off or retire! And therefore not wishing to get a cold, I left and waited outside for our party. About 3 o’clock when they came out, we hired two carriages to take us to Citta Vecchia, a distance of 6 miles for which we made a bargain with the driver to take us there and back for 4/- each carriage. The road there most uninteresting, not a tree to be seen and only stone walls on each side of the road. About half way we came to St.Antonio Gardens into which we strolled, oranges and vines and fish ponds seemed it’s chief attraction. On reaching Citta Vecchia most of our party visited the Catacombs, with which they were greatly disappointed. Nor did the Romance of St. Paul having been (beached?) on this part of the Coast seem to come up to the expectation. We returned at 5.30, and did not reach the boat which took us to our ship till 6.30 but long after dark, and somewhat chilled with the keen wind that was blowing. Whilst we were absent, Coaling went on aboad the Carthage but we were greatly surprised on finding no coal dust either on deck or in our cabins, as in the case of the “Ganges.”
Ship steered out of Malta about 8 p.m.
Saturday 31st October 1885
Beautiful day. People on board rather tired from their yesterday’s going on shore at Malta. The only exertion the young ones capable of was trying whilst blind folded, to draw the eye on the figure of a pig chalked onto deck. Miss Rolleston 3rd best, but the one who succeeded was Dr James little daughter of about 12, who placed the eye in exactly proper position.
Played a game of chess with Mr Money, in the evening.
Made 133 miles.
Sunday 1st November 1885
Beautiful day, sea smooth as glass. Had service in the morning at 10.30 and again in the evening at 8 p.m. Thermometer 72.° Ada Rolleston and Miss Lloyd much incensed with their fellow cabin passenger (a Mrs Inglis) who monopolized more than her share of the cabin and objects to the scuttle being opened.
Felt very unwell and drowsy all day.
Mr Bowen of the Essex Regiment occupied on the Forecaslte making a sketch of the inside of the Ship which he sends to the “Graphic.”
Mr Clarke who played the piano for the Choir last Sunday, appears to have been displaced and Miss Lockyer reigned in his stead.
Made 288 miles.
Monday 2nd November 1885
Monday. Fine day, and calm sea, but notwithstanding a sea came through our open port hole, and drenched Grace who happened to be sitting with her back to the window at the time. Dancing on deck at 8 o’clock.
Made 290 miles
Tuesday 3rd November 1885
Arrived at “Port Said” at 6 o’clock a.m. Very sultry all day. Thermometer 78. Went on shore after lunch, at 3, by myself and remained till 6 looking at shop windows markets, purchased lemons 6d a dozen. Difficult to escape being pestered by shoe blacks, and self constituted guides. Most of the passengers went on shore a little after breakfast, others remained on board purchasing photographs and silver jewellery. I got a silver bracelet for each of 3 girls, the Miss Rolleston, Lloyd, and McCarthie.
The “Cathey” was anchored nearby, also the “Suttey” bound for Bombay. Miss Money has asked her Father to invite Newdigate to go with them to Cairo for a fortnight, afterwards to go to Australia by same other vessel which has all but been settled. The 3 Miss – for “Cairo” by themselves.
Left at 11.30 p.m.
Wednesday 4th November 1885
Very sultry day, Thermometer 80. Grace and I together with Miss Rolleston, Lloyd, McCarthie, Wilkinson and Captain (Mosely?) went to different shops to purchase cups and saucers, fans, feathers, cakes and tea pot. Afterwards walked to the Arab Town about 1 mile out of town, past the Mosque, where numbers were lying down inside saying their prayers, and one man in particular expounding the Law to his hearers; this Araby town is a miserable dirty place bounded by the sea and tents and wooden tenements built on sand, rending our walk hot dreary and uncomfortable. We returned on board at 10 o’clock in time for lunch, found that Miss Money and her father and their friend Miss Wilks as well as Newdigate and Bowen of the Essex Regiment all packed up and ready to leave the ship in the afternoon. They are going by a Russian Ship (laying near) as far as Alexandria, from whence they take the Train to Cairo. Newdigate has received a letter from a Mrs Brown who offers to exchange his cabin in the “Massilia” (expected in a fortnight) for the one he has in the “Cathay” which course completely dovetails in with his arrangements and wishes. Mr Money busy all the morning with getting his luggage on board. At 4.30 Captain Hector in the Cathay’s Launch took Mrs Wilks and Miss Money and we wished good bye to them, to their, the Russian, ship. Lady C. Scott and Lord Bertie went in the Launch with them that far. The P.O. Steamer “Tasmania” from Bombay having also Australian passengers and Mail came into Harbour about 5 and anchored near us. In the evening the Captain of the “Cathay” had a large dance in board hiring the band of H.M.S. “Invincible” to play for them. Great offence has been given to most of the passengers in the Carthage: a party from this vessel went to lunch on board H.M.S. “Dolphin” and some of the Officers from it and the “Invincible” and “Coquette” now in port, dined on board with Goldfinch and A.D.C., expecting that there had been a general invitation from the “Cathay” to the passengers of the “Carthage” and that these young officers would accompany the Ladies from the Carthage but it was only discovered a little after dinner, that there was no general invitation but only to the Captain, who had permission to bring 3 or 4 young Ladies with him. He asked Miss Merewether and Miss Jackson and Miss Lockyer but he only prevailed on the latter to accompany him. As a sort of sop, the Captain agreed to let the passengers of the “Carthage” have a sort of impromptu dance on the deck, which the naval officers remained, notwithstanding the Naval Band on board the “Cathay” almost drowned the music of the piano on board the “Carthage.” Captain Mosely is furious at the conduct of Captain Hector, as well as the conduct of those of the “Cathay” who may be responsible for this rudeness.
I wrote to my cousin Captain Downman. Grace to Mrs Storm, and gave the two letters to the Steward to post with 6d for postage.
Two of the Naval officers were named Galloway of the “Invincible” and Glennie of the ..
Thursday 5th November 1885
Went on shore at Port Said after breakfast, purchased teapot, photographs for Mrs Godlfinch, returned to lunch on board ship, at 1 o’clock. All looking forward to arrival of the “Tanjore” with the Carringtons on board, cannot understand the delay or cause of her non-arrival. Went again at 4.30 o’clock to “Port Said,” with Miss Rolleston, Miss Lloyd, Miss McCarthie, who kept shopping to a great extend. H.M.S. “Invincible” left Port Said for England, but previously to leaving Captain Mosely and Lord Bertie went on board to look at her and her Torpedo Cabins. In the evening at 8 o’clock Goldfinch and Captain Mosely and I went again on shore, first of all to the Gambline Tables, where “Rouge et Noir” was being well patronized by a large number of people, busily engaged staking their money on the different colours. The room crowded and a girl there was trying her luck. At 9 in the same building and adjoining the gaming tables, a concert was given in a large Coffee room where every nationality seemed represented, seated round little tables, smoking and drinking mostly Lager beer. The performance commenced by singers coming forward singly and singing what appeared to be comic songs in French. Several sang very well, and the orchestra was excellent, about 20 performers, 3 or 4 girls, Germans or Austrian, playing flute, violin etc. I understand that they, the whole band, get only £2 a week. The Concert is quite a secondary thing, only gut up to attract visitors in the hope of decoying them to the Gaming Tables, the proprietors of which I hear make £4000 a year clear profit. We did not get away till 12 o’clock, the only objectionable thing we saw on coming out was a drunken English sailor carried off bodily by English men of War men to prevent his being taken into custody by Egyptian Police, but all the other nationalities were looking on with disgust, repeatedly the words “Anglais Anglais,” in rather a contemptuous tone.
Lord and Lady Canning and ensuite arrived on board about 10 p.m.
On coming out of Concert Room or theatre Dr Atherton was just behind me and touched me on the shoulder to make me aware of his presence.
Friday 6th November 1885
Left “Port Said” and entered the Suez Canal at 6 o’clok a.m. Not os warm as I anticipated, the Thermometer in my cabin at 8, not more than 80, and afterwards, owing to a cool breeze blowing, only 75. In front of us, the “Carthage” are the P.& O. Steamer “Cathay” and “Sutley” (Suttee?), but within sight. Weather fine. At dark we came to our moorings in the Canal, for the night. And great preparations were made by the Captain to give a full dress Ball, in honor I presume, of Lord Carrington being on board. Lord Carrington opened the Ball with Lady C. Scott. Whilst the Chief Officer, Mr Brown and the Doctor, Wood, with Miss Harbord (Lord Carrington’s sister).I understand a good champagne supper was given but neither Grace nor I went to it. There is evidently “a great run” on Lord Carrington by some of the passengers, both men and women, and I should imagine he will soon be bored with their attentions. “The Committee of the Sports and Amusements” met this afternoon at 3.30, to elect a President in the room of Mr Money who left at “Port Said,” and in his place Lord Carrington was chosen after being interviewed by Dr Atherton on the subject, as to his willingness to accept the office. He only returned thanks for the honor which, he said, was done him.
Thornton, son of old George Thornton, arrived last night in the “Tanjore,” also his relatives, the Tuckers. A (finish? Fresh?) and senior A.D.C., Captain Cascoiyne accompanied Lord Carrington from (Brindisi?), he is a much older man than the other 3 and was formerly in the “Blues” and appears intelligent.
Saturday 7th November 1885
Arrived at Suez, about 10.30 a.m. and left shortly after. Sent letters to Storm, Mrs Storm, Mrs Barton, Mrs Cruickshank, and received one from Mrs Munay, and Mrs James Manning. The 3 Ladies, who went from the ship to Cairo and the Pyramids reached, in due time, Suez, and were a whole day there yesterday waiting for the “Carthage,” coming on board today. Much pleased with the excursion, and the accommodation they got at the Hotel at “Cairo.”
Passed the “Roma” with emigrants for Queensland, just as we got out of the Canal, leaving the “Cathay,” and “Sutley” behind us at “Suez.”
Lord Carrington busy buying scarfs on deck from the traders who came on board from Suez. Thermometer 82° and towards night heat unbearable, the ports having to be closed for fear of a sea washing in.
Young D sticks to the Carringtons hourly, probably pushing himself on them, but he has the most consummate impudence of any man on board, and I fear some when I land that I shall find he is one of the Commissioners that so often and so suddenly spring up into a (swish?) existence, neither they nor their - ever contemplated. He is very (thick?) owing to circumstances with the A.D.C.
In the evening Mrs Armstrong and Mrs Golden played whist with Mr Jones and myself, whilst in the Music Saloon members of the choir were practicing for tomorrow. Lord and Lady Carrington and Miss (Edith?) Harbord were singing there too.
Had hot mutton chop for lunch
Sunday 8th November 1885 (light pencil, difficult to read)
Very warm all night and at 8 a.m. Thermometer 85° in the cabin. Had (Sir Charles) Ball at 7. Prayers read by Captain at 10.30. Saw -- --- going the same way in the (Canal?)
Prayers in the evening after dinner ready by Captain. The choir was joined by Lady Carrington and her sister both times. Just before going to bed had a conversation with Lord Carrington who informed me he had a letter (about ?) from General Higginson, who married Mrs (Mannings?) cousin. He also informed me he had sent 7 horses, 6 carriage horses) out to Sydney, one of which had died on the passage. He speaks much in praise of Cooks tourist tickets, by which he prepared his journey, Paris, the continent, Brindisi both economically and comfortably.
Monday 9th November 1885
Very warm 88° in my cabin, over 90° in Goldfinch’s, on Starboard side. Notwithstanding games of kinds were carried on, races etc in which Miss Harbord took part. In the evening dancing, Miss Harbord being taught some new waltz step by the A.D.C. Leigh, and afterwards by Bruce, the soft goods merchant of Melbourne. Mrs Bruce, fat, fair and 40, seated with Lady Carrington on deck, where the dancing was going on, up to 10.30. Miss Lloyd complaining of her took which Dr Wood says must be taken out, under Chloroform, which I have advised her against. Surprised that the health of the Prince of Wales, this being his birthday, was not drunk on board, after dinner. Grace’s eye only lost its dark colour after today.
Tuesday 10th November 1885
Very warm, Thermometer in my cabin 88° at 9 o’clock in the morning, but which time we found that the engines suddenly stopped and we were at a stand still, caused it was said, by the machinery becoming heated, and the piston roll immoveable. About half an hour after, the “Cathay” was sighted and she, after some communication, went on her way towards Aden. Shortly after the “Suttey” hove in sight, aligned her course, and came to us, remaining a short distance away for several hours. Our Captain went on board, we presume to have a consultation as to our unfortunate position, having to all intents “broken down,” and not knowing when or how soon repairs can be effected. Just at this time a shark was seen “following” on our lea, a bait was thrown out on starboard side, which, after repeated nibbles, he took, and was after great struggling brought on board, the large hook perfectly straightened and bent by his efforts to get away. The Arabs on board, with revolting inhumanity, cut off his tail and fins, whilst still alive, which was painful to witness and a barbarity I was (sprched?) involuntarily to see. They eat these parts of the animal, I understand. Another shark seen, but he was too wary to be caught. Miss Merewether feeling faint and unwell, unable to come lunch, and Lady Charles Scott also absent from table, at breakfast, lunch and dinner. I had salt water bath this morning, water quite warm.
Thornton, (pray?) at the adjoining table copying out parts he has to act in the play “Advise Gratis.” He is also to take the Captain’s part in “Pinafore.”
Captain Hector looks rather doleful at the unexpected delay, caused by the break down of the “Carthage’s” engines, he hoped to have made a quick passage to Sydney,, but that is now impossible. The engineers all busy on cutting away the steel bands used in casing the Piston rod, and it was nearly 5 o’clock in the evening before the machinery was again in working order and the screw commenced moving. The “Sutley” remained alongside of us all the time of our detention, and kept with us after we had started, in case I suppose, of our again breaking down. During the afternoon the Queensland Steamer “Roma” with emigrants overtook us, and remained in company with us till we started, but we soon left her behind, as the “Carthage” is a much quicker (sailor?).
The heat in our cabin this night was something terrific, the ports had to be closed, and we were literally stewed the whole night. The sea walls registering 88, as did the air which we breathed. Sleep was there impossible. Made the acquaintance of Miss Harbord
Ran 233 mile only.
Wednesday 11th November 1885
Ran only 211 miles.
Passed 12 Opostles, about 12 a.m. Passed “Jebel Zukur” at 5 p.m.
Saw several ships ashore, wrecked. The “Sutley” ahead of us this morning, 3 other steamers passed us, during the day homeward bound.
Cool wind blowing all day, and night, and numbers of passengers again sea-sick, particularly Miss Greenfell, who had to be carried from cabin on to deck. I felt, too, very headachy and uncomfortable, so much so that I was obliged to put on my “Holman’s Liver Pads,” which I had put aside some 4 or 5 days ago, on account of the heat of the weather. The 3 girls Add, Rolleston, had a tea party consisting of Dr Wood and 5th Officer, Mr Taylor, Mrs Jackson the 4 officer could not come. Miss Merewether drank tea with us. Made the acquaintance of Lady Carrington, who appears, with her sister Miss Harbord, both a pretty and agreeable woman, most easy in manner, and inclined to be more sociable with all the passengers. Lord Carrington is himself especially so, and judging from present observation, he is certain to be one of the most popular Governors, Australia, or rather, New South Wales, ever had. They seem both devoted to their 3 children on board.
We hope to be out of the Red Sea, and to pass “Perin(?)” at midnight, when the weather it is said will be cooler. Had salt water bath at 8, very warm the water.
Thursday 12th November 1885
Just 3 weeks since we left the Docks.
But appearing like months. Ran, up to 12, only 279 miles, Thermometer 82
Aden visible on our starboard, about 8 o’clock, -- some miles distant however, the “Sutley” in sight, making the that Port. We passed by. Notwithstanding coal till we get to Colombo. Felt very unwell all day, owing, I suppose, to the intense heat of our cabin, and sleepless nights.
Friday 13th November 1885
Fine day, but very warm. Passengers rehearsing their parts in the play about to be acted “Advice Gratis.” Dancing in the evening, Miss Lockyer much admired on board. The Governor dancing a polka with her. Had a talk with him about Colonial matters generally. Stayed up on deck till after 11p.m, in order that any passengers might induced others to go to bed and give up their flirtation with ( - - - - ) Several Ladies slept in music saloon, others on deck, Mrs Bruce, Miss Gillies(?) etc. Went on Forecastle with Miss Merewether in afternoon, thousands of Flying Fish on the bow. Lent Lady Carrington book on Ceylon and Miss Harbord the “Parramatta Observer,” the newspaper published on board that vessel on her last trip from Sydney in which the Cruikshanks came. Mr Watson taking a group of the passengers, Mr Dancy pacing himself in the most conspicuous part.
Made 300 miles today. Thermometer 83.°
Saturday 14th November 1885
Heavy squall of rain at breakfast time. Rain coming through skylight on our heads, and chairs. We were now of Socrota, and under this influence of the Monsoon. Heavy clap of thunder, with lightning. Miss McCarthie not well, unable to come to breakfast. Mrs Atherton also indisposed. Mr Chapman from whom I yesterday burrowed the Parramatta Observer lend to Miss Harbord, has again asked me to return it to him. I told him I had not seen her today, he replied “she is an sick now, reading has that book,” will you ask her for it, I said “I will borrow another for you.” He said “No, I want my own.” He is a very curmudgeonly sort of fellow and I wish I had not borrowed the book form him. The piano at 9.30 is every morning seized upon by every strummer and becomes a perfect nuisance. The first number of the ”Carthaginian” with only different passengers on board, came out today, consisting of a description of the voyage as far as “Port Said.” A letter signed “Muriel” evidently written by a Lady, pretty, a description of the amusements, concerts etc. The best article written by Captain Gascoigne A.D.C. on a Lion Hunt in which he partook, one night, whilst in Abyssinia.
Grace and I drank tea with the Captain, the only other person, Mrs Murray, though Lady C. Scott was expected but did not come.
Very sultry weather, the Ladies sleeping in Music Saloon, the gentlemen in Dining Room on the tables.
Went to bed at 11 p.m., to look after our charges
Ran 296 miles. Thermometer 83.°
Sunday 15th November 1885
A very sultry night was passed, the place our cabin and those adjoining us, is called “Suffocating Alley” and is truthfully descriptive.
I think I may as well commence giving descriptions of some of our fellow voyagers, perhaps I had better begin with the most loquacious one on board, he is a shrewd man of the World, impresses some people with his small talk, and speaks in so authoritative a tone on every subject, that 9 out of 10 believe him to be what he tries to act up to, i.e. a clever well read, highly educated man, whereas it is evident his knowledge is of the most superficial kind, his ideas borrowed, and instead of being solid wood, is merely veneer, he is good natures apparently but that is only a means to an end. The hope of gaining something is really the actuating spirit within him. I came on board somewhat prejudiced against him from his alleged cruel treatment of one who loved him not too wisely but too well, and whose prospects in life were blasted by him, but notwithstanding this sacrifice was left to die in a foreign land, homeless, friendless, and destitute of every comfort or necessary of life, the artful countenance of this man, lays open to the world or rather to those who study mankind the painted sepulcher within which is inclosed the false heart that beats therein! Variety is his only pattern, to be thought what he evidently is not his ambition! Poet, Write, Sportsman, Reader, Reciter, conniseur, of wine, pictures, horses, everything is the role he constantly poses in! The labor he goes through, to accomplish his schemes is certainly great, though proposing that his fame will be as short lived as the voyage itself. I hope I have not been false witness against this personage, I have not said anything out of malice, but merely that hereafter I may contrast my present views with any I may then hold, to see if my knowledge of human nature has been reliable.
Ran 297 miles. Thermometer 82.°
Monday 16th November 1885
Ran 288 miles. Thermometer 85° in cabin. Beautiful day. Had no sleep last night owing to heat of weather, and Port hole being closed. No appetite, took no breakfast, nor lunch. Introduced Lord and Lady Carrington to Grace. In the evening Grace and I were kept up till nearly 11 waiting for the girls to get to bed. We walked passed them two or three times, and at last spoke to them without any effect however, Miss MacMurtrie seems to keep aloof from them. People are making assertions about their extraordinary conduct.
I had a game of Whist in the evening with Goldfinch and Murray. I having Robertson the Barrister as my partner. Captain Mosely very kindly brought me lunch on deck but I was unable to (eat?) it.
Tuesday 17th November 1885
Pleasant day, smooth sea, cool wind. Ports opened which enabled us once more to breathe. Grace spoke this afternoon to the Mrs Ada’s about coming down from deck at 10 o’clock in the evening instead of keeping up till sometimes past 11, and being seated with Dr Wood at the end of the ship on the darkest part. They have again asked Dr Wood to afternoon tea and also Miss Grenfell who seems to have been given up by the Athertons and Captain Terry. Neither Grace nor I would therefore go to tea lest it might give the appearance of countenancing the proceeding.
In the evening a Concert given in the Saloon. Miss Harbord played the accompaniment for Miss Paterson who sang. Mrs Clarke played piano and Mrs Roberts the Violin, and Miss Lockyer sang to it. Mr Clarke sang, Miss Williams also.
The Captain gave a broad hint to Ada Rolleston and A Lloyd on their way to tea at 11, calling them as they passed him “The late young Ladies.”
Passed (Minkoz?) at midnight.
Ran 304 miles. Thermometer 83.°
Wednesday 18th November 1885
Ran 319 miles. Thermometer 85
The heat last night again unbearable. Mrs Atherton very unwell.
The Captain asked Ada Rolleston and A Lloyd to afternoon tea in his cabin. Dr Wood again seated on deck with Ada Rolleston and Adel Lloyd, at nearly 11 o’clock, after all the other Ladies had gone down, his persistence, notwithstanding my constant hints, is remarkable.
Had a long talk on deck, before going to bed, with Lady Carrington. I afterwards with Mrs Armstrong about Mrs (Bonciault?) Dolly Clarke.
Thursday 19th November 1885
At 8 o’clock made “Colombo,” and were very soon after being anchored, surrounded by boats of all descriptions filled with “Cingalesse,’ with all kinds of merchandise for sale. The Governor, Lord Carrington, and suite went very soon on shore having become guests of Sir A. Gordon, the Governor of Ceylon. Grace and myself with Ada Rolleston, Miss Lloyd and McCarthie went to the Oriental Hotel where I had secured rooms. Had lunch at 1,and then proposed driving out to Mt Lavinia, but the girls objected, preferring they said, to go shopping on the town. Shortly after, however, Ada Rolleston came to say she was going to take a drive with Mr and Mrs Holland and that Dr Wood, the ship’s Doctor was to go with her. He has made himself so conspicuous of late with her that I protested against such a proceeding and objected to him being invited to dinner at our table making the excuse that Captain Moseley was coming. Had dinner at 7.30, a large assembly, General Richardson and his family from Sydney for the last 12 days staying at the Hotel. After dinner tables removed, and a dance took place, passengers fromm all the P.&O. Ships in the Harbour taking part. Also some of the Officers of the 102nd Regiment stationed here. Made the acquaintance of Captain Mills of that Regiment who is married to Mrs Baker’s (Eliza Martin’s) daughter. She, I find, only left Colombo for Neurallia yesterday morning and if the “Carthage” had not broken down in Red Sea I should have been in time to see her. Miss Jackson stayed on shore with the agents of Ship, a Captain Bayley who lost the “Colombo.” After dinner Miss Merewether went with me for a drive by moonlight round the town, she very much pleased at the sight of the Fireflys, one of which the guide caught for her.
Friday 20th November 1885
Heavy tropical rain fell very early which awoke me. Had breakfast at 9.30, and then went out with Grace to buy biscuits, and got the Cingalese guide to go to the market for a large bunch of bananas as good as those of Fiji, for which I gave him only 1 Rupee. Purchased also, on the way, from one of the Cingalese jewelers, Gomby by name, an unset Sapphire, he charged at first £3, for it, then came down to £2.10, then to £1 and ultimately he allowed me to take it for 10/-.
Posted the following letters, 5d each, to Mrs Storm, from Grace, with a few lines to Storm from myself, 1 to Lambert, Coventry St; 1 to my cousin Mrs Graham and a few lines to Susie; 1 to Miss G Marsh-Caldwell, 1 from Grace to Mrs Murray; 1 to Miss Wise.
Saw General Richardson after breakfast, he sails by the S.S. “Sutley” this evening for Calcutta with his wife, daughter and Miss Dixon on 3 months leave of absence. Miss McCarthie went for a short drive about Colombo with a Mr Guy, introduced to her by that cad Darchy she says, and as she did not come back as soon as we were ready we were somewhat delayed, and had to get 2 carriages to take us to the wharf, where we got in to a boat and were rowed to the Carthage, but were unable to get there before it began to pour heavily with rain. We found several new passengers who had come from India, one a young officer, who is going to Sydney on 5 months leave, a Captain Mercer. Also an ex Army Surgeon,, who was only lately wrecked in the P.& O. Steamer “Indus” near Colombo, and has lost every bitof luggage and property he had with him. He is going to Sydney to practice his profession. His name is Dr Fitzgerald. Two of the Wesleyan Clergymen left the Carthage at Colombo, Brown and Robinson. The “Carthage” did not steam out of Colombo till 1 o’clock. Fresh breeze, and squalls of rain occasionally. Our Port holes on port side open all the afternoon and night, fortunately for us.
2 Whist parties going on at 8 o’clock, Goldfinch and Dr Fitzgerald, with Paterson and Gordon at one table, at the other Dr Atherton and Thornton against young and Mrs McMurtrie.
This evening as Miss Wilkinson passed the young Indian Officer and myself whilst we were in conversation together, he seemed very much struck with her appearance, expressed himself so, asked what her name was, and remarked immediately after “What a bevy of beauty appears to be on this Ship!”
Mr Leight is constantly with Miss – Paterson – Terry with Miss Murray and Mr Darchy with Miss Gillies who is going to New Zealand. She is deserving of a better husband, should he be contemplating marriage. Made the acquaintance of a Mrs Sheraton, who with her husband, is going to Perth to live. She has never been in Australia, is nice looking, but a wretched sailor and just married. At nearly 11 o’clock after all the Ladies had left the deck, in the darkest part of the ship saw Dr Wood again seated with Miss Lloyd and Ada Rolleston. Asked Miss MaCarthei if she could not give them a hint, as possibly remarks may be made about their so constantly sitting together with him and staying up so late. She said she never did so, and allowed me to infer she too disapproved of the course and promised her aid in the matter, so far as giving a hint.
Saturday 21st November 1885
Beautiful day, breeze cool. In afternoon we met the P.& O. Steamer “Shannon” coming from Australia, exchanged signals. Captain Hector wished to get close enough to speak, but immediately he tried, the “Shannon” veered off and would not second his efforts.
The “Alphabetical Rhymes” were read on deck, by Captain Mosely and the Judges appointed to award the prizes were:-
And Captain Jarrard’s lines were pronounced the best, and to him the prize fell. Ada Rolleston came next I believe.
In the evening “Neptune” came or was supposed to come on board and the old legend, which I thought had fallen into disuse long ago, was re-enacted. Mr Clarke was the victim, offer to be shaved by the sailors. Had a very bad headache after dinner, and lay on a chair on deck, for some hours, until a heavy squall of rain drove me down at 9.30. Saw as usual seated together the Doctor and Ada Rolleston and A Lloyd, to whom I spoke, telling them it was time to go to bed. Ada Lloyd as usual replied “That it was not yet 10.”
Sat with Dr and Mrs Atherton on deck for a time, he loud in his abuses of Dr Wood in not seeing after the comfort of his wife in getting her a bed in the Saloon, Dr Wood saying “He had no official information of her being ill.” Dr Atherton spoke also of his conduct towards Miss Grenfell, whilst recovering from hysterics, on his knees, by her side, feeling her pulse continually, and speaking in such a sickly sentimental manner, as to make her tell him to have done with such a “sentimental nonsense,” hoping that he did not treat all his patients to similar doses. There is evidently some strong feeling of dislike in the part of the Athertons towards him (Dr Wood) which makes me fancy his conversation with “our girls” must be something akin to what Mrs Atherton heard. We invited the tow new passengers, Captain Webster and Dr Fitzgerald to afternoon tea, and to our surprise and annoyance Dr Wood, on the invitation of Ada Rolleston, and Lloyd, came too, instead of mixing himself up with the general company, he took his place next and accosted(?) himself to Ada Rolleston, which makes me think she is being befooled by him, and will necessitate my speaking to her, on the subject, before matters assume too serious an aspect.
Dr Fitzgerald, who was a passenger on board the “Indus” when wrecked, near Trincomalee, the other day, says that the Captain seemed completely off his head, that he would not, at the repeated suggestion of his passengers, give signals of distress to those on shore, which would have brought numerous boats manned by natives who could easily have taken off part of the cargo as well as the passengers luggage, which was all lost. Fitzgerald and some of the few passengers on board the Indus have made a declaration to this effect and also that the Captain was 20 miles out of his course, and steering by a very old chart. That the weather was perfectly fine and the sea smooth, and not the slightest excuses for the ship going ashore, that they have also entered their protests against their, (the passenger’s) evidence not having been taken before the Commissioner of Wrecks at Colombo.
Before the passengers left the vessel, upwards of 300 bales of Wheat had been thrown overboard to lighten the vessel, but at that time it was too late to have any effect, on getting her off the rocks. The 2nd Number of the “Carthaginian” newspaper came out this afternoon.
Ran 300 miles. Thermometer 81.°
Sunday 22nd November 1885
Raining off and on all day and the weather cloudy and windy and also sultry. At 10.30 prayers read by Captain Hector.
After breakfast I called Ada Rolleston into my cabin, and begged her as a favor to give up talking so much, and at such late times as 11 o’clock at night, on deck, with Dr Wood, and after all the Ladies had gone down to their beds and the lights put out: that I was afraid people on board would make comments and that if her father and mother heard it they would be much annoyed. She in reply stated that Ada Lloyd and herself were always together, and that it was not very probable that any flirtation could go on between three people, that he, Dr Wood, was the only person she cared to make a friend of on board, that he was very gentlemany, and his conversation always interesting and which the whole ships company might hear, and that she could not, and would not give up his society, but that if I wished it, she would move down to the Saloon at 10 o’clock. I told her as to there being always 3 together, Miss Lloyd making the 3, that it meant nothing, that people would look upon this arrangement merely as a (flinst, Hinse? Ruse) to carry out their tactics of having Dr Wood to talk to. Previously to speaking to Ada Rolleston I consulted Goldfinch about my going straight to Dr Wood, and telling him I could not be permit him to make our young Lady friends so evo—ous to his attention, as the people around would think, but all I said fell dead upon her ears, which makes me fear that Ada’s liking for the man is more serious than it ought to be, particularly as she seems to wish me to think of certain allusions, that her parents know of her affections being (greatly?) pre-engaged.
Great dispute took place late this evening between Mr Bruce and Mr Robertson, which culminated in great abuse of each other. Mr Bruce made his appearance at 10.30 before Mrs Atheron and Miss Grenfell in his pajamas. Mrs Atherton left, Dr Atherton told the reason to Mr Robertson who said he would throw a glass of water over him for his insolence, he missed him and the water went over Miss Grenfell. Mr Bruce rushed in deep vowing vengeance on the person who did it, he described the person as being of the same build as Thornton and wearing the same dress. Mr Robertson then came forward and said he threw it and would take the consequences, the wrangling went on till after 12 considerably.
No observation supposed that the run 309 miles Thermometer 81.°
Monday 23rd November 1885
Ran 354 miles. Thermometer 81.°
Best run we have made yet, and the weather much cooler. Had a talk with Lord Carrington as to his being expected to land in Sydney and that great ovations waited him, that yachts and steamers would dot the harbour and will meet and accompany the “Carthage” from the Heads to Circular Quay, and that preparations on shore will be made to receive him, Ministers in State Uniforms, Police, and Mounted Light Horse, to act as Guard of Honor from wharf to Government House. And I mentioned this in consequence of haring the night before from a young man on board, that Lord Carrington was somewhat undetermined whether he would not land in Melbourne and go overland by Railway to Sydney.
The dispute which took place between the “Soft goods man” Mr Bruce, and the Barrister, Mr Robertson, was settled between them by mutual apologies to each other.
Dancing on Quarter deck till 10, waiting up with Sir Roger de Coverly and singing “God save the Queen.” Lord Carrington played a Highland Schottiche, very well and Mr Darchy’s voice was heard proposing 3 cheers for Lord Carrington. Made the acquaintance of a new passenger who came on board at Colombo, a Mrs Benton, a pretty, charming little woman, with bright eyes whose husband has gone to (Jonakin?) with his Indian Regiment, of which he is Lieutenant and Adjutant. She is going to stay in Melbourne with her brother, a Mr Marshall, her grandfather was Potter McQueen, who once held considerable property in New South Wales, particularly on the Hunter. The first mare I purchased in New South Wales in 1840 was bred by the said Potter McQueen and had his brand.
The 2 girls came down from the deck at 10 this evening. Dr Wood whilst walking or seated with them was overhead evidently talking at Grace saying “ We had never heard of any rule of Ladies leaving the deck or he light being put out at 10, that the lights were not then out.” Etc etc.
Tuesday 24th November 1885
No observation. Supposed to have made a run 304 miles.
In “South East Trades,” Thermometer 78.
All the girls on board getting their boxes out, and getting suitable dresses for the Fancy Ball on Thursday, to which all “are requested to come in character,” marked on their cards.
Reading the auto biography of Henry Taylor, lent me by Captain Gascoigne, who it appears had much to do in the Colonial Office in about 1830 with writing despatches and reports touching the Manumission of apprenticeships and the slaves in the British West Indies and the compensation to the owners of 20 million pounds.
Raining of and on all day. Decks very wet, ditto our chairs. Unable to get anything suitable for lunch, “chicken” broth, nothing but warm greasy water which I was obliged to send away. Concert in the evening, Frauline Lepper playing the overture to “Emani.” Then a duet between Lady Carrington and Miss Lockyer, accompanied by Mr Clarke, Mr Tucker, Mr Woodriffe, Mr Bradbury, Miss Jebb, Miss Munay, also, sang different songs. Tucker has a good tenor voice. Captain Mosely recited Thackeray’s Irish piece, “By the Shannon Shore” and then as an encore a touching story laid at time of the American War between Northerners and Southerners and was much appreciated. One Lady asked if he was not an “Irishman.” Miss Harbord has taken up being much with Miss Lockyer and the 2 young Miss Athertons and Miss Burnes. There is no getting near her. During the concert, held in Music Saloon there was a curious circumstance to see the Governor, seated on the floor like a tailor and all the young men around, Darchy Therry, A.D.C. – stand in front of him, and not ( helping?) him or offering to bring him a chair!
I went on deck and sat there till 11, a stiff breeze blowing, and a beautiful moonlight. The Captain and Lord Carrington talking together for more then an hour, when Mr Bruce joined them, and apparently made them separate and go away.
The 2 girls left the deck and just in time and came to – at 10 o’clock.
All the ports and scuttles closed, at least on our part, the -- of the ship, on Port side. Made the acquaintance of.
Wednesday 25th November 1885
Made 294 miles today. Thermometer 79. Lat 13.56 South, Longitude 95.12 East.
Lovely day, cool breeze blowing. Reading “Occult Man” by Sinnett, lent me by Dr Fitzgerald. Too imaginative and abstract a book to read on board ship.
Grace complaining of pains in her gums, that added to her not taking any lunch, as there was nothing on the table procreative of appetite, made her fell father unwell.
Passed in the night the “Cocos” or Keeling Island in he Indian Ocean, composed of large coral reefs, and coconut trees growing there. Spoke to Lady Carrington and showed her and Miss Harbord the sapphires I bought in “Colombo.”
At 8.30 Private Theatricals: the 1st piece, “Advice Gratis” in which the following cast of characters,
Mr Eventide G.W. Thornton
Edmond (his son) R. S. Rede
Mr Odbody Mrs E.L. Langton
Grimes (servant) H. Jebb
Mrs Eventide Miss Tucker
Ellen (ward of Mr Odbody) Miss Armstrong
Mrs Langton, as Mr Odbody, was inimitable, her make up complete; and the comic look she imparted to he faces, throughout the piece, stamped her as not only a clever, but a very experienced actress, that would have gained applause on any stage she appeared.
Miss Armstrong was the perfectly unsophisticated girl”, all throughout. And Mrs Eventide, Miss Tucker, did her part well, whilst Thornton as her old husband imparted much fun into his part. The others too were also well up in the dialogue and the whole piece went off without a hitch, and afforded an hours fun to a delighted audience and all the passengers must feel greatly indebted to the actors for having appeared before them with so little preparation under great difficulties.
The 2nd piece, though not so amusing as the first, called “No.1 Round the Corner,” also afforded much hilarity and was acted by Mr G.W. Sievers as “Flipper” Mr A.H. Watson as “Nibbles,” both supposed fellow lodgers at a Mrs (Icquamond?), who did not, however, appear on the stage. The whole performance was over by 10, when “God Save the Queen,” was sung and 3 cheers for the actors. Somebody after called for 3 cheers for Dr Atherton but the invitation met with no response whatever.
Lord and Lady Carrington and Miss Harbord attended, and on either side of him were seated Dr and Mrs James!
The 3 girls remained in Saloon after the play was over till they went to bed, so that I am in hopes my advice to Ada Rolleston on Sunday, has had a beneficial effect.
Thursday 26th November 1885
Ran 295 miles. Thermometer 78.
Lovely day, almost cold on deck though in our cabins still very close, the Ports being closed.
In the afternoon Dr Wodd again made his appearance at the tea table, invited by the girls I suppose, which made me go for Captain Mosely to act as a counterpoise.
Lady Carrington and Miss Harbord drinking tea with “Soft Goods” wife, Mrs Bruce.
At 8 the Fancy Ball which has been so much thought of the last week, took place on deck, part of which had been covered in with flags etc. Lord Carrington in Windsor Uniform with his Star or order of K.C.M.S. Lady Carrington in a sort of fancy costume, with hair powdered. Miss Harbord in a dress I did not like. Lady C. Scott with only her hair a little powdered, and a patch on her face looked very well.
The Miss Murrays looked nice too as one with her back hair let loose over her shoulders, reaching below her knees, was much admired.
Miss Tucker went as a Sister of Mercy and looked it, her brother well made up as a Doctor, wearing the glasses, lent him by , “a Blue ribbon Army man” and which strange to say he afterwards broke when drinking Brandy and water!
Mr Lash (Lark?) admirably dressed as a Horse Marine after the French idea.
Miss Jebb as Britannia, her sister as Doely Verden.
Miss Wilkinson as “The Royal Mail.”
Miss Jackson as “Nancy Lee.”
Miss Lockyer in fancy sailors costume.
Miss Rolleston as “Rouge et Noir”
Miss Lloyd as a “Dutch Girl”
Miss McCarthie as a “Swiss Peasant”
Mrs Bruce as “Baker cup”
Miss Gillies as
Miss Merewether as an Ayah, with her face stained brown, but greatly disfigured I thought.
Miss Armstrong as a “Red Cross” nurse
Mrs Murray in Night
Mrs James with hair powdered and turned up.
Mr Brown, Chief Officer, as a Turk, best dress
Dr FitzGerald as a sailor
Captain Meras as a “Lascar”
Captain Garrard (Palmer?) as an Arab
Goldfinch as an Arab
Thornton in Captain Garrards Naval Uniform
Mr Watson as a Spectre.
Mr McMurtrie as a Scotch Highlander
Miss Munro (Munio?) as a “housemaid”
Mr Darchy as a “Baker”
Miss King as “Ondine”
Captain Mosely as Editor in a (Sinty?) Newspaper
Mr Rede as a Port Said Arab
Mr - as Neptune
Mr Barnes (Barnis?) “Nepturnes” wife
Mr Austin as an Egyptian woman
Miss Paterson in peasant’s dress
Mr Bruce in “Yacht Club” coat
Mr Clarke as Fisherman
Mrs Chester in fancy costume which became her well.
Mrs Langdon in dark dress
Her son in Windsor Uniform
Lord Bertie’s A.D.C in A.D.C. coat
Captain Therry A.D.C. in Military Shell Jacket
Mr Lee A.D.C. as a sailor
Captain Gascoigne A.D.C. ordinary costume
Mr Sievers with hair powdered and knee breeches was well disguised.
Mr Clarke in Windsor Uniform.
Miss Grenfell in Evening costume, French
Miss Atherton junior “Flower Girl”
Dr Wood “Wandering Minstrel”
Miss Pratt in plaid dress, Gordon Highlaner, query?
Mrs Sheraton Mary Roper.
Just 4 weeks since we left England.
Friday 27th November 1885
Made 288 miles. Thermometer 72°
Very unwell all day with rheumatic pains in head, back and joints. I must have caught cold on deck last night, whilst attending the Fancy Ball and wearing my Evening Suit. Went very little on deck in consequence, and lay down in my cabin the greater portion of the day. Grace drank tea with the Bruces. There was dancing on deck after dinner notwithstanding the coolness of the night.
Saturday 28th November 1885
Made 297 miles, Thermometer 73.
A most lovely day, a moderately warm sun, with cool breeze. Sat on deck till lunch time, talking to Miss Wilkinson and Miss McCarthie. After lunch sat with Mrs Gordon and her sister Mrs McMurtrie, two Scotch ladies who keep very much to themselves and who are pleasing, agreeable young women.
Se—ed is by paid Captain Therry 10/- towards the production of the Board ship newspaper “The Carthaginian.” Lord Carrington put his name down for 10 copies. I took the opportunity of mentioning to him, at Mrs King’s request, that she had a letter of introduction to him, and wished to know what day would be agreeable to him to receive it whereupon he asked where she was, whether on deck, and in telling him that she was, he proposed going with me to be introduced, which I effected and left them talking together.
Miss Merewether with others sent with the Captain on a tour of inspection of the Ship, and afterwards drank tea with us.
Ada McMurtrie apparently put out at something, by conjecture the absence of Dr Wood from the table. I showed him by my manner I was not pleased, and he has I presume taken the hint, and not come again.
In afternoon, the verses on the taking the shark were judged by a jury and the prize was awarded to Mr Sievers.
Miss Harbord and the younger Miss Atherton hardly ever apart. I cannot understand, owing to the disparity of years, how she makes a young and silly a girl her constant friend and companion!
In the evening at 8 o’clock two Entertainments took place, one on deck given by about 30 of the Black Stokers (Africans) who called themselves the “Early(?) Baies,” consisting of a sort of show dance, clapping of hands and murmurings of voice, to the music, I suppose I must call it, of an instrument, something like a bag pipe, and another. At first two men appeared leading a 3rd, going on hands and feet, representing a monkey with a tail fixed on and led by rope, then a sham fight between 2 in which the monkey took park. The whole must have occupied at least ¾ of an hour, and was the dullest and most meaningless exhibition of the kind I ever witnessed. After this came a “Nigger Entertainment” given by 13 of the Stewards with blackened faces: with the exception of (Silly?) Dale. I did not like the selection of songs, and as several dropped their H’s, there was great (m---y) in the performance, more especially in their commentary for instance “Why is a boy like a train, because it travels over sleepers.” And “Why is the Ship Carthage the most used of any of the Company’s ships, because it is “Carrying–tons” more than any other.” The Plate was handed around to the audience by Captain Therry and £ was obtained for the performers. One of the Stewards then sang, the one who played the Piano is a Graduate of Cambridge, though he played (be it saw?) very badly.
Sunday 29th November 1885
Captain Hector read prayers at
After morning service a collection in aid of Sailors Home £11.6.4 obtained. Dr James held the plate.
Very cool wind. Ports closed on Starboard side, ours on the Port all open, and we are now enabled to breathe and to sleep which the – was impossible.
Thermometer 72° in my cabin.
Made 325 miles today.
I hear Lord and Lady Carrington presented Miss Lockyer with a 2 diamonds and ruby ring. She has played accompaniments for them, and also led the Choir on Sundays and has been singled out by Lord Carrington to dance with occasionally. She has, since I wrote the above, just shown it to me, rather pretty. She has had a large party to tea with her just now, a sort of farewell as she leaves us at Albany in a day or two. Ada Rollesten, Lloyd and Miss McCarthie sitting up in Saloon till 11, consequence of Dr Wood with them.
Monday 30th November 1885
A cold day. Went 317 miles. Thermometer 67° already at 1 o’clock, heavy swell, ship rolling, people tumbling about. Had no lunch, Saloon Steward careless, did not hand beef steak pie to me, and when I called him asked for it, he went out to the Head Steward, and returned saying there was no more. A minute or two afterwards saw it handed round opposite me to the Captain. Called the attention of my Steward, he went over to the Captain’s Steward and brought me back word that the dish in question “belonged to Lord Carrington’s table” and so I had no lunch.
Great commotion last night, amongst the Murrays and (Murrays?) owing to a Bat having been seen between the 2 cabins, and all the Ladies taking fright outside, in their dressing gowns, and bringing Captain Terry and other young men on the scene too glad of an excuse to be (messed?) up with the Murrays and Miss Paterson and Miss Gillies. The Bat escaped and must have been in (here?) as my clothes bore marks of its teeth
At breakfast time Miss Lloyd suddenly suggested my being on the scene for the purpose of seeing where she and Ada Rolleston were at that time, to which Ada Rolleston checked her, telling her not to repeat her misgivings. Dr Wood an long time in Saloon with Ada Rolleston and Miss Lloyd before lunch.
Grace and I drank afternoon tea with Mrs Golden. Fortunately we did so, as Ada Lloyd came a little before to inform us they had invited Dr Wood and Captain Mercer but we saw there was only Dr Wood at the table but Mrs Goldfinch had been brought down to “do propriety” evidently, for she was there.
Very cold on deck at 9 o’clock p.m. At 10.15 the girls came in to Saloon as usual with Dr Wood, and Captain Mercer and remained till all the rest of the people had left; and at ¼ to 11 I saw them outside the Saloon, at foot of the Companion Stair, Dr Wood with Ada Rolleston, and at a little distance away Adah Lloyd with Mercer, and two Stewards near the Music Saloon, looking down watching them. I was on the flight above, and wise to know what was going on, went down at once, when just at the time they all separated. A tea party given to all the (gentlemen?) by Lord and Lady Carrington.
Tuesday 1st December 1885
On awakening found a sea had got into our cabin, the carpenter had not sufficiently screwed down the scuttle. Land in sight very early and ran along the Australia Coast until we entered “King Georges” Sound, when the Pilot came on board and we cast anchor at 12 o’clock noon. A most lovely day, bright sunshine and a cool crisp breeze blowing. As we were entering Port, Captain Hector invited Miss Harbord and Miss Lockyer on the Bridge, shortly after Lord and Lady Carrington were up too, this part of the ship is not open to passengers generally, in fact a brass plate on lower deck strictly prohibits any one not connected with the ship, going there.
The Pilot boat brought letters and newspapers, Grace received one from Marie from Brisbane, and I a telegram from Sydney from Wise of 28th November. Another boat from the shore brought several persons, amongst them Mr Macklin, the young man to whom Miss Lockyer is to be married, a youth apparently of about 20, still under articles to a Solicitor at Perth, and at present therefore, without a profession, a very “common place” sort of young man indeed, and not gentlemany looking! Lady Carrington gave up her sitting room near her cabin for the young lovers to have their first meeting! Had lunch at 12.30, a little before Mr Rowley Loftus (Loftie?), the Resident Magistrate at Albany came on board and went straight to the Carringtons where he remained closeted some time; I sent him in the parcel I had brought from his brother in England, but shortly, from the deck, I saw him accompany Lord and Lady Carrington down the steps into the Launch of the “Carthage” which Captain Hector has placed at their disposal to land: with them went Miss Harbord, Lord Bertie, Lady C. Scott, Captain Gascoign and Loftice. Under the circumstances Grace did not think it worth while landing, merely to see the Township which consists of a few houses on the side of a hill facing the sea. A little while after the 3 girls, Ada Rolleston, Adah Lloyd and M. McCarthie wished to go on shore, and asked Grace if they might go in the Boat with Mrs Bruce and off they went by themselves. I with a large party from the ship went half an hour later, with Goldfinch, Captain Jarrat, Captain Mercer etc and on landing at the Pier I espied Dr Wood who got out of the Launch first and hurried ahead of all, we saw him ascend the steps of the Post Office, and at same time caught sight, of the three girls making direct for the Post Office too! Eliciting the remark, at the time, from Goldfinch, “That is a regular pre-arranged plan of the Doctors.” Seeing him I did not as I intended, go to the Telegraph office first and walked up the Town, to buy a Photograph: whilst in the shop the 3 girls came there too, I told them I was only going to post letters and then retired, so Ada Rolleston and Adah Lloyd left, Marion McCarthie asked me to let her be with me as she did not like waltzing about with the others and Dr Wood in attendance. She therefore strolled about with me, returning to the Post Office where I posted 3 letters, 2 from Grace to Mrs Baker “Colombo” and then sent 2 telegrams, 1 to Wise, and 1 to Marie, postage 6d each letter. Telegrams 3/- each to Sydney. Marion McCarthie and I then continued our stroll for about half an hour, visiting a Church on the way. The flies were so troublesome that she wished to trace her steps shipwards so we returned and whilst trying lollies in a shop. The other 2 girls came in accompanied still by the conlasty(?) Dr Wood, and here we met all the Carrington party, with Loftie acting as a sort of Equerry to them. He came up to me however, asked me to go and have coffee at his home, with the Carringtons, and a – but as Marion McCarthie was with me, and as I thought he might have sent an invitation to Grace and myself before I did not go, but went with the other passengers on board. Dr Wood disappeared suddenly, as far as I could see, and id not accompany the girls on the Pier to the Steam Launch. Another party had been formed, the Captain’s party to ascend a rather high hill by the town. Miss Merewether and him and the Murray’s.
Our Steamer left “King George’s Sound at about 5 o’clock. Had tea at 4 at which Dr Wood came but in consequence, I told Grace to leave with me, which she did, for a few minutes, but on 2nd thoughts she thought on account of Ada Rolleston, she had better be present so returned by herself to the tea table. I went on deck to introduce Captain Jarrard to Loftie when he came aboard. Miss Lockyer hoped to be married today but the Clergyman is away, and will not return to Albany for a fortnight, and she has to remain at a Boarding House, having no friends here. Some say she will, in order to get over the difficulty, be married by the Registrar, however, her prospects have not commenced under happy auspices.
Several of our passengers left the Carthage at this place viz Captain Jarrat, Mrs and Mrs Sheraton, Mr Watson the amateur photographer.
About 6, Lord Carrington and his party returned to the Ship, and with them came Loftie and his little daughter, about 14, he expressed himself as being sorry I did not go up to his house and have coffee, and mentioned the regret of his wife had at not having seen Grace and myself, as both felt so much obliged at our kindness to their son Henry. His daughter mentioned thereto they had received letters from England telling them of her brother having passed a day in London with us.
I thought Miss Harbord’s manner rather cool. I addressed a few words to her on her return from the shore, which fell unheeded on her, and Grace tells me, later in the evening she met with a similar reception. We are at a loss to divine the reason, otherwise there by supposing some of her vulgar friends on board have prejudiced her, though she appears to be one who cares little for anything or anybody, but for only pleasure and amusements, and her companions, the Murray’s(?) on board are vulgar. We heard after all that Miss Lockyer is going to be married tomorrow by a Wesleyan Clergyman.
Captain Mosely asked me to be one of the Judges in awarding the prize to the best lines on the “Fancy Ball.” I told him having had to do with these matters I would rather not now, unless particularly desired and only promised (if?) Captain Gascoigne was one of the Judge. Later on he informed that both he and Lord Carrington would ask, under these circumstances I agreed.
Made 308 miles, Thermometer 67.°
Wednesday 2nd December 1885
Milly’s birthday. Very cool but beautiful day. Thermometer 67° and we have made since we left “King George’s Sound” 225 miles.
The 3 girls drank tea with Mrs Murray and Mrs Goldfinch and Miss Merewether with us.
Finished reading the autobiography of “Sir Henry (Insl--) of Bournemouth.” Did not go on deck today, having felt symptoms of (illegible).
In the evening Theatricals took place in Saloon. The stage partitioned off with the flags of the ship.
The first piece was entitled “Our Bitterest Foe.”
General Von Rosenberg, Mr Nugent Robertson
Henri de Tere - Mr Sievers
Blanche D’Ervan – Miss Grenfell
The piece is a translation of a French play evidently ass the plot describes the Prussian General in love at the same time with the same girl as the French soldier is. All, however, end happily. Miss Grenfell did her part and looked her part exceedingly well and evinced a decided talent for acting. Mr Robertson (a Barrister) was exceedingly tame, appeared not to know his part, and merely repeated the course, as a school boy would his lesson, no action and no expression and nervous besides, so bad at times he was inaudible. Mr Sievers was somewhat more sprightly, though his portrayal of the character he represented failed in my opinion, to impress the audience. During the interval of a quarter of an hour before the 2nd piece came on Mr Jebb dressed as a Methodist Parson with broad clerical band round his neck, and the tip of his nose coloured red, to represent his love of the bottle, gave a recitation, a sort of burlesque of a Sermon and chose for his lesson, “There was an old woman who lived in a shoe.” He did his part well, divided his discourse into parts, put on a whiny voice then a ranting one, and made one almost fancy that he was a reality and not a sham. However good it might be I think the turning religion into ridicule before children, who are hardly able to distinguish what is meant for satire, and what serious earnest, should be avoided more especially on board ship, when tossing about on the wide Ocean, and when there are Methodist parsons as passengers, who naturally absented themselves, and would not witness the exhibition.
The last piece, the best of the entertainment was called “Popping the Question,” with the following cast of characters,
Mr H. Primrose – Mrs Langton
Mr Thornton - Mr Rede
Miss Biffin Fraulein Lepper
Miss Winterblossom - Miss Jebb
Ellen, Ward of Mr Primrose Miss Scott
Bobbin, maid - Miss Jackson
Mrs Langton acted Mr Primrose well and was similarly dressed as got up as a man. Fraulein Lepper though a German, with a slight accent, was quite equal to Mrs Langton both in the acting and the conception of the parts she had to play, in fact the action of her placing her head on Mr Primrose’s neck, after he is supposed to have popped the question, the first offer she ever had, was the “Piece de resistance” of the evening! Mr Rede, as Mr Thornton, as only “so so,” Miss Jebb as Miss Winterblossom, looked very attractive and pretty and her eyes -- -- and so did bright eyed Miss Scott, as Ellen, and Miss Jackson, as Bobbin, the maid, created a sensation on her first appearance in that character, both as regards looks and demeanor. The Saloon was frightfully cold, the draft intense and I am apprehensive of rheumatism.
Thursday 3rd December 1885
Last 6 weeks since left England.
Made 303 miles. Thermometer 62.
Beautiful day but cold. Ship going 14 knots equal to 16 miles an hour, all sails set, sea beautifully blue, though rough, with innumerable white crests on the waves. Sports introduced on deck, and the trail of strength, in pulling a rope 13 Sydney Ladies on one side and 13 Melbourne ones on the other resulted in a victory for Sydney. Lady Carrington and her sister Miss Harbord being on Sydney side and enjoying “the tug of war” immensely, notwithstanding tumbling over each other in the 2nd bout. Lady C. Scott on the Melbourne side. Then came a trial of strength between Australian and Englishmen, which resulted both times in a victory for the Englishmen, to the intense delight of the former. For the evening at 8.30, a Spelling Bee took place, in which numbers of the passengers took part. Miss Jackson came out of it the victor and won the prize. Lady Carrington got shipwrecked over the word ‘achieve’ which she spelt ‘acheive’ Mrs Goldfinch, Miss Merewether, Mr Woodruffe, Captain Moseley, Lord Bertie, Mr Robertson, Goldfinch, Dr Wood, Ada Rolleston, Adah Lloyd, Miss McCarthie all tried their skill, but neither M—(illegible) nor the Miss Murrays when facing the examination, nor did the two -- -- Captain Terry.
Friday 4th December 1885
Made 299 miles, Thermometer 63. Ship going 14 knots.
Felt very unwell all day, with severe rheumatic pains about back of head, left hip, finger joints etc.
Returned Captain Gascoigne the books he lent me, Autobiography of Henry Taylors, also the 4 sets of verses made on the “Fancy Ball” of which Lord Carrington, Captain Gascoigne and myself were made the judges. No one, as yet, but myself has, I believe , read them, upon each of which I have commented.
“Fancy” Meter and Rhyme faulty and irregular:
“Boy” Metre irregular, and in one line, meaning obscure if not ungrammatical
“J” Most descriptive and here, there meter irregular.
“Scipio,” more practical than any, though not so descriptive as “J” and metre also faulty in places.
I imagine the race lies between J and “Scipio.” At 3 o’clock, a meeting of the Committee, under the president Lord Carrington, -- the passengers attending I was asked by Mr Darche to “second” a vote of thanks to Lord Carrington: on asking who as to propose it, he informed me that Mr Lark was! I therefore knowing the Mr Lark was once a Linen draper in Sydney, at the firm of Lark and Bennett, felt somewhat put out, and at first hesitated, but on after consideration I thought I could not well refuse on Lord Carrington’s case, without fear of a misconstruction of feeling, and therefore gave a rather unwilling consent, shortly after Dr Atherton came up and told me that it was at his suggestion I had been asked by Committee and as they appeared to him most improperly to have passed me over I told him I had my doubts about it for certain reasons, which he at once anticipated by saying, “I suppose you feel that you ought to have proposed and not seconded,” which I acknowledged was the case. He said he would see about it, and when the meeting was about to take place, Mr Robertson the Barrister informed me that I was appointed to propose and he to second the vote of thanks to the Governor, which was ultimately carried out; I said:-
“My Lords, Ladies and Gentlemen, it is with much pleasure I rise to propose a vote of thanks to H.E. Lord Carrington, who has so kindly and courteously presided at the different meetings held on board this ship, and who has so thoroughly identified himself, with every (many step?) tended to the harmony and good fellowship of all, and I feel sure that there is not any one now assembled here either, from the dear old land of the “United Kingdom” or from the dear new land of “Australia,” who will not agree with me in opinion and say, that the Latin expression “Te duce sum tutus” is so never more appropriately applied, than the His Excellency Lord Carrington either in the capacity of Governor, Soldier, or sportsman. With these few words I bed cordially to move a vote of thanks be accorded to His Excellency Lord Carrington.”
This was seconded by Mr Robertson the Barrister, several other votes of thanks had been previously given to:-
Captain Hector and Officers
Captain Mosely, as Editor of the Carthaginian.
Mr Darchy as Secretary
And the latter formed themselves into a committee to determine what was to be done with the surplus money, 10 or 11, in the hands of the treasurer, and which had been subscribed for prizes. Some wanted to expend it in Champagne and to which Captain Mosely properly objected, thinking it should be devoted to the Seaman’s Fund. It was ultimately agreed to divide it between the Stewards and (Stecrarders?). At dinner time ship going 14 knots; off “Kangaroo Island,” Coast quite near and visible, till long after dark.
Dancing on deck notwithstanding the coldness of the night.
Saturday 5th December 1885
At 3.30 a.m. the noises on board the ship letting go the anchor etc, were so constant and so loud that nearly everyone most have been awakened from sound sleep and on looking out of their ports must have discovered the cause by seeing that we had arrived in “Holdfast” Bay about a mile from “Glenelg.” The wind was particularly cool, if not positively cold. The Governor and suite left the ship I believe at 6, and went straight to Government House, Adelaide, where they became the guests for the day of Sir W. Robinson.
We had breakfast a little earlier today at 8.30, and at about 10, Grace and I accompanied by Miss McCarthie and Miss Merewether, and also by Ada Rolleston and Miss Lloyd as for as the end of the Pier. The distance from Adelaide is about 8 miles and we had to wait for the train leaving at 10.30. Neither Ada Rolleston nor Miss Lloyd, would come with us to Adelaide, saying they wanted to go back to the ship by lunch. Instead of this I understand they were walking about with Dr Wood. Grace, Miss McCarthie and I walked up, from where the train stopped, King William St, and whilst they were shopping, I went to call on Mr Bray, at the Chief Secretary’s Office, he being now one of the Ministers, Chief Secretary. Unfortunately he was out, having gone to Government House, probably to see Lord Carrington. I then hired a carriage for an hour (4/-) and drove to the Botanical Gardens, which, owing to the drought that has pervaded the land, did not look as well or as green as when I last visited there in December 1884. The heat was intense, and after walking about for some time, Miss Merewether’s picking leaves from the Bunya tree, and flowers from the shrub, incurring a possible fine of 10, and a possible imprisonment of 3 months, we drove away, going past and within view of Government House, and then through King William St, into a street at right angles, - , where we went into a pastry cooks and had a sort of lunch. The return fare for each person is 3/- and the fare by Steamer for Carthage to Pier and return 2/- each. On taking our tickets the Captain of the Ferry Boat, told us he would not go till ¼ to 3, and that he would wait for the passengers coming by the 2.15 train from Adelaide. We were anxious to have come sooner but found on looking at the clock it was 1.20, and there was no train till the 2.15. We spoke to a cabby, who would take us for less than 15/-, saying that it was 8 miles to the Pier. On nearing the Pier we found that the Boatman, is Captain upon Steamer, had played us false, he had left earlier than the time mentioned by him, but even if he had waited, his launch was so crowded with passengers that he could not possibly have taken any more aboard, and the passengers party in her were not much less then 50, who like ourselves had been rushed by the Captain upon launch! There were, Mr and Mrs Melville (McMurtrie?), Mrs Golden and son, Mrs Langton and her son, Mrs Chester, Mrs Hyde, Mr Clarke, Mr McMurtrie, Mr and Mrs Murray and 3 daughters, Mr Rede, Mr Robertson, 2 servants of the James, Miss Jackson, Mr and Miss Scott, Mr Barnes, Mr Lark and his son, Mr Perry (Terry?), Mr Sieves, Mr and Mrs Woodriffe.
There was a Launch, the “Fairy” tying up one side of Pier, but the Captain of it had gone to his dinner, and we had to wait fully an hour in the boiling sun, the Pier crowded with a large party of Salvationists who had come to see one of their comrades off in the ‘Chusan,” just arrived from Sydney, and going this evening to England, what with their loud singing and hymns, blocking up the Pier, and separating the passengers anxious to get in to their Launch, the time we spent was a most unenjoyable one, added to the fear we all entertained of the Carthage sailing and leaving us all behind, for the mails had long since been taken on board and Lord Carrington and suite has also left the shore and was then on the ship. However, after the Captain of the Launch had had his dinner he leisurely strolled up to the “Fairy” in which we were taken to the Carthage by 4, just an hour after the time fixed for her departure. Immediately we made our appearance the ship steamed away, to show us I suppose how we had delayed the Captain. We passed close to the “Chusan,” as she lay at anchor. Notwithstanding the heat on land, the cold on board was great, and in the evening after dinner the decks were all deserted. I found in my return to the ship, that Mr J.C. Bray had, whilst I was on land (having read my note to him which I wrote at the Chief Secretary’s Office) had been on board to see me, but not finding me, after waiting a considerable time, left his card for me, with Mr Bruce.
Just before dinner, a few minutes before 6, Dr Atherton, Mr Paterson and Mr Robertson came to my cabin whilst dressing, and asked me to propose the health of Lord Carrington, as soon as the dessert was put on the table. The shortness of which gave me very little time to collect my thoughts or determine what I ought to say, however, I agreed to do it, and about ten minutes after I had been seated at dinner returned to my cabin and concocted the following effusion, asking permission of Captain Hector as Chairman:-
“My Lords, Ladies and Gentlemen, only a few minutes ago, I was asked by the Executive Committee of the Sports and Amusements” on board this ship to propose a Toast; but to which I fear, (owing to the short notice I have had) I shall hardly be able to do that justice which it demands. It is a Toast, however, which I feel sure will meet with your cordial support, and will be drank with as much enthusiasm and heartiness as, not long ago, I heard it received in London, by a company of British Statesmen, Noblemen and Gentlemen, assembled to do honor to it. I dare say many have already anticipated what the Toast will be and you can well understand (under the circumstances of the case) with what delicacy it requires to be handed; indeed I feel that anything I might say in connection with it would be to use Shakespeare’s expression but “painting the Lily, or gilding refined gold,” so that it behoves me rather to give simply the Toast, without comment from myself! All I can say is that it affords me the very greatest pleasure (as perhaps one of the oldest residents in New South Wales, now present), to be the mouthpiece of this large assemblage of people, and on their and on my own part, to assure His Excellency Lord Carrington, that not only as Her Majesty’s Representative but on his own account, he (as well as Lady Carrington) will be most cordially welcomed on arrival in Sydney, by the Colonists at large, who though they be Australians will be found (as Trollop once said) ever “more English than the English themselves!” With these few words I beg to propose the health of His Excellency Lord Carrington, the Governor of New South Wales.”
Lord Carrington returned thanks, thanking me especially for the way his name had been mentioned, and proposing the health of Captain Hector and the Officers of the Carthage, to which Captain Hector made a most excellent reply. At 8 o’clock the 4 sets of verses on the Fancy Ball, which had been judged by Lord Carrington, Captain Gascoigne and myself were read, but I was surprised that the one signed “Scipio” did not (as it was agreed between us) share the prize of £1 each, with the one signed J, instead of which Boy was given it.
Later in the evening Lord Carrington came up to me in the Saloon, shook me warmly by the hand, and said “I have to thank you Mr Marsh for the nice way you proposed my health in your speech, both Lady Carrington and myself are exceedingly gratified etc.” I forgot to mention that Mrs and Mrs Alexander Gordon and family from Sydney are passengers on the “Chusan” to England. Lady Charles Scott’s father, My Ryan, came to meet her and escorts her to Melbourne.
I was asked to subscribe 7/6 by Dr Atherton and Sheraton towards payment of Champagne last night used in drinking Lord Carrington’s health.
Sunday 6th December 1885
Made 233 miles, Thermometer 62
Shortly after breakfast, I saw Lady Carrington in the Saloon, when she addressed me in similar terms to those Lord Carrington used to me last night saying how much pleased she was at the way I had proposed Lord Carrington’s health. I told her I was afraid I had not, in consequence of the short notice I had received of my having to do it, done it justice. She, however, assured me to the contrary and said they were both excessively pleased with it. Just before prayers at 10.30, Miss Harbord came up to me and said the same thing, though not with the same earnestness that Lord and Lady Carrington did. The Captain read the prayers twice today, in the morning at 10.30 and at 8 in the evening. Large congregations, and a fuller choir than usual, Captain Therry accompanied on the Piano. A great number of passengers came on board yesterday besides Mr Ryan, there were Mr Jervois, son of the Governor of New Zealand, and a Mrs Chatfield.
Mr Darchy had what is called a dinner party, consisting of the 3 A.D.C.’s of Lord Bertie, Captain Therry, and Mr Leigh, and Goldfinch, Captain Mercer and the 3 officers of Carthage, Mr Jackso. Made the acquaintance of Mr Ryan who has kindly promised tomorrow put my name down as (Hon by?) Member of Melbourne Club.
Monday 7th December 1885
We reached Sandridge Pier, Melbourne about 8 or 9 a.m. but long before that the Pilot came on board, it was not much before 10 that the passengers were able to walk down the steps and get to the train, which today was drawn up alongside of the Steamer on the Wharf. The “Iberia” next to us with the pier between. She is bound for England and has the widow Mrs A Stanger (Stangerheathes?) (formerly a Miss Dewhurst) on board. A special train had been provided for Lord Carrington and suit, and they were met at the Pier and received by Lord Castlerope(?) and Captain Trail. Sir William and Lady Clarke, Mrs Labertmete(?) of the Railway Department, it must have been about 11 o’clock before the Train steamed off. A guard of honor was waiting on arrival at Terminus, and the Vice Regal party were then driven to Government House where they will remain till Wednesday next, when the Carthage leaves at noon for Sydney. About 70 passengers, mostly Melbourne people, left by the next train, which very soon after followed the special with the Governor. Amongst the number were:-
Lady Charles Scott
Mr and Mrs Andrew Murray and 3 daughters.
Mr and Mrs Bruce
Mr and Mrs Holland
Hon Mr and Mrs and 2 Miss Munros
Mr and Miss Pratt
Mr and Mrs Chapman
Mr and Miss Scott
Mr and Mrs Melville
Mr and Mrs Gordon
Mr and Miss King
Dr and Mrs James
Mr and 2 Miss Jebbs
Mr O Jones went by train to Sydney
Grace had a consultation with Ada Rolleston (she and two other girls with us) and it was arranged to drive up and have lunch at the “Grand” by 1.30: just as we were leaving the ship sides, we were joined by the ship’s Doctor, Dr Wood on the wharf, seeing this, and not wishing to give countenance to his being with us, ie the young girls under our charge, I stopped and told the girls we had better not go at 11, in the hope of getting rid of him, but wait till after lunch. This met with a rude hasty reply from Miss Lloyd who angrily said “if we do not go at once we had better not go at all.” I took her up shortly, and said if those were her sentiments it was easily settled, by not going, however, after all we did go. Just as we were starting, the 3 girls with us, who should come up to us but Dr Wood! He came up to and joined our party and – turning to me in a jaunty manner said “What a hot day this is likely to be.” I was angry at him thus forcing, or trying to force himself on us, and said “Dr Wood I do not wish for your company, nor that you should accompany us anywhere.” To this he replied “I think you might have given me a more polite answer.” I became nettled and raising my voice loudly, again repeated the words I had previously spoken, adding “I do not wish to bandy words with you,” which had the effect of making him sneak away out of our sight. At dinner time owing there being so many vacant seats at table he managed to get a seat nearly opposite where Ada Rolleston sat, and kept up a running conversation with herself and Adah Lloyd in the most defiant manner to me.
We carried out our intention of going up by train to Melbourne and from thence drove to the Grand Hotel, where we had a bad lunch, bad cookery, and bad provisions, the heat was intense, 115 in the sun, the hottest day they say they have had this year. Sent a telegram to Wise, Lady Manning, and Plunkett (Under Secretary) and posted 2 letters for Grace, one to Marie Russell, and the other to George Pinnock. I went to the Melbourne Club of which I was made an Honorary Member through the kind (estimability?) of Mr Ryan. Looked through the rooms after. Purchased a gold (string?) ring, got prescription made up at chemists, had my eye glass mended, and lastly my hair cut at Barbers, who told me that Lord A Loftus(?) had come in to the shop (appearing?) ordinary individual, and had his hair cut. He left Sydney last week, and goes home in the “Caledonienne,” one of the French Messagerie Line. Philip King came for the Goldfinchs, John King of Gippsland to meet his wife and daughter, and Essington King to see his relatives. “Melbourne” had not the same handsome appearance as it presented itself to my eyes last year when I passed through. Whether the heat of the (socuther?) or that it suffers by contrast with England and French cities I have seen lately, I cannot quite make up my mind, but it is not, I now think, comparable with Sydney. We returned by the 5.10 train from the Spencer St Railway and had to walk a considerable distance from South William street to ship Carthage. Grace much knocked up and complaining of the old pain in back being returned again today, for the first time since we left Sydney 12 months ago.
Coaling on board finished tonight, everything very uncomfortable.
Tuesday 8th December 1885
Very warm, and thick hazy weather. Must have been nearly 90 in the evening, vey much cooler on deck, a Southerly wind about 4 till late. Ada Rolleston and Marion McCarthie accompanied Grace and myself to the (town?) and had lunch at Grand Hotel. Adah Lloyd took it into her head to remain behind on shipboard. Ada Rolleston had invited a young friend, a Miss Cropper, to come and lunch with us at the Grand, which she did, she is a very pleasing looking girl and I like her.
Met Miss Merewether in Bourke ST, looking for some place to get a cup of tea. I suggested her visiting with us to the “Grand Hotel.
Carthage arrived Sydney 11 December 1885
1885 – Invite to State Banquet presided over by Right Hon Lord Carrington and Sir Saul Samuel, K.C.M.G. 9th May 1885. Sat between Mr C. Townsend Gedy and Mr Grafton Ross. He was across from Sir William McArthur, K.C.M.G,, The Hon. Robert H. Meade, Sir Alfred Roberts and Sir Philip Cuncliffe Owen K.C.M.G. etc and Sir Charles Tupper, K.C.M.G. who was the High Commissioner for Canada.
(James Augustus Milbourne Marsh) (1838 diary) (1840 diary) (1844 diary) (1845 letters) (1846 diary) (1847 diary) (1847b diary) (1848 diary) (1851 diary) (1859 diary) (1873 diary) (1885 diary) (1888 diary) (1889 diary) (1889b diary) (diary Lady Mary Ann Meek nee Grant)