John Augustus Milbourne Marsh 24th Jan 1819-1891
- - Journal commencing 24th December 1889
Grace and I had returned to Manly on 2nd November from Brisbane (where we went for change of air from the middle of August to the end of October) The first few months we found the climate very pleasant and agreeable, Thermometer 63°, cool nights and clearing away in the day, but the last month we were there the summers come so suddenly upon us that we thought it prudent to beat a retreat, the Thermometer often standing at 125° in the sun, and in the shade at an average of 72°, however on return we found Sydney or rather Manly Beach with the North East Winds, most trying and by the advice of Dr Atherton, we determined to go on a sea voyage and ultimately fixed upon Dunedin, New Zealand as our choice.
We had to pack up not only our clothes but our pictures which we left at McMahon’s House, and were not able to get ready before the 24th December. Having agreed the passage ourselves, return ticket via Auckland with the Union Steam Ship Company for 30 to last 3 months.
The “Waihatapu” (Wakatapu?) Steamer, 160 tons, was to have left on the 23rd, Monday, but she postponed her departure till Tuesday. We were therefore all this morning packing one’s boxes of clothes and placing things to be left behind in Wise’s care ( viz my hat and Grace’s bath). Had a hasty lunch at 12.30 and at 1started for Manly Pier with the 3 children, Gracie, Helen and Marie and waited there till 1.30 for the Water Police Launch “Nemesis” which I had ordered to meet us and take us to the wharf at Darling Harbour, Sussex ST, where our Steamer “Waihatapu” was lying. We embarked at 2.30 but found it was said, she would not leave till 3.30, which enabled me to go to Australian Joint Stock Bank and get £50 in gold from thence. We found Nevill and Marie Dowling, who had come to wish us “good bye” and Rae Russell, also Camden, Goodhope of Hunter’s Hill, also Wise and Milly. Gave 3 to Water Police, to Wallace, as an honorarium. The children returned with the Dowlings, and Re Russell in the Launch to the Circular Quay, where Mr – was to meet them and take them back with him to Manly Beach by the “Brighton.” Wise remained longer then the rest of our party, waiting half an hour to our departure, till 6 pm talking to his friends Mr, Mrs Row, Miss McFarlane who is travelling with them to New Zealand.
Wednesday 25th December 1889
What a curious Christmas day is this! Very dull and gloomy, most of the passengers absent from table, ill I presume! The sea smooth, yet ship rolling very much, and unsteady from great swell. No particular dinner to mark the day, no speeches, no merriment, anything but pleasant or celebratory, in the cribbed cabin, and confined space we have placed ourselves in for a time!
Thursday 26th December 1889
Our Cabin a two berthed one, one berth above the other, is small but to ourselves, and in a good part of the ship, though Grace has to use a short ladder to get into the bunk, which with the aid of the little Stewardess she ascends at night and descends again in getting down in the morning. My rheumatic tendency preventing my attempting to soar so high, or rather to scale such a relative height.
Our Captain (Wheeler) is a fine specimen of a “Modern” Skipper, the very essence of kindness and courtesy, particularly to women, and is a favourite naturally with passengers. He has none of the “airs and graces” of his more fashionable brothers the P & O Captains, but just as intelligent and experienced. He is very disappointed that we shall not touch at “Nelson” this time where his wife and home and 9 children are, and whom he has not visited for more than a year.
A change of temperature, only 73° the Thermometer. Grace very unwell with cold and headache. She did not get up therefore to breakfast, though not sick. Gave her “Dullanna” several times during the day; found out the names of the passengers of which is the following list.
Mr C.R Howard
Rev J Keating R.C.
Mr C Hettey
Miss Cleary – a nurse from Brisbane
Mr and Mrs and 2 Misses and 2 Mst Laings
Mr and Mrs Bartholomew
And 8 in the steerage
Mr and S Storey
Mr C Groom
Mr Henry Smith
Mr F Holle
Mr and Mrs Packer
Mr – G Caw
Mr R.A. Austen
Mr P Browne
Mr G.H. FitzHarding
Mr and Mrs Clark
Mr S Murray
Miss Nash (2)
Mr C.S. Royon
Mr and Mrs Rose(?)
Mr and Mrs Marsh
Mr Eden junior
Mr J Lahane
And 8 in the steerage
Of the above Mrs Heathy (Heatly?) a widow of Wellington, has just returned from England where she published a book of the Wild Flowers of New Zealand through (Kingston?), price 3.3, her brother is Collector of Customs at Wellington. She seems disappointed at the book not being a money making speculation. Miss Gillies, I believe, is daughter or niece of a relative of one of the late Judges of New Zealand, a bright sprightly girl. Miss Jardine a Scotch primitive old maid, with a nose so much a (smooth?) prononcee. The R.C. Clergyman Father Keating, just from England and on a tour of the Country, a regular “Globe Trotter.” On seeing that no service was about to be performed on board on Christmas Day, he gave a broad hint that he would be very happy to read the Church of England Service, but his proposition met with no response, and the matter dropped, notwithstanding he hinted that he had acted thus once before when at sea.
We went 248 knots (miles?) today. I had commencement of a cold and sore throat. Took “Belladonna” and “Duleamara.” This ship very slow!
Friday 27th December 1889
Beautiful day, ill in bed with severe influenza, did not get up. Took several – of the medicine, the greater relief from ‘mere vomica” which cured the sore throat and headache. Went 249 miles today.
Saturday 28th December 1889
Beautiful day, went 250 miles today. Much better today, got up after breakfast. All the lady passengers were up on deck today, for first time.
We hope to arrive in Wellington some time tomorrow.
Sunday 29th December 1889
My cold and cough still very troublesome. Had recourse to “Glyphic(?)” medicine, which did me much good. Weather became cooler and we entered Wellington Harbour at 7.30pm. Several went ashore at night, more remained on board. We skirted the land since 2 o’clock in the afternoon, and saw some rocks in mid channel called “The Brothers.” As we arrived in Port, the wind became extremely cold, and disagreeable, and my influenza prevented me going on shore.
Made 229 miles today.
No Service held on board, and the Priest, “Rev Father Keating” made allusions to the circumstances, giving another hint that he would (if asked) be happy to do so. (read the Church of England Service)
So far we have had a prosperous and very smooth passage on the whole. On arrival in Wellington, we heard that the Union Steam Ship Company Wharf in Sydney from whence we parted had been burnt down, and the Stores, the very evening of our departure. Contents valued at £300,000.
Thermometer ranging from 72° to 754°.
I find that there is upwards of an hour and a quarter between Wellington and Sydney time, so the Skipper says. The Captain name, Wheeler, a very polite nice fellow, many years connected with the New Zealand Trade, upward of 60 years of age.
Monday 30th December 1889
On going on deck, after breakfast, found the day very cold, a severe wind blowing. The Steamer “Tarawera” is to leave this afternoon at 3 o’clock for “Dunedin” some of our passengers were therefore transferred from this ship to her, but there was no room for us, at least no special cabin to ourselves, and therefore we, by advice of the Captain, determined to wait till tomorrow and go to “Lyttleton.”
- by the “Waihora”
- on route (blank0
- to “Port Chalmers.”
Squalls of rain and bitterly cold wind till after lunch, when a great number of passengers left us, Miss Gillies amongst others. Grace and I sallied out after lunch to the town of Wellington, the Capital of New Zealand, to purchase views of the place and Homeopathic medicines; then took a close carriage for a drive (at 3/- an hour). Drove first to the Museum near Government House, the Governor and Lady Onslow are at Dunedin for a change of air. Then we drove to the “Gardens” which are very extensive and seem more noted for the shrubbery and fine grown trees than for flowers. The road through it is called the “Bettize(?)” road, cut through the hills, and above and around it is a large Cemetary apparently formed on the very top of a (nearby?) hill, the face of which is covered with the English gorse, and other shrubs. We saw also on the way other Government Buildings including an imposing ugly building, the “Police Station.” In the Museum saw a very interesting collection, a Maori Tenement ornamented with their rich carvings, well executed. Then there were specimens of skulls of the natives from different islands round about and what interested me more than anything was a cast of a skull of the celebrated Dean Swift. Specimens of Brizilia Butterflies I had never seen the like before. Also there was a pile of guns of a former day, with flint locks, which in my boyish day were only used by all Sportsmen I remember for that the first Pheasant I ever shot was with a gun having a Flint lock, there were no others then to be had! There was a the Museum a well preserved mummy in case of nearly 2000 years old, supposed in the reign of one of the “Ptolemy’s” and believed to be a Priest with a geneology!
We returned to the wharf, just in time to see the “Tarawera” leave with her passengers for Dunedin.
Very cold still, Thermometer fell to 68° in cabin.
The town of Wellington is situated in a sort of basin with lofty picturesque hills around it, not unlike something to the hills in the Wellington District of New South Wales.
I understand it contains a population of 60,000 people, and the Chief City, where the Governor resides generally. Lord Onslow has temporarily gone to Dunedin for the benefit of his health, and hopes in the mean time that the Government House drains at Wellington are looked into as it was owing to bad drainage that typhoid fever broke out and his son Lord Cranley, a lad of 12 or 14 years, nearly died, a mere lad, after their first arrival at Wellington.
My cold somewhat better, notwithstanding the great change from heat to cold. The Miss Nash’s with their friends from Maitland, Mr Hile (Hill?) went to the Theatre to see the play “Forlorn Hope” and induced an elderly man and his wife to accompany them, Mr and Mrs Clarke.
In the afternoon Miss Gillies came to afternoon tea, accompanied a sprightly young girl, her cousin about 15, rather attractive girl, both of them. In the evening the Captain went ashore to avoid, I presume, the Coal dust and the noise of the Steam winches all going at once, both loading and unloading coal, sprinkling coal dust all over the cabin. Mr and Mrs Row and Miss McFarlane went on shore to the “Empire Hotel” at Wellington for the night.
Tuesday 31st December 1889
Coaling commenced again at 8 o’clock am, making it very uncomfortable the mean while obliging us to have our ‘Ports’ closed. The noise of the winches gave me a very bad headache and I was unable to get up till 11 o’clock when Grace and I sallied out into Wellington walking first to the Post Office, built upon the wharf as it were, then we had tea and bread and butter at a Confectioner’s taking a tram worked by horses, to the Lambert Wharf, and to the Railway Station, which we entered at 1.15, for the purpose of going to the “Lower Hutt” where we were informed some remarkable gardens were to be seen. The Line the Railway travelled was very picturesque, the train moving on a level the whole way with the Ocean itself and the high mountains toppling over us, on the other side of the line, covered with all sorts of foliage, trees, ferns, palms and pine trees. At one time the line was very tortuous, describing as it were the letter S, and the train being a very long one, was at one time concealed, and the engine out of our view, as it wound round the round headland in advance, the distance to the “Hutt” not more than 6 or 7 miles. On arrival at the Terminus we thought it as well to take an Omnibus to the Lower Hutt Gardens, but there being some doubt of it would bring us back on time for 3.22 return train, we gave up the plan preferring not to risk the time, so remained at the Station the whole time,, particularly as our Steamer “The Wakatapu” was to sail at 5 in the evening.
We reached Wellington at 5.10, buying, on our way through the town, the most beautiful strawberries and gooseberries we had seen for many a day! Whilst waiting at the station at the “Lower Hutt” a Maori woman and little daughter came there, she was considerably tattoed about the lips and in consequence looked most repulsive, she wore an Ear-ring, shark’s teeth suspended from the lobes of the ear, by being tied with some black ribbon, the teeth heavily gilded at one end. After reaching our ship, about half an hour before sailing our former fellow passenger Miss Gillies came again to afternoon tea, and with her sprightly cousin did the honors of the Tea table for the Captain.
Many new passengers joined our party in the place of those who had left us, on our arrival in Wellington. A rather motley look these, mostly men, only 2 women, such as they were!
The ship left at 6 and we went on deck to admire the Harbour as we passed through it, the wind strong and cold, though bearable, apparently a very difficult navigation at night in most weather, I should think.
Thermometer only 71° yet the climate feels much colder, one’s hands terribly chilled. I forgot to mention that the train we took to the “Lower Hutt” today and back, was not only very slow, but delayed along the rod for no considerable reason, and was very dirtily kept, a lot of young girls returned with us to Wellington on it, and like ourselves were going North by some Steamer this evening at 5.
At 8 o’clock sea became somewhat rough, ship rolling a good deal. Some of the Ladies singing on deck till late, sounded very prettily. Made the acquaintance with one of the new passengers, he has just arrived from Sydney by the “Valetta” about a fortnight ago, some years he came to Sydney before with Fronde (Froude?) the Historian, when the “London” Contingent left Sydney, he says he was lately an Honorable Member of the Australian Club and was so at Wellington he says. He looks like a Reporter, but says he is often taken for a Naval Office, having so often travelled with them.
Wednesday 1st January 1890
We had a rough night of it last night. After leaving Wellington last evening the force of the wind broke the main topsail yard in two, but fully to be expected owing to the decayed state it was in but it was lucky that no men were aloft reefing, otherwise they would have fallen into the sea. We seemed to skirt the shore the whole way, “Mt Cook” capped with snow was very visible. I did not see it myself but the Captain showed it to Grace at breakfast time. After breakfast we encountered severe squalls of rain and wind and prevented my going on deck. Very cold in cabin, Thermometer 64°.
Reached “Lyttleton” by afternoon. Thermometer fell to 63°, pouring rain and piecing wind. Notwithstanding they were keeping a holiday, and a Regatta was being held, all the shipping in the Harbour including H.M.S. “Opal” and “Lizard” decked with bright colours, large crowds from Christchurch, were assembled, the women particularly drenched to the skin, and flitting from one steamer to another for shelter, which was willingly offered them, and which they made no scruples of accepting, going down to the cabins and on deck, sitting on the chairs inside without any diffidence and acting the Sydney Larikins ever again! I stayed in the Captain’s cabin the whole time, much amused with the motley crowd who came constantly on board, wetting the deck with their dripping garments. The steamer “Tarracoona” lay at the same wharf and next to us and helped to draw off from us some of the crowd for a time, until the spirit moved them to come back to us. The “Tarracoona” had not long arrived before us. She was going to leave for Wellington again in the evening.
Before entering Lyttleton we observed the hills in the distance all capped with snow. Old Residents say they do not remember experiencing so strong and cold a wind before. Several passengers left in afternoon, notwithstanding the heavy rain, for Christchurch by railway which goes every 10 minutes and goes through a tunnel of one miles and a half distance, about 8 or 9 minutes from Lyttleton. Mr and Mrs Row and Miss McFarlane, and the Nashs have just gone from the ship “Wakatapu.”
Mr Maybury, of Manly , has just called to say he is returning tomorrow by the “Wakatapu” to Sydney, has taken the cabin we have just occupied. Grace gave a letter to him for Wise, which he has promised to deliver. Most of the holiday seekers we saw at Lyttleton had come from Christchurch, by the early trains, they having left when it was fine, not anticipating such a wet miserable day, so bad that the Regatta had to be postponed till next week.
Lyttleton has a very foreign appearance, built on the sides of two lofty hills, quite overtopping the town, one 1181 feet high, the other, Mt Pleasant only 900 feet.
Thursday 2nd January 1890.
Grace and I dressed at 9, as it was intimated to us that the S.S. “Waihora” bound to Dunedin was likely to arrive early from Wellington. She did arrive before we were up, much to the surprise of Captain Wheeler who sent his Chief Officer to inquire for us if we could get a cabin to ourselves, fortunately we could, and therefore we were employed the whole morning, in getting our luggage from the “Wakatapu” to the “Waihora” with the assistance of our Stewards, whom we had of course to fee for their trouble.
Both vessels at an early hour commenced loading and unloading coals etc and we were distracted with the noise made without cessation by the two steam winches, fortunately though the “Wakatapu” as loading coal there was not much coal dust flying about us when coaling at Wellington, whether or not to let a passenger ship such as ours carry coal for speculation is rather objectionable and not usually adopted by large companies such as the “Union.”
Grace sent a Telegram to the Yorke’s at Dunedin to tell them of our arrival at Lyttleton and probably departure from thence this afternoon.
The early part of the morning was very warm but at 3 when we left Lyttleton, Thermometer was 65°.
To our surprise we found our fellow passengers Miss Gillies and her cousin had arrived in the “Waikoura” from Wellington which she left after we did. She says that that ship rolled about very much last night, but she travels at great speed, 15 knots an hour.
To my further surprise Basil Hall of H.M.S. “Opal” came on board the “Wakatapu” today to try and borrow a piano from the Captain for the use of a Concert this evening, it being however a fixture in the cabin, he was unsuccessful.
Great difficulty experienced in getting our boxes from the hold, and our cabin and having them safely placed on the Railway tracks alongside the “Waihora” preparatory to the train leaving at 11.15am.
Although our contract ticket was to take us to Dunedin direct, yet Port Chalmers at which we disembarked, and 9 miles away from Dunedin and we had to find our way there (and at our own expense besides Stewards fees having again to be paid on the “Waihora”) by railway to Dunedin. We found on board the “Waihora” about 40 cabin passengers bound to Melbourne as well as Dunedin. When we left the “Wakatapu” ;last evening, she was still unloading at the wharf at Lyttleton. After leaving Lyttleton we skirted the coast the whole way till arrival at Port Chalmers. We have a better cabin in the “Waihora” than on the “Wakatapu” a three berth cabin, so that the ladder system to reach a top berth was dispensed with.
Friday 3rd January 1890
We arrived at 9 o’clock am in the morning at “Port Chalmers,” very prettily situated and to our astonishment find that the ship went no further, and that we should have to reach Duneding by the railway at 11.15, of course this was a distinct head of agreement: we had great difficulty in getting our boxes safely placed in the railway trucks from the ship’s hold, which had afterwards to be connected with the railway, but of course this was additional trouble and expense and we had to pay the Stewards for their fees 6/6 and 1/- to porter.
Whilst we were waiting for railway, waiting for the train to Dunedin, the one from Dunedin arrived, with Campbell Yorke and Cis, who came to meet us, and we returned together, reaching Dunedin about 12.20, the view the whole very (bounded?) on one side and the ocean and lofty hills in the distance, very picturesque.
Grace, on arrival got a cab for us 2/- and a van for our luggage 5/-, and a few minutes brought us to his house opposite the Church “St Matthews” at the corner of Hope St, Stafford Stree, had a delightful lunch prepared for us by Cissy, with blackcurrent tart and strawberries as a finish. I went out afterwards by myself to reconnoiter the town, which is large and the principal street, Princes St which is long, full of country visitors for the Exhibition which is in full swing. Being tired I took a tram worked by three horses abreast to the Highland Sports as far as the Entrance thereto, and then returned back again, merely to have a look at the town. Met on of my fellow passengers by the “Waihora” and her daughter by the “Waihora,” who was in great anxiety about her luggage from the ship, one of her boxes not having been found on arrival.
In the evening a Mr and Mrs Bridges called, he a cousin of Captain Bridges R.N., our friend formerly of H.M.S. Wolverine, he is people’s Churchwarden at St.Matthews.
My cough and cold getting worse and feverish symptoms of bronchitis coming on.
Saturday 4th January 1889
A Miss Nevill (without the ‘e’) niece of the Bishop of Dunedin lunched here and with a Mrs Boyd (friend of Cissy’s) strolled together to the Exhibition building: the New South Wales court was the most prominent if any, and we on the way called on the Commissioner for New South Wales, Oscar Mayer, and there met Joubert who has much to do with the general management of the whole of the “New Zealand” South Seas Exhibition, now in full show. We had tea at the Refreshment Room, and then walked through the main Building which was crowded. Became very tired walking about and went to bed early. Laid up with an attack of Bronchitis accompanied with bilious fever and through the night I must have caught a virulent cold and chill, with vomiting. I have caught the cold first at Lyttleton from exposure to the wind and rain, and cold we met with there on Wednesday, the 1st January.
Sunday 5th January 1890
My cough and cold at its climax, had to remain in bed all day, my bronchitis very severe, taking all sorts of homeopathic medicine as a remedy.
Grace would not go to Church in the morning on account of my being so ill. For the evening however she did go, leaving Cissy behind to see if she could be of any assistance. The Church opens at 6.30 of an evening, all the people coming at 8 o’clock. Except in England I never saw such a remarkable twilight lasting till nearly 9 o’clock.
Monday 6th January 1890
Thermometer 68°. I got up about 1 o’clock, middle day: I sat in the Drawing Room, with a fire, to keep the chill away from me. Much better today, only sneezed once, and cough subsided. Cissy went in afternoon visiting, called at Government House being Lady Onslow’s Reception day. The Governor and old schoolfellow of Yorke’s.
Tuesday 7th January 1890
My cold and cough very bad indeed. At noon went out of doors, took a waggonette and drove to the Bank of New Zealand and presented my draft for A.J.S. Bank (Austrailian Joint Stock Bank) for £50, and had that sum placed to my credit there.
Gave £3 to Grace for expenses and went to Chemist for “Mercurius,” and then drove to the Dunedin Club where my name has been put down as an Honorary Member by Twopenny, found that Judge Windeyer was also staying at the Club, he was not there, so I wrote him a note.
Wednesday 8th January 1890
Stayed in bed all day, felt so unwell with cold and cough and bronchitis, sent for Dr Colquhoun who prescribed for me.
Rev Mr Flavelle came this evening from Christchurch and took up his quarters here, he and Yorke having agreed to exchange pulpits next Sunday with each other. Raining all day with piercing wind.
Twilight continued till nearly 9 o’clock p.m.
Thursday 9th January 1890
Raining all day long with keen wind blowing. Thermometer 61°. Stomach relieved today, and headache left me.
Sent for an old woman, as nurse. Gave £3 more to Grace for our expenses. Stayed in bed all day long, by advice of Doctor Colquhoun, who called a second time this afternoon. Bishop of Dunedin called on Grace and myself, apologizing for his wife, whose day at home is today (Thursday).
Friday 10th January 1890
Kept my bed all day, cloudy and a keen wind, Thermometer 60°, no sun. Yorke had a reading at his Church at 2.30 and afterwards Cis and he went to the Wedding breakfast at the Bride’s house. A Mr Williams married a Miss Maitland, not known to fame!
Saw in today’s paper that Windeyer had gone by the “Tarawera” to the Milford Sounds and also Mr and Mrs Row and Miss McFarlane had gone on this expedition, all the rage now.
Had no sleep last night from coughing incessantly and found a remedy in “Glyhaline”, a homeopathic medicine I brought from England with me, obtained at Leath & Ross’s. A week today since we came to Dunedin. Dr Colquhoun prescribed a medicine tonight to put me to sleep, “Salpholine” which was very beneficial.
Saturday 11th January 1890
Slept well and comfortably all night. Had a third visit from Dr Colquhoun this afternoon after I had got up and went in to the Drawing Room.
Lord Carrington was expected to arrive from Sydney, on H.M.S. “Orlando” with Admiral Lord Charles Scott, but he did not.
Thermometer 60°. Had a fire in my bedroom, to get up by.
A Dr Oatley of H.M.S. “Lizard” called on Cecil today, and says the “Orlando” is not allowed on account of her size to go inside the “Heads” and that H.M.S. “Lizard” will have to go outside to meet Lord Carrington when he comes. Lady Onslow gave a garden party on Monday, which is to be held (by consent of the Members of the Dunedin ‘Fernhill’ Club). Yorke left at 11, by train for Christchurch, and will arrive at his destination at 9.10 pm. My cold and cough better today.
Sunday 12th January 1890
Rain during the day, off and on. Yorke absent doing duty at (Canterbury crossed out) Christchurch. Rev Mr Flavelle acted for him, and preached at St. Matthews. Grace went in the morning to Church, preceded by Dr Oatley of H.M.S. “Lizard.”
A large number of Members of the Fire Brigade attended St Matthews with their Band. The Governor and Lady Onslow, accompanied by their young son, Lord Cranley (quite a boy, a Miss Constable who is staying with them attended the Church, to give a dash of éclat to the proceedings. Miss Constable a sister of Mrs Edward Hodgson of Darling Downs, Queensland. I watched the people going in and out of Church before I got up.
Warmer today, Thermometer 65°. The Governor of New South Wales, Lord Carrington did arrived at Dunedin late in the afternoon, 6 o’clock and went to what is called Government House as the guest of Lord Onslow.
The Rev Canon Andrews of Adelaide, who is passing through Dunedin preached the evening at St Matthews at the request of Rev Mr Flavelle who is acting for Yorke today.
Monday 13th January 1890
Thermometer 62°, wind very cold and raining off and on all day. Afraid to venture out on account of bronchitis. Rev Mr Flavelle left after breakfast and returned to Christchurch by railway.
Lady Onslow held an “At Home” at 3.30 at the Dunedin Club to which Cecil went, also Miss Nevill.
Dr Colquhoun paid me a fourth visit, and prescribed for me; he had just been at Lady Onslow’s “At Home” at the Club, where he said, he saw a Chinese Merchant and a Pawn Broker, amongst the visitors!
Lord Carrington and Admiral Lord Charles Scott were both there as a set off, as it were.
A Mrs Valange took shelter at Cecil’s from a heavy rain storm, her husband an accountant at a Merchant’s Office, suddenly discharged with only a week’s notice, on the score of retrenchment!!!
Tuesday 14th January 1890
Rain all day and very cold wind. Grace, Cissy and I (?) afternoon Concert at Exhibition. In the morning Lord Carrington, Lord Charles Scott and others celebrities, Minister of Justice (Gould) Colonial Secretary(?) McMillan, D O’Connor, R.B.Smith, R.H.S. White arrived in Dunedin. In the evening Lady Onslow gave a “Fancy Ball,” Lord Carrington went in “Pink,” I suppose ‘Hunting Costume.” Lady Onslow as Dame Onslow of 15th Century, a dress of her’s as belonging to a former member of the family.
Wednesday 15th January 1890
Very unwell, owing to Aliopathic Medicines prescribed by Dr Colquhoun. Grace and Cis went out after lunch notwithstanding the rain and said they did not get wet!
Thursday 16th January 1890
Wrote to Wise about my not endorsing his Bill for £30. Banquet at the Exhibition Bulding to the two Governors by New South Wales Court, McMillen Chairman, Gould Minister of Justice, also present and spoke. Dr Colquhoun paid me fifth visit. Cold rainy day.
Friday 17th January 1890
Yorke returned from Christchurch at 9.15 by train. Went out of doors for first time, since my illness, down Prince St. Miss Nevill came to stay with Cecil as she is going to the Ball given by Dunedin Club tonight, she is going with Mrs Chamberlain.
Grace and Cecil went to Mrs Rattray’s afternoon tea.
Met Sheikh Badoodeen in Prince Street, just arrived, to try his fortune here, in making Indian sauces.
Saturday 18th January 1890
Heard from Wise, Mrs Row called on Grace on her return from visiting the Sound, had dreadful weather, and many inconveniences she says. Judge Windeye was laid up with the Gout, on the way. Bishop of Dunedin called and saw Grace.
Sunday 19th January 1890
Felt better. Grace went to Church in the morning, Cecil did not feel well enough.
Miss Nevill came in again from Bishopsgrove, and went with Grace and myself to evening Church at 6.30. Yorke performed Service, a good deal of chanting and intoning and a sermon quoted expression by a book called “Looking Backward,” where people are supposed (150 years to come) to hear sermons and services performed in America) this the medium of the Telegraph. Mr Dixon (son of a Solicitor of Melbourne) came to supper, also a Mr and Mrs Cates, he of the Comedy Company.
Monday 20th January 1890
Raining off and on all day, bitterly cold wind. Thermometer 62°. I did not go out all day. Grace and Cecil went out and called on Mrs Twopenny and also a Mrs Bridges, and on three widows, Mrs Wood and Mrs Brown.
In the morning a Mrs Bowen, a pretty young woman and her sister, a Miss Steel called and after them a Mrs and Miss Austin. Mrs Nevill the wife of the Bishop of Dunedin, called on Grace. Miss Nevill, her niece reached home early after leaving this at 9am. A Vestry meeting held at St Matthews at which Yorke was, and attended also by Cecil.
Tuesday 21st January 1890
Fine day, Thermometer 61°. Heard from Milly, 13th January, going to take a house at St.Leonards, Mount St. Felt better today, walked to the Post Office. Felt better today, walked to the Post Office. And from thence to the “Union Steam Company Office” where I saw Mr Houghton, whom I saw before at the office in Sydney, he says, on answering to my question, that a Steamer leaves every evening to Auckland, on Wednesdays. Returned to lunch, and afterwards went to the “Dunedin Club” found that my name had been put down as an Honorary Member on the 10th by Mr Mills, the Manager of the Union Steam Company, and he had also put down, at the same time, the names of several other Sydney people, “an Globo” as it were, Honorable A. McMillan, Honorable Gould, Honorable Daniel O’Connor, Honorable James Norton, Honorable H.M. White having already been put down on 31st December by Twopenny. I was surprised to find my name a second time and it does not say much for the attention of the Secretary, in not having informed me of the circumstance in either case. From Club, I walked to the Exhibtion, near at hand, and remained inspecting the different Courts till 6.30, when I hurried back to dinner. Met Miss Nevill here, going to pass the evening. (accompanied by two other young girls, one she introduced me to, a Miss Lloyd). The Victorian Court was extensive, and the water colours drawings of some merit, so also the flowers painted by Mrs Rowen (of Melbourne). An exhibition of carriages had attached to it wooden grey horses, fully harnessed, and the imitation was really good and real, with the exception of the feet and nostrils of the horses, otherwise they “passed muster” well, and put one in mind of the beautiful carriage horses one sees in London. The shape so well imitated! There was a French Court, which seemed to have very gay Ladies and children’s dresses.
Grace and Cecil called at Government House in the afternoon. Lord and Lady Kintone with their two sons Lord Inverary and Lord Falconer arrived in Dunedin last night, and are guests of Lady Onslow.
Mrs Colquhoun, the Doctor’s wife called, an agreeable young woman, has travelled a good deal, both in China and Japan. Mrs Cates and child lunched at the Yorke’s, he, Mr Cate, called for her after, she goes to Christchurch tomorrow, he on Thursday.
Yorke had a (meeting chudering?) at his Church at 2 o’clock, and attended Synodical meeting in the evening.
Wednesday 22nd January 1890
Thermometer 64° today. Fine day and much warmer.
Miss Rattray andMiss Williams (2) passed the morning here, helping to make blue bows for the Sunday School children for their picnic on Saturday.
After lunch I went to the Club and after writing an hour, walked to the exhibition, just opposite, stayed walking about from 4 till 6.30 when I returned home to dinner. Saw Miss Nevill there with two young girls. I walked first through Victorian and New South Wales Courts and round by the Dunedin Court, looked at the Maori exhibition. Much interesting in the prints of an early day, the engagement of the 50th and 99th Regiments, also a likeness of Captain Stokes, once of H.M.S. “Beagle,” who surveyed a great portion of the New Zealand coast. Saw the Butter working going on, ail pictures of New South Wales Court. One of Lord Carrington, The Bust of Judge Fawcett, Sir J, Robertson which I had subscribed to be executed by Simmetti, Sir Partrick Jennings etc. The oil paintings as a whole were perfect daubs, and did no credit to New South Wales. The water colours were better, so also in the Victorian Courts.
The photographs of the Government Printing Office were well placed and well executed. Specimens of the Bulletin Newspaper were also given, especially good was Sir Allen Stuart represented with having no back bone in his composition. There was a small compartment entirely devoted to the Bulletin, and great curiosity was displayed by crowd looking admiringly at the Cartoons. There was also a French Court, very tawdry and unattractive. Saw “Oscar Meyer’s right hand man who informed me that card of invitation to Mrs Oscar Meyer “At Home” on Thursday had been sent us for it, and that they had been sent to the wrong address.
Saw Sheikh Bardoodeen (Bardrodeen?) at Exhibition.
Thursday 23rd January 1890
After lunch, and after a passing shower, Grace ordered a close carriage to take us out to pay a visit to the Bishop of Dunedin and Mrs Nevill, about 3 miles away. Cecil accompanied us there. Yorke had gone before to lunch. We found them all very polite, and the Bishop told me he was an old acquaintance of Mrs Arthur Marsh of Linley Wood in former days he lived only 4 miles from away from “Talk o’ t’ Hill” when Vicar of
“Shelley??” and said he used to have many political discussion with Mrs Arthur Marsh. There were several Clergymen there, being the Bishop’s Reception day. One, a Canon Vance of South Australia, the other a Mr Otway of Christchurch. The drive to the Bishop’s was very pretty. His own property, the house he built himself surrounded with pretty shrubs and trees protected by hills at the back from the cold winds prevalent in New Zealand. The house is built after the fashion of old Cheshire houses, brick and wood. We found the niece, Miss Nevill doing the honors of the Afternoon Tea Table, several other Ladies were with her, one young girl remarkably pretty and attractive, with Miss Nevill a Miss McIver or McIntosh, just come to stay with Mrs Nevill, she is some relation of Mr Waton of Sydney, who was formerly Colonial Treasurer and whose sister is now staying with them. We were under two hours in going and returning and paid the driver 18/- for the trip.
As we drove to the Bishop’s we passed a very pretty running stream or brook, in which I was informed anglers fished for the English trout, which now abound at certain times, and when the stream is deeper than at present. The Bishop is said to be a well informed cleaver man, but wanting in that dignity which a Bishop (the Bishop Bates) possessed in an eminent degree.
Friday 24th January 1890
My birthday today, 71 years old.
Thermometer 65°. A heavy shower of rain ell today, about 12.
Yorke purchased yesterday a most interesting book by Carl Lumholtz, a German scientist, travels in Australia amongst the Blacks, called “Among Cannibals” only just published in 1890 by John Murray, Albermarle St, and only 15/- price.
Grace and Cecil went to the Exhibition after lunch and after the rain discontinued. Met Mrs and Miss Norton (of Double Bay) in Prince St. They leave tomorrow for the North, they have just been making at Tour of Lake Waikatapu (Wakatipu?)
Saturday 25th January 1890
Beautiful day, did not get up till 12. Yorke busy in preparing feast for 200 Sunday School Children at the top of the hill, Roslyn. I took a tram and went to Bookseller named Horsburgh where I purchased views of Dunedin. Mr and Mrs and Miss Norton left by Express for Christchurch this morning. Bought some beautiful strawberries at 1/6 per bk.
Sunday 26th January 1890
Beautiful day, Thermometer 68°. All the people, the girls dressed in summer costumes but wore my Great Coat, went to St Matthew’s Church with Grace, Yorke performed Service, good congregation, Yorke’s sermon from St. Matthew, taken from the text “condemnatory of those who call their brothers fools” and on cruel(?) speaking generally. Bridge or Stanley the Churchwardens held the plates, the latter lately elected People’s Churchwarden.
Monday 27th January 1890
Anniversary of the Colony of New South Wales.
Yorke had at 11am to see Lord Vinton who leaves by rail for Invercargill. They were old school fellows years ago. At 2.30 we, Grace Yorke and Cecil, went for a drive round the hills at the back by the “Queens Drive” round by Roslyn, very pretty drive, and pretty gardens with English gorse(?) hedges, and the point. The Clergyman of this parish, lately here was a Rev Mr Kirkham, just left for England, his wife turned Roman Catholic, and he got into rather dis-esteem, and the people would not subscribe for his salary. On return called at the Union Steam Company’s office and saw Mr Houton, Assistant Manager, who promises to reserve a cabin for us on the 12th February next, by the “Rotorua” which sails for Auckland that day. Saw also, the brother of the Chief Manager, Mr Mills on whom I left my card in his absence at the “Sound Tour.” Afterwards went to the Dunedin Club but saw no one there I knew. Walked home, and tired myself. In the evening after tea, Bridges, the cousin of Captain Bridges, formerly of H.M.S. “Wolverine,” paid a visit of some hours. He is new Yorkes, the Clergyman’s, Churchwarden (having?) without been the people’s Churchwarden of “St. Matthews.”
Tuesday 28th January 1890
At 12 o’clock Miss Neville called on Cis, came in for a few minutes only, as she had a young friend (a Miss McCallum) waiting in her carriage for her. Going to call on a Mrs (Aclfon?)
Thermometer 69° and very dusty. The Rev Mr and Mrs Purchass lunched with the Yorkes, they arrived in Dunedin yesterday evening, he is one of the Clergymen resident at Christchurch, and has come here for a short holiday. His wife is the grand-daughter of the Bishop of Christchurch, who retires in March being near 86 years old. His name Harper, and is the present Primate.
In the evening the Yorkes had two persons to dinner, the Rev Canon Vence of Kew, Melbourne, and a Dr Alexander of (Damank? Dunedin?) one of the Doctors of the Private Lunatic Asylum here, and in the evening Mrs Chamberlain. And her cousin just arrived from England, a Mr Whitford came. She lives at Malvern near Worcester and has heard of the Crofton’s and their daughter Mrs Isaac of Boughton Hall. Had a letter from Gracie of the 17th.
Wednesday 29th January 1890
A beautiful day, Thermometer 70° in the morning, yet feeling cool. Went with Grace to the Exhibition after lunch, and inspected the “Art Gallery,” including the British section of oils and water colour pictures, several lent from the Sydney Gallery. Some pretty good in one of the best was “Mr Cook” by Chevalier, the best I ever saw of his, a portrait of H.G. Mark (Mack?), R.A. by Pules R.A., beautifully executed, “Crossing the Torrent” attractive pictures by C.S. Perugini valued at £500, Alfred Tennyson by G.E.Watts R.A. The Spirit of Christianity by Ernest Crofts(?) A.R.A. a dreadful daub, and horrible conception. Sir Richard Burton, the celebrated Traveller and author by Sir Fed Leighton P.R.A., the best piece of painting I ever saw of his. “Alpine Mastiff” by Landseer, the most uninteresting of any of his pictures: “Pharoah’s Daughter” by Long R.A. valued at £2100; like all his work the figures and skin faithfully printed; though not equal to those we saw in his gallery in Bond St. The “Choice of Zaceries,” etc “Prince Albert” by Winterhaller, a very uninteresting sketch of him in his uniform of the Rifle Brigade. “There is Life in the Old Dog Yet,” leant by A.A. Society (Sydney) very expressive, valued at 30. “The First of May” after Winterhaller, the visit of the late Duke of Wellington on his 82nd birthday to his Godson Prince Arthur, the Queen holding him in her arms with Prince Albert in the back ground, interesting to me from the fact of this picture being that of the late Duke of Wellington somewhat like our friend at Manly, Henry Shadforth (now 86) formerly of H.M. 57th Regiment. It does not say who the artist is, but not of much repute I should imagine. The Art Gallery, Sydney lent the picture of “Confidence,” an old man walking with a young girl, in the snow, valued at £200. “The Coronation of H.M. the Queen” by Sir George Hayter R.A., interested me much as a memory of “bye gone days” and the fashion of the days, particularly in the way Ladies dressed their hair in looped up bows, and the Arch Bishops of Armagh and York wearing their wigs. This was exhibited by Graves & Co of London and this was the first public ceremonial of H.M. reign. At Westminster Abbey, crowned in the Chair of Edward the Confessor, in which all Kings have been crowned from that day to this. Lord Melbourne is represented as holding the Sword of State and behind him is the Queen’s Mother, the Duchess of Kent. Nearer to the Alter the Duke of Wellington, Lord High Constable of England, and the present Duke of Cambridge, the former Prince George of Cambridge in the uniform of the Hussars.
There were 5 rooms devoted to the Exhibition of British paintings. The 6th room to Colonial Oil Paintings, the best of which as I have already said was “Lake Pakahe” and “Molint Cask(?)” in early morning by Chevalier. We left at 5.30 and the weather became clouded and dusty with a cold South West wind, which brought on heavy rain after we got home. We met Captain Wheeler of the Steamer “Waikatapu” walking about with two lady friends. He tells us he sails for Sydney tomorrow. On first entering the Exhibition we caught sight of “Joubert” at the entrance of the building (sitting, reclining?) in a Bath Chair, without his had on, looking like an invalid. I went up to ask him what was the matter, and in a very curt way he replied “I am doing what you are, resting here on a bench.” I therefore left him to his apparently disagreeable humour. I disliked him 40 years ago when I first knew him and I dislike him now. Anything but a gentleman, only a French Pardeur, if there is such a thing.
Thursday 30 January 1890
Thermometer 67°, the rain last night has cooled the atmosphere. Grace busy at work making a new dressing gown. After lunch Grace, Cissy and I went in a tram to a place called St.Clair (3 miles away) facing the ocean, a sort of fashionable bathing place, putting one in mind of Manly Beach, a stormy wind blowing. The way out very passing through roads having hawthorne and gorse hedges on either side. It took us about half an hour going there. We passed through the parish of Caversham, pretty little village backed by high undulated hills, well grassed. A Mr Christie Murray from England gave a lecture at the Exhibition building the evening on the benefit of the “Scrooge Club.” Yorke and Cissy went to it, the subject was “the way to make a Novel,’ it was after 10 before they returned home.
(Sent ?) picture paper of “Dunedin” to Levien, Milly by Ella Rhodes, postage 1d a book parcel.
Friday 31st January 1890
A cloudy, cold and windy day, looking like rain. Thermometer 64°. A Miss Howard lunched here, her sister, Mrs Hardman, was to have come too, but is laid up with bronchitis, Miss Howard an old maid but appears Ladylike, and agreeable, they come from Adelaide, South Australia, and propose going on to Auckland and the Hotsprings in that direction. Grace and Cissy went by train to call upon Mrs Neal, living at Normanby, she formerly a Miss Fyans, daughter of an old Melbourne celebrity, Captain F Fyans and sister of Mrs Cortis, Dr Cortis’ wife of Sydney (North Shore). The wind and dust were so high I did not like venturing out in the tram. They returned about 5.30, and seemed to have enjoyed themselves, Mrs James, wife of Dr James of Melbourne (who came out with us in the “Carthage”) is staying with Mrs Neill and proposes to call upon us on Monday. A fire took place near the Church and school room owing to lighting a fire with sulfish to heat water, in the morning.
Saturday 1st February 1890
Thermometer 64°. Beautiful day. Went out at 11 o’clock, called at the Bank of New Zealand, cashed a cheque for £1. Went to the Union Steam Company, saw Mr Houghton who promised on the part of the Company to extend my ticket of 3 months, for a month longer if I wished it. Returned to lunch at 1pm and at 3pm went in tram to North Dunedin, and with Mrs Chamberlain to the Lawn Tennis club, a great number of girls and young men playing: one a Miss Hitchens who has only one arm, the left, and plays well with it, and seems to court being looked upon by everyone as regards her deformity, we remained till 5, and during the while Miss Gillies and her cousin appeared on the scene: also our other fellow passenger Miss Mcfarlane, who seems an indefatigable player. I did not recognize her till Miss Gillies pointed her out.
Sunday 2nd February 1890
Went to Church in the morning with Grace and Cissy. Yorke performed the Service, text from St Matthew out of the Gospel of the day “many called, few chosen.” Saw the Rev Mr Purchase in Church, also a Reverend Mr Winter whose wife appeared holding an opera Glass staring at Yorke. Wilkins, Milly’s friend, was also there with his wife.
In the evening a Mr Roger Dixon of Melbourne, a Solicitor, came to have a smoke with Yorke after Church, and a Mr Coatly of Christchurch, Curator of Museum came to supper after Church.
I went in a Mornington tram to have a peep at the beautiful view from thence, on the top of the Range, and returned again and went in another tram as far as “Know” Church, a very pretty Presbyterian Church covered with ivy. Went again to Evening Church with Grace at 6.30. The text taken from one of the Psalms of David, from which Yorke expounded, “What a true gentleman was.”
Monday 3rd February 1890
Thermometer 69° in the morning, beautiful day. Grace went to early Church at 9 to St. Matthews and knocked herself up thereby. Received Dr Colquhoun’s Bill for medical attendance, £3.3 and sent him cheques in reply.
Went out after lunch, and met Miss Nevill in a tram, just having had her photograph taken somewhere. Miss Mcfarlane (Mrs Row’s friend and fellow passenger) was also in the same tram.
At 2.30 Grace and the Yorkes went with Mr Rae Dixon (of Melbourne) for a long drive, to a place called “Portobello” in direction of Port Chalmers, they came home at 6.30 in raptures with the views they had there on the road. The weather became very cloudy and cold just as they returned, and heavy rain fell for some hours afterwards. They drove very near to Larnach Castle a house on the hill, within sight of the house, in the distance.
Tuesday 4th February 1890
Fine day, but very cold wind.Thermometer 63°. Went to the Club and spoke to the House Secretary Mr Cargill, about extension of time. Met the Rev Mr Purchase in tram going to George St. His wife passing the day with the Yorkes. Purchased two plants for Cis, the Daphne, and Gardenia 4-th 2.
Miss Nevill came to dinner and slept here, expecting some relations by the Steamer, though she went to the Exhibition with Mrs Chamberlain, and did not return here till late, after 10 o’clock. Sent picture of Dunedin by post to Wise, Mr Morris, Miss Marsh Caldwell, and a picture of Exhibition Building to Milly.
Wednesday 5th February 1890
Fine day, very much warmer than yesterday. Thermometer 69°. Miss Nevill left after breakfast. Heard from Milly and Wise. Sent cheque for 4.3.9 to Milly to pay for Quarter Schooling for Jack, to repay Wise for (the Ivan?).
Bertie Morris lunched here today. Grace wrote to Wise and Milly, directed to St. Leonards. Bertie Morris, he has been upwards of a fortnight here, and did not think we were here but had gone away. He left after lunch, to see some friends off by rail to Christchurch. Grace and Cissy went to Mrs Colquhoun’s afternoon Tea. I called on Mr and Mrs Twopenny, and spent a couple of hours talking with them, he very anxious to know who and what Mr McMillan (The New South Wales Colonial Treasure) is.
Thursday 6th February 1890
Cis very unwell from sore throat, obliged to keep in bed till after breakfast. Thermometer 69°. At 4 o’clock Cis had several visitors to afternoon tea, first came Mrs Neil, sister of Mrs Cortis of North (House?), daughter of late Captain Foster Fyans, a Melbourne celebrity some years ago, and with her came her married daughter (a Mrs Bridgeman) another sister Miss Hall, a nice looking girl and a Melbourne friend of hers, a Miss Boyd, daughter of a Captain Boyd and Mrs James, wife of Dr James of Melbourne who were our fellow passengers from England by the “Carthage.” Mrs Neil is married to an evidently well to do man, has a very nice house at “Normanby” and drives her carriage and four, is longing to return to England and appears as comfortable in every way as Mrs Cortis appears uncomfortable in her home in Sydney. Then came the two sisters Mrs Hardman of Adelaide (just out of the Doctor’s hands) and Miss Howard who intend going some weeks hence to Auckland for the benefit of health. And next was Mrs Frere (wife of a Clergyman residing some four miles away. They came from the Cape 10 years ago, and since they came, he has been ordained a clergyman of the Diocese. Heard the Captain Hector, formerly Captain of the Steamer “Carthage” is now with his newly married wife in New Zealand and they have gone to the “Sounds” having given up his ship and is out of the P&O Company Service. Dr James, his wife told me, has gone wih Mr Neal Fly fishing for trout, somewhere in or out of the District.
Friday 8th February 1890
Fine day, Thermometer 69°.
Bertie Morris lunched here and also a Mr Stanley who is Yorke’s, or rather the People’s Churchwarden, he is a man I do not care about, passed himself off to me as having come from England only 12 months ago, whereas he has been in Dunedin for years, only went home for a trip of 9 months, but poses about as a young English man. Bertie Morris returns this afternoon in the “Tarawera” to Sydney. At 3.30 Grace, Cissy and I went upon the tram to Mornington to a Lawn Tennis party at Mrs Rattray’s on the top of the Hill. A very strong hot wind came on, the dust blowing all over us. Cissy, on the way, went to call on a Mrs Webb where we called for her, waiting till the tram came up. The wind was so hot, and the weather looking so like a storm coming on we thought of returning (without?) delay, however, we did not, and went on to Mrs Rattray’s domain where we found two lawn tennis courts going on. Those whose names I heard were a Mrs Dymock, Mrs Gilman, a young pretty looking woman apparently about 20, with a son 17 years old. Mrs Stock, a sister, nice person, Miss McCulloch (Miss Nevill’s friend) and Mrs Maitland, lately been in England and who met Mrs Stevin there. A Miss (Twolon?) several Miss Rattrays.
On our return home at 5.30, Cis found that Mrs Neill (nee Fyan) had sent her a present of some fine trout, just caught. Felt very unwell all day owing possibly to the depressing day and the hot wind we had. Yorke came up to the Rattrays after us and we returned with him together.
Great complaint of the poisoning of food in Dunedin from a manufactory of some sort!
Saturday 9th February 1890
Cis’s cold still worrying her, did not get up till after breakfast.
Thermometer 68°. Only went out to lunch with Mr and Mrs Twopenny, being near this, in (High?) St. Went up in a tram which took us far beyond their house as the guard did not like stopping on a (steep road?), being a cable tam. In the tram we met Mrs Stock and Mrs Gilman who we knew. WE met at the Twopennys at lunch Judge Williams. Grace and I left at 4 o’clock and Cis and Mrs Twopenny were going to a Mrs “Round Renach?) afternoon tea. Yorke was to join her afterwards there. A very cool breeze blowing, and somewhat dusty, though not as bad as yesterday. Judge Williams is one of the Judges of the Supreme Court of New Zealand.
The Trout sent us by Mrs Neil very fine, measured at 2 feet in length, but rather of a muddy taste.
Sunday 9th February 1890
A beautiful day, Thermometer 69°. Went with Grace to Church in the morning and evening, Yorke performed service in the morning, and preached “on human nature,” for the evening the subject of “The Prodigal son,” extraordinary tone intonation and voice, his putting on a sort of falsetto voice, and giving me the idea he was in the act of crying, or in deep lamentation; a sort of piteous irishman’s howl of a wake. Cecil was not able to go to Church in the evening.
The organist Mr Gibbs came to supper after Church, he has something to do with the Colonial Mutual Society, and says the A.M.P. Society made a great mistake in withdrawing the plan of business for insuring persons in England for £10,000 Policies. I do not think so, a man who was lately insured in the Equitable Society of New York committed suicide to benefit his widow and children, who are badly off, but now are to get £1700. I shall be glad to hear if they reimburse the widow, Mrs Ashcroft, or delay paying the Insurance money some time to come or not until it goes before the Head Office at New York.
Monday 10th February 1890
Beautiful day, warm in the sun, cool in the shade, nearly 70°, hot in the evening, upwards of 75° (when the gas was lighted). Grace and Cis went to return visits to a Mrs Turton, Mrs Fenwick and the Bathgates.
Left my umbrella to be repaired at a man named Martinelli in the arcade. Went up Prince St, near Exhibition, round Walker St, then Club and boot repairers, then home.
Tuesday 11th February 1890
Cloudy day, with sprinkling rain during part of the day, till 4 o’clock. Thermometer 66°.Grace and Cecil went out after lunch for a few hours, notwithstanding the look of the weather, went to the booksellers, Horssurgh(?) and ordered a copy of Tennyson’s last poem.
In the evening Rev Donaldson dined here, and afterwards went with Yorke to a meeting having reference to a Synnodised Commission, and he returned from thence with a Rev D Belcher, who is Head Master of the High School, he is lately from Sydney, and was taken about the Harbour by Dills in his steam yacht, he had a rough time of it at sea, coming here in the “Waihora,” he went in to Yorke’s room and they had their smoke together and we saw him no more.
I did not go out all day for fear of the rain, which did not come after all!
Wednesday 12th February 1890
Cloudy but beautiful day, Thermometer 61°. Grace and Cecil went out to call on various persons. Met Dr James as I was walking in Princes Street. I went to the Union Steam Company Office and got my return ticket extended from 3 months to the end of April, saw both Mr Houghton and the Managing Partner Mr Mills, the Senior of the Company not having yet returned but expected. The Bishop’s wife (with her niece Miss Nevill) called here whilst Grace was out, also Mr Neil who brought Cecil a present of gapes, oranges and plums, also Mrs Gillies and Miss M. Gillies her niece, our fellow passenger from Sydney, she is, I find the niece, not daughter of the late Judge Gillies and they live at a very nice place called “Transit House.” I had our name put down as passengers to go on Wednesday 26th February by “Tarawera” for Auckland. In the evening Cecil had a Tea Party consisting of Mr, Mrs Stock, her sister Mrs Gilmour and son, Mr, Mrs Twopenny, Miss Hentslet, Mr and Mrs Austin. I played Whist with the Stocks and Mr Gilmour who goes away tomorrow to Christchurch by the 11.30 train.
Thursday 13th February 1890
Fine day, Thermometer 63° in the morning. Had a letter from Marie who is still at “Morts” near Picton. Chris was to sail in the “Patriach’ a sailing vessel, for England on Sunday. Went out in the afternoon and the first person I met was Forbes Angus of Sydney, who arrived yesterday with his wife and Miss J.A. Joseph, he has been in Auckland and is going to be here six weeks before returning home. We walked together to the Club and after a little while returned in a tram. He went yb the Grant hotel where he is staying, took a Mornington Cable Tram for the view. I went in another to George St up Princes Street, saw Twopenny as I walked home and met Miss Gillies walking, and the Miss Greville who was on her way to Bishops—where she intended walking to. Forbes-Angus a proud one that, he was again put up (for the second time) for election at he Australia Club and again Blockballed, proposed by Henry Mort, and seconded by Dr Macella. He is very sore about it, and one of the reasons that brought him to New Zealand was the annoyance of his disappointment at it. He seems to think the two Chapmans at the Club make a point of Blackballing every one although he is not sure but has the suspicion only.
I went to see the sight of a woman “Inana” as she is called, floating mid-air , as gracefully having rolled around in a circle. It looks as though she was suspended by an invisible wire, out of sight it is by reflecting in looking glasses that evokes the deception. Grace and Cissy went to tea at St Clair Mrs Hardman’s and Miss Howard and her elder – Mrs Abraham(?).
Friday 14th February 1890
Beautiful fay, warm sun, beautiful cool breeze. Did not go out till after lunch. Thermometer 65°. Grace and I went to the Grand Hotel to call on Mr Forbes-Angus, and her sister Mrs P.A. Joseph. They were preparing to go out, but did not keep us long waiting, not more than 5 minutes. Glad to see us apparently. In the Drawing Room to which we were ushered were two other young Ladies, one at the piano singing, the other writing letters in order to be posted. It appeared to me that there was a room common to all residents at the Hotel, indeed I heard that owing to the Exhibition, (being very full) all their private sitting rooms had been turned into bedrooms. Miss Joseph told me that her father had been resident in New Zealand, 50 years ago, and spoke the Maori language perfectly. Grace felt the walking much, and we returned home. Called first at the (Copper--?) Store, D.J.C., at the jewelers, Hyams, who showed us a beautiful diamond ring which McKillan had offered £68 for, but he wanted £70.
Saturday 15th February 1890
Perfect weather in the morning. Bright sunshine and cool breeze but changed to a (warm?) dust that prevented going out. Thermometer 65°, but several things have struck me in New Zealand which bears most favorably in comparison with that of Sydney. The horses are all in good condition and very shapely, numbers of well made Cabs which cannot be got in Sydney. Must longer in their rein. Something like what we used to have in Sydney 50 years ago, and nearly all the horses, even in the trams, well bred, and light stepping with good action. The other thing is the fruit in the many shops plentiful and cheap, mostly imported from Hobart, as the railway freight here is so heavy as to prevent the growers sending what they do grow in the country in to town. Another remarkable but very objectionable thing we see, when we walk about is the bad figures of the women, large bony women with immense feet and legs so thick and unshapely as to speaking of them as fat bullocks, “Beef down to the heels!”
Mrs Chamberlain called last night at 8 o’clock on way to Exhibition. She is Secretary to the “(Dores?) Society” where Cis was this afternoon, and she came to arrange something with Cissy Friday next. She asked us to go to the Tennis Tournament tomorrow at North Dunedin. Received a paper yesterday from Sydney, the “Daily Telegraph” with Morris’ speech on “Federation,” the address on paper looking like Mr Morris’ handwriting. Morris’ speech well written and commands itself to my view on the matters entirely. After lunch today Grace, Yorke and myself went to the Exhibition to hear the Concert, which every Saturday is given free, the Concert room built purposely for the Entertainments of the kind was not full, there were upwards of 24 performers, 2 of whom playing on the violin were girls, one about 25, the other only 12 or 14 years of age. The principal musical pieces were selections from “Patience,” a March, a Garotte (Gadotte?) overture by Trecoise, by Weber, and a Waltz by Bonheur. It commenced at 3 and finished at 4 and we afterwards strolled about the Building and were much interested in the Kauri Timber, and the girth of one particular tree measured 8 feet 8 inches in diameter. We were shown the figure head of the “Resolution,” Captain Cook’s profile, in the first vessel he sailed on his discoveries, she was originally an old (collier?) and this interested curiosity belonging to the Sydney Museum, and lent only to the New Zealand Exhibition, we then proceeded to the Maori Court and again examined the early specimens of their race and passed the Ferney Courts for the first time. Then to the Fishermen, where the different fish, in large glass tanks which could be seen through, were exhibited and theree as the trout, salmon, carp, tench, etc. but they didn’t appear pretty, possibly owing to the dirty water they were swimming about in, there was a dead specimen of a Sunfish of the kind I had not seen the like before! We further visited the pictures and photographs in the Victoria Court, the flowers painted by Rowan, as usual were beautiful and many of the other paintings by Victorian painters. At dinner time Miss Nevill suddenly made her appearance having arranged with Mrs Chamberlain to go the Concert in the Exhibition tonight. She is to sleep here, on her return tonight. I promised to take two tickets for the concert in aid of the Bishop’s orphanage. Rev Mr Frere joined Yorke, he is nephew of the Professor of Cambridge whim I know there.
Sunday 16th February 1890
Thermometer 70° all day. Miss Nevill slept here last night and went with Grace and myself to the morning to Church, she dined here and left at 5, intending to go to St. Pauls Church, and return afterwards to the Brishop’s with her aunt in the carriage and if that did not come to walk home! In the evening Grace and I went to St Matthews, Yorke performed service. In the morning he addressed the congregation without preaching from any given text, but merely remarked of people (forced?) to attend to the (ruinous, crimson?) “rules of devotion,” they would form perfectly neglect attending to the ordinary (forms like?) of their design, such as kneeling and partaking of the communion. The Rev Jasper Smith, a taller man than Yorke, (an Irishman of Trinity College, Dublin) from Christchurch read the Lesson, whose voice, a most objectionable one, grated on me when he came to Supper and left at about 10 in a pour of rain. Yorke preached from 3 Genesis, “Eating the forbidden fruit in the Garden of Eden,” and (result?) Eve’s disobedience thereby.
Monday 17th February 1890
On first getting up, discovered it had been raining a good deal, Thermometer 70°. Cleared for a few hours, and heavy rain came on at 3. Took a tram to escape it, and went as far as King St, and then to the Museum in that street, with which I was much interested, the first subjects that came to one’s view in entering were the stuffed seals of various kinds, then skeletons of Whales, the Giraffe, and Lion, Tiger, Leopard, Penguin and dogs. Specimens of English fox and wolf, a Russian dog, Rhinoceros, with skin on, head of Bison, American Ant Eaters, Canadian Elk, lot of Monkeys stuffed, and skeleton of an Ourangoutang, an immense blue shark, caught in Otago, 30 feet long, skeletons of Emus, Ostriches, and Cassowary, all in juxtaposition: Kangaroos and Wallaby’s and amongst other -- -- a wonderful copy of an old Engraving of “London, Westminster and South Bank” with the old London Bridge from an original picture painted in 1560, and a great many other curiosities which interested me much, particularly the war implements from New Guinea, did not leave till after 4. Returned in a tram and so escaped the rain, in getting on the tram met Mrs Wilkins who stopped me, in Princes St and told me her husband had come to Dunedin, “to take Oscar Mayer’s place” in the New South Wales Court at the Exhibition, that he, Oscar Mayer had gone to Sydney on Saturday and would not return for three weeks, all which time, Mr Wilkins would remain in Dunedin that they were staying at Mrs Oscar Mayers house, where the Yorkes used to live, and that Mr Wilkins had not been so well as on first arrival in New Zealand. Cecil was paying a visit to the “Joachims” and others but escaped wet in the evening. Miss Ashcroft came, a fine looking girl, who once 9 months resideing in Clifton near Bristol. And after her a Mrs and Mrs Williams and their two nieces a Miss Pearce (Perrie?) who thought that Cis has asked them to tea tonight instead it told them it was tomorrow evening.
Tuesday 18th February 1890
Colder day, with wind, Thermometer 66°. At 1 o’clock went out first to the Exhibition, called on Wilkins at the New South Wales Court, where he is acting in the place of Oscar Mayer who went to Sydney on Saturday. He was not there at first, having gone to lunch and would not be back till 2.30, so I walked about in the mean time, going in to what they call “The Lenolan Cave” with which I was much disappointed, by no possibility I should think, of giving the smallest idea of the original caves in question! It was more like an inferior “Penny Peep Show” in which you were jostled about by the vulgar crowd who, like oneself, were foolish enough to desire to look at the caves for mere curiosity. Went at 2.30 and found Wilkins had returned from his lunch. He looks jaded and does not seem to think that Dunedin agrees with him, finds it cold and complains of indigestion. Stayed talking with him till 5, when a Mr Nicholls connected with the P.M. (Herald?) Chambers came in, and took me to his Court, where he showed mme an original copy of the Times Newspapers, with the leading article on the battle of Waterloo, which refers to Napoleon’s defeat and as to being the “Arch Rebel.” Then left and went over to the Club, and was told by one of the Committee, that as I had so little of the Club, only a little more than six weeks, that it would not be necessary to be further put up as an Honorary Member, especially as I proposed leaving Dunedin on Wednesday the 26th. He took my card with the view of getting me elected as an Honorary Member of the (Mother Makes?)Auckland Club In the evening a Mr and Mrs Jackson and her sister (an old maid) Miss Wimpress, an artist dined here, very common place people.
Wednesday 19th February 1890
Ash Wednesday. Heard from Wise, his letter dated the 9th telling us Milly and wife had left for St Leonards the day before, and that his, (Wise’s) two houses were advertised for sale.
Grace went to Church at 9.30 at Yorke’s St Matthews, not more than ½ dozen people present. The fst is that today being a proclaimed holiday they have “Races” going on which will draw off thousands of people, at a place called Caversham.
Yorke had Evening Church at 7.30. A Clergyman and his wife Mr and Mrs (Garbett?) also arrived yesterday from the Christchurch Diocese, came to supper afterwards, strange to say they (knew) Mr and Mrs Phineas Roberts (Charlotte Hyeronomus(?)). Exhibition open all day and a concert of 400 performers at night at which a Mr Angus sang.
Thursday 20th February 1890
Thermometer 63°. Beautiful day. Posted 7 letters for Sydney, 2 to Wise, 1 to George Pinnock, 1 to Mrs Garvin, 1 to (Mone?), 1 to Lady Mannng, 1 to Milly.
Sent illustrated New Zealand paper to Gracie, and a Melbourne one to Ella Rhodes, England. The Rev Mr and Mrs Garbett, lunched here with the intention of going with us to call on the Bishop, but owing to the Races going on, no close carriage could be obtained and Grace and Cecil went instead with them by the Mornington Tram to look at the scenery from the top of the hill.
Saw the Bishop at Post Office, buying stamps, and Miss S.A. Joseph came to post a letter for Sydney. A Mrs Wood, rather irate with Yorke not having (as she said) the Church doors open at 9, for early service. Wrote to Wise in answer to his letter of the 9th as to the furniture at Ocean View.
Yorke went to dine at Dr (dinmber?) the brother of the Police Magistrate at Goulburn, I was asked but did not go.
Friday 21st February 1890
Thermometer 64°. Foggy morning, turned out a beautiful day. Purchased 8 Illustrated New Zealand Newspapers, Went to “Union Steam Company” and found that the S. “Tarawera,” well not arrive here before Tuesday, and I cannot therefore find out which cabin they are going to allot us, but that the ship sails from Port Chalmers, and we shall have to go there fro hence by railway at 2.30. In afternoon Grace and I went to “Normanby” by trams to call, or rather, to return Mrs Neil’s visit to us, this being “her day at home.”
We found only 2 or 3 people there, but we were charmed with the place, the shrubberies and lawn perfect and the carriage winding there to the house well planned in a sort of circuit, having to cross two ornamental bridges over it, beautiful shrubs ornamenting the pleasure grounds and a bubbly book running through the garden, and English looking bush, which as Tennyson say “goes on for ever.” I admired in the plantation the old English yew with its bright red flowers which seems to thrive well, the other flowers that bordered the drive were Pinks, Holly, Oaks, China Astas, Gladiola, and many other English flowers, hedges of Holly with both plain and variegated leaf and a Greenhouse full of nearly ripe Grapes hanging temptingly inside. Dr and Mrs James had left the Neils, but Miss Boyd of Melbourne was still there. We saw the pretty daughter “Gertie” quite a Belle and very polite, just introduced in the latest Garden Ball. They gave us a beautiful Bouquet of Sweet Peas, to take home. Met Mrs Forbes-Angus, and Miss S.A. Joseph in Princes St on our return by the tram.
Saturday 22nd February 1890
Thermometer 64°. Miss Nevill left after breakfast. Cecil not well, did not get up to breakfast. Very foggy, windy and dusty day till afternoon when the sun came out, though still cold. Walked to Horsbrugh (the Booksellers) and back. The third and last day of the Races at Caversham.
Grace with Cis called on the Mrs Oscar Mayer and Mrs Wilkins where she is staying.
Sent three illustrated New Zealand Newspapers to Wise, Levien, and Hudson.
Sunday 23rd February 1890
Thermometer 63°. Cloudy morning but became sunshiny at 11. Grace and I went to Church and sat in an uncomfortable pew without cushions or hassocks. Yorke preached upon the “Pool of Bethsaida,” the half the time and then the blind as waiting to be helped in and no one at hand, contrasting the state of some of the parishioners to this and only the congregation to assist him in his endeavours as a Clergyman to offer them the assistance they required. At lunch Mr and Mrs Grisson came. They live at Christchurch, he is a Solicitor there, an son of Judge Grisson. In afternoon went to the Club, and left my P.P. card on the Committee, and wrote a note to Hudson.
In the evening went to Church, Yorke preached on the temptation of Christ and is fasting 40 days. The Bishop of Dunedin and one of his nieces in Church, which was full, especially afterwards.
Monday 24th February 1890
Posted letter to Hudson. Very dusty at 10 o’clock, high wind and cloudy looking like rain.
A Mr Maude, a friend of Yorke’s came to lunch, he comes from Christchurch. Raining off and on in afternoon. Mr Maude is a Solicitor and son-in-law of the Bishop of Christchurch (Harper) and has been foremost in proposing to Yorke to leave Dunedin and enter the Christchurch Diocese, where he will get better income, and a parsonage and promotion hereafter, as one of the Canons of the Cathedral, to which a salary of another £100 a year is attached. In the evening Grace and Cecil went to a Concert at the Exhibition, and Yorke had a small meeting of Parishioners, to form a Guild. Bridge, the Churchwarden, was present and the pretty Miss Ashcroft, who before she went to the meeting, sat in the Drawing Room talking with me. I forgot to mention that in Dunedin that the two professions of Barrister and Solicitor are amalgamated, and presented together.
Tuesday 25th February 1890
Thermometer 63°, in afternoon 66°. Fine day.
Did not feel well, pain in side and bad rheumatism.
Sent Illustrated New Zealand papers to
1 Mrs Morris, 1 Lady Manning, 1.Miss Mary Baxter, 1 Mrs Duke Crofton, 1 Miss Alleyne. Also 1 Miss Addison, 1 Captain Fisher, 1 C Goodrige.
Called at Union Steam Company’s office and was told that Cabin 41to 44 had been allotted me on the “Tarawera” which sails tomorrow from Port Chalmers at 3 o’clock.
Went to the New Zealand Bank and got £24.19.9 transferred to Auckland Branch and got £18.14 in sovereigns.
Had my hair cut as (Major Razor, Sharpan?) at Price’s, under Grand Hotel. Mrs Oscar Mayer and Mrs Wilkins returned Grace’s visit of last week. Called again at Bank of New Zealand. Miss Nevill called in afternoon to say “good bye” as did Mrs Oscar Mayer and Mrs Wilkins called on Grace.
Wednesday 26th February 1890
Thermometer at 9 o’clock 64°. Self unwell and headachy. Beautiful day. Grace and I busy packing ones boxes, I had an early lunch, Yorke went out immediately after and brought up an Express Wagon for our boxes, to the Railway Station 3/- a Waggonette for ourselves and the Yorkes 3/6. We left Dunedin by train at 2.30 and reached Port Chalmers by 3. Yorke and Cecil accompanied us, just before leaving Miss Nevill came to day good bye to us on the train, and I then gave her Lord Tennyson’s Last Poem, “Demeter.” Far to Port Chalmers 1/6 each. On getting out of the train we walked to the Steamer “Tarawera” at the wharf in which I had taken a week ago, our passage to Auckland, Yorke remained at the trucks in which our luggage was brought down and had it placed on the wharf alongside, on my going on board, I found to my surprise that I could not have the cabin to ourselves, except for one night, as in the manifest was written that I was only to have the cabin to ourselves if said cabin was available. I spoke to the Chief Steward, who said he had his orders from the Chief Office, and that though I might have the cabin to myself as for as Lyttleton, but that afterwards I must take my change whether it was wanted. Upon this I told him if I could not get the accommodation I had agreed and arranged for I would take my luggage back to Dunedin, and not go in her; not getting any satisfaction from the Chief Steward, but gross insolence, I went to the Captain, he evidently wished to support his Chief Steward and told me that the Steward had to obey his instructions of the Head Office and I therefore said I must return to Dunedin with my luggage --, but just as I was going away he spoke to a Captain Cameron, Marine Surveyor, or ship’s (surveyor?) and had a long conversation and with him – I should have the Cabin 40, 41 to 44 I therefore took the luggage on board and told Yorke the circumstances, in reply I requested the Captain to give order to Chief Steward to let me have the Cabin in question, before the arrival of this decision with the Captain, I had had an interview with the Chief Steward, Lobb, before but his insolent manner and tone was so rude and uncivil that I had to speak to him in rather an angry manner, before which he “said if you will not listen to me I will not listen to you and then turned no his heels, returning to his own quarters, where I followed him to ask him whether before I brought my luggage on board or had it back to Dunedin by railway, he would say whether I was (this before seeing the Captain) I was or was not to be placed in possession of the Cabin agreed upon between the Company and myself, and to which he returned a distinct answer of “No.” We did not leave Port Chalmers till 5 and had to scramble for a seat at dinner, Grace too unwell and annoyed to go to dinner.
Letter inserted in diary
over my luggage on the wharf, and told him the result, and had my boxes put in the Hold and my cabin. I had not time to say good bye to either Cecil or Yorke as the vessel steamed away immediately my trunks were on board, but such a piece of chicanery deserves to be published over the land, it positively made me ill, to be kept in a severest state of excitement.
Then the seats were left for passengers at the Cuddy table, but each one had to rush his seat, and in some cases are their seats were, as we say if down on the diggings “jumped” and the Captain (disdain was purposely adjectly blind deaf and dumb?).
We left Dunedin on the 26th February having taken my passage in the “Tarawera” a week before, at the Union Steam Company’s office. I put down at the time the numbers of my Cabin 41 to 44, and of course had confirmed all through for a cabin to ourselves, but on going on board the Chief Steward (Lobb by name) only informed me that I could only have it that night and afterwards I should have to give it up to whomever they determined, you can imagine my indignation at having been so treated, I gave him a bit of my mind and told him that if I was not at once placed in (wooden?) I should take my luggage back to Dunedin by train (at the time Yorke was (busily, entirely?) over it on the wharf, the Chief Steward tried to provoke by his insolence, and nonchalant manner, telling me whilst I was better
Te Aroha, Auckland, New Zealand
End of letter
Thursday 27th February 1890
We reached Lyttleton at 8 am and after breakfast I took my Passenger Ticket to the Purser at his request, for the purpose of his endorsing it, and then handing it back to me, after he had read it, I asked him to return it, but he forcibly took it away with him, and would not let me have it again, or look at it again. I told him I thought that it was a great piece of audacity on his part, to act as he was doing, and that the a legal sense it was actually stealing my property. He then sent for the Captain, but he did not come and after waiting half an hour I walked to the office of the Company with Grace. I saw the Manager, and told him of my grievances, and in reply he said that the Purser had no right to withhold my ticket, but he would go on board, and see him and get him to return it, but I never heard from him since! Finding there was a train leaving at 11.20 for Christchurch Grace and I took a return ticket, not only for the purpose of seeing Christchurch but also to see if I could find out “Emerson Templer,” who with his wife and family lived somewhere about. I took a cab, drove to the Post Office, I saw the Chief Clerk, who was very polite and inquired of one of the letter carriers if any knew such a name. Fortunately he did, and he directed me up Mary Vale and a place called “Officer Lane.” I got to his house, Mrs Templer opened the door, did not recollect, till I told her we came from Australia, who we were, and the Templer himself and a fine young girl, his daughter (about 19) sat talking with us. The cab waited for us, drove us to a café to have a cup of tea and then to the railway by which we left at ¼ to 3, arriving at Port Lyttleton at 4, at which time the steamer was to leave, she did not, however, till 7, and before that time 45 more passengers, who had no cabins, came on board, on the chance of being provided for, there are upwards of 200 passengers, with only 2 Stewardesses to attend them.
They are obliged to have two breakfasts and two dinners at different hours and you have to scramble for your seats at Cuddy table, and hurry with eating your dinner, a most disagreeable proceeding, and most reprehensible on the part of the Company.
Christchurch is 9 miles away from Lyttleton, and we took half an hour each time in going and returning and the firs mile we went through a tunnel which they say is 1 ½ miles bored under a very high hill. Christchurch is the whole way to it, on the plain, beautifully grown shrubs all around and streams of water running through the town, particularly by a Church, near the Salvation Army Barracks. The wheat was being cut on the way, and the hay just mown and stacked. We did not leave Lyttleton till 8 o’clock and a tremendous rush of passengers took place which kept our stewards fully occupied. In the middle of the night I was awakened by a man coming into my cabin with a lantern, and on my asking him what he wanted he said he only came to see “all was right,” and led me to suppose he was a Steward. I told him he ought to have knocked before coming into our cabin, he said he did not like doing so, for fear of disturbing me which the fellow had done by coming in so suddenly and unexpectedly.
Friday 28th February 1890
Arrived in Wellington by 10 am. Had breakfast in our cabin. Grace could not get a seat at the table, no places kept for us, as is ordinarily done in most ships. Went on shore and called at the Office of the Company, saw a young man by name of Gilbert, who told me he would get my Passenger Ticket from the Purser and he would return it to me and I was to call at 2.30. In the mean time we walked about the town, and went to a confectioners where we lunched before when last here, and then to a fruiterers by the name of Poole, who came from “Lyndhurst” in the “New Forest” and knew Major Downman and lived in his direction. Returned to the vessel at 1o’clock, she, Grace, being very tired and complaining of pin in her side. At 2.30 I went by myself to the Company Office and paid £4 extra on account of going by the way of Auckland, got a receipt for same, and gave a cheque for £4 on Bank of New Zealand at Auckland. The ship did not leave the wharf till 10 o’clock at night, during which time the noise of the steam winch in loading was unbearable. A great number of fresh passengers came on board, amongst others, Bishop Grimes the Roman Catholic Bishop of Christchurch who is doing home, to whom I was introduced by Mrs Burton(?) who is returning to Auckland with her young sister Mrs Burton has only been married 8 months, a fine looking girl of only 18, stands 5 feet 10 inches and plays well, she too is a Roman Catholic, and an intelligent agreeable person. There is also a young girl, a Swiss named Miss Bacamo, who is much shocked at the noisy conduct of a Miss Ferguson, a good looking girl, but very familiar with the Stewards.
There is also an elderly lady and her daughter, a very tall and fine looking girl (whom Cecil knew). She, the mother, has another married daughter living at Double Bay, Sydney, and was complaining of the treatment she was receiving from the Union Steam Company in not getting her a proper cabin, and having to get in to her berth by aid of a ladder. Music and singing was the order of the day “in the Social Hall.”
Electric lights were put out at 10.15 and I had to go to bed in the dark.
Saturday 1st March 1890
Arrived at Hawkes Bay, Napier at 4 o’clock. We were obliged to anchor at once, but a steam launch came from shore to take passengers, if they wished, to and bring them back from Napier. Another Steamer (on her way to “Dunedin”) the “Manpouri” anchored near us. A few passengers left merely to satisfy their curiosity in looking at the town of “Napier” which is prettily situated, but some of the people who went said it is very hilly and the houses built on precipitous places. The Launch returned to the ship at 7.30. There is therefore not much time to view the place, and neither Grace nor I ventured in the launch.
I saw the aforesaid Miss Ferguson (as I was writing in the Saloon) very -- - and the Steward very familiar with her, which reminds me of what an objectionable Steward we have to attend to us, he is a vulgar -- married man, and looks more like a Pugilist than a Saloon Waiter on board a passenger ship. I had to speak to him yesterday, about something, and he was occupied the whole time I as talking at picking his teeth with a sort of toothpick, but evidently all the Stewards take their cue from the Chief Steward, of whom I have already spoken.
Whilst engaged writing up my diary a Colonel (Jemitz?) as he is called, Member for Ballarat, walked in to write, a loud swaggering man, more like an American than an Englishman, full of bluster and noise. Made the acquaintance of a Mr (Sluvant, Stewart?) a partner of Goldsborough, Mort & Co and he told me the first named (person, man?), gave Mort & Co £200,000 as the share in the partnership business and £1000 a year each to Henry Mort, Buchanan, -- and the old partners. Therefore a good reason for changing the original name of the firm of “Mort & Co” to “Goldsborough, Mort & Co”
The man named Colonel Smith has just sat down to play cards with the two prononcée Demoiselles, Miss Ferguson and her friend and an old man who is looked upon as her father. The game appears to me ‘Euckie.”
Left Napier at 10 o’clock at night, did not land.
Sunday 2nd March 1890
We came in sight of Gisborne at 6 o’clock in the morning and a Steam Launch took some passengers to Gisborne, amongst them Bishop Grimes and Mrs Barton and her sister, and the Bishop had service, then returned about 11. We had a very rough night of it, a great deal of pitching and tossing. We left again about 12 o’clock but finding it very rough, very few seating at lunch and afterwards we came to a standstill owing to something going awry with the machinery, the heating of the piston rods or something of the kind, but after some delay we started again, but after putting up a sail, and the weather looked gloomy, another rough night, the wind high and very cold. Stayed on deck a good while after lunch, talking to Mrs and Miss Emily Webster. Made the acquaintance of a very pretty intelligent girl, but who appeared to me to have a Cavalier on attendance. She lives in Auckland whither she is going on return from Wellington. There is a young man also on board, a Mr Marriot, who (studied, lived?) at Cambridge and before read so hard, as to affect his brain, and necessitated a voyage to New Zealand, he looking very queer and evidently gone in his head.
Monday 3rd February 1890
A very cold wind blowing all yesterday, with heavy sea and where the Ladies sat on deck was covered in outside with sails. The ship pitched very much last night. This morning, however, was very bright and we reached Auckland by 1 o’clock. It has a very pretty harbour and extensive, if not more so than Sydney, and much more picturesque, with the cultivated trees in the background, The weather was very warm, as oppressive as a Sydney summer day, at this period of the year. Had lunch on board and much annoyed at my proper seat being “jumped” by an ill mannered (utterly, elderly?) fellow, being the last day I put up with it, packed up all one’s (things?) lying about the cabin and settled up accounts with the Steward, paid 4/- for (whising?) and gave fee of 5/- for himself and 10/- to the Stewardess. Sent our boxes by a cart to the “Grand Hotel” for which I paid 5/-, then went in a cab to it about 1 mile from the wharf, for which I paid 3/- which was 1/- too much. Mr and Miss Webster preceded us and got a room for us at the Grand Hotel. Called on the way at Bank of New Zealand in Queen St, and found out from the Manager that £24.18.9 had been transferred from Dunedin to my credit here. Had lunch at the Hotel at 1 and walked down afterwards and called at the Union Steam Company’s office, told the Manger of how I had been treated on board the “Tarawera” and of the impertinence of the Chief Steward (Lobb) and that I had given a cheque of £4 for extra passage on a “Dunedin” cheque book, but that I was not sure, whether I had struck out the word “Dunedin” and substituted that of Auckland, where my account had been transferred.
Posted Grace’s letter to Cissy.
Tuesday 4th February 1890
Beautiful day and tolerably cool. Mrs and Miss Webster, our fellow passengers, left Auckand at 5 again by the “Tarawera” for Sydney. Numbers, I heard, went by her, and the New South Wales Cricketers.
At 3 I called at the Northern Club “North Auckland Club” where I made the acquaintance of a Sir George Grey, formerly Governor of New Zealand, and made arrangement to meet him at the “Free Library” to which he has given his private library, a magnificent one, and all his pictures. Some old and very valuable books and manuscripts, several books printed by Caxton, there was a written edition, the first, of “Patriarch” illuminated Missals, but the most interesting thing that struck me was Captain Cook’s journal in his own hand writing, and a reply from the Victualling Board, Somerset House, to him granting supplies for his ship, and the document was signed by the different members of the Board, amongst whom was the signature of my relative “George M Marsh” either a great uncle or cousin of my grandfather, who was originally Chairman of the Victualling Board.
I was interested too, in reading an old letter of a Captain Sturt and one from his wife, or rather widow, to Sir G Gray, who had been interesting himself in getting them a pension and getting his widow the title of “Lady.”
The Picture Gallery in which Sir George (Smith’s? Gray?) pictures were, comprised several by old Masters, one by (Wonermann?) one by Wilkie? The only Wilkie (and for which he -- -- a prize), in the colony, and by Sir Thomas Lawrence, a bronze (cast?) of Napoleon Bonaparte, one of few executed, and so much to see and interest me, as to require another day to inspect.
Wednesday 5th March 1890
Went after breakfast to the Bank of New Zealand and obtained permission of the Manager to send Grace’s jewels to the Bank; handed them over to the accountant who deposited them safely in the Strongroom. From thence went to “Cook & In” opposite in Queen St, and took two railway tickets for Grace and myself from thence to (Te Aroha?) which they (charged?) 1.1.6 for each. Went to the booksellers Wildman next door, and purchased books and a likeness of Sir George Gray (30/-). In the evening sorted our clothes, packing what we desired to take with us tomorrow, and what to leave behind. On my return from the town took a tram and was put down on Victoria St and walked to the Gran Hotel, but missed my way, passing by Government House, which is prettily situated, and in grounds well planted with trees, very like an English Country House.
Thursday 6th March 1890
Got up at 6 o’clock, had an early breakfast, sent for a carriage to take us to the railway, only 5 minutes drive for which were charged 3/- instead of 2/6. Paid my bill at the Hotel for which I was charged £4.2.6 for three days. Left behind several trunks which they promised to take charge of viz:-
1, my hatbox and hat, 1 Umbrella and hat bag, 1 Grace’s large basket trunk for dresses, 1 Mrs Storm’s Travelling Trunk with her name upon it (green). 1 my trunk with “M.P.M” on it, 1 Chair with Bag and Macintosh packed away at it.
Gave the Waiter 3/6 the charge for in in 2/6 the other one 2/- Boots 1/6.
Cook’s agent met us at the train (which left at 9.35) the agent came to see us comfortably off.
The railway has an early going on and we stayed 30 minutes for refreshments (??), on the way the country we passed through was flat with lofty hills in the distance, and the River Waikato, and Thames flowing at the base, we saw also the “flax growing” wild in several places. In the carriage with us an a widow, a Mrs Bennett, and some time after a Mrs and Mrs Wallace, she a pretty young woman rather with good figure like Sarah Taylor something, and when in time 20 miles from Te Aroha, Mrs Biddy Sutton, (nee Alice Macintosh) came in she lives near, at a place called “Eureka” and was were mutually surprised at our thus meeting. Te Aroho is 115 miles from Auckland and we reached our destination at 5 and were met at the train by the “Boots” of the Inn, and taken to “The Hot Springs Hotel” kept by a German named “Smith.” We found Mr and Mrs Leigh (née Palmer) and Mrs Lethbridge and her niece Miss Lethbridge , Mrs Lethbidge was a Miss Larson, whom I knew formerly. On the road we purchased some very nice strawberries, just picked for which only 9d for the box was charged.
On reaching the town (spa?) we inquired of the Landlady her terms which we thought moderate 35/- a week each and judging from the dinner, well provided. On the journey the whole country was darkened by smoke from Bush fires, rending it most unpleasant to inhale or breathe, and unpleasant to the eyes.
Friday 7th March 1890
Got up to breakfast at 8 o’clock and at 11 went to the Hot Spring Baths and had my first bath, No.2, for 15 minutes, only at a temperature of 99 to 100, and then Grace and I went to No.8 and each drank a tumble of that number which tasted something like Soda water or Eno’s (fruit?) salt, though not effervescing. Had lunch at 1 o’clock, but owing to the sudden departure of the Waiter the Landlady had to supply his place with the aid of the “Boots” but we seemed to get on just as comfortably as with him before. After lunch at 1 o’clock there was a sort of improvised game of “Whist” going on. Mr and Mrs Leigh, against a Mrs Fisher ( an invalid) and German named Herr Smith.
Thermometer outside bathroom was 70°.
Mr Lethbridge is in bed, and came for the benefit of his health, but he is no better than he was, and is in a very (disfomting? Despairing?) state about himself thinking he will not recover. In the evening he came out into he sitting room talking with me for several hours of many mutual acquaintances of bye gone days. He tells me Pigott, formerly of the 99th Regiment went in to the Church, on leaving the army in England, but ultimately shot himself.
Several of the Inmates at the Hotel went to a Concert in aid of the Parsonage, for the Rev Mr Evans. Mr and Mrs Leigh, Miss Lethbridge, Mrs Arnold and boy, she has, I hear, not long given up her crutches, but her boy persuaded her to go. They did not return till after 10, and on the whole were somewhat pleased with the first part of the entertainment. Miss Lethbridge told me they had a similar sort of entertainment at St. Mary’s near Penrith, NSW, at which Philip Addison and his brother performed and sang with much feeling, and were much thought of and praised by the audience.
Lethbridge told me that Charles Cowper (the (shew?)) was his brother-in-law, had marred his sister.
Saturday 8th March 1890
This morning was very cold and a fire was lighted in the Drawing Room round which several ladies sat, crowding over it but I kept at a distance. Commenced reading Tennyson’s last Poem “Demeter” which I purchased in Auckland. Much disappointed with it, nothing to recommend it, neither the ideas, or versification! Had my second Bath today, at 99°, heat and stayed in it 15 minutes and afterwards drank two glasses of the water (morning and afternoon).
Felt giddy in my head when first getting up this morning, a sort of faint feeling.
Sunday 9th March 1890
Grace went to the Church of England near with Miss Lethbridge in the morning but the Clergyman (Evans) was away, and some Layman read the Service and a sermon. I believe one was the Banker. At 11 took a glass of mineral water and again at 3 o’clock, going there with Grace who took one too. I did not take my Bath today as usual, being Sunday.
Made the acquaintance of some new Inmates, Captain, Mrs and Miss Hill (Captain formerly of H.M. 14th Regiment). The daughter a pretty looking girl, with nice feet and ankles, nice eyes, and abundance of hair. When seated in the afternoon Verandah much troubled with flies, Temperature very warm, looking like a thunder storm brewing but they say they never get thunder storms here except not in the winter. In the evening after tea, Mrs Sutton (Alice McIntosh) came here to stay the night, so as to accompany Mrs Leigh in train to Rotorua, she came with Mr and Mrs Hanmer (big number??) (the Hanmers of Flint) and they wished to call on the Hills. Grace wrote and posted letters to Wise and Gracie.
Monday 10th March 1890
Mr and Mrs Leigh (nee Palmer) accompanied by Mrs Biddy (Roddy?) Sutton left early this morning for train, the Leighs are going to Rotorua to try those Baths. On their departure we got their room at the Inn, which is larger and more comfortable then ours. Cool morning.
Graceand I went to No.3 Bath and each of us had a warm Bath, 101 degrees, I felt very tired afterwards, and the water I drank yesterday at No.8 had a strong purgative effect upon me early this morning and I did not have to take any today but Grace did.
Had a poor breakfast and a poor lunch. Miss Hill not very well today. Mrs Hill went last evening to the Wesleyan Church where her prayer book and umbrella, she said, were stolen to her great inconvenience.
By the Bath Thermometer in the sun temperature 70° outside. Felt giddy on awaking this morning. This evening played Whist, Captain Hill my partner, Mr Biss and Mr Lees against us, won in the long run 4/6.
Tuesday 11th March 1890
Very cold this morning and a thick fog till 11, when it cleared, and Grace and I went and took a glass of water each at the Fountain, and then had each a Bath at 102° temperature. The Thermometer outside Bath room 60°.
Te Aroha is a very dull place to stay at, just like any small bush township in New South Wales, no view and the buildings very rough. The mountain at the foot of which are the township and baths is called Te Aroha (The Love). It is 3000 feet high, and great variety of ferns growing about it. The Domain, as it is called, in which the Baths are situate, about 20 acres in extent, and the Board only took possession of the Springs in Nov 1884 and upwards of 30,000 persons visited, especially suitable for rheumatic ailments and skin diseases. They, the waters, closely resemble the European Springs, especially those of “Vichy” “Ems” and “Fachingen,” well suited too for affections (?) of the kidneys and dyspepsia. The drinking water No.8 which we take contains sodium and magnesium salts, and should be prescribed by a Doctor for those taking them. No.8 relaxes the bowels, No.15 has a tendency to confine them. Diet must be attended to. The balcony of the hotel (Hot Springs) has extensive views of the “Waikato River.” In the evening Whist was played of which Captain Hill and Mr Lees were partners and Mr Biss, Chief Post Master of Auckland, and Mrs Fisher were opposed to each other.
A Mr Hockey played and sand during the evening, he has a fine tenor voice, and plays agreeably, he is going away tomorrow. Had my 4th Bath.
Wednesday 12th March 1890
Felt cold in the morning, Thermometer 60 outside the Baths. Grace and I drank the water at 10, No.8, and then she had her Bath. At 12.30 Captain, Mrs and Miss Hill (Catherine) left in a buggy to overtake the train at Morrinsville, en route to Oxford from whence they take coach tomorrow to Rotorua, on their way home to Napier, (Rotorua) which they prefer to Te Aroha, so far as the township is concerned, which they say possesses a beautiful lake in front of the Inn there. Mr Hockey the musical man also left today and another young man came in his place and also a married man and his wife, just married only on Friday.
In the Sydney Mail of March 1st which he – today, saw the death of Abe Mckay of Wallenbeen (my old neighbour when I lived at Demmondrille) He was upwards of 77, and they have honoured him with a picture of his likeness in the paper, which is days gone by he could not have anticipated. At 3 o’clock had my 5th Bath. Felt unwell, effects of drinking the water.
Thursday 13th March 1890
Cold and cloudy day, a feeling of rain coming. Did not feel well in the morning, rheumatism in the hands and also stomach ache. At 3 o’clock had my sixth (6th) Bath; at 11 Grace had her Bath.
A Mr Welsh arrived at the hotel yesterday, they say he is a Clergyman in Nelson, New Zealand, but who more like a dissenting parson, that is by his manners and the cut of his clothes.
Mrs Thompson senior and daughter-in-law came here, Mrs Thompson came to the Inn, she rather a huge tall woman about 20 stone.
A Mrs O’Hara of German nationality also came, a vulgar low head woman. The rain commenced at 11 o’clock at night and lasted some hours, a regular downpour. Grace heard from Miss Howard from Dunedin, she going to Rotorua, and not coming to Te Aroha.
Friday 14th March 1890
Raining hard till 5am.Mr Lees left the Inn, also the Rev Mr and Mrs Wilson. Grace had her bath at 11 o’clock. I posted a letter for Dr Lewis inclosing, and another letter for Messrs Cook & Sons, Auckland.
Paid the Innkeeper for expenses including extras and washing £4.10.0 for the week for Grace and myself. I had my seventh Bath at 3 o’clock and took the waters No.8 (two tumblers) at 11, and 3 o’clock.
Thermometer in shade of Bathroom 68°. The sand flys very troublesome all day. English papers from Wise, letters from Cissy.
Saturday 15th March 1890
Beautiful and bright day, very cool atmosphere. Purchased another dozen of Bath tickets for which I paid 6/- or 6 a piece. Grace and I both had our Bath at 11 and drank each our waters at No.8, a sort of purgative.
A Mr Shirley Baker from Tonga arrived here at the Inn, the Premier of that Colony and looks like a – parson in oily expression.
Sunday 16th March 1890
Went to Church at 11 with Grace and Miss Lethbridge. The Clergyman was a stranger to the place, not the regular clergyman (Mr Evans). He reminded me something of the late Barnaby Smith, though taller. The girl who played the Harmonium was rather a pretty girl and knew it, the Post Man read the lessons, the day was a very fine one but something warm.
The Church is of wood, not very large, only capable of containing perhaps a hundred people. Mr Baker was at Church too, is looking after Prince George of Tonga and seeing after his education. He left him at Auckland on his way here. Tonga is about 500 miles away, and Mr Baker had great disputes with the natives who once retaliated upon him for his oppressive acts. Grace and I went to Evening Church, where two Clergymen officiated, the Incumbent Mr Evans preached on the murder of Abel by his brother Cain, his reply “I am not my brother’s keeper” in that extempore and well put together. The Clergyman who performed service the morning, Mr Kirkman, read prayers. The Church was as full as it could hold. Mr Evans walked home to the Inn with us. Mr Kirkman has been a Lay Reader, a -- -- .
Monday 17th March 1890
St Patrick’s Day in honor of which some races are to be held near the Township.
The morning was very cold and misty. Mr Biss, Chief Postmaster at Auckland, left for Auckland, also Mr Shirley Baker, who though Premier of Tonga, was once a Wesleyan Missionary there and looks the very prototype of the “howling dissenter” described by Drekins, he is now a rich layman and possessed of a million of money, I hear, and does not belong to the “cloth,” he attended Church of England service twice yesterday with Mrs Thompson junr., notwithstanding he can’t get rid of his peculiar “oily look of (noshor?)” He is “Premier” of Tonga and his wife and family reside there, some time ago, he had a quarrel with the natives, and they were going to shoot him, his eldest daughter, a girl of 18, threw herself between him and his assailants, and received the shots in her neck which has crippled her ever since, for life and she cannot turn her head in consequence. Grace had her bath and the waters. I at the same time had mine too. My ninth Bath (9th).
Tuesday 18th March 1890
Grace had her bath today at 11. I felt so weak and indisposed that I could not take mine. A very warm day, and felt tired and listless. The Lethbridges are packing up to leave tomorrow for Auckland en route to Sydney. Grace and I drank the waters twice today. Grace has a letter from Mrs Leigh (nee Palmer) from Rotorua, she mentions Mr and Mr Row being there and speaks of the roughness of the journey from Oxford to Rotorua, the dust etc, but of the superiority of the Baths themselves over those at Te Aroha.
Wednesday 19th March 1890
Cool morning, felt very unwell and weak on awakening.
Mr and Mrs and Miss Lethbridge with the Hospital Nurse, Dickson, left Te Aroha by rail at 7.30 for Auckland. The omnibus took them to the station, 5 minutes drive. At ½ past 10 Grace took her Bath and at 12 Grace and I drank our waters together. My Bath No.9 was occupied by some lady: who kept in it an unconscionable time and prevented me from taking it till the afternoon at 4 o’clock. Received letter from J.Cook & Sons, and Grace wrote to Miss Howard and Mrs Leigh, Rotorua.
Mrs Thompson and her daughter in town, Mrs Thompson went to Mrs Hanmer’s who lives near this. She drove in for them, she, Hanmer, some relation of Sir John Hanmer of Flintshire, North Wales.
Thursday 20th March 1890
Very cold morning, few people at breakfast, and those few were vulgar and unpresentable. The Irish woman O’Hara (a German by birth) a most obnoxious, hideous woman, that one always passes her by as one meets. I wrote to Mrs G Marsh-Caldwell. Grace wrote to Mrs (J Train?)
Had my Bath, the 10th time at same time Grace had hers.
Heard from Wise of 12th March date. Heard also from Miss Grevill, with photograph. Mrs Thompson Sen and Mrs Thompson Junr returned form the Hanmers.
Mr Shirley Baker returned at dinner time and Miss Graham also came. In the evening the above persons played a new game of cards, introduced by Mr S. Baker, called “Muggins” the great (service?) to get out of cards first, and if out, to become a “Muggins”. A severe gale blowing all night and North East wind, and yet very warm and oppressive.
Friday 21st March 1890
A strong North East wind blowing, and every prospect of raining. The Thompsons left for Auckland, and Mr Shirley Baker left also, but where to I do not know. Also Miss Graham for Auckland and Mrs Snodgrass, her friend. Some Races held about 1 ½ miles away on private ground, (a Butcher’s.) Wrote to Wise in answer to his letter. Grace writing to Miss Alleyne, England. Paid my Inn Bill 4.1.3 per person per week. After lunch at 1.30 went in an omnibus to the Races, about 1500 people present, one fourth of whom appeared to be Maoris, men and women, one of the Jockeys was a Maori, young fellow. The Paddock in which the Races were held not more than 50 or 60 acres in content, a wretched imitation of races, the horses wretched and the women equally so. The Maori women disgusting objects, and some few dressed out in inferior cotton velvet and gaily coloured shawls or scarves. Left this uninteresting place of amusements at 4, when it came on to rain and continued all night long. Very oppressive notwithstanding. Went to bed at 9.30, few people in Drawing Room, and the vulgar German Irishwoman O’Hara was there.
Saturday 22nd March 1890
Raining off and on all day. Obliged to get something at the Chemist to relieve the sting and bite of the sandflies on my hands and arms. Ammonia and Lavender water was the application. Grace felt unwell, and took her Bath at 10.30. Then we drank the waters together. I did not have my Bath today as I felt weak and determined to have a rest till Monday as hitherto the Baths appeared to have weakened me very much, and given headache.
Thermometer outside 68°. Very heavy rain in afternoon.
Sunday 23rd March 1890
Cloudy morning, my arm very much swollen and painful all night from the effects of the sandflies and my rubbing the bites, put ammonia upon it. In the morning we went to Church, the Rev Mr Evans performed the service and preached from the Text “They went up to the Formati,” administered the Sacrament. In the evening went to Church again, the little Church as full as it could hold. The Bank Manager of New Zealand Bank read the prayers, and preached, reading a sermon by the Rev Mr Robertson, formerly of Brighton. Grace wrote to Marie.
Monday 24th March 1890
A cold morning. In the middle of the night, in trying to light the candle on mantelpiece I overbalanced myself and fell from the bed to the floor, to Grace’s consternation and my confusion. Fortunately I was not hurt very much, only my knee stiffened and sore. Last night the “Long Readery(?)” who performed service and preached was a Mr Winstone, Manager of the Bank of New Zealand. The young girl who played the Harmonium was a Miss Wainwright, sister-in-law of the Chemist, Robson. One of the girls in the Choir, who it is said has £400 a year and therefore is much requisitioned amongst the men, her mother possesses £1000 a year, it is said, also connected with the Maoris. Found great benefit to my ‘Sandfly’ bites from the application of (above alum) rubbed over them.
I was surprised to see the Lay Reader, Mr Winstone decked out in surplice etc as though he had been a full blown Clergyman. The man who reads the lesson is the Post Master but he appears in his ordinary costume made evidently by some bush tailor who had no idea of a ‘fit,’ he put me in mind of “W Crane.”
Thermometer 66°. Made the acquaintance with -- --
Heard from Wise of 19th March as to (Jeddes?) -- -- (small letters at bottom of page)
Tuesday 25th March 1890
Very cold morning but fine. Frost on the plains early. 52° on Thermometer. Grace took her Bath and I took the waters with her. Wrote to Milly, Wise, Heron and Adams of Australian Joint Stock Bank, inclosing cheque of 20 and registering the letter to be placed to his credit. I heard from Adams that he had placed 20 more to my credit at Bank of New Zealand, Auckland. Grace heard from Miss Howard and Mrs Leigh from Rotorua giving description of Hotels, Baths etc. Mrs Leigh not very promising.
Wednesday 26th March 1890
Fine day, not so cold as yesterday. Thermometer 53° in the morning. Grace had her Bath, but would not drink the waters. I had my 11th Bath, and drank the water morning and afternoon. Posted letters for Lady Manning, Miss Howard and Cook & Sons, re Rotorua, expenses up to then etc. People playing tennis in afternoon in the Domain. A new lodger (a Dane) arrived at the Hotel this afternoon, come from Launceston and wears a gold (reparter?) of foreign manufacture, of which “he is proud.”
Thursday 27th March 1890
Posted a letter from Grace for Cecil, Dunedin
Henri Schmidt exhibiting his patent candle extinguisher this evening.
Beautiful morning, Thermometer at 8 o’clock 58. °
Sand flies very troublesome yesterday, especially whilst sitting on the benches under the Willow trees, sign of rain coming, they say.
Just three weeks at “Te Aroha,” since I came here. Grace and I drank the waters, but did not take the Baths. Called in the afternoon on Mrs Winstone, the wife of Manager of Bank of New Zealand, saw her. Lawn Tennis court fully occupied. Mr Lawler the C.P.S. and his wife playing as usual. This afternoon came another rheumatic lodger, looks like a school teacher, an Irishman. Met the Clergyman Evans, at the Baths, and had a long conversation with him, his is an intelligent, gentlemany young man, endowed with common sense, and with a knowledge of the World.
Friday 28th March 1890
Heavy cloudy windy morning. Thermometer 65°.
Early Mrs O’Hara, the German Irish woman left for Auckland. Quite a relief her absence will cause! There will be a cessation of chattering amongst the woman kind and one (innate?) less who eats “her peas with a knife.” She is I hear the wife of a small Innkeeper somewhere, and is the most obtrusive, vulgar fat and waddling creature extant, an unwomanly woman!
Raining off and on all day.
Posted letters for Cook & Sons, Manager of Bank of New Zealand, Grand Hotel, and Manager of Union Steam Company, Auckland. Heard this evening from Cook & Sons, as to “Rotorua.” The name of the Rheumatic patient who came last, is “Carey” a comedian from Auckland.
Saturday 29th March 1890
Raining and windy all night and early this morning Thermometer 65°. The Dyspeptic Dane ( who is of Brisbane) had sudden news of his “Jam Factory” at Auckland having been burnt down, compelling him instantly to return this morning to Auckland. In the middle of the day the weather cleared and in afternoon rain came down again heavily. Got caught in the storm whilst at the Baths. Grace took her Bath before lunch, and I afterwards, took my 12th Bath and drank the waters. Obliged to stay at the Fountain waiting for the rain to cease. To my surprise whilst there, Grace came up with my cloak, and was much exhausted coming up the ascent, got wet and had to change her dress. Mr Carey tells me he come from Morpeth on the Hunter River, and is some connexion with the Close’s and Campbells there, by marriage.
Sunday 30th March 1890
Thermometer 62°. Threatening of cold, took “aconite.”
Grace and I went to Church with little Arnold Fisher, morning and evening. Full congregation. And for the morning the Banker (Winstone) performed service reading a sermon of Kingsley’s. In the evening the Incumbent (Evans) performed service and preached, using no text but addressing the congregation on Church matters. Grace took her bath in the afternoon, and then took the waters, and I too. Great number walking about the Domain notwithstanding rain at intervals, the organist and her sister had to leave hurriedly on that account. Posted letters Dowling, Wise, and Milly. Beautiful moonlight night, coming from Church.
Monday 31st March 1890
Although it must have rained in the night by the look of the roads, the morning was fine and cold, Thermometer 59°. Mr Johnson, the representative of “Harper & Co, Auckland” left by train for Auckland. Had my 13th Bath, afternoon, and drank the waters twice. Grace had a Bath at 11.
Two strangers came from Auckland today, Mrs (blank) and her brother.
Saw Miss Wainwright, the Church organist in the Domain with her little nephew Robert.
Tuesday 1st April 1890
Grace had her Bath in the morning. Met the Incumbent (Evans) on the way, wished him good-bye. He to his Tennis Court. Mr and Mrs Leigh (née Velmar) returned about 10 o’clock from Rotorua, from the Bath of which she has derived much benefit, especially the “Priests,” she has been there three weeks, and stayed at Brent’s Boarding House. 2.2 per week each person. She does appear much better than she was when going.
Thermometer exactly 70°.
Purchased a stick from (Brastman?) made of “Nere Neri” wood tipped with “Vienres?” Price 5/-. Picked on the bank here, Te Aroha.
Had my 14th Bath after lunch, and drank the water. The sand flies were very disagreeable even in the Bathroom, I counted 8 sand flies upon me on getting out of the Bath.
Wednesday 2nd April 1890
Left Te Aroha by train at 20 to 7am, very full of passengers, for Auckland, and we arrived at 2.30 at he Grand Hotel, Auckand and on entering found Mrs Hardman, Miss Howard on the point of leaving by the Manapouri for Sydney at 5 this evening. With them several Theatricals amongst other Mr and Mrs Cater.
Had no sleep all night owing to Sand Fly bites. For the train which we came by this morning from Te Aroha, were Mrs Fisher (Fischer?) who goes to Auckland on business leaving little son Arnold at the Inn all by himself.
There was also the Clergyman’s wife (Evan’) and three children, also a Mrs O’Neil (wife of Solicitor, Hamilton) with her four children and Governess (Miss Paine (Prime?)). They got out at Hamilton, where they live. A great number of people staying at the Grand Hotel, a Mr and Mrs Rae Dixon from Sydney, who have been at the Sounds. They live at “Drumingine(?)” Parramatta River. Called on the manager of Union Steam Company’s office and spoke to him, as I had a week ago written, to see about getting a cabin on board the “Rotomahana” ship sailing on Wendesday the 9th – at 5. He told me there could be no difficultly as he had already put one names, Grace and I, down as passengers, and told me what I had heard before, that our old Captain “Wheeler” was in command of the steamer now, (nie Carey?).
The journey from Te Aroha here today was most tedious and tiring, no view along the road, nothing but Tea Tree scrub visible and neither(?) as eatable grass for their – cattle. We stopped for refreshments at Mercer but they waited so negligently and slowly that I had to leave without getting anything to eat or drink. In addition to this, the sand flies bites from which I suffered put me into a sort of fever the whole way, most painful and irritating. In the afternoon met Wilkins and his wife returning from Dunedin, this evening for Sydney by the Manapouri. Purchased a beautiful Muscat hot house grapes at 1/6 per lb.
Thursday 3rd April 1890
Awoke tired and head achy. Weather sultry and cloudy, portending rain. After lunch Grace and I walked into Town, called on the Bank of New Zealand and told them that I wished to take out Grace’s jewel box which I left with the accountant for safety. It was arranged to call for them on Monday. Purchased (English?) photograph and also some of the “Maoridom” which were very expensive. Severe attack of rheumatism in right shoulder, could not sleep for it. Called at Club, and got time extended.
Friday 4th April 1890 – Good Friday.
Grace and I went at 11 o’clock to St. Pauls Church near the Inn, a wooden structure, a small edifice built of wood. Not very crowded. Two persons officiated, the Rev Mr Nelson the Incumbent, who read his sermon, he wears a Cambridge hood, and a Dr (Gopen Aslum?) a Doctor or Surgeon, who read the Lessons, he wore a surplice of which in a custom in New Zealand that Lay Readers adopt. About 100 men of H.M.S. “Egeria” Surveying Ship ( a variety (standing?)) attended Church with their Lieutenant and a Middy, attended the Church a dirty lot of looking sailors. The service at Church very indifferent and slow.
Rain during the day.
Saturday 5th April 1890
Cold though the Thermometer 69°. Raining in the morning. Rheumatism in shoulder very severe at night. Could not sleep for the pain.
Felt very unwell and sleepy all day. Unable for much exertion, however managed to go with Grace to the Museum just opposite this Inn, not very much to look at, not equal to the Dunedin Museum. The most interesting subject were four authentic jars, Roman wine for Roman centurions, which in ancient times were called “amphora” two large and one holding four or five gallons and two smaller now in good preservation, good specimens of pottery of the time.
Saw the S.S. Waitiora” on leaving the harbour at 5 for Sydney, full complement of passengers I heard, to Sydney, I heard.
A great number of Lodgers at dinner table this evening. Toohey wife and family (the Brewers of Sydney) O’Neil, a member of the Union Steamship Company of Dunedin, the former, the Tooheys to return to Sydney on Wednesday.
Sunday 6th April 1890
Cloudy day, my rheumatism in shoulder still continuing, feeling very unwell beside, could not sleep during the night owing to the rheumatism, notwithstanding applied and rubbed in “Elliman’s Liniment” before going to bed.
Did not go to Church as intended, for fear of making my rheumatism worse.
There is another Doctor at the Inn, going to Sydney on Wednesday, a Doctor Marschant, he lives in Elizabeth Street in Sydney, a man of about 40, an Irishman by birth and by (tongue?), although when I first saw him I thought he was a Musician, possibly teacher of Music, from the style of his playing. Very intimate with a niece of Mrs Toohey’s, Miss (blank) whose wife a – Ampter are in England. It appears that a sort of Platonic affection existing between them, she laying her hands upon his neck and arms, and sometimes helping him to salt and other eatables from off her own plate.
Monday 7th April 1890
Cloudy windy day, Thermometer 68°. Holiday today, races held about 5 or 6 miles away. Felt somewhat better today and my rheumatism, but Grace suffering from pains in her legs.
Grace wrote to Cecil, Yorke, and Miss Nevill including photograph of self. Pouring rain at night.After lunch went out with Grace intending to go to Lake Takapuna via North Shore, took ticket, and reached North Shore, but to our surprise in about 12 or 15 minutes the steamer went straight back to the wharf we took tickets at, and were informed that we had gone on board the wrong steamer, and that the next one would not go till ¼ to 4, we therefore returned to Auckland and took a tram as far as the (Grand?) Library and up the hill and then to the gardens which surrounded the Fine Library, we walked (with?) it admiring the flower beds which still display a beautifully(?) rare shrubs which I had not seen before, particularly one called vulgarly ‘the Olive (ulver?) leaf,” a few drops of rain and fell and we returned Grand Hotel. Grace tired and complaining of pains in her side and leg.
Made the acquaintance today at table of Mansfield, the architect and formerly in partnership with (Sutton, Andrews?) and connected with the “Wigam Allens” great friend of Voss.
Tuesday 8th April 1890
Pouring rain early, continuing all day. The Steamer Rotomahana came in before breakfast, and I went down to the Union Steam Ship Company and saw the Manager, and on inquiring I found that a cabin had been allotted me, No 86 and 87. In coming out of the office to the carriage, the strong wind blow my hat off, into the street, which muddied and soaked (scratched?) my hat, that it had to be dried and brushed, being muddy and wet, and I feel almost sure of a cold in consequence. Umbrella was turned inside out. Left the Catalogue of Free Library at Wildman’s the stationer, he having lent it me on Friday. Made the acquaintance of a young Englishman who with his friend are going to Sydney for a short time, then to Queensland where he has a brother managing a Sugar Plantation. He is friend of De Ranbeck(?) formerly Private Secretary to Sir Hercules Robinson and they say he is travelling under the name of Ereleigh, though his right name is Lord something though he does not take the title.
Light pencil for remaining pages, not gone over in ink illegible on photo
Refer to diary
Wednesday 9th April 1890
Thursday 10th April 1890
Arrived at the wharf at Russell. Raining all day.
Pouring rain all day. Could not go on deck. Thermometer 76°
Friday 11th April 1890
Pouring rain all day, the ship rolling and pitching very much. We passed in the afternoon the -- Bay -- round Cape North and saw the
Saturday 12th April 1890
The sea -- -- and the all presented a very common, vulgar appearance. Up to today I find that we have gone from Auckland 400 miles, and have 800 miles yet go go.
Sunday 13th April 1890
Fine day, the first one we have had, but the ship rolling and pitching with -- -- wind very violent. In the cabin Thermometer at 11, was 81°. Whilst sitting in the Social Hall I was rolled on the ground while -- -- Miss Begold to the opposite side where Mr S – was lying -- - I was thrown down again with great violence on the deck and hit the side of my head -- almost stung me, and – and hurting my fingers, and also getting a severe blow on my left side and causing great pain for several hours.
Monday 14th April 1890
Went 260 miles toady and have yet to go 264 miles. Tolerably fine till after lunch when the sea became very rough and the wind almost gale, ship rolling and pitching as adversely as -- --
Did not get up till 4 my – chest giving me so much pain, actually agony. Dr – gave me a liniment to rub in - -- and looked like opium --- with it. Dr McAthur recommended a bandage – A great many of Ladies were absent from dinner table
Tuesday 15th April 1890
Severe gales during the night and one very severe one at daylight, difficult to keep myself standing on my legs and free from falling. Different very much from the intensity of pain on my side, could not move in bed, and could not walk to Cuddy without assistance of Steward. We got sight of land about breakfast time and reached Sussex St Wharf by 12. Wise, Milly and Neville Dowling came to see us, we were thinking of joining Wise at Manly, but found out he could not receive us and therefore Milly went and saw Mr Clements and took lodgings for a week being opposite the Club, a very convenient place, better than even Manly and away from the breeze.
Called to see Dr Atherton, he – bad with influenza and his wife also in bed, that being the case Milly recommended my seeing Dr North and he went to his house to ask him to call and see if I had broken my ribs. At 8 o’clock called and examined – and bandaged my ribs. He pronounced me as exempt from broken ribs but only the muscle had been –ted by the fall.
Called on the Club, and submitted the name of Sir William (Levigne?) of the Travellors Club, London on his friend Mr Sutton of the – Club as Honorary Member. Saw Abbott and – and D- Thomson – Mort and at he Club, he mentioned my desire of having the Rev Mr Bach of Dunedin admitted, who sails to England on Saturday by Cunard. Marie and Neville Dowling called to see us at Mrs Clements after dinner.
£20 in Bank of New Zealand
At present on 3rd April £18.14.7 to credit.
28th March Railway Tickets 2.3
1st April HN Springs
Mr Wildman (Bookseller) 1
Grand Hotel 9.5.9
Forward to Auckland ‘Bank of New Zealand’
Paid Union Steam Ship Company 4.0.0
Railway Cook & Sons 4.0.0
Grand Hotel 2.2.6
E Lewis Medical 1.1.0
Hot Springs Hotel 4.10.0
19 Maid Hot Springs Hotel 4.1.3
27th March Hot Springs Hotel 4.6.5
9.35 Railway – Hot Springs Hotel
Left in hall at Grand Hotel
Miss Marsh-Caldwell 1
Miss Alleyne 1
Lady Manning 1
Mrs Heron 1
Miss M Barton 1
Miss E. Rhodes – Melbourne paper
Mrs Duke Crofton
Transcribed from Judge John A.M. Marsh’s Journal 1889/90 trip from Sydney to New Zealand -
From Betty Harrison Family Archives, Sydney, by Michael Heath-Caldwell Brisbane 2009
Return to notes on John Augustus Milbourne Marsh 1819-1891
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